22,153 Garden Web Discussions | Roses

One possibility is Snowbird. I have seen it as a climber (in southern Cal) but mine is a small bush. Tiny buds open into gorgeous blooms.

Easy to root, blooms like crazy when still a tiny plant. I love this rose.

where did you get your 'snowbird' Kathy?

Besides all the other good comments & advice:

Dang, this year is awful! I'm nw of SA. Besides all of the freeze damage & drought, this season's flush got fried on the canes with all the hot dry winds. I had a couple of weeks of gorgeous blooms, then the temps soared into the 90s before the canes had time to harden up.

Oh, well, I snagged 30 bags of oak leaves, mulched the heck out of everything & have fingers crossed for rain the next couple of days.

Really, things have been rough for plants all over the past couple of years & most especially so for young plants. I'm gonna assume things can only improve, with watering & mulch.

removed double post

This post was edited by bluegirl on Wed, May 7, 14 at 21:34

i love the simsalabim rose beth. Would you consider selling it or rooting a cutting for me?

WRT to Caramella: not sure what you consider "continuous". I get 3 - 4 flushes a year. I make sure to give it an all over haircut after each bloom cycle. As the blooms have a lot of petals, it does not rebloom as fast as Blushing knock Out. I suppose that some creative pruning could provide the appearance of continuous bloom, but I haven't made the attempt to try.

Thanks Hoov. I have lost so many rose tags. I looked at those after they bloomed, and thought they were Peace. I am going to start putting my own garden markers beside all my roses, so I will know what they are when I loose the original tags.

They look like my peace roses

Roses Unlimited sells potted roses as we know.

The concern here is only about bare roots. Although I've never ordered freshly dug bare root roses, there are some specialty nurseries that dig and ship bare root plants - usually shrubs and trees, on demand. I would NOT advise extended soaking for them.

The extended soaking discussed above applies specifically to roses that were dug in the fall and kept in cold storage for spring shipment which is the industry norm.

Freshly dug or potted roses, I (personally) would schedule for delivery near the last perennial frost date.

An exception to all of this would be roses that were greenhouse grown - like Roses Unlimited. These I would schedule nearer the last ANNUAL frost date.

This post was edited by sandandsun on Tue, Mar 25, 14 at 15:01

So I ordered a Day Breaker rose from spring hill nurseries and received it today but bare root! I'm new at gardening and just have no clue what to do with it. So I guess from all the reading I've done I'll soak it to the graft for 24 hrs then is it ready to be planted outside I'm the ground? We're already warm here in Dallas with the temps getting in the 90s by Friday so not sure if it's ok to plant or not and if so is there anything special I need to do to it? I've read a few of you guys mentioning mounding; what is that?
Thanks and sorry for the ignorance
Elce

I've been having a huge problem with it, too :( It has to be the winter for me. It's hitting some roses that were doing beautifully, and it has hit just too many for it to be anything but the stupid polar vortex. The worst are ones that were in the bitter winds (protected, but not up top).

A couple got cankers suddenly way down at the base, but many looked great until their canes just suddenly shriveled. It might have to do with the cold/warm cycles that happened here, but one way or another it was the winter that did it, I think. So frustrating!

Many are coming back really great from a drastic pruning, though. My Eden had to be cut completely off (a big ole Eden!), but she's growing strongly from the roots. I found that little ants had made a home with eggs in her old, huge main cane base (the old woody part), lol! So maybe she needed a rejuvenation pruning ;)

Good luck, y'all (and for me)!!

Great article!

Thanks Cynthia. How many less hours of sun does Ramblin Red get compared to your Quadra?

Hmm, it's a bit hard to say. Quadra is on the north side of my house and Ramblin Red is on the east, so neither get a ton of direct sun in either location since both are shaded by the house for parts of the day. I'm going to guess that Quadra gets 8 hours of direct sun with some filtered sun and Ramblin Red gets maybe 6 hours of direct sun with filtered sun and shade alternating at the ends of the day. I've never checked it that closely, but plenty of other roses on the same side with Ramblin Red bloom fairly constantly, so it isn't entirely a sun issue.

Cynthia

Love the bright colors. So refreshing. Crappy overcast days with snow. I'm sooooo ready for nice weather.

Which one of those roses is The McCartney Rose?? I've been thinking of trying that one. Maybe next year.
Carol

Carol - It's probably easier just to show you a picture of it by itself. This picture was taken last year. It is so windy lately it is difficult to get any decent pictures. The shade of pink is very pretty, I think. It is a good rose for me, has a great fragrance, it has about two dozen buds on it now. I am very pleased with it. I certainly hope your weather improves soon.

Thanks Kate! I know about FM, I actually ordered from heirloom so I have a bunch of roses of all types, but most of them Austins with the exception of Frederick and Chrysler Imperial. I read of someone on the forum that said WS2000 and Golden Celebration can take and actually prefer partial shade as own roots, especially bands. But I'm afraid that will mean bad bloom/rebloom.

I don't know what to put in that area, I was hoping to put one of my roses there but it might not be ideal. 3 hours isn't enough sun.. even though it's morning sun.

hoping to get more information, and thanks for the reply Kate!

Have you thought about putting some hydrangeas in that shady area? Most love some morning sun as long as they get shade during the brutally hot part of the day (which is after 2:00 during July-Aug. in my Midwestern zone 6). Limelight is a nice macrophylla hydrangea. But I also like Annabelle--which is a different type of hydrangea and can handle a bit more sunshine than the macrophyllas. (The paniculata hydrangeas, on the other hand, can take almost full day sun.).

I'm a big fan of hydrangeas and there are lots of lovely macrophylla hydrangeas out there--some supposedly re-bloom. They all bloom for at least a month--sometimes longer--and the bush looks nice all season. They are very showy in bloom.

Kate

Could you take a photo of the plant to show? The rose is beautiful!

Thank you debinnh! I love this rose too. I wish i could put it in a contest.

Yet more gorgeous gardens since I last looked - I'm just so impressed with everyone's efforts. emrogers, I really like the idea of the stone border. It finishes off that bed perfectly.

Christopher, I'm looking forward to seeing your garden this spring.

hoovb, I'm looking forwards to seeing one of the best gardens anywhere.

Ingrid

WOW!! All of the gardens here are so incredibly beautiful and inspiring. My mouth was just hanging open looking at some of these photos, so many magical looking gardens. My new little garden is fighting to establish itself, hopefully soon I will have some photos to share with you all soon. Thank you all so much for sharing your gardens!

Thank you. I went ahead and cut the stems that were wilted. They had become shriveled as well. I noticed that some of the leaf tips were black. Almost like they were burned. I think I'm going to shade them during the hottest part of the day until they get stronger.

It's been about 10 days since I last posted. The canes are looking a little better. I'm just noticing that the young stems are looking charred even though I'm shading them during the hottest part of the day. Should I fertilize them? Should I continue to water daily?

I'm sorry Andrea, I don't know. Honestly, I don't know what the chemical is. I don't use fungicides, period. I only use pesticides when absolutely necessary and never on ornamentals. It's simply a personal choice. I react to many chemicals, many scents, many household cleaners, many detergents. I don't wear anything scented and my friends and family know not to when around me. I avoid the candle and soap aisles in stores and everything about Bed, Bath and Beyond because of the scents and the reactions too many of them generate in my body. My gardening, as with pretty much the rest of my life, is as "homeopathic" as possible.

Henry, as I previously wrote, yes, our climate and continual, chronic water stress caused by the extremes we encounter daily, I'm certain help foster the mildew and rust issues. The only times I didn't have rust and mildew somewhere in the old Newhall garden were when I ran overhead, oscillating sprinklers over large areas for several hours daily. As I wrote then, water was cheap and plentiful. Black spot is very seldom an issue except in my pot ghetto where the plants are stressed, often immature and over crowded. Those are often the causes of epidemics among people, so why not plants? Water stress whacks out the immune systems, opening the door for susceptible varieties to go overboard expressing the diseases. I have a seedling I raised last year between Cal Poly (the mini I can force to rust by drying it out) and a Basye hybrid between Laevigata and Banksiae. If I don't water the pot that seedling grows in daily, it mildews immediately. As long as I keep that soil wet, it grows with no mildew. It's the same as it was with R. Arkansana and Cal Poly with rust, only with mildew. Look for extreme water stress, fix it and see what a difference there might be. Kim

Thanks Kim.

I would like NOT to use anything also, but I have picked many leaves off this FM and it just continues to spread. With the little BS that I get, tossing leaves worked fine.

But, as Jackie just let me know, you can't touch and toss the leaves that have rust like you can the BS leaves. I just found an article about rust and 'Tebuconazole'. This chemical is only systemic and does NOT kill spores on contact.

I am going to be 'carefully' removing and discarding the rusted leaves. And I certainly hope the the one shot of Bayer will do the trick. But if not, I will have to use the dread substance again. I used it twice last year for something that I found later to NOT be BS. But I don't wan't to use it any more than absolutely necessary.

Thanks again all,

andreark