22,796 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
I would also like a clarification on what Bayer product you are using. All-in-one, or 2-in-one, or 3-in-one? Most of those products already have a fungicide in them (for blackspot) so I'm not sure why you are also using neem oil. Does it do something else?
For a good Bayer fungicide without all the waste and excesses promoted by the all-in-one type products, use Bayer Garden Disease Control for Roses, Flowers, and Shrubs. You will also need to buy some inexpensive spraying equipment from a place like Home Depot.
Those all-in-one Bayer products also have insecticides in them. Most posters on this forum avoid those insecticides. If you have an insect problem, take pics and show them to us and we may be able to suggest solutions that do not involved insecticides (that can also kill bees and other good critters).
Did you check on how resistant to blackspot those roses were before you ordered them? Disease-magnets can be found in practically every category of roses. Sometimes it takes some serious research to come up with disease-resistant roses in each of your categories you want for your garden. Even then, depending on the disease pressures in your region (whatever it is), you might still need to spray a fungicide occasionally.
Yes, it can take several years for roses to settle in and begin to really mature.
Kate
Having lost almost all of my climbers to RRV over the years, (the most recent went this Tuesday), I'm left with one lone Aloha. I have an arch and originally had one on each side trained to go over it. Aloha is a shorter grower and it works quite well on the 8 foot arch never overwhelming it as some climbers can do. Now I don't do ladders anymore so I maintain the lone survivor as a tall shrub. This last Aloha has been in the ground since around 1988 and even with RMV (rose mosaic virus) it's still prolific and winter hardy. It's only fault is the the buds as they first begin to unfurl open up in the center and if we have rain, it can collect in the centers causing them to rot out. It has had better then average disease resistance for me too....Coincidently there is a daylily called Pink Aloha that is drop dead gorgeous. A good name for a rose apparently as well as a daylily....Maryl
Run do not walk to "www.vintagegardens.com". This is the site of the no longer active Vintage Gardens nursery. Just click on "roses", and you will see a list of classes. Click on any class, and you will see a list of roses (probably saying "no longer available", as the nursery is closed). Most of the roses have pictures. This website is still operating as of today, but may be gone soon - I understand that the non-profit which has rescued the collection plans on having their own web site, but I don't know if all of the rose info is on it yet. Thus, the recommendation to look at it immediately.
VG sells (which they may still be doing right now) a fabulous catalogue of roses, "Vintage Gardens Complete Catalogue of Antique and Extraordinary Roses". It is arranged by class, and includes many older hybrid teas and other "modern" roses as well as antiques.
Jackie
Thanks everyone! They are concrete pavers and the water gets in between them (hence my weeds) and the rose has about 3 feet (a clematis on each side which may have been dumb) and about 18 inches width. Just in the short time since I posted these pics it has put up a lot of bright green growth towards the top. I just cut out a huge dead cane and supported the main cane with a pole. I will probably go and buy an arch shaped trellis to train it on but they are so dang expensive. The Blaze Improved next to it has, well, improved. It has put up new buds and green at the top as well. I see a hole next to it from some critter so I hope it won't hurt the rose. Dang critters. The blaze was transplanted in the middle of summer last year by necessity so I knew it would suffer but it looks awful. I'm guessing it will look much better next year.
The reason I posted is because I'm awful with roses (I have 100 daylilies that look fabulous) so I dared to buy some easy ones and I just want to make sure I'm doing all I can for it.
Thanks again everyone!
Yeah, the jury's still out for RdV in my garden...in spite of it's bloom problems, it seems to be quite vigorous as a plant. I dug mine up to try to figure out why it couldn't produce decent blooms in spite of being so large and basically vigorous, and found that the soil in which the roots were "growing" was worthless, powdery SAND- like decayed potting soil. The plant just SLIPPED OUT of that stuff, even though it'd been there 4 plus years. Enough to kill many a rose...instead,RdV 's onlt real symptom was the inability to produce good quality flowers! We shall see....bart
They both look like hybrid teas so they should rebloom this summer for you. Take lots of pictures of the buds and every stage of bloom. That will help to ID them.
In the mean time keep them watered and fertilized and healthy. I wouldn't prune them at all, just dead head the spent blooms, and give them a chance to grow back some size. When they get a little larger you could do as anenemity suggest and take some cuttings to root.
Uhh thanks!!! I was thinking it might be rust but I thought it should be primarily yellow, not blackish...I guess the black is just oxidised yellow.
Yes, it's rust.
No, the black isn't oxidized yellow. In fact, the black is even worst. If you had a microscope, you'd see that the black are larger spores (when compared in size to the yellow spores also on the underside of leaves.) The black spores look like two wizard's hats joined at the base. What makes the black spores worse is that those are where the disease overwinters and will be the source of the disease next year.