21,400 Garden Web Discussions | Roses

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roseseek

"Sticky notes" are placed by moderators to pass on whatever information they wish provided. They remain there until thought to no longer be necessary. It all depends upon how important they feel it is to be there. Once it's served its intended purpose, someone will likely remove it. I just ignore them once I've read them. Kim

    Bookmark   January 11, 2014 at 4:01PM
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ingrid_vc so. CA zone 9

Very lovely roses, AviaStar, and what a great start for a beginner. I look forward to seeing what roses you'll be buying in the future.

Ingrid

    Bookmark   January 10, 2014 at 1:45PM
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aviastar 7A Virginia

Thank you, ingrid! I'll be seeking the wisdom of the group again when I have narrowed down my list a little!

    Bookmark   January 11, 2014 at 12:46PM
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floridarosez9

When I used to mulch, I put the manure on top of the mulch and then another layer of mulch. Now I get manure that is about 50 percent wood shavings, and I use that as my mulch. I'm happy with the way it looks straight from the stalls.

    Bookmark   January 10, 2014 at 4:29PM
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ingrid_vc so. CA zone 9

bebba, that's one of the reasons I don't use bark mulch any more. Whatever I have left is under the leaves that I use now. The idea is for the roses and companion plants to be close enough to each other that you don't really notice what's underneath. When there are blooms the eye naturally gravitates upward anyway. The leaves and other things, like rose clippings when I prune which I also leave under the roses, except for the thick branches, all take on the same grayish-beige tones which just sort of blend in. I don't like a "manicured" look to my garden beds so it all works quite well.

Ingrid

    Bookmark   January 11, 2014 at 12:31PM
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buford(7 NE GA)

It depends on the type of rose. A band of an HT is going to be good in 2-3 years. An OGR or Tea will take longer.

If you can, I would move the roses now while they are dormant. As long as your ground isn't frozen, you can replant them. If you wait until they start coming out of dormancy, they might lag a bit more for the first flush. Also, you will want to trim them back to about the size of the root ball so they will thrive in their new spot. Since these roses already have a large root system, I usually just make the hole big enough to fit the existing root ball.

    Bookmark   January 11, 2014 at 8:36AM
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mad_gallica(zone 5 - eastern New York)

I'd wait until March, possibly April. You do want to wait until chances of the ground being frozen more than a couple of inches are gone. Newly transplanted plants and frozen ground around their roots are not a good combination. It will also give you a chance to see how much winterkill is happening, and possibly readjust your expectations accordingly.

Bands of hardy roses usually mature in about 3 to 5 years. These are the ones that seem to be making progress. Roses that aren't hardy enough will never mature from a band.

    Bookmark   January 11, 2014 at 12:07PM
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seil zone 6b MI

Mine is next to Home Run and they're very bright together but I like the purple idea too.

    Bookmark   January 9, 2014 at 3:54PM
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grambu

hi Karen, interesting that your posting should come up now. I live in a condo and on my porch I have 3 pots next to each other. The first one is Julia, next to that is the climber , dublin Bay, on the other side of that is
Honey Perfume. I hope as they continue to grow against a white porch railing that the red dublin bay will grow along the top to the railing and the 2 yellow roses on either side will look good against the red climber. good luck, Judith

    Bookmark   January 10, 2014 at 1:39AM
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NOACCEPTANCE772(8a)

Yep, that definitely is a spider mite problem.
When I moved into my new place, I kept my Miniature rose home cause I was way too busy with unpacking, settling and all and within that time span, Spider mites ravaged my plant. When I put it outside, under the rain, it came back :)
Thou, spraying the plant with water regularly (sometimes, daily) will help keep the mites off. I grew a Patio rose in my home and got it to bloom, all the while avoiding spider mite infestations by misting the plant with water.

    Bookmark   January 9, 2014 at 10:22PM
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susan4952(5)

Spider mites. They make me crazy. To break the reproductive cycle, stiff stream of water as suggested above and try to get the underside of leaves as well. See if you can see very subtle webbing along the leaf underside. Sometimes I use a miticide....but I try not to.

    Bookmark   January 9, 2014 at 10:42PM
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pembroke(6--Louisville KY)

andreak: The one I have is 7 inches from the bottom of green base to the tip of probe. Works great for me. Pembroke

    Bookmark   January 9, 2014 at 3:54PM
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andreark

Thanks Pembroke...

I had to make sure it would work. With California's lack
of water, I don't want to over water.

andrea

    Bookmark   January 9, 2014 at 7:40PM
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seil zone 6b MI

Great idea, Kippy!

    Bookmark   January 9, 2014 at 3:52PM
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seil zone 6b MI

Patience is the key to all gardening really, not just roses. When you plant something it's an investment in the future and you can't expect instant gratification. I'm like Kate and the others here. A rose gets a good 3 years to strut it's stuff. Sometimes that goes even long in the case of climbers or a special rose I really had high hopes for. I kept a Cl. Peace 6 years when it NEVER gave me a bloom because I was so hoping it would be gorgeous. My brother finally helped me dig out the 8 ft. flowerless thing one fall. I've had Candy Land in it's place for 3 years now and while it blooms like mad it's still only 2 ft tall, lol! You can't win!

    Bookmark   January 9, 2014 at 12:01PM
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kittymoonbeam

Candy Land is a beauty. You made a good choice and I hope some tall canes are going to come on for 2014. I always feel happy when I see Candy Land in bloom.

    Bookmark   January 9, 2014 at 1:11PM
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shopshops

I know I'm out if your growing climate here in North Texas. But I just had to comment on this rose . It's my favorite. She gets to 5x5 here and wafts a raspberry scent in the morning air.

    Bookmark   January 9, 2014 at 12:51PM
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lainey2(7a)

Thanks, michaelg and shopshops.

    Bookmark   January 9, 2014 at 1:06PM
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KarenPA_6b

This is the decription on Michigan Bulb under Product Details:

Botanical Name: Rosa x 'St. Patrick' (cv. WEKamanda) Pat.#9,591

    Bookmark   January 9, 2014 at 8:23AM
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seil zone 6b MI

I'm glad to hear that you were pleased with your order, Kousa. Michigan Bulb hasn't always had the best reputation. They do have an interesting plant list though!

    Bookmark   January 9, 2014 at 12:03PM
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dublinbay z6 (KS)

I'll be interested to see how your experiment turns out. I don't really know anything about growing DA roses in the tropics, but based on my experiences in the summer heat of the Midwestern USA, I would think that all your rain and humidity (plus limited sunlight) means that you will have major blackspot problems and have to spray a good fungicide a lot to try to keep ahead of those problems. Most of the rose-growers I know are trying to find ways to cut back on or even eliminate their use of fungicides--which may not be good for you or your environment.

I hope you selected DA roses that are listed as "very" or "exceptionally" healthy. Even they will have BS problems, I'd guess, in a very wet environment, but they are still better than the DA roses that are disease magnets.

I hate to discourage you--and I hope you report back next year that I was completely wrong--but I know how much trouble BS is in my drier, sunshiny region, so I can't help but think those may be major problems for you.

Good luck, and let us know how your experiment progresses.

Kate

    Bookmark   January 9, 2014 at 7:52AM
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OhnHome(11)

Hello Kate, don't worry. You're not discouraging me :) I have been hearing the same from many different people and also have been reading a lot. I'm just very curious how the DA's will react to this weather and hopefully they will grow into healthy large plants. So far I've tried to focus on good air circulation to prevent BS and I have used Bayer Advanced Control but I'm looking for an organic alternative.

I will post some pictures about my DA project after a couple of months. I noticed that there are hardly any postings about DA roses in the Tropics. I'm located at I'm at latitudes 1ð and 6ðN, and longitudes 54ð and 58ðW and only 2 to 5 degrees north of the equator which is very very tropical. Basically similar to Malaysia but less high elevations.

BTW I'd accidentally posted this thread in the General Rose Forum after I discovered the Antique Rose Forum for DA roses. I have posted the same thread in the Antique Forum. If anyone would like to share their experiences or have some great tips please go to http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/rosesant/msg0122043413265.html?2

Thanks again Kate.

    Bookmark   January 9, 2014 at 8:52AM
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hoovb zone 9 sunset 23

Looks a lot like 'Francois Rabelais'.

    Bookmark   January 8, 2014 at 8:01PM
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kstrong(10 So Cal)

Yep -- I would also recommend Francois Rabelais and also Amadeus (Kordes, 2003) -- which is similar to FR, but a larger plant that blooms in bigger sprays. Both would be available in the U.S. Both of them are healthy bloom machines.

Here is a link that might be useful: Francois Rabelais on HMF

    Bookmark   January 9, 2014 at 1:19AM
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iris_gal(z9 CA)

Nanadoll is right. Those heights listed were in cold winter zones where roses freeze each winter. For Calif. I would add 1-2 feet.

Another factor is how hard you prune. A friend takes her roses down to 8-10 inches!!! I don't. Eglantyne here is pruned yearly to about 2 ft. and when blooms are cut the stems are longer than needed, to shape the bush (a little off season prune). I've also read that rootstock affects growth. Of course water, soil & fertilizer.

I think the important thing about Austins for a new grower is to know the ones on that list are the Austins of a more manageable size on a small city lot. The 10 x 10ft. monsters are wonderful. You just have to have fewer of them unless you've got space. Or you have to be severe in pruning, which may lessen bloom. My 'Evelyn' & 'Abraham Darby' will rapidly grow a cane that is 8 ft. long. It's often referred to as "octopus" canes. So far 'Eglantyne' and Symphony have never done that. Nor 'Heritage' (which grows taller than those).

Keep looking for bush pictures and you will see the difference in the smaller Austins on that list and the truly big ones.

    Bookmark   January 8, 2014 at 11:28PM
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andreark

Thanks for your answer Iris. I have heard, and listened to, similar comments from both Austin and HT growers.

I have two in ground beds and a number of large pots. The in ground beds are 19 and 7 months old. Michael, said that I really shouldn't prune these roses until they are in their second year. So later this month will be the first time I do any pruning at all. I have taken extra when deadheading but that's about it. (My beautiful Pristine wants to be 7 or 8 feet tall.) I have also been told that HTs in Calif don't really need to have more than 1/3 taken off along with any dead canes. And I understand that DAs don't really need anything but the lightest trim.....Unless of course they are growing long tentacles.

My DAs are in large (24 gal) pots and are only 5 months old now. So they haven't had the time to grow very large yet.

This will be quite a learning experience. I love it already!

Thanks again for listening and responding.

Happy new year,

andrea

    Bookmark   January 9, 2014 at 12:08AM
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hoovb zone 9 sunset 23

I'm sorry I got rid of that one. But, mistakes happen. We do the best we can...

    Bookmark   January 8, 2014 at 2:47PM
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iris_gal(z9 CA)

I'm kicking myself over 'Bronze Masterpiece' and 'Eureka'.

    Bookmark   January 8, 2014 at 11:30PM
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