21,400 Garden Web Discussions | Roses

Ingrid, perhaps some of the following may help with getting your roses to last longer in the vase? :-
"Collect the blooms early in the morning or in the evening and plunge them deep in water for several hours. The water and the container must be fresh and clean, at air temperature rather than cold. Commercial additives are generally worth using, but the traditional aids of copper coins, aspirin, charcoal and sugar in the water all help to keep the blooms fresh.
As you place each stem into the arrangement, re-cut the stem under water in order to rid the stem of air pockets in the sap-stream. Splitting or scraping the stem allows more water to be taken up. Display your arrangement in a cool, draught-free position if possible, as the warmth of fires and appliances will dry out the flowers. An occasional fine spray of water through an atomising sprayer will keep them looking fresh."
From: A Manual of Heritage Roses by Deane M Ross, 1989 (For anyone interested, this is a great little introduction to the whole subject of older roses from a local multi-generational family rose growing firm. It was my original basic 'bible' on the subject and I still refer to it quite often.)
Comtesse :¬)
PS Did a quick Google check and found an interesting variety of techniques suggested; one that sounded as if it might be especially good for hot areas/weather was adding plenty of ice to the water, renewing regularly - several commentators swore by this one.
Has anyone else got other/ better tips?

Sara Ann, just in case you're not familiar with it, the Peter Beales online catalogue is another useful resource for finding roses to match specific criteria like yours - you can select various combinations from quite a long list. Of course, you can then cross-reference to HelpMeFind for additional pictures, member comments, where to buy in the US, etc.
Incidentally, it appears that Beales no longer stock DAs - I think they're developing their own range instead. Their climate (in Norfolk, England) would be equivalent to US Zone 8a (?) I suppose - same as Marlorena's and Campanula's - but you can include selecting for 'growing in a cold climate'; AND 'hot climate' if your summer temps are regularly over, maybe, 80 or 90'F max.
Comtesse :¬)

For a short one, I use Sweet Pea (mauve to pink) and for a taller one, I use Lavender Dream (pink and mauve) in my shade rose garden. Also Natchitoches Noisette, who has bigger flowers and scent! She's tall (eventually) but can be pruned shorter with no issues at all.
But that's not with 4 hours of direct sun. They basically just get filtered sun and not even all day at that.
New Dawn is the absolute best in the shade (my clone repeats well), but she's a monster climber, so that's just a bit of trivia, really :D


If the canes of the standards are very dormant, you can do what I used to do to get them started:
Get a large clear plastic bag, take a couple handfuls of very damp spaghnum peat moss and pack it over the bud union. Take the bag and place over the canes and secure with a couple twist ties, under the bud union, make some air holes in the bag (you can clip off the corners of the bag).
Keep them in some filtered sun, and watch them, in a few days the canes will start to bud and new basal breaks often emerge from the bud union.
Gradually give the bag more air spaces as you are ready to remove the bag and moss.

I am not in So FL (yet lol) I am in NE FL but I do have some of the roses that you all have listed so maybe they will do okay for me here. I also got a ton of DA roses to try here and also started a little collection of Teas. What the heck you only live once why not just throw everything up in the air and see what sticks lol. I guess that is how one would find out what will work. I decided I will just get what I like and see how they work out. Its not the end of the world if they don't. I am used to culling out brugmansia seedlings and what not so roses are no problem.
I am not new to roses just new to growing them in the ground here in FL. Before, I was in a hot dry climate so now its a warm humid one but I have lived and gardened in many places from zn 3 to zn 10.
The soil is different here as well. I have had Blue Girl and Double Delight in pots here going on 6 yrs now. They never get black spot and not too many other pests besides the occasional aphids. I think that all the other bugs are much more attracted to the hundreds of brugmansia and brug seedlings that I have (all bugs seem to adore those) and leave the roses and other plants alone lol.
I found this list of roses for South FL maybe it will be helpful to someone.
http://miami-dade.ifas.ufl.edu/old/programs/urbanhort/publications/old-roses-for-south-florida.htm

Ken, you could not be more right about veteran's honor. The blooms are always facing down. I usually always cut them to bring them inside for that very reason, not to mention its an amazing cut flower holding its form for well over a week. But yes, so true about the blooms facing down. A pitty, but still worth growing in my opinion.
I'm very intrigued about Louise Estes and Mavrik and now that you tell me Louise Estes is fragrant, I must have it!
I do grow PJP and Pascally. PJP has been a great bloomer although she has had a little black spot, but she's not fully established yet and I'm already noticing an improvement from last year. Pascally is new for me and I got a somewhat crappy body bag from Costco. She's bloomed, but not sure what the future holds. I grow her in a pot because she's on Dr Huey.
My Touch of Class has been pretty good too, but she is also on Dr. Huey. I always wonder what she'd be like on fortuniana. I saw her once at home depot on fort and I didnt grab her and I think i should have now looking back.
I would add Crystalline to my list, but I have a few whites already and such limited space. I've had good luck with Sugar Moon too and her fragrance is to die for.
My poor tuscan sun has been in recovery for almost a year. She's had such a hard time bouncing back from when i was pregnant and neglected all my roses. I lost about 13 roses that year due to just pure neglect but I was just too tired and sick at the time with my pregnancy. Weeded out the weaklings though, that's for sure. LOL


Since this post is getting older you may not see this. Are you still looking for a climbing rose? I happened to come across the Arborose collection. I never actually saw what your zone is. Northland Rosarium carries the collection. They are zone5 roses, all but one have some fragrance and they repeat. Whats different about them is the softer bendable cane that you could wrap around the post. They are shorter but would still give color and height for the area. With time they will produce more canes each year for a fuller look. Just an idea in case your still looking.


There used to be a discussion/ chat forum for us rose folks on the old site but now all those got mixed in with the rose talk. People asked about patterns and I like the ones by truly Victorian. All the sizes are included so you can get a custom fit. However they are drawn from real antique clothes so it's not a modern fit and most of them are designed to go over a corset but you don't need to wear it uncomfortably tight, just snug. If you had heavy work to do then you wore a corded petticoat not a hoop to hold your skirts out. Women didn't have legs in those days and they didn't discuss them :) they were just supposed to glide along gracefully like swans as they walked.

No, our Ace Hardware is strictly a hardware store. The Growing Place carries First Edition plants. Don't know what roses yet. Chalet Nursery in Chicago is a good place to call when looking for something. Thought about calling them both in early April. After all CN does say on their web page if you don't see it just ask we can likely get it for you. Lowe's and Menards also carry First Edition roses.

There are several up my way that say they carry First Editions, will have to go look:). Sorry Patty I was thinking you were further south - some of the Ace in Bloomington/ Spring field region carry Austins, thought they might have this too!

Way too early to take off the collars, simply cut back the bushes to the top of the collars and wail till late April, I'm in Kenosha, we get frosts into May, so no need to hurry. I usually prune the last week of April. When you clear away the collars and prune, then spray the bare canes with Mancozeb, when your foliage comes out, start a weekly spray program, and you won't have black spot....

I use flakes of old straw mainly, I mound up as much soil as I can over the base then lean the straw against the rose in somewhat of a circle. It allows drainage but protects from cold and drying winds. I haven't lost a rose in the 10yrs I've been doing this. It also makes it easy in the spring if I want to pull it back for a bit or need to put it back up.

Thank you everyone for all your advice! I can tell I'm going to spend a lot of time on this forum. I am an iris lover but I need something else to to tend to after they bloom and I have roses already. I have a feeling that rose growing is a lot like iris growing...you can always squeeze in one more plant.
I purchased two potted climbing roses at Ocean state job lots. It is very early for them to be out but they were 5 dollars and I have spring fever so I couldn't resist. I think I will have to wait on everything. It looked like spring was coming but I still have snow.

I'm glad you like it here, gibsongirl! We love having you! Have to laugh at your observation and you are entirely correct. There's always room for one more!
If you have an unheated garage store those two climbers in there until it's warm enough to plant. The rule of thumbs is when the forsythias bloom. That usually means the soil has warmed up enough for there to be active growth and it should be safe to plant.

IMHO the guy at the nursery is wrong. That rose needs a bigger pot. If done properly, with no disturbance to the existing root ball, it shouldn't even wilt when transplanted. Prep your new pot with soil in the bottom high enough so that the existing root ball will be at the same level, slip the root ball out of the old pot and into the new one and then fill around it with more soil and water. It should be no problem for the rose.

Thanks for the encouragement and reassurance. Its easy to get caught up in the process when I am hoping that they'll get to the business of growing so I know how many I am keeping and how many I am sharing, and of which roses heh.
Are you talking about any part of the cutting getting brown as usually not surviving? (Like the top tips of some are definitely on the way out though most of the length is still green on quite a few of them).

If it's just the tip leave it but keep an eye on it because often times that will begin to travel down the cane. Sometimes if the cane had a bloom at the tip a short section will die back where that bloom was cut off but the rest of the cane will be OK. If there is a brown stripe down one side of the cane it's over. It will eventually all turn black and dry up. If it's at the bottom where the soil line is it's already toast. It's probably rotted below the soil level.

I saw some at Lowes, outside in freezing weather. I'm assuming they're keeping them outside, vs the unheated entryway, as they're on a stationary display. Do you think they're ok? The bud eyes are red and pushing out some growth. The canes were huge and I'm wondering how they get a big enough root system in a 3 inch cylinder tube. I haven't bought any before, but would like to try one or two.

I thought I had never done the submerged in the bag thing but now that I think of it I actually have. They come out around here way too early to plant and I've often brought some home and opened the top, poked holes in the bag and stuck them in a bucket of water in the basement to wait for planting weather. I didn't soak the canes but definitely the packaging medium.

Evelyn is one of my favorite, but the most fragrant rose in my garden is Mme. Issac Pereire. In my garden, it is a prolific spring bloomer, with a late repeat. It can get unruly and here in the wet and damp Pacific North West, black spot sets in late summer and through the fall. I just don't bother fighting it, as this rose is tough enough to spring back every year.

I will have another look at Tamora. Does she have a strong sweet scent? I was thinking of having two apricots with strong scent next to the house where i can smell them from inside on warm summer days. I think Lady Emma for one and the second, not sure.
So far I have Cr Princess M, Don Juan, Warm Welcome and Royal Gold by the house and room between a couple of them for two medium sized apricots. I thought yellow because of DJ but apricot looks better with WW and CPM and nice with the red or yellow roses. I have 6 windows open on the computer with pictures of the different roses together figuring out colours that look good next to each other and apricot seems to work. No obsession with roses in this house, ha ha!! Any thoughts?



Are there trees that give it more shade throughout the summer?
We needs lots more pictures!!! On my monitor the darker flower is a wonderful shade of yesteryear's smokey antiquey pink (?). I've been reading about 'Cape Diamond' because it also has that color. But a much flatter bloom showing the yellow stamens. Such a rare shade in roses. Lucky you! Perhaps it is just a once bloomer?
Definitely not Cape Diamond She never has that shape. Color is close but she opens flat. It looks so much like a floribunda or grandiflora. But even a starving flora will re bloom. Your foliage is in too good of shape for this to be a neglected rose bush. Is there any chance you have rose midge. If other roses are re-blooming I would think not.