22,796 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
Several of the Austins might work for pillaring since they do like to get tall and leggy here anyway. You'd have to see which ones are more flexible. I have Golden Celebration and Graham Thomas and of those two Golden Celebration might work but Graham wouldn't. He's very stiff caned. The best advice you can get on how to do it is Paul Zimmerman's video.
Here is a link that might be useful: Paul Zimmerman's pillaring instructions
I am going to second the Paul Zimmerman videos on YouTube. He shows you how to pillar a rose and how to care for climbing roses. I planted climber this year and have 3 going up the poles of my arbor. The videos are very informative and once you get the idea it's not so scary lol. I planted climbing pinkies to pillar and they have very lax canes that are easy to handle. I am also growing golden celebration as a climber and if you catch the canes early it would be easy to wrap around a pillar. Also look into Peggy Martin, she has very lax canes and is super easy to grow. Good luck and have fun!
About training New Dawn: I have given up trying as the canes are stiff and the thing is a thorny monster. As soon as I ties one cane down, another one shoots right up. But I am a newbie (and a untidy gardener), and for the record, I did see Awakening beautifully trained. I doubt I would ever acquire that skill (or have the needed desire/courage). I don't get too close to ND these days, and have given up dead heading it.
I'm not a bug expert, but I'm not a rose newbie and I am sure those spots are not fungus, but made by some kind of insect sucking sap of new growth or munching away at the leaves in odd ways. There are loads of them, not just aphids and larvae, there's a group of insects called heteroptera that cause exactly the type of damage your roses have in these pictures. They suck or eat on the tender new growth, and as the leaves continue to grow the damage show up as spots, deformed, curled up leaves, tiny holes, etc. You can't really prevent it, but you can spray some kind of insecticide if there are lots of this. Heteroptera insects aren't as easily detected as aphids and larvae, because they don't stay on the leaves and on the plant that much. When they are finished eating, they will wander off to a near by plant, perhaps come back later in the day, or next day. The make noticeable damage to new growth even if they dont come in huge numbers like aphids and larvae. You might have a few of them and they make their presence know if the decide to stick around.
Hello rosefan.
I've gardened off and on all my life, but the rose bug just bit me again and I think my case is terminal.
I second the motions on Paul Zimmerman and the HelpMeFind site. That site is amazing.
Once I reabsorbed a book on Classic Roses I bought back in the 80's, I mined Amazon deep for .01 used books and pick a quartet. Also got a couple from a used bookstore. So winter reading is set.
My rose foray thus far, has been a couple of rustling expeditions even though it's a bit late in the season. I'm using my veggie grow-shelf lights to see if I can get some cutting to take root of some wilds I found and my neighbor's Rugosa (probably a hybrid). I love to propogate, but roses always eluded me in the past.
Good Luck!
Sounds like you're off to a great start!
Jjjessee, that sounds very grand. I'm going to take slips from an old aunts house tomorrow morning, see if anything works, but not holding my breath!
Seil, you have a point but the rose has been in the ground about 4 months now and has only just bloomed so I only just realised that it was wrong, proof of purchase is long gone...sigh. However, it does mean I might have to get my five year old a zeffie...so I'm not going to let it get me too down...
Husband threatening to hide the David Austin catalogue now!! ;-)
A HelpMeFind link for Charles Albanel
Here is a link that might be useful: Charles Albanel
In my humble opinion as a gardener, I believe that you are asking too much of the roses. The first photo clearly reveals an initial planting designed to be evergreen with minimal care, and once established to require minimal water. That is not the environment roses prefer (even KnockOuts) - they do best with regular water and little root competition. The boxwood roots are champion competitors.
I would look for a more appropriate site for the roses or just remove them entirely.
And I would instead install something of the "hardscape" persuasion in that spot. It would be excellent for some folly - a tasteful sculpture, piece of outdoor art, bird houses, etc.
If this isn't within your budget or to your liking, then I recommend looking for plants that have survival requirements similar to box. This would mean that in terms of the desire for another colorful plant that colorful foliage be considered. A variegated plant, for example, that would do well there is almost certain to exist. Or one with burgundy leaves as the post above suggests.
Good luck.
I wintered my 36 Knock out rose trees and 12+JP rose trees (baby blanket, raspberry blanket) in the garage before. For 7-8 years I had no problems with knock out rose trees (without any covers), the rose trees from JP, were all slowly gone with the wind, they couldn't take the winter cold here. I watered them once a month during the winter. Then last winter I stored all my motorcycles/scooters in the garage, put rose trees in the shed, they were all dead this spring. Last winter was too cold. So I started over with 23 Knock out rose trees in pots this Spring. I will winter them in the garage for sure. If you love Knock out rose trees, wait for Breck's big sale next year, for $50, you can get two rose trees for sure. :-)
Or buy Northern Encore aka Polar Joy as a standard and not worry. It is cold hardy to below -27 C, blooms all summer (pretty, pink singles), and is scented to boot (where did that expression come from? Stinky ones?). It grows own root, which means there is no bud union to protect. I've been growing it for 12 years, and it even survived last winter protection or any damage!
Steve
Here is a link that might be useful: Help Me Find
GunnersWife -- Head over to Home Depot. Out in the nursery area, you'll find big bags of mulch. They sell "Western Bark" pretty cheaply.
Put it on the ground around your roses, 3-4-inch-deep mulch is going to help their roots stay cool and healthy. Anything in pots should also be mulched -- tho we like to use a more finely-chopped mulch than that in the ground.
Hey Susan,
ItâÂÂs been a terrible year for fungal issues here. Canker this spring was worse than I can ever remember, and IâÂÂm still seeing some delayed cane death from it. Blackspot seems much worse than the last few years, too. I do spray about once a month when fungal issues are at their peak, and thatâÂÂs normally enough to keep mine fairly healthyâ¦but not this year. IâÂÂm not willing to spray more frequently, so things are just looking bad right now. With the weather up and down so much, we havenâÂÂt had consistently high enough night temps to kill off the blackspot yet. As far as pruning, I usually just deadhead hard this time of yearâ¦taking 6 to 8 inches off when I remove old blooms (10 to 12 inches on monster bushes). I did cut a couple of roses way back about a month ago and removed a lot of diseased canes. Those roses were really struggling from all the fungal issues running rampant here, but have come back strong from their pruning and thinning. They were mature bushes, though, so not sure how young ones would react to severe pruning this time of year. Hoping yours will bounce back beautifully! Try not to judge them too harshly based on this yearâÂÂs performance since disease pressure seems abnormally high. HTs grown no spray here are going to have some blackspot, but some will do much better than others. With time, you will know which ones can perform at an acceptable level for you.
Thanks again you all for the wise and gentle advice. I ended up pruning only dead wood and crossing canes. Gemini has not produced a bloom yet. Neither has Velvet Fragrance. Dolly Parton has put out two. Beverly has put out two.
In contrast, Pat Austin is a blooming MACHINE! I love this rose. And Charlotte, Grace and Tamora are not too far behind herâ¦.but far and above, Pat Austin is just a beautiful bush with beautiful flowers.
Susan
Thanks for the detailed response.
I've removed the rocks from the pot and relocated it. Now it should be in the shade most of the day.
Ill water it as you've suggested.
Also, considering the fact that it is August already and that the diagnosis was that the rose suffers from the heat, I hope that the coming autom-weather will help.
Again, many thanks.
You're welcome. Don't get me wrong, it does need sunlight to produce chlorophyll, it just will benefit from the bright morning sun without being fried by the hot afternoon sun and the heat coming off any hot walls cooking it. I'm glad you got the rocks out of there. That should help. If the soil is old, you might also consider carefully lifting it from the pot, putting in some new soil beneath the root ball, filling in around the sides and over the top to freshen things up a bit. Potting soil can quickly break down in high heat, damaging drainage and water holding capacities as it does. I'll leave that call to you as you know how old the soil is and how well it drains. Good luck! I think all of us suffering through severe summers are looking forward to autumn! Kim
Hmm.. I'll have to check fragrance next time it blooms. I'm bad about that. I grow roses more for looks than smell, so I don't always check. I don't believe J&P is doing the test roses anymore. This past season was the first time they didn't offer them. One of my favortie test roses was HYPNOTIZED. OMG that one is gorgeous! And a good bloomer.
Thanks ,Beth. I'll have to look for that one, also. Hypnotized sounds good!