21,402 Garden Web Discussions | Roses

Further clarification:
There were two truths in the "It Ain't True" fun.
It is true that Roses Unlimited has a 96% customer satisfaction rating.
(And really, does anyone not understand what that means?) Although I don't participate in such surveys, I completely agree. So my vote would help take the percentage HIGHER.
It is also true that Roses Unlimited is regularly listed on the Watchdog Top 5 list for roses.
This means they are in the Top 5 most highly regarded sources in their specialty. I also agree that this recognition is well deserved.

Thanks for clarifying, Sandandsun. You're right that I didn't catch the humor the first time around, though I can see it now that you point it out. Sometimes the printed word doesn't carry those nuances of meaning as easily (we need an emoticon for "eye roll" or "wink wink" I guess). Anyway, I figured you had good things to say about RU and I'm glad at least Susan caught the humor on the first bounce.
I like your confirmation of the two truths, since they are such a good company. In case newbies log into this, they will hear a clear vote of approval from this thread. It never hurts to err on the cautious side out here on the web.
Cynthia

Roderick, just remembered that there is a yellow Carefree Sunshine that comes from the same breeder and is very disease resistant--looks kind of like the Sunny Knock Out. I don't know much about it--maybe it isn't quite tall enough for your purposes--not sure. You might check it out below and post a query here if you are interested.
Kate
Here is a link that might be useful: Carefree Sunshine at helpmefind.com

My two Julia Child roses are 6 X 6 feet. I can't believe those puny size predictions even in zone 6. In this pic, the smaller rose down in front is Bernstein-Rose, about the predicted size of JC. The actual Julias are farther up the sidewalk. You can see the size difference easily. Diane


I don't have any full sun area's in my yard, but I have my roses in as much sun as I have. Each bush gets several hours a day except for Country Dancer.
I bought Country Dancer because it was was supposed to do well in shade, but so far mine hasn't bloomed a lot.
This is probably the problem since they aren't too close together and are definitely not over fertilized.

Roses are sun-lovers--usually need at least 6 hours of sun a day. If you don't really have much sun, I'd recommend you switch over to hydrangeas--they are gorgeous and usually like part sun/part shade to nearly full shade.
Definitely, deprived of sun, most roses will be weaker and more spindly and bloom less and probably get more bs disease. The roses that "tolerate" shade usually still need at least 4 hours of direct sun--but "tolerate" does not mean they will thrive in that area--just that they will survive.
Good luck.
Kate


Good Morning Zidane,
The import of plant material into Canada is currently reglulated by the Canadian Food Inspection Agency's Plant Protection Division (CFIA). I believe a decision was just recently made by the Canadian government to transfer Plant Protection responsibilities back to Agriculture Canada, but I'm not certain when that will happen.
Your best plan of attack would be to contact the Oregon Department of Agriculture and tell them what you wish to do. ODA will be the ones who inspect your roses and provide you with the required Phytosanitary Certificate for export to Canada. They will also know what the certification requirents are and what the Phyto must attest to.
Once you have things organized with ODA, I would suggest that you contact the CFIA in Vancouver and discuss things with a Program Officer with the Plant Protection Program in that office.
When you are ready to move the plants to Canada, you will have to present them and the Phytosanitary Certificate to a Canadian Border Services Officer. They may choose to hold them for inspection by CFIA at the border, or more likely let you move them through for inspection by CFIA at destination.
The good news is that no Import Permit is required between Canada and the U.S. I import roses from Oregon and other U.S. nurseries often.
The CFIA has an online web system called the "Automated Import Reference System" (AIRS). As with all things scientific regulated by governments, plant import requirements are complex. AIRS allows you to access requirements for specific species and types of plants from various places and determine admissibility and import requirements. I have inputed a search for roses, with soil from Oregon to be imported into British Columbia for planting. The result is pasted below:
______________________________
Recommendations to CBSA/Documentation and Registration Requirements
Refer to CFIA-NISC(must be accompanied by the following documents\registrations):•Phytosanitary Certificate
Importer / Broker Instructions
DOCUMENTATION INSTRUCTIONS
PHYTOSANITARY CERTIFICATE
- Obtain from Country of Export prior to importation.
CONDITIONS OF IMPORT
The Phytosanitary Certificate must accompany the shipment.
The material must be certified free from Columbia Root Knot Nematode (MELOIDOGYNE CHITWOODI).
1)The phytosanitary certificate must bear one of the following additional declarations:
"The material was produced and prepared for export in accordance with the conditions of entry specified in Quarantine Directive 82-01 of February 1, 1982."
or
"The soil originated in an area in which, on the basis of official surveys, Meloidogyne chitwoodi does not occur."
Requirements for European brown garden snail (Cornu aspersum, syn. Helix aspersa):
The Phytosanitary Certificate must list the following additional declaration: "The plants in this consignment were inspected and found to be free of European brown garden snail (Helix aspersa/Cornu aspersum)."
1)The material must be certified free from European brown garden snail (HELIX ASPERSA).
The phytosanitary certificate must bear one of the following additional declarations:
"The soil originated in an area in which, on the basis of official surveys, Helix aspersa does not occur."
OR
"Material is free of European brown garden snail (HELIX ASPERSA)."
1)Requirements for Japanese beetle (Popillia japonica):
The shipment must be accompanied by a Phytosanitary Certificate indicating the state of origin, OR
a U.S. Nursery Certification Program Phytosanitary Certificate OR
Shipping documents showing a U.S. Greenhouse Certification Program label.
A Phytosanitary Certificate is required to accompany the consignment, containing the following Additional Declaration:
"This shipment conforms to 7 CFR 301.92 which regulates the movement of nursery stock for Phytophthora ramorum from the States of California, Oregon, and Washington." OR
"The soil originated in a production site in which, on the basis of official surveys, Phytophthora ramorum is not known to occur."
---------------------------------------------------------
Moving your roses across the border should be relatively stress free, provided you do you homework with ODA and the CFIA. Good luck.
Cheers, Rick

I've seen gall in 4 roses here. Three came from the same source. All probably came with the disease. None of the four actually got into the soil. I removed them all and put them in the trash, and I do not regret having done so.
As to whether or how to re-hab the soil . . .
Since I never had to do it, I never studied HOW to do it. There are chemicals designed for that purpose. I haven't used them, so I'm no authority.
I think I would remove at least some soil, do everything I could to sterilize what remained, and let the hole lie fallow as suggested. Plant, oh, salvia there. ?Nasturtiums?
I can, however, assure HenrylnCT that Gall DOES show up in roses grown in SoCal.
Jeri

Dear all, what a wonderful bunch you are.
I have digested everything you have written. And I hope that you all noticed also, that there are many aspects of a gall problem, and also a number of different types of galls.
I called Regan Nursery and they INSISTED that I bring the rose back. They will not only give me a new one, but their rosarian, Victoria, wanted to look at it and help me find a bactericide to drench the soil. This has proven to be difficult. After hours on the web, I found several that had good referrals, from universities primarily. The problem is that only professionals can buy them. I think Regan's will help.
The reason that I have decided that it is a bacterial type infection and a bad one, is that (reading until my eyes watered) , I found that the rate at which this gall grew was much faster than the other two types. Also the bottom 1/3 to 1/2 of the plant seems to be dying. Leaves were affected first, now the canes are getting dark brown.
When I told this to Victoria, before telling her what I had ascertained, she immediately said "I'm sure that you only planted that rose 6 or 7 months ago, am I right?" I told her she was right. She asked how long the gall had been there, and I told her it wasn't there long, I would have noticed it sooner. She then said "Yank that thing out quickly and remove as much of the soil as possible" You have a very virulent type of bacteria to have grown so quickly and to be destroying the plant so fast. She also said that some types are not so dangerous and grow very slowly. And some types are from wasps.
So, as it turns out, you are all correct in different ways.
NOW, if anyone knows a good bactericide that I can purchase online, I would certainly be grateful.....I am anyway.
Please send my your good wishes not to have destroyed my beautiful babies. (Mushy, I know)
Thanks, all my fine and ROSY friends,
andrea

Not all roses have one stable color. "The color" of this rose is evidently different at different times in different climates. This is not unusual with older roses at all - the tea roses are famous for having variable colors. I have one that is sometimes pale yellow, sometimes pale pink, and most of the time buff with a brick color on the back of the petals.
Cloud Nine is a modern hybrid tea, so one would assume that it would have ONE color, but from the pics on HMF it is a bit variable. If you really don't like the coral pink color, I would choose a different rose.
Jackie

Wow. I am so happy to read this post! I have exactly the same problem. Did a sympathy purchase from Vintage this past summer. Was hoping to get Gene Boerner floribunda. My garden theme is also pink and white. So you can just imagine my surprise when this salmon red single petalled rose emerged. Regrettably, I was not as enthusiastic as you were. I sent an email including a picture of the rose and got no reply. I did not push for a refund because I understood the dire nature of the task that was facing Vintage this year. My plan was to give away the offender. However, in the Fall when another bud came up I fell in love with the runt. I am so pleased that I can now give her a name. I too think it is Poppy. I know she will contrast with my pink and white beauties, but perhaps I was beginning to get too monochromatic . So my new darling Poppy has a home here in North Texas. The other flip side to the "mistake " purchase is that I have never seen this rose growing in North Texas. So I'm happy to start a trend. Thank you Vintage and thank you Nippstress for sharing!

Cool - glad to be helpful, shopshops! If we both got the same substitution, there must have been an error somewhere earlier in the propagation process, so they honestly thought they were sending us Gene Boerner once they had the rose band growing at Vintage. It's good of you to be patient with Vintage since they've been down to bare bones staff for some time.
I agree that it's kind of fun to be "forced" to try something out of my comfort zone every now and then. Like you, I thought it would contrast with the pinks but it's really more of an accent plant among the more delicate colors. Since I also have burgundy roses in that bed for depth and lots of picotee or striped colors, Poppy seems to echo the darker colors without clashing. Surprising how well a little judicious contrast can liven up a bed, eh?
Anyway, glad to help and here's to expanding the trends for gardening in our districts!
Cynthia

I was just going to post the same link! I feel like a dope, but didn't realize he was a Wisconsinite...and a fellow Badger. I haven't paid much attention to the biographies of hybridizers. I don't have an Knock Outs personally, but my neighbor's always look nice.

No additives here. The native soil is heavy, red clay but the house is thirty years old. Three decades of mulch has created loose planting beds. A couple of years ago, the termite man said 'no mulch around the foundation' but that's okay because the soil is improved now.

I had the same thought seil had - how about a fence around several roses?
I cage all of our baby roses, but then take off the cages when the roses are big enough not to be killed by some grazing. Our deer are not as hungry as yours - they mostly just nibble. But, they are sneaky about getting through cages! I actually saw a small but not tiny fawn sticking its smaller nuzzle through a cage and grazing on the rose inside.
One time at my MIL's house, in the middle of the night she heard a horrible racket in the back yard that woke her up. Armed with a flashlight, she saw a large (for us) buck running around her patio with a cage caught in its antlers. It was smashing the cage against everything, and eventually the cage fell off and we found it the next morning. My DH then bulit a tall fence all around his mother's back yard, and that worked.
Jackie

I'm not worried about the deer killing the roses. I've had about 15 bushes unprotected for over 20 years. The problem is except for the climbers and a few tall bushes they eat almost all the buds and stunt the growth of the bushes. Rose bushes without abundant flowers is not an option.
Fencing isn't an option. I was fortunate to convince my wife to allow cages. Cages are shorter then fences, because they only need to stop grazing, not entry. Cages are temporary and easily removeable. A fence is a more permanent structure and my roses are in the front of the house and a fence would not be attractive.
My backyard is too shady for roses and the one other section that has sun, a fence would block the view of the mountain. Given another property, I would fence.


Nice spirit of adventure, but just so you know, you might get bigger roses than the parents. One of my favorite minis has a great big rosebush as her mama. You might like to get a sweet chariot and collect your own. That rose sets seeds very well.

the thing is that roundup is made up of different chemicals than the spray used in my neighborhood. I'm not sure if both would have the same effect on foliage.
I would really prefer that my Brother Cadfael was affected by a temporary event and there was hope for survival.
Here is a link that might be useful: roundup ingredients

Brother Cadfael's growth looks like rosette disease. If there is any recurrence, you should remove the plant immediately and bag it.
I never heard of insecticide causing growth like that, and I think you can dismiss that possibility.
Sumithrin is rated as having low toxicity to birds and mammals. It is highly toxic to aquatic life.
Here is a link that might be useful: sumithrin

I am sure one day,roses would be engineered to bloom 4 seasons, glow in the dark, totally bullet proof and have all the attributes that one' heart desires. But I don't look forward to those roses. I garden because I enjoy being connected with simple, but essential things missing from my work like (sun, rain, dirt, sweat) as well as a bit of history and personalities of our plants. For gardenning, I will stay low tech and, yes, I find glowing roses disturbing.
For those who are M. Atwood fans, didn't she write about roses that glow in the dark in Year of the Flood?





Andrea, just in case you are interested in another option for dealing with Agrobacterium tumefaciens, I'm posting the link below, which is basically suggesting rotating a resistant species in the area where the galled plant was. According to the article at the link, "Growing a nonsusceptible crop, such as grass, for three years can essentially eliminate the bacteria from the soil".
Melissa
Here is a link that might be useful: Virginia Exten., Crown Gall of Woody Ornamentals
Thanks Tessiess,
I've seen that option mentioned. Actually at that very site. That site suggested letting the soil 'rest' for a few years. I really like university sites. The problem is that it's a raised bed with only roses. It's probably the best option for the soil. But it wouldn't look great with 7 roses and a bunch of pansies. (a joke, of course)
The spot is the furthest back in my yard and is behind other roses The pot would therefore be 'hidden' from view.
Thanks so much for answering,
andrea