22,795 Garden Web Discussions | Roses



It may be interesting to compare the size of the pollen grains produced by the single with the size of the pollen grains produced by the normal flowers. I would expect that a local high school or college biology/botany lab could do it very quickly for you with a microscope. This may be a new way of producing diploids from tetraploids.


This rose produces perfect blooms every time. Speaking of time I've discovered over the years that this petite beauty is actually a really good garden rose. The shrub is just never going to be big. And yes Jeri, the short upright growth habit is perfect for a container. You really should try to find one grafted before it disappears completely from commerce. I don't think David Austin is offering her anymore. Pity.

It was planted in summer of 2012 and the shrub size is small. I wanted a compact rose shrub for my part shade, urban front garden.
Molineux - I'd love to see yours.
My DAs are thriving this year - no blackspot - but this has not been an average summer for us! Much cooler with very little humidity.


I was accidentally sent beauty secret ( for buff beauty) and it has been a delightful mistake! Lipstick red perfect blooms, no disease. Not sure where it will go in ground as I don't have any other reds. But I do love it ! I'll get a pic in a few days as more buds will open.


Ken, they only hold form for about a day before they open fully but I did sucessfully show a couple this spring.
Yes, some minis can and do get very large bushes but not all of them. X-Rated never gets bigger than 1 X 1 foot in a season but Softee will easily be 4 X 4 if I let it. You have to do a little research on them to know which ones are big and which ones are small plants.


I live in Roanoke and have contacted the director of the project. We discussed various option and I invited her to my place for the fall flush so she can see what sorts of roses do well here. She doesn't seem especially knowledgeable about roses and became excited when I mentioned Noisettes, the southern/USA rose. The old garden was exclusively Hybrid Teas and modern Floribundas and thus high maintenance. The volunteer brigade that looked after it has dissipated and RRD killed off most of what was left. She is very open to other alternatives. I look forward to the project. I also emailed her, throwing out some ideas. We'll see....

Pembroke, I'm just down the freeway from you and I have 2 of this rose. They're about 4yrs old now, both are own root and are just now coming into their own. The early years were full of spindly canes and slow growth but this year they are really taking off, full of nonstop buds. They are in full sun and get fed once a month with Mills Magic mix or rosetone. I had to cut them down to about a foot tall after this winter. That said, it's not a huge rose, mine are 3x3 very full plants right now. HTH

I have 2 own root PJP2 roses and struggle to keep them below 6 feet. Mine grew 3 feet in the first year and is now in its 4th year. They repeat quickly with large blossoms,around 4-6 inches across and with a high petal count. I live in USDA zone 9 about half way between San Francisco and Yosemite National Park in California. Roses begin to bloom here in late March to early April and continue to around the middle of December- a very long growing period. This is the best white hybrid tea that I have ever grown, and I have grown quite a few. Its a shame that it doesn't perform better in other areas as it is a truly magnificent rose here.

FWIW -- Some years ago, in another drought cycle (tho, one less lengthy, and less-severe than the current one) we did buy and use silicon granules.
We found them to be most-effective if used when planting bare root roses, because the [completely hydrated] silicon chunklets could be evenly distributed through the soil.
(NOTE: DO NOT MIX DRY GRANULES IN THE SOIL, AND THEN PLANT IT, AND WET IT. The granules increase asonishingly in size, when fully hydrated.) They can actually push the whole plant right out of a bed, or a pot.
If you want to add them to an established planting, you can "drill" a narrow hole close to the plant, and drop in just a few granules.
When used optimally, the granules really DID make a difference when a bed of roses went un-watered. This observation, when a section of an automated watering system failed, un-noticed.
We found that fine feeder roots really did attach themselves to the hydrated silicon chunklets, and thus were able to suck water from them.
But whether or not they make a difference in a three-year or more drought? That's difficult to say.
Over time, the granules became difficult to find locally, AND more and more expensive. We took to using them ONLY for small, potted, own-root plants -- and finally stopped using them altogether.
If you have a very large rose garden, they may be helpful, but you will need to have very deep pockets.

They are not talking about what is known as water crystals. This is about silicates such as discussed in this earlier thread.
http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/roses/msg030010308429.html
Here is a link that might be useful: link for above

I'm not sure what your picture is supposed to be showing that pertains to BS and missing leaves. What I see is a beautiful rose with many leaves, including new leaves, and lots of gorgeous blooms.
So what is the problem?
If you are asking what to do about BS, get some Bayer Garden Disease Control for Roses, Flowers, and Shrubs (get that name--NOT one of the other Bayer products)--at Lowes or online. Buy a small sprayer container for about $20 -- I got mine at Home Depot but other similar stores probably also carry them. Follow Bayer's directions carefully, but make sure you watered the roses deep and well the day before, and pick an early morning time for spraying, before the breeze picks up and swats you in the face with fungicide.
Spray with that once or twice at 10 day interval, and probably you will have killed the BS. And with really hot weather coming, you may not have any more BS attacks until cooler weather in the Fall becomes more conducive the BS.
But based on your pic, I'd say keep on watering your rose and enjoy it!
Kate

Oh, Dr. Henry, you tell me there is so much more for me to worry about, more even than a sweet and willing gardener who accidentally uses RoundUp on my roses. I do not even like to view the space where 400-500 beautiful roses once lived and bloomed in my garden and now twigs of memory and dying leaves abound.
If I had any other diseases to combat other than those I already know,I most likely would consume a bottle of RoundUp. It's just too much for my non-intellectual, non-scientific, right-brain mind.

Thanks, seil, you enabler! Scrumptious color.
Your rose porn has made me add Valencia back to my list of "must haves." :-)
(This past spring I had Valencia in my order cart at Edmunds and swapped it out for Julia Child. However, I will say that Julia has bloomed non-stop so far this summer.)
Chris

No zone, no close-up of stamen, stem, bloom, no idea. You should give much more information than what is given. I don't want a dinner invitation, just enough information to try to help you with your rose question. They certainly do not appear to be hybrid tea roses from where I sit, but they could be some kind of shrub or China, etc.

His original post seemed to indicate that he was in Zone 5 -- HOWEVER, yes. We'd need to see more close up images of the roses -- and if there's anything known about what sort of roses they are, that would be helpful.
That said, I see blooms on the left, and blooms on the right. A close look at those would be helpful.
Without more info, we can't help much.



Thanks so much, Ingrid! I haven't been taking pics lately because the garden is a bit dowdy now. I planned for blooms this part of the season to come from direct-sown perennials and self-seeding annuals to fill the spaces between the roses and perennials I put in as plants, but so few survived on rain alone. My landlord didn't come by to turn on the hose this year until after most of the seedlings bit the dust. I also noticed that while the thick layer of mulch I put down last year is keeping the soil below moist, the top layer drains too quickly to allow seedlings to grow within it.
So for now, I'm just tending what's there, which is mostly a sea of foliage with scattered blooms among some roses and some perennials and clematis. But I'll be correcting this for next year. I'm getting Oriental and Trumpet lilies (along with a bunch of early Spring bulbs) to plant in Autumn, which will be in their glory this time of year. And I'll be adding layers of my version of "Mel's Mix" on top of the mulch periodically through Spring to allow a better medium for germinating seeds, which I'll direct-sow again next year earlier in Spring than I did this year.
:-)
~Christopher
You have done some heroic work on that property, Christopher. What a transformation!
JoeMoose your GB looks fantastic, even with a bit of summer crispiness.