22,795 Garden Web Discussions | Roses

That could be Seil and Michaelg. I have another type of rose bush planted in between the two Carefree Sunshines and it is blooming up a storm. I have flowers in that area but not to close that they would interfere with either CS and the flowers are growing and blooming good also.

I'll try to be patient...lol.... Thanks!

Most of the bands I've planted bloomed very well the second year so it threw me off base when these two are hardly blooming at all...

This post was edited by jim1961 on Mon, Jul 7, 14 at 17:14

I just realized after looking on HMF at my Carefree Sunshine pictures that I planted both our CS mid to latter July of 2013... So they were planted later than I thought.

The red is beautiful, Seil. Kate, I love you red, white, and blue. How festive!

Sammy

So beautiful, Kate!

MordenMan has listed most of my suggestions of mannerly Kordes FT roses - Elegant and Floral particularly. In my yard, Solero Vigorosa stays low and is a constant bloomer but you'd need a BIG pot, as she wants to grow very wide. It's probably 18" tall and 6 feet wide, and wants to be more if I'd let it.

Another option that has stayed low for me is Cream Flower Circus. It's around 2-3 feet tall and no more than the same amount wide. Seems like the light colored Kordes floris are the more mannerly sized ones.

Cynthia

Nippstress, thanks for the answer.

Elegant and Floral are actually my two favorite choices
for my deck 'pot city'. The pots are all 24 gallon which is
a large pot. Kosmos is just as pleased as punch with
this location and size of pot.

I will order this in September.

Thanks a bunch again,

andreark

You did fine. If you're concerned just mulch it deeper for winter. Just so you know, it's perfectly OK to bury some of the cane when you plant. It won't harm the rose.

Thanks seil. I remember when I "inherited" about 12 roses all together when we bought our home almost 22 years ago. Some of the 'originals' remain, and many we have planted ourselves over the years. It seemed over the years that in Wisconsin--the rose people (as I call them) would change their minds every few years on whether to bury the bud union/graft or leave it exposed or partially exposed. First it was bury completely due to our extreme winters at times, then don't bury....arghhhh. Last I heard, it was supposed to be completely buried, but I'm glad it looks okay to you--cuz as you could hopefully see by the pic--there was no way I could bury it completely without having to cut off a number of healthy canes growing from the union or trying to bury the canes too. Thanks!

I got it last year and grew it in a pot. The flowers were on the small to medium size, but they had a nice color. It actually did reasonably well in the pot. It is not what would be considered an exhibition rose for rose shows, but it does put on a good show in the yard. Below is a picture of what it did look like growing in the pot.

Maybe this will give you an idea what to expect.

I got a bareroot from Spring hill of this one and i love it. The blooms are good sized, reddish orange buds that open up orange and fade pinkish,yellow, orange. So far so good, i just planted it this spring and it is really taking off here in Minnesota

In order to load more than one photo in a single post you have to upload your photos to a host site like Photobucket. Then you can copy the "html" codes from Photobucket and paste them in your post here.

Your Love Song pictures are quite pretty. Thanks for the look. If I have space, I might add this one.

New Dawn (10' to 20') is an everblooming sport of Dr, Van Fleet Height of (15' to 20'). As such it is not expected to have the vigor of Dr. Van Fleet.

Over the years it appears that some New Dawns are more like Dr. Van Fleet.

You may want to try Awakening (8' to 14') , a more controllable sport of New Dawn.

The numbers presented are from Help-Me-Find.

Weeell, I don't know about 'Awakening' being more controllable than 'New Dawn.' Maybe I have an exceptionally vigorous clone, but mine is the proverbial thorny monster. I did what catsrose suggests, and transplanted mine to the back fence line to discourage incursions from neighbors I don't want to know.

I love the rescue story. Thanks for including it in your post. What a nice way to receive roses from your husband.

It was a nice surprise. This rose is special to me. Thanks for reading it, seil and jasminerose4u. I'll let him know what you said.

Uhh thanks!!! I was thinking it might be rust but I thought it should be primarily yellow, not blackish...I guess the black is just oxidised yellow.

Yes, it's rust.

No, the black isn't oxidized yellow. In fact, the black is even worst. If you had a microscope, you'd see that the black are larger spores (when compared in size to the yellow spores also on the underside of leaves.) The black spores look like two wizard's hats joined at the base. What makes the black spores worse is that those are where the disease overwinters and will be the source of the disease next year.

I would also like a clarification on what Bayer product you are using. All-in-one, or 2-in-one, or 3-in-one? Most of those products already have a fungicide in them (for blackspot) so I'm not sure why you are also using neem oil. Does it do something else?

For a good Bayer fungicide without all the waste and excesses promoted by the all-in-one type products, use Bayer Garden Disease Control for Roses, Flowers, and Shrubs. You will also need to buy some inexpensive spraying equipment from a place like Home Depot.

Those all-in-one Bayer products also have insecticides in them. Most posters on this forum avoid those insecticides. If you have an insect problem, take pics and show them to us and we may be able to suggest solutions that do not involved insecticides (that can also kill bees and other good critters).

Did you check on how resistant to blackspot those roses were before you ordered them? Disease-magnets can be found in practically every category of roses. Sometimes it takes some serious research to come up with disease-resistant roses in each of your categories you want for your garden. Even then, depending on the disease pressures in your region (whatever it is), you might still need to spray a fungicide occasionally.

Yes, it can take several years for roses to settle in and begin to really mature.

Kate

What kind of roses did you plant? If they are Rugosas or have a lot of that species in them, spraying anything but water won't be a good idea.

:-)

~Christopher

Its only been in the ground a month. you have to give it time to put down roots. Keep watering well. It will stop rocking once the roots have branches out.

Thank you Buford. That was encouraging, kind of thought that the roots aren't established yet cuz of the only a month ago planting of it.

Having lost almost all of my climbers to RRV over the years, (the most recent went this Tuesday), I'm left with one lone Aloha. I have an arch and originally had one on each side trained to go over it. Aloha is a shorter grower and it works quite well on the 8 foot arch never overwhelming it as some climbers can do. Now I don't do ladders anymore so I maintain the lone survivor as a tall shrub. This last Aloha has been in the ground since around 1988 and even with RMV (rose mosaic virus) it's still prolific and winter hardy. It's only fault is the the buds as they first begin to unfurl open up in the center and if we have rain, it can collect in the centers causing them to rot out. It has had better then average disease resistance for me too....Coincidently there is a daylily called Pink Aloha that is drop dead gorgeous. A good name for a rose apparently as well as a daylily....Maryl

Maryl - Thank you for sharing about your Aloha. That daylily is gorgeous!

I had more than I've had in previous years. I hope that isn't a trend. But it was still manageable. They seem to love certain roses, so I would check those and was able to send most of them to JB heaven (or hell).

So far, I don't have JBs, but we do have Chilli Thrips, which can ouright kill the rose, not just gobble up blooms.