22,796 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
Cora Stubbs looks wonderful! Unfortunately, in Australia we don't have that many varieties of peonies to choose from.
Just did some research and heard people are saying Sarah Bernhardt looks mundane, Now, I'm kind of worried. The bloom sort of reminds me of David Austin rose Egylantne - which is rather ordinary.
I bought a barerooted one. How can I make it bloom in Spring? I really want to see what the bloom look like.
Peonies can be rather slow to start blooming. Next spring, feed it and keep it well-watered (but not standing in water!) and it PERHAPS will give you a bloom or two. My experience with peonies, however, is that you have to wait several years before you will see a decent bloom, and if you planted them too deep (the "eyes" should be 1/2 in. to 1 inch below the surface--no deeper), you may never get any bloom. And do not move your peonies--they highly resent being moved.
Happily planted, a peony will give you 40 years or more of beautiful blooms.
They need sun also.
I think Sarah Bernhardt is a lovely peony--but not a loud showy one. I reserve that category for my Scarlet O'Hara peony--so brilliant red that everyone passing by stops to comment on it.
Kate
I too have been waiting patiently for the annual Half Off Rose sale at Heirloom. It is usually this time of year. I emailed them today and they said they are having a sale at the nursery for 3 days starting Aug 8. They aren't doing it online unfortunately:( I've been waiting all Summer for it and it doesn't sound like it is going to happen online. Does Rogue Valley usually do a sale?
I've grown at least a rose in pots over the years, but I grow far more roses in pots now; actually about a dozen. My temperatures have been in the 100's with 5% humidity, and three of my roses in pots are in full sun. Nothing is frying or dying in pots. I give this description only to communicate that maybe other explanations should be considered. In the past when I used terra cotta pots ( I only use resin or plastic now) the pot was doubled (plastic pot inside of the terra-cotta).
I primarily use M.G. Moisture Control potting mix. I do not know if any of this helps but I hope you get to the bottom of the problem and are able yo save your roses.
Lynn
This post was edited by desertgarden561 on Tue, Jul 22, 14 at 16:29
I'm not good at keeping roses alive in pots and even the ones in the ground have been struggling, and the coming ten days are supposed to be really hot here. My soil is also rather poor and drains quickly so it's a real challenge.
I have found that mounding up the soil around each rose and putting leaf mulch in that area and watering that area slowly (unless of course you have drip irrigation which is even better) has helped to keep the roses going, with even new growth appearing. It will become more challenging as the hot weather continues month after month but all we can do is try. I would think that container roses would do best in almost complete shade during the hottest months. I'm so sorry that you've already lost several roses, that has to be very depressing.
Something I have noticed is that when I first start planting roses in an area I never had them before they seem to get attacked by rose slugs. But by the next season the good guys seem to discover they have a new area to patrol.
I planted poor Othello in a new area and it looks like it has flyswatters for leaves. Bet in a couple of seasons it will only have a few holes like the rest of the beds have done. But I sure feel bad for that rose right now.
Since this thread is active I will ask here. On my other thread I had a huge sucker rose. I cut it off. However, there were stems still sticking out from the root. I did my best to cut the sucker stem as close to the root as possible. Since I am a new gardener can you tell me if I did it right? Do you think it's close enough or should I cut closer? By the way, is there anyway I can click on a button where I can see all of my posts?Thanks for all of your help.
Please STOP cutting off all the new canes on your roses! Not all new canes that come up from the base of a rose are suckers nor are they all root stock shoots.
First you need to know if your rose is an own root rose. A variety of rose growing only on it's own roots. If that is the case then ALL canes coming up from the bottom are your rose and are not suckers or root stock.
A grafted rose is one variety of rose grafted unto the top of another variety of rose for it's root stock only. The purpose of the grafting is to add extra growing vigor to a variety that may not be as strong of a grower on it's own roots. That is why certain varieties of roses are used as root stocks. They are VERY vigorous growers and will add extra umph to the weaker variety.
If you have grafted roses you have to find the where the graft is and then figure out if the new cane is coming from above or below that graft. If the cane is above the graft knot then it is NOT a sucker but a new cane of the variety you want. If the cane is from below or beneath the graft then it is most probably the root stock coming up and should be removed at it's source, destroying the growth node in the process to prevent resprouting. If you live in a cold zone and you plant your grafts below ground for wintering purposes then you need to uncover the graft and find out where that cane is coming from before you remove it.
Funrose, on your first picture I do not see any suckers on that plant at all! They all look like your rose and your rose looks very happy, healthy and growing and blooming well. Leave it alone!
On the second set of pictures it's harder to tell where the graft is but I'm thinking that you may have cut off perfectly healthy new rose growth from your rose and not root stock coming up. Next time let them grow out some. You will easily be able to tell that there is a difference in the appearance of regular new rose canes and the root stock canes which will tend to be sort of spindly and the leaves will look very different. And not all roses have only 3 or 5 leaf sets. There are some roses that will occasionally have 7 leaf sets. So you can't just go by that.
Roses do not grow just from one cane or trunk like a tree. They grow from several points. Most grafted roses will have several points where the wanted variety has been grafted to the root stock variety. So they also grow from more than one point on the graft. I have roses that have 6 to 8 canes coming up from the graft. All of which are the correct variety and not root stock.
The thing about feeding it is I haven't been confident about whether I should be treating it as a first year plant (no fertilizing) or a 2nd year plant. So - in early June I did put down a conservative amount (not a "kick in the pants" amount) of organic food - either Rose tone or Milorganite, I can't remember which. Then last week I gave all my roses a fish emulsion feeding.
Grandma, it's getting awfully late in the season to plant anything new. For one thing, most nurseries won't have any selection left. For another the rose may not have adequate time to settle in before cold weather comes. Wait until next spring and pick out a rose you love to replace this one with. You can look for something that grows on it's own roots, so you won't have the root stock growing problem, or you can still get a grafted rose but plant that graft a good 4 or 5 inches below the soil to protect it from winter freezing. It still isn't fool proof but it will help for most winters.
Jeri is right. What you probably have is a HYBRID TEA not a TEA rose. They are very different and in your zone 5 a real TEA rose has NO chance of surviving your winters. They are extremely winter tender. But there are many HYBRID TEA roses that can survive a zone 5 winter if planted correctly. My suggestion is to look for some of the older varieties that have stood the test of time. They're still around for many reasons and one of them is that they are hardier then people think they are.
That is some type of rose fungal disease. You would have to post a nice clear closeup pic for others to know for sure what fungal disease it may be.
It is normal for SOME roses to get these fungal diseases then to drop some or all of its leaves over a period of time.
Options in your case are to just ignore it and sooner or later the rose bush will grow new leaves.
OR
Spray leaves with a fungicide on a regular cycle throughout the growing season...
I choose not to spray here so someone else can help you with that info...
There is some black spot and I think I can see the start of some powdery mildew problems too. Look for the Bayer Rose Disease Control product (NOT the 2 in 1 or 3 in 1 products!) and give it a good spray following the instructions on the bottle carefully. If you are experiencing hot humid days and cool nights that's the perfect weather for these fungal diseases to show up.
It likes cool, dry climates. It does not like hot summers. In hot summers petals are few and form is poor on NZ.
Having said that, your rose is just in the ground, what, less than one full year? It will not give the best performance it can give until at least year three. I would add more mulch around it, to hold in moisture. Your mulch layer looks pretty thin.
New Zealand grows fairly well here in humid Eastern Pennsylvania. Note the word "fairly". Like most other hybrid teas. It gets 7-8 hours of full sun.
If sprayed with fungicide every three weeks, fertilized every month, mulched heavely, deadheaded regularly and treated for midge, I get a somewhat scraggly bush with 4-5 flushes of nice big fragrant blossoms.
My main bed of HT's used to be two rows of roses. It is now a short single row of roses with other perennials in front and at the ends to hide the rose bushes.
I one had 45 HT's. Now I have 7: New Zealand, Sweet Surrender, Secret, Heirloom, Firefighter, Tiffany and Peace.
HT bushes are not particularly attractive in the landscape no matter how hard I try.