22,152 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
Hi Linda, traditionally ramblers are more lax, their canes are more flexible, more easily trained, most often with smaller individual flowers in clusters. Climbers have tended to have stiffer canes and most often with larger individual flowers. Climate, maturity, condition of the plant, growing conditions can often make one type resemble another until conditions improve or the plant settles in. Kim
It really is awful. Mine are the type that might not run around above ground, but they do use mole tunnels. I have both moles and voles, and so the tunneling is extensive. If you see holes in the ground that are like a quarter in diameter, those are the vole holes.
I use 1/2 inch-spaced hardware cloth and cut it with straight-tipped "tin snip" metal cutters that look a bit like scissors. I'm really fast and good at making the baskets now :) It works wonderfully. I've seen holes where they tried to go in from below and couldn't do it, or where they changed their mind if they went in the top. When they hit the metal, they change course either way.
I did have to dig up all of my established roses when the voles found the roses. I was losing too many, so fast!
There is a bait that does not cause the same damage to dogs, etc, but it would hurt squirrels and smaller rodents that ate it. I bought some once but was still too afraid to use it. I just have so much wildlife here that I didn't risk it. The baskets work the best anyway, so that's how I handle it now. And I encourage the snakes that the neighbors had practically killed off. That'll help :D :D
If clematis are struggling there--roses likely will also--box hedges don't require a lot as they are slow-growing. If it was me I would FIRST determine why the clems are not doing well before planting anything new. This will save you $$$$ in the long run!
Think of the soil and light/water conditions before any shopping. This is the "infrastructure" for plants. You would not think about curtains or pillows before you have a room to put them in, would you? Same thing with plants...
Some things to think about: how long have the clems been there. How were they planted. What is the soil like. How much sun are they getting and how much water. Is there root competition from trees nearby. Is there root competition from the box hedge.
I'm not in your area, but we get the right ingredients for heavy blackspot pressure here as well. I'm just starting my garden here, and this will be the second growing season my roses will experience. If you want absolutely perfect foliage the whole season, then you just may have to spray regularly. Personally, I'm not that finicky, and other plants come into their own when blackspot comes to town, so even if something defoliates it's not tremendously noticeable. Then again, most of my roses are NOT Hybrid Teas, so.....
But before you commit yourself to a regular spraying schedule, first watch your plants as they grow, and keep them growing well. Some will be more noticeably susceptible than others. Don't just assume that everything will require being on chemical life support to survive from day 1 -- sure, you COULD spray everything all season long, but you might be doing more than is necessary. So see how they do unassisted first, then intervene when necessary. Even if you still do have to spray some, at least you won't be wasting money on fungicides when they're not needed.
:-)
~Christopher
For us, the spraying season doesn't start until the weather warms up so that we have wet leaves and temperatures in the 60s. Black Spot isn't a problem in cold weather.
Immunox offers good control over powdery mildew in our yard, but it needs to be sprayed every week for BS control.
It is a good idea to spray fungicide only products and avoid all in one products that have insecticides that will kill off bees and other beneficial insects.
Don't send email, it may take them a week to reply to your email. Which may aggravate you even more. I sent them an email after 1 week of hearing nothing, and they did not reply. Call them instead.
My 5 bare roots delivered on Friday. They were scheduled to be shipped out in 2 weeks. But when I called on Tuesday, the customer service person was very polite and told me that she will have them shipped the next day. I would suggest that you call them. They are very customer friendly.
This post was edited by Joopster on Mon, May 12, 14 at 9:32
Have you ever looked at HelpMeFind? You enter a rose's name in the search field and a file-page comes up. One of the tabs is "Buy From" which shows nurseries carrying that particular rose. I got mine as a VID band from Vintage Gardens, but with that nursery closing, you'll have to look through some of the others. The other option is, since you already have a few, is to try rooting cuttings yourself. Keep in mind that if your others are grafted, own-root 'Mirandy' might not show the same degree of vigor. I know it from only my own-root plant, and while I wouldn't call it "wimpy" I am guessing that most mid-20th Century Hybrid Teas would grow more vigorously on rootstock. See the link below for nurseries listing 'Mirandy'.
:-)
~Christopher
Here is a link that might be useful: 'Mirandy' rose nurseries at HelpMeFind
Earlier in spring, I found Mirandy at Lowe's. Havent planted it yet, but it is a very healthy plant and though they may be sold out of them, perhaps might still have a few left. It is blooming for the 2nd time - they are lovely and are fragrant.
Judith
From your description, both of your roses were likely budded on the root stock Dr. Huey. Apparently the scions (the named roses which were budded to the stock) have died, leaving only the root stock. If that is the case, there is nothing left of the original "old roses". All you have now are two plants of the root stock. Do the "black wild roses" look like any of these photos at the link below? If they do, my diagnosis is very likely accurate. The only way to get your old roses back would be to identify what they were and buy new plants of them, presuming you can identify them and that someone is offering them. Good luck. Kim
Here is a link that might be useful: Dr. Huey
I think it is the angle the photo was taken that is what is throwing you off.
If you look at the fence, it is likely that the posts are set every 8 feet. Looking at the timbers to make the beds, those are also sold in 8 foot lengths.
Guessing that each of those "beds" (note there is a timber going toward the fence at what could be 8 feet) is actually only holding 2 or 3 bushes every 8 feet. So yes they might be tight if you like the look of bush space bush. But they might not be nearly as tight as the look from the angle of the photo.
FYI the local rose garden seems to use 2 feet spacing for most of the roses. At the beginning of the season they look far apart and at the end they are a big mass of plants
Burlington Roses..I havent ordered from them but heard good reviews on pricing, quality and shipping cost. Email them for catalog...
Longagoroses..good quality band, a bit pricey if you want DA, I paid $10.00 for shipping on 3 or 4 band.She sells on Ebay too.
Evening Star should do well with mulch in zone 5. I grew it by the sea where gale force winds in the winter hit it and it never even had any dieback. IMO it is one of the best white floribundas. No disease and good vigour. Don't think it had any fragrance.
Wow, that is a big difference. I wish I could say why but I really have no idea what might cause that on the same plant. Unless it's a sport