22,152 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
The following was stated: "If they can prove the therory to be correct in which your articles speak then no doubt they will ban those types of sprays from the market someday... "
H.Kuska comment. It would be nice if we lived in a perfect world. The following statement appears in a very recent published, reviewed scientific paper. "This inconsistency between scientific fact and industrial claim may be attributed to huge economic interests, which have been found to falsify health risk assessments and delay health policy decisions [41]."
H.Kuska comment. Reference 41 is: "41. European Environment Agency. EEA Report. Copenhagen, Denmark: European Environment Agency; 2013. Late lessons from early warnings: science, precaution, innovation."
Regarding tebuconazole they state: "In fact, 8 formulations out of 9 were clearly on average several hundred times more toxic than their APs, ranging from 2-3 times more toxic for pirimicarb or prochloraz to 1056 times more toxic for tebuconazole. Results were similar for all cell types."
Here is a link that might be useful: link to recent scientific paper
Besides the insecticide being toxic stuff you don't need all those other products. If you don't have a specific insect infestation why spray for bugs? There are specific insecticides for specific bugs and you could be killing off some of the beneficial bugs that help control the pesky ones which could lead to a worse pest problem down the road. I presume you fertilize you plants regularly so why add that to your spray program too? Just use the proper thing for the specific problem you have at the moment and don't add stuff you don't need.
On most all roses as the wood ages it will get a darker bark like look to it. The older the cane the dark it will be. Those dark canes on yours are probably the oldest ones. As long as there is growth coming out of the cane at some point it's still alive and healthy. If growth further up starts to die off then there is a problem.
Paul's videos are wonderful so check them all out!
I've had Brothers Grimm for 4 or 5 years now. More or less immune to BS here and it has an ADR award for disease resistance. One of my favorites.
It opens more pure orange with yellow under petals and then fades to salmon and pink.
Among the roses you listed, I have Abe Darby (4 years) and Harlow Carr (2 years). I am in Northern Jersey so our climates should be similar enough. Both get some blackspot, but nothing terrible. I don't spray. However, Harlow Carr is a compact rose (in Austin lingo, "mannerly" grower). Abe is far bigger, sprawling shrub. You should be aware of the differences in size/growth. I am not familiar with the two other roses you mentioned.
Local nurseries don't stock many Austins here either. A few of them here do offer potted Austins at $50 or so a pop. You might want to order potted roses directly from DA in Texas or get bands.
Harlow Carr and The Mayflower have wonderful, strong fragrance. Mary Rose is not as fragrant.
The Mayflower has an upright growth habit. Mine is about 4 1/2 feet tall, I'm in zone 5.
Harlow Carr is fairly new to my garden, but I think it won't grow as tall as The Mayflower.
If the rose bloomed repeatedly in a previous season, it must have been a grafted rose that died back (probably from cold) to below the graft, leaving only the rootstock alive. The rootstock then made shoots and leaves. These did not bloom because roses of this type only bloom in June on canes that survived the previous winter. If any canes survived the past winter, it will bloom next month, but not like your original rose. The original rose is lost forever,
If you replace the rose, be sure to plant the new one with the graft well below the soil surface. This might get it through the winter.
That is freaky. I have bad borers, but they bore into harder canes, when they are more like wood. Mine go bonkers and bore for feet :(
Spinosad may be worth a shot, but I don't know what kind of borer that is. Definitely cut out and dispose of any canes like that, and I'd try several rounds of spinosad (just a guess at what might help, keep in mind). Make sure to spray it late in the day when the bees are in for the night, though. It's toxic to them until it dries.
I hope someone can ID what exactly is going on, though!
The single stem, "high center" roses you saw at the florist are hybrid teas, although I think there are high centered floribundas too. I am novice who grows very few hybrid teas. Assuming that hardiness is not an issue, here are one red, one peach/apricot HTs get limited blackspot in my Northeast NJ garden.
Red
Firefighter (Mine died back to the ground this winter, and is slow to come back.)
Peach/Apricot
Valencia (Mine was in a pot and overwintered in my garage)
Both are borderline here in zone 6b in terms of hardiness. Zone 5 might be a bit challenge for HTs, but it seems that quite a few people on this forum grow HTs successfully in colder climate than mine.
Good luck.
Thank you ALL so much, especially "seil"!