22,153 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
I'd wait. The forsysthia is still blooming, so it is still early. It will probably all be cut down anyway, but waiting will give you a clearer idea of what to do.
Once upon a time, I did some late fall pruning. Something happened, and I didn't get the clippings all picked up. When I found them the next spring, they were still green and flexible.
You don't have to cut it all off at once. Take off anything you know is dead now and give them a couple more weeks to see what may start to bud out and then take off the rest. I usually end up having to do this every year because on the first round I tend to err on the side of caution and leave things that look iffy. Then once it gets warmer and they start to really grow I can see that they need further pruning and where they need to get cut back more.
Thanks for all the advice and explaining!!
Buford...what is the difference between grafted and rooted and how can you tell which is which?? Is there an easy was to tell at the store before I buy them what is what?? And is grafted or rooted easier to grow?? I just started out last fall with flowers and have went crazy with roses this year. So happy thoughts!! This rose is right by my steps up to my front porch and it faces south east ish, does that matter?? There are no trees in my yard, and the girl next door does have a large mature tree so I'm trying to figure out if it got enough sun there?? My other rose I planted last year is about 4 feet away on the other side and is looking green and healthy. Also I did spray them both last year with sevin spray because I think some sort of beetle started eating them and when I took some leaves to the store they said the holes in the leaves looked like japenese beetle maybe?? I'm just trying to figure out what I could of done wrong and that way I don't loose another if I plant it in the same exact spot.
Thanks for baring with me and all the info. I washed the cutters last night and in a few minutes I will go out and slowly cut a cane or two just to see if it looks like what hoovb said. I'm thinking it might be a goner as well because my other one has pretty leaves and green and red while this is just some brown sticks :(
I agree, do what hoov suggests. And it wouldn't hurt to wait a bit either. In zone 5 I'm betting it's still been pretty cold there and the soil hasn't warmed up enough yet to kick start the rose into growing.
It isn't a problem to prune in stages. Take off the really obviously dead stuff at the top. Wait a couple weeks and trim some more. Then wait a couple more weeks and see if the bud eyes are beginning to swell. Once you see those you can tell just how far down you'll need to prune.
If you have to cut those canes off completely that still doesn't mean the roses is dead. I have several out there that are pretty much just stumps but I can see there is new growth starting to come from the graft area at the base. I think this is a year where a lot of my roses will get to completely "rejuvenate", lol!
I realize this is quite climate specific, but I agree with you Kate about not calling Eden "disease resistant". While it did appear to resist mildew to a decent extent, black spot was an issue and the thing rusts here like an old iron skillet. At the beach, even the moldy flower petals rusted unless routinely sprayed. It CAN be drop dead gorgeous...if you can find the right climate and situation for it. I haven't found that yet. I've also never encountered one which could even remotely be considered "lower prickle count", much less "thornless". Kim
Second Kim on the rejection of thornless or lower prickle count as accurate descriptions of Eden, at least as I experienced it here in the Midwest.
I don't have the mildew and rust problems, but anyone with Kim's environment, take note. As far as BS, I'd rank Eden, here in the Midwest, as slightly above average BS-resistance. Not terrible, but not awfully good either.
But those gorgeous blooms!
Kate
Oooh, Vlatva looks gorgeous, and I see that Bierkreek offers it,too;I've ordered from them in the past. Also FilRoses may be an option; I've only ordered from companies that have several roses that I want,to save on shipping,and I seem to remember that their catalogue has a few others that interest me....bart
I wish I had my rose list handy as there are many Austins that I have grown for years in my NS gardens. I just moved to a new location in NS but plan on digging out or replacing some of the best and oldest Austins that have survived the wind and salt spray and lack of snow in winter.
James Galaway was the first to come to mind as he is one of the biggest and most prolific of all of the Austins that I have grown. Charlotte, Teasing Georgia, Tradescant, Eglantyne, Crown Princess Margarete, The Dark Lady, Claire Rose, Alnwick Rose, Scepter'd Isle or just a few that pop in my mind as I type. I have over 100 roses in my old garden and had up to 235 in my previous one. I do not spray except for some dormant oil in the spring. I feed them alfalfa tea twice in the summer, seems to be their favorite food.
I hope you find some that perform well in your area as they are wonderful roses.
valerie
Hello again, thanks so much for all the suggestions. I expect my two Albas from Cornhill to arrive by Monday, mailed last Monday apparently, but still not at my post office. Today I get the holes dug. I am loving the pictures of Polareis, and Wild Edric seems to be mentioned often. I'll see how these two, Queen of Denmark and Maiden's Blush, do first, if they don't do well, I'll probably call it a day for roses here, other than the rugosas I already have in the front.. just not as crazy over them as I was my Austins. I don't know if I can make peace with the once-blooming properties of the Albas either, but shall see. Happy gardening season, all. :D
I agree with Catsrose. When I changed from a spray to no spray, I ended up losing many beautiful roses. Many of the popular Buck roses needed spray. The worst for me are the ones that are unique in their beauty because they may have special blends of color. I recall Distant Drums, Frontier Twirl, and others with unique blends that I shovel pruned.
I had a theme of red and white in the front of my house. Prairie Star had to go. Europeana, Veterans Honor, Chrysler Emperior, Mister Lincoln, and many others needed to go.
Blackspot was a huge problem for me, but also the heat was a problem, and I live north of you. Some blow so fast in the heat that they are not fun to grow. I do no remember the names.
Many of us here also post on the Antique Forum where we discuss what works for us. I understand that you are asking what does not work. I have had bad luck with David Austin roses also.
Good luck. I hope this helps.
Sammy
I can vouch for: John Davis, John Cabot and William Baffin. They are all very hardy, ferocious (thorny) 10 feet climbers in my garden. I love the Kordes climbers - I have "Rosarium Uetersen", but it's more like a large shrub to 6 feet. I also have a huge climber that I believe is called, "That's Jazz" and it's over 9 feet tall. Other climbers in my yard that have only grown to 6-7 feet are:Darlow's Engima, Ramblin' Red and Colette. Hope this helps.
I am looking for two climbing roses...one for over an arbor in the entry to my yard and one is for a pergola in my yard. I am in z6 (MA) and I am looking for as disease resistant a rose as I can get cuz I won't be spraying them. I really love Eden, but I was told she isn't a repeat bloomer and can be susceptible to rust (or some other nasty). Stinks cuz I love that kind of rose. I was also looking a Zephrine Dourhin cuz she is supposed to be thornless, but I think she may get too big. I like Jasmina & Renae also. I just would like a rose that can grow well w/o spraying and that flowers a lot without having crazy thorns or trying to eat my arbor. Should I rub a lamp? Lol.
Also, I have been scouring for Pretty Jessica and only found her "banded". I am a newbie & have no idea what that means. Anyone have an idea? Ty in advance
Carol, how many bloom cycles do you usually get per growing season? Good luck with your new ones.What did you get? Here's you something to laugh at: today I finally broke down and bought another Blue Girl! The bush looked sooo good... I sp'd 2 last year...just love those stingy blooms.
I don't think it's available in N. Amer. at all. Looks lovely!
Here is a link that might be useful: Amandine Chanel at HMF
Andreark,
I planted a Munstead Wood from Austin, bare-root, this year and had a short but lovely flush. I mean short -- we're talking two weeks.
I talked to a gal who gave a talk on Austins this past weekend at Otto & Sons Rose Days,and she said, "Munstead Wood is not a particularly vigorous rose." I don't mind if the bush stays small -- it's supposed to, and besides it's in a container -- but I sure would like more flowers.
Darcey Bussell, which I bought in a 3-gallon, has been blooming for 3 weeks with no sign of stopping, and its fragrance is almost as nice as Munstead's.
Oh and by the way, my Falstaffs (I have 2) haven't flowered once this year. Not once. They do get partial afternoon shade -- are yours in full sun?
Thanks,
Sylvia
Andrea--so happy to hear that Munstead Wood came through. Although the pics of the lighter colored MWs were quite attractive, let's face it--what we really adore about MW is its dark moody but glowing shades. It will be interesting to hear whether other owners of MW who complained about lighter initial colors on it discovered the darker shades also as the rose matured.
My MW, planted in the garden, is not a weakling, but in fact quite vigorous for a shorter plant--and was quite prolific last summer. Hasn't bloomed yet this year--just a couple blooms on Home Run so far.
Enjoy your MW--one of the loveliest Austins in my garden and I hope in yours.
Kate
This post was edited by dublinbay on Fri, May 2, 14 at 22:12
Cut off the brown and black canes--all the way to the ground if needed. If the inside/center of the cane is white, you are back to healthy cane. If there is no white center, just cut back to soil level. Then feed and water the rose and stand back and watch the beautiful red leaves at the base start growing like crazy and turning green and putting out buds and finally gorgeous blooms. The only difference is that the rose may be a bit shorter this year--but should make up the difference by next year.
You are panicking needlessly. That red stuff is cause for celebration--a wonderful new rose is forming!
A month from now report back--with pics, if possible! : )
Kate
It's very normal in cold climates to have further die back in the spring after the first pruning. Sometimes the cane may look green and healthy so we leave it thinking it's OK. But there has already been some freeze damage to the cells and so it slowly turns dark and dies off and needs to be pruned off. You have lots of healthy looking new growth there so there's no cause for alarm. Your roses will be fine.
As for the black spot. Your pruners have nothing to do with it. It's out there, everywhere! In the soil, in the air on the plants, it's there. Whether you clean your pruners between cuts or not if you're in a black spot area you'll have it. Unless you spray religiously.
Cleaning the pruners is more for reducing the spread of other transmittable diseases such as gall, canker and rose rosette disease. I used to do it faithfully but it's a total pain in the butt so I don't do it at all now unless I'm cutting something out because it's diseased and I can see it. I haven't noticed any big difference in the occurrence of any problems as a result.