22,153 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
Just my opinion, but if you haven't grown roses before, growing a climber up over part of your house and have it look like Christy's photo is like learning to drive by entering the Daytona 500. There's some skill and practice involved in trellising and pruning to get that beautiful look.
Best to try a few roses first, learn about them, and get a feel for what they do in your area. You have no information as to your location--your selection needs to be based on your climate.
Hoovb: Great analogy--and true! Lol. Even so, you must admit these roses are gorgeous.
@photogirl11: I hope I didn't mislead you in any way. I'm sure it's doable, but as Hoovb mentioned, a lot of work and skill, no doubt.
Good luck.
This post was edited by christy51274 on Thu, Apr 24, 14 at 17:30
I think one of the Lamium cultivars might work well for you. They do bloom, but generally in Spring, finishing about when the roses get started. There are many cultivars with various amounts of silver mottling which would be attractive in a shadier spot surrounded by evergreens. One suggestion -- if you're a patient gardener, don't worry about planting enough to fill the area right away. The Lamium will spread gently over time, and is easily divided and replanted to fill in elsewhere.
:-)
~Christopher
I don't know that you NEED to deadhead--but the garden and the plant will look a lot better if you do.
Deadhead can mean just snapping off the wilted bloom at its base. However, the remaining stem may then die back to the closest leaflet--so then you have to go back and do a second pruning to get rid of that brown stem. I've done that--but with hybrid teas I find it easier to just prune back to the first strong, healthy leaflet the first time and save myself the trouble of having to go back a second time.
You might experiment and see what the rose wants. Just snap off the wilted bloom and then wait and observe where the rose wants to put out a good strong bud. You can then trim back to just above that point, and then you will have some idea how far back to go for good leaflets you can trim to.
But keep in mind that some people are also pruning to control growth --some claim their HTs grow 8 ft tall (I wouldnt' know--mine never do). If that is the problem, then when you "deadhead," prune a foot or two down the stem, depending how much shorter you want it to be.
Even then, I'd probably prune back to a likely looking leaflet so that I don't have to watch part of the stem turn brown and die back.
Hope that helps.
Kate
I left my HT one year and didn't prune at all. Thought it might grow really big but it only went to about 6 or 6.5 feet. Not pruning it made it tall and lanky, and roses didn't look big and healthy. They looked rather poor.
I get better growth and roses when I prune in early spring. I also did not dead head as much. Easier to do when there are a few but as the season goes, there will be many more roses that you can't keep up with. So while I don't dead head each spent rose, I do prune and trim in mid-season to get a more compact look. That will, in effect, take out some of the roses that are still blooming or that have bloomed, and allow the plant to make more after a few weeks.
How about new climbers in the ground? I just put down climbing Peace, but it still looks like a little skeleton with a few pink fingers here and there.. Should I expect any vertical growth anytime soon? Been in the ground about three weeks, since early April.
I have to admit that my climbing Westerland surprised me with very little winter die back. I had considerable damage to my HT's despite at leasr 2' of snow cover from the second week of January. Some are dead to the soil line.
The fact that Westerland was alive pretty much to the 6' I left on last fall is surprising. I never considered Westerland as a particularly hardy rose.
Let's hope all of you northerners experience some serious basal growth.
I think it's really just a freak, random occurrence that happens sometimes in early spring. My SCENTIMENTAL has done that the last 2 springs. Just one stem turns white. Usually it will end up dying off before a bud forms. This yr it actually bloomed and the leaves and stem eventually turned green.
Prarie, I think that's a good idea. Although this winter was a particularly hard one, for an average winter I think you'll see they don't need as much cutting back as you think.
In any given winter you know you are going to have some winter kill on the canes. That's a given. If you've already cut them to 18 inches it's going to start from there. If you leave them longer, let's say 36 inches, then it will start from there and go down. On the 18 inch cane you may get 6 or 8 inches of kill leaving you only 10 inches to start with in the spring. If you lose 18 inches on the 36 inch canes you'll still have 18 inches of cane to start with in the spring. Some years you may not have as much die back and others, like this one, there could be more but you'll still end up with larger plants the majority of the time.
I know the books say to prune in the fall. "That's the way it's always been done." But there is newer thinking on a lot of those "rules" and in my opinion for good reason. As I stated earlier the rose stores a lot of energy in the canes. That's the energy it counts on having in the spring to regenerate. If you cut it all off in the fall you've just cut it's chances of surviving to come back for you. That deep pruning in the fall may be why a lot of people in cold zones have lost a lot of roses that may have made it otherwise. And why roses have such a bed reputation as being finicky.
Also looks like rose slugs to me. The babies can only rasp at the leaves so it has those semi-transparent spots. These guys hang out underneath the leaf and when they are big enuf to see they look like a skinny green miniature caterpillar.
I've tried to handpick but gave up one year with a huge infestation. Systemic worked very fast. Only one dose needed.
Not sure if the yellowing is directly related.
Wow, what great help, thank you! I never thought the leave spots would also be a little critter! It's a very small plant so I'll see this morning if I can just wipe down the leaves as I don't have any insecticide. It's also a small area of the plant so I'm sure I'm catching it early on. Much appreciated, so glad I asked!
What are the exact ingredients listed on the label?
Previous thread:
http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/roses/msg0212354624129.html
Here is a link that might be useful: link to earlier thread
Thanks all, I ordered 2 Zephys. There were few nurseries that still had some in stock. Martha was hard to find and when found it was sold out. I knew that it was late to order but happy to get the 2 Zephys. Now if we could just get rid of the ice on Lake Erie and get this spring rolling. Happy garden season to all. I am sure we are all itching to get out in the garden.
CLIMBING CLOTILDE SOUPERT, the climbing sport of the Polyantha bush. Not a rose for every location but in the East can be exceptional. Absolutely miserable (from mildew) in hot, dry climates. Does wonderfully here in the Mid-Atlantic. Very reliable repeat bloomer, shade tolerant, foliage is resistant to black spot, and few thorns on the canes. The rotund buds will ball when it is cold/wet but once the summer heat hits they open into breathtaking petite blossoms possessing an intensely sweet fragrance.
Image of Clotilde Soupert by HollySprings-8a at Hortiplex
Here is a link that might be useful: Climbing Clotilde Soupert at the Antique Rose Emporium
I'm still curious about this, so I hope PattiCakes will follow up.
Jeri
1) i am from india.
2) i have one light orange rose plant and a pink rose plant
3) orange rose is 4 year old and it is still not flowering it has good leaves,long branches.i haven't see a single bud on it since 4 years.
4) on the second hand i have another pink rose plant which has no problem
5).i give water daily and proper sunshine is there,then why my rose plant is not blooming.it is supposed to be orange rose as told by gardner.
i am sending the pick of that rose plant