21,402 Garden Web Discussions | Roses

How cold is a "hard freeze" in your area? It was cold enough here last night that the water in my birdbath froze, but all the roses in bloom still looked more than half way decent today.
Roses can take quite a bit of cold--into the high 20s, like 27-28 degrees.
If I were worried, I might grab a couple handfuls of oak leaves (blown in from my neighbors' yards) and put them around the base of the rose bush. In fact, with 15 Austins all only a few weeks in the ground, I think I'd do that to all of them for sure.
Good luck.
Kate


Okay, this is just so sad. Seeing posts from Illinois with people losing roses to rrd, sad for rose lovers every where. I had already learned of rrd from reading here so when I saw that first bad cane some 15 years ago I felt like vomiting. Standing staring at it, wishing it wasn't but it was rrd. Garden was hit very hard that year losing many, many roses. Still had loses for another two years but nothing since. I also diversified after that bring in clematis and many daylilies. I absolutely need to learn how to root roses. All of mine are own root and some special to me can no longer be purchased own root. Easter Basket whlle not a big deal rose to most is just beautiful to me can't imagine being without her and no longer available own root. Last deadly virus to strike here is cucumber mosaic virus. Killed my ligularias. Vectored by the fuzzy white leaf hopper. Methods of spread (among others) hand to plant contact. Are you kidding me now sterilizing pruners between plants isn't enough. I'll always garden so what will be shall be. Pat


I say, "give it a try". When I moved from S.E. FL. to the N.E. GA. mountains I brought 17 roses with me. All on fortuniana rootstock. I was told they would all die. The first winter up here was COLD (5,7, and many teens with strong winds). I lost 5 roses that winter but the rest are still going strong after 5+ yrs. All you can do is give it a shot. Just winter protect them the best you can.


This might be a little late considering the thread is from way back in April. I had the same question and contacted Dewar via email. They responded and told me that Dr. Huey is the primary rootstock they use. I have two Roses purchased from Lowe's that came from Dewar (Olympiad and New Year). They seem to be doing well in containers.
This post was edited by jamesthepeach on Mon, Nov 11, 13 at 23:12


Hah! I had to laff. Campanula, there is a rose named MARGARET THATCHER that I would LOVE to have. It's a Japanese bred Fl that's a beautiful pink and white stripe. I also see there's a Kordes rose with several names including Margaret Thatcher. It goes by FLAMINGO here. (I think I might even have it LOL)
BULLS EYE is a lovely thing. The only fault I see in it is how it changes color so friggin' fast. Goes from lt peachy-yellow to pale pink in just a few hours after opening.


Seil and Henry,
Also missing is how many tried removal at first sighting. Most people waffle.
And unsaid is the class/classes of roses that the folks grow. From speaking to that group, I'd guess that the majority grow modern roses because they are rose show centric. I've had little luck saving Hybrid Teas and Floribundas but very good luck saving older roses and shrub roses.
Unfortunately there's nothing in the scientific (or otherwise) rose literature about basic differences in rose classes, pretty much you either read about exterior appearances or differences at the genetic level.

Potassium silicate is the one most often mentioned.
See Mike Rivers post (and others) in the thread linked to below:
http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/roses/msg030010308429.html
Here is a link that might be useful: earlier silicate thread

The other day I was watching a Nature Channel TV program. Apparently there was (is) a valley near Yellowstone Park where the grass has a high concentration of silicates. Over the centuries the buffalo have learned to avoid that valley (unless near starvation) as the grass very quickly wears down their teeth. I tried Googling the information but apparently did not find the correct combination to get a hit.


I grow them both in England and despite having small flaws, they are wonderful roses, worth cosseting. True, Madame Gregoire does not repeat but comes early into bloom which continues, at a turbo charged rate for 6 weeks. No deadheading needed because it will make enormous globular heps, easily larger than rugosa heps, with a pale orange colouring perfectly suited to autumn. The fresh green foliage is also heartbreakingly beautiful and the blooms have a fragrance reminiscent of sweet peas.
Zephirine is altogether a bit more problematic in that it tends to suffer terribly from powdery mildew....which can be greatly alleviated without spraying by careful siting. It hates being planted against a wall but performs far better on a chainlink or post and rail fence - ventilation is very key for this rose, as is ensuring sufficient moisture at the root zone (but doesn't all of Texas have irrigation set-ups?). A strict pruning regime with ruthless thinning and rotating the long green canes, cutting every lateral hard to within a bud or 2, maintains an open airflow and encourages a great spring flush (although the second flush occurs at the ends of the much longer laterals and has to be regarded as an extra rather than a given spectacle. A famously fragrant rose.

For me, every year in the rose garden is a good year. I learn something new all the time in my garden. Some stuff I'm not to wild about but most of the time my roses make me smile. Neighbors and visitors have told me I have the finest rose garden in N.E. GA. (yeah, right). I dought that but if they leave happy and I have encoraged them about how easy it is to grow roses, that's another great day in the garden.

Melissa, I am happy as long as the plants are thriving as well. Flowers will come and go.
Spring was great....until that awful hot wind came and cut my flush short. But that was amazing having it all inside for a week! I never would have done that if I didn't know the wind was coming so thanks Jeri for the warning this spring. Hoovb escaped it, she was just south enough to be spared. After that, I had some nice blooms and then the heat came and cooked everything. I had a few pots get sunburnt and some leaves were so pale they were almost white when they formed. After the heatwave went by the leaves were beautiful and deep green again.
Fall came in a trumpet of glory. The best fall flush ever. The Bourbons were loaded and DA roses were in their glory. It seemed to go on and on. I had roses like Jack's Beanstalk with giant blooms on top. Now there is a period of nice warm weather with cool nights. Almost every HT and Fl has something and the fragrance is very good. I haven't seen any rain since a teeny weeny sprinkle a few weeks ago so the plants are all clean with no disease except some mildew on SdlM buds from overcast/ coastal foggy mornings. This year's Halloween show Chrysanthemum crop was so good. I had the big pom-pom showy ones. They hid in part shade during the heatwave and watering them twice a day was worth it when the buds finally arrived. Thanks also to my folks who watered bands and other pots in the June-July heat for me while I was in Gettysburg for the 150th.
Just now I am getting mulch and sifting the great soil I got from the neighbor who had some concrete poured. Why do people want to send their best topsoil to the dump? I have enough to make a raised planting and fill in the low spot on my corner where I want to put Perle d'Or (Perle the Great). The bands from Vintage in 1 gal pots now are growing very fast and all need a larger pot or to go in the ground. Actually, everything is still growing fast and I'm trying to keep up. Bulbs are up too early and I have some blloms on the plum tree. But the apple that I nearly lost has grown well and all it's spring grafts survived and are big fat branches full of leaves.
The worst was the brutal heatwave of late summer. It killed many of my delicate plants that have been on the edge of growing here. My Japanese maples had all the leaves fry so that there is nothing left to turn colors but I think the trees themselves are fine and will grow nicely next year. The heat didn't bother my Camellias and fall temps have given me a great bunch of buds. Already, the Sasanquas look good and a few early Japonicas have begun to open. Ingrid, I think you would like Camellias because they can hide in the shade and give you pretty flowers through the winter. While they are small, you can move them around and enjoy them wherever you like and move them into the garage or in deep shade during a heat wave.
If we get some rain in these upcoming months to wash the soil of irrigation deposits, I will call this year a good year for my roses.


Bottom line is there is no white knockout.
Only white out rose bred by same guy (Radler).
My mom has sunny knockout. It starts out yellow and fades
quickly to a off white color.
Article below explains:
Here is a link that might be useful: White KnockOut Rose?





Update... after all my research and having finally settled on Jens Munk we walk into Costco in September and spot five gallon Limelight hydrangeas for a killer price. So, we ended up buying 7 of those and planting my screening hedge in front of our bee hives... with veils on of course. :-) The hedge looks good, will look better in coming years, however, the look could be improved upon by a second "hedge" row of shorter roses in front of that... Jens Munk is out, too big for it... but a shorter rugosa rose, or maybe some of the shorter English roses advertised for hedging..hmmm... Choices choices...lol
Possibilities that come to mind, and assuming roses grow to a fairly predictable size in your zone 5b, are: Tamora, Munstead Wood, maybe The Prince; non Austins might include Bernstein-Rose, Easy Does It (might get too tall), Ebb Tide, or the new Carruth mini Diamond Eyes. DE's blooms are about 1 1/2 inches in diameter, but the bush is about 2 feet tall so far. Here's a pic of Diamond Eyes. Diane