22,795 Garden Web Discussions | Roses


I think I agree with Jackie, Stan. This picture looks very much like one of TS's variations to me. I also think the striped one could be just another variation of TS caused by any number of variables in the weather. Or it could be a sport! I've had a few odd ball blooms show up this year on my roses. It was a crazy winter, many of the roses were severely damaged and had to be pruned to nothing, even the summer has been unusual, all of which could be causing these mutations to show up in blooms.

Thank you all for the input. Thanks so much Jackie and Seil. I am glad the rosebush still had the tag on it buried under the gravel mulch. Last year I don't remember her having blooms with the pronounced stripes but it has been a weird weather year. And it could be that one side of this old bush has actually form a Sport. Thanks again soooo much! :)

Rust and mildew are entirely different matters. Baby Love has extreme vertical resistance to some black spot strains. But once they mutate and figure out how to "pick the lock", it collapses and frequently dies. As long as it remains resistant, it's remarkable. That strong vertical resistance is what is hoped to be bred into further roses, combined with as great a horizontal resistance as possible.
Vertical resistance relies upon one gene for protection. Horizontal resistance depends upon multiple genes. Each type can provide protection against one, or numerous strains and both can be combined in a single seedling. Finding which are present in the parents; selecting the best parents to mate; then selecting the seedlings with the greatest combination of the resistance types are the issues. Hopefully, as money becomes available, invitro testing will become possible and affordable so these questions can be answered. Kim

You're welcome! Oh, yeah! Roses change DRAMATICALLY with climate and season. I've seen roses I've grown for years in other climates and asked what in the world they were. What's really embarrassing is when you've given someone a piece of a rose in a different climate and then ask them what that gorgeous rose they have is. "I got it from YOU!" OK. I'd wondered for a long time how they bred anything from Rosarium Uetersen. In my inland, valley heat, there are no sexual parts. The entire flower is usually packed completely full of petals and petaloids. The color is also a neon, poster paint coral pink. Then, I saw it along the coast...pastel coral with three or four rows of petals and an enormous center of lush, golden anthers full of pollen and a stigma crying out for the taking. I asked a friend what it was and she looked at me as if I had twenty heads. She bought the thing from ME at the nursery I managed back then, but I had never seen it grown in the cool, damp, only the hot and dry. That's why identifying roses from a photo taken in conditions you're unfamiliar with is so bloody difficult, unless the rose is so unusually distinct, nothing else could come close to looking like it. Enjoy! Kim

Kim is right, it's a red carpet. I have a few of them, but my dark pink carpet roses for some reason bloom much more than the red ones, their re-bloom speed is more like Knockout roses. I also have some very light pink (almost white) carpet roses, very pretty, but they don't repeat well in my garden.

I have had Jim Sproul's Eyeconic Pink Lemonade for 3 years now and I love it. It has great rebloom and is very healthy for me. It's also remarkably winter hardy. Which was in question early on because of the Rosa Persica in it's background.

I got Bulls Eye late last season and it never bloomed for me so I was a little surprised that it came back after that bad winter. It's planted in the ground now and putting on a lot of growth and has bloomed a couple of times. It's been healthy so far. Of the two I still like EPL the best because BE fades out to almost white really fast.


Thanks for the replies everyone. I have a tropical garden blog if anyone is interested (shameless plug):

Ah, Bayourose- you just made my day!! I have done a lot of mid-summer planting of roses in my zone, Heather, and sadly I only get winter survival on substantial sized pots anything after about June. I can plant Roses Unlimited gallons from their July sale without particular problems, but we don't get reliable snow cover and even with protection bands are simply not feasible for me this late in the year.
After last frost, however....now THAT I can order with a clear conscience!!
Off to blow my weekly budget...
Cynthia

Pictures would be a big help but there are a couple of possibilities that come immediately to mind. They could be Pink KOs that were mislabeled as red. But, it could just be a matter of the conditions they are growing in as well. Weather, soil and culture can all play a factor in bloom color.

I can't really say about the business-end of David Austin's business nor about any other company/business, but I can say that to me, Austin roses are NOT " those bloated and frilly monsters." They are still my favorite category of roses--though I like a lot of other kinds of roses also.
Kate

Susan I think death takes a few years. The ones in downtown Franklin that I was watching were going on 3 years before they finally dug them out because they got so ugly. The multiflora seem to hang on for a least that long as well.
I've linked a story that was circulating locally last year. It might help you with your neighbor.
Here is a link that might be useful: Mid Tn RRD story


"Although California has many different species of root-feeding nematodes, the most damaging ones to gardens are the root knot nematodes, Meloidogyne species. Root knot nematodes attack a wide range of plants, including many common vegetables, fruit trees, and ornamentals. They are difficult to control, and they can spread easily from garden to garden in soil on tools and boots or on infested plants. "
H. Kuska comment: I wonder how many people that think (or are being told in this forum) that they have "heat" problems with their roses actually have root knot nematode problems?
"Aboveground symptoms of a root knot nematode infestation include wilting during the hottest part of the day even with adequate soil moisture, loss of vigor, yellowing leaves, and other symptoms similar to a lack of water or nutrients. Infested vegetable plants grow more slowly than neighboring, healthy plants, beginning in early to midseason. Plants produce fewer and smaller leaves and fruits, and ones heavily infested early in the season can die. Damage is most serious in warm, irrigated, sandy soils."
See:
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7489.html
Here is a link that might be useful: link for above




Cool, Mordenman - your percentage of cane survival represents the range of hardiness of these climbers well enough to account for the variable climates where it grows, and I think it'll be helpful to newbies and others who are considering this rose. For me, if I can get at least that 40-60% of cane survival over the winter, the rose will both reliably bloom and expand nicely over a support in the summer. When I've had to prune even monster hardy climbers like Mme. Alfred Carriere or Madame Isaac Periere to the ground like last winter, I've gotten the growth back to normal levels by now but no blooms.
Thanks for the complement on the photo! I like having a mix of climbers on any given fence spot when possible, because of the variable extent to which any given climber is going to have substantial surviving cane enough to bloom, or decide to sulk for a summer. One way or another, I want SOMETHING to bloom each year.
One other comment to add to Michael's timely note about space requirements and climate is that climbers tend to need less "floor space" but more "elbow room" than other kinds of roses. In other words, to respond to Heather's questions about fitting them both in a given space, it depends on how much room they have to spread out on a fence. In the top photo, I have probably 10 or more climbers stretched out along 12' or so of the fence that you can see, so the bases of the climbers are pretty close to each other (some are on the other side of the fence, as the neighbors let me play on their side too). That only works because the branches of all the climbers can stretch horizontally along a large area of tall fence and overlap each other freely. You want climbers to grow horizontally as much as possible so that the blooming laterals can sprout up from the canes.
If you had a 6' section of fence, you could probably put climbers at both ends of the fence and stretch them toward each other and start zigzagging the canes up as they grow. If you only had 3' of fence horizontally, even if you had plenty of ground room to work with, that would likely only support one climber at best, and it would have to have very flexible canes to wind back and forth along most of that fence to get a full bloom. In that kind of space, Laguna would work better.
Hopefully that helps as you plan your climbers! As you can tell, I'm always in favor of cramming in more roses and other plants as much as possible, so take my advice with that caution in mind (smile).
Cynthia






I'm in Sri Lanka where the temperature can't ever go any lower than 26 C and no there're no animals in my yard because it's well fenced. The plant looks too young to prune but I'll give it a shot
You don't need to prune it just take off the chewed tips down to just above a leaf set. The plant will start to grow from the leaf set area.