22,153 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
On most all roses as the wood ages it will get a darker bark like look to it. The older the cane the dark it will be. Those dark canes on yours are probably the oldest ones. As long as there is growth coming out of the cane at some point it's still alive and healthy. If growth further up starts to die off then there is a problem.
Paul's videos are wonderful so check them all out!
I've had Brothers Grimm for 4 or 5 years now. More or less immune to BS here and it has an ADR award for disease resistance. One of my favorites.
It opens more pure orange with yellow under petals and then fades to salmon and pink.
Among the roses you listed, I have Abe Darby (4 years) and Harlow Carr (2 years). I am in Northern Jersey so our climates should be similar enough. Both get some blackspot, but nothing terrible. I don't spray. However, Harlow Carr is a compact rose (in Austin lingo, "mannerly" grower). Abe is far bigger, sprawling shrub. You should be aware of the differences in size/growth. I am not familiar with the two other roses you mentioned.
Local nurseries don't stock many Austins here either. A few of them here do offer potted Austins at $50 or so a pop. You might want to order potted roses directly from DA in Texas or get bands.
Harlow Carr and The Mayflower have wonderful, strong fragrance. Mary Rose is not as fragrant.
The Mayflower has an upright growth habit. Mine is about 4 1/2 feet tall, I'm in zone 5.
Harlow Carr is fairly new to my garden, but I think it won't grow as tall as The Mayflower.
If the rose bloomed repeatedly in a previous season, it must have been a grafted rose that died back (probably from cold) to below the graft, leaving only the rootstock alive. The rootstock then made shoots and leaves. These did not bloom because roses of this type only bloom in June on canes that survived the previous winter. If any canes survived the past winter, it will bloom next month, but not like your original rose. The original rose is lost forever,
If you replace the rose, be sure to plant the new one with the graft well below the soil surface. This might get it through the winter.
That is freaky. I have bad borers, but they bore into harder canes, when they are more like wood. Mine go bonkers and bore for feet :(
Spinosad may be worth a shot, but I don't know what kind of borer that is. Definitely cut out and dispose of any canes like that, and I'd try several rounds of spinosad (just a guess at what might help, keep in mind). Make sure to spray it late in the day when the bees are in for the night, though. It's toxic to them until it dries.
I hope someone can ID what exactly is going on, though!
Thanks Seil, I tried to mound the soil up around it and just watering it in partially washed the mounded soil away from it already. [g] OK, 2-4 inches deep. It's raining right now and will be through most of Saturday, so Sunday or Monday will work.
Honestly, if I dig a 2 ft by 2ft hole my problem is usually planting the rose too deep. The risk is that it will die back to the ground in winter. I just moved 39 roses and I just watered them every day for two weeks. They stopped growing for about a week, but now they seem fine. If it were me I'd just replant it deeper now rather than risk it. I don't think the shock would be that bad.
Thanks, Seil, but the one cane isn't looking that good. I think the pith is dry. :(
I'd have left the dead leaves on the plant if I'd known they would shade the canes. I feel like an even bigger idiot.
File this under "My Most Stupid Gardening Mistakes."
I think I'll dig the poor thing up and get another rose. And treat it well.
Sylvia
Do not feel like an idiot! We have all done stuff like that! Chalk it up to experience. I , also don't think you have lost that rose. Just prune back the tops to good wood and give it good, semi-shaded, location. Dappled! And don't worry so much. I will bet it will come back. Keeping the good thoughts for you! Maybe turn a lawn chair over and use that as a screen from the hot sun!
I think the advice is spot-on, so I don't have anything to add there. However, I'm also in NJ, and I wanted to share in your excitement about the impending first-flush -- I'm also seeing buds everywhere! There's going to be something spectacular going on in the next week.
:-)
~Christopher
Besides the insecticide being toxic stuff you don't need all those other products. If you don't have a specific insect infestation why spray for bugs? There are specific insecticides for specific bugs and you could be killing off some of the beneficial bugs that help control the pesky ones which could lead to a worse pest problem down the road. I presume you fertilize you plants regularly so why add that to your spray program too? Just use the proper thing for the specific problem you have at the moment and don't add stuff you don't need.
Daconil will work as a preventative, but it won't save leaves already infected.