22,153 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
Lost SDLM. Was pushing it with that one and kinda expected it. My Princess Alexandra of Kent is questionable. Will replace immediately if it doesn't make it. Also worried about my Constance Spry. Will find new climber if need be, but it might not be another Constance. She's beautiful and one of my earliest, but they don't seem to hang around very long.
I bought this rose at the close of the local rose field for the season, not sure if that was August or September. But I picked it up because it looked (most of the roses looked rather sad at that point) and was busy blooming.
This is its first spring in the ground so guess we will see how well it reblooms.
Climbing roses are rose bushes with long, flexible branches that can be tied to the fence. They will never develop 'tentacles' like a grape vine. Ramblers are extremely large climbing roses that bloom once per year (in spring). A climbing rose will cover an archway. A rambler will cover the whole garage.
When your new roses become established, they will send up new canes (branches) that will be soft and flexible. These are the canes that you will tie to the fence. You can use various materials to fasten the canes to the fence (twine, old pantyhose, etc). I hope this helps.
As Cecily said climbers do not have tendrils, like vines do, to latch on to things and climb on their own. They must be trained and tied to trellises and supports in order to do climbing. If left untrained or unsupported they will form large fountaining bushes.
Climbers take at least 3 years, and more often 5, to begin to climb. It takes that long for the plant to build up a large enough root ball in order to feed and support those long canes all the way to the tips. And during that time they need to have support behind them. It's thought that if they know there is something there to support them they will then send out those long canes. If not they may not produce them.
Cancer was mentioned earlier.
The link below at the national institute of health indicates that young women - under 20 years old while DDT was widely used and that were exposed were five (5) times more likely to get breast cancer.
Back in the day there were commercials with pretty women being sprayed directly with the fog.
I know there are a lot of pink ribbons in this country. The study indicates that there could have been a whole lot more of them. Just one of the ways that Rachel Carson is a hero.
Here is a link that might be useful: DDT and Breast Cancer in Young Women: New Data on the Significance of Age at Exposure
Disease resistance varies a lot by location. In general, the further east you are, the greater the humidity, so the more likely a rose is to get blackspot, the biggest disease problem in the east. So there are roses accurately described as 'very disease resistant' in Ohio, that are disease ridden messes in my yard, and anybody else's around here who doesn't spray.
IME, minis are not a disease resistant class. They are mostly grown for show roses. The grocery store minis are among the better ones.
A second vote for Earth Song. Also take a look at Carefree Beauty.
Although the color is more purplish than deep pink, Darcey Bussell is tip hardy here and disease free. It stays compact, does not sprawl like some other Austins and has relatively fewer thorns.
the rose garden in the bronx will be in full flush soon. they do not spray. if you are not in a hurry, take a look to see if what pinks impress you and would do reasonably well nonspray
Depends what winter hardy means... Apparently, different people have different ideas.
Most "winter hardy" do not refer to canes, but to the root and even that with protection.
So if you think about roses left unprotected all winter with no deadbajk...you may be surprised.
When you're making loops, the circumference takes up a good length of the cane (I'm not going to do the calculation this late at night, but circumference is 3.14 x diameter, and you can tell how much of the cane you're using up as you're doing it, AND you're keeping it pretty loose). So as long as you pick a short climber, it should fit well. You can also get a taller post or use a wider diameter pillar. I am winding from the get-go, in gradual upward loops, and I'm using the wood screws to guide my loops and help hold the canes so I don't have to tie much. In some roses, stressing the canes by bending them this way leads to greater bloom production, and that's what I'm aiming for. In my limited experience, when I take the cane straight up the post or the arbor, I only get blooms at the top. When I stress the canes by bending them horizontally, I get lots of roses all along the post, and that makes me very happy.
I've gotten many bare roots this season, and almost all of them have flexible canes, so this was not a rocket-science level task. Even my Tradescants, which are reputed to be super rigid, are flexible enough at this early stage for me to easily weave them on their arbor. On the other hand, the floribundas I used to work with -- forget it.
Best of luck. I think these pillared roses can be very pretty.
I have 2 pillared climbers on obelisks and treat them as...climbers. The stiff canes grow upward and I wrap the laterals loosely around the obelisk. After several mistakes, I do not force anything and leave enough space for airflow.
That said, my non expert suggestion is to use suitable climbers only. Not every climber works well on a pole.
The obelisk is where I learned that rose climbers aren't really climbers in the way we imagine a vine. As with so many things, the name is misleading.
I have Viking Queen on a 7' metal obelisk (13" diameter) for 2 years. It has a prime location in my garden and it sent branches to the top. However, last year flowering was weak. Looking forward to a great growing season this year.
This climber is supposed to be great on a pillar, with its flexible, long branches. (I am in NY with serious humidity in the summer and low winter temps).
Other climbers that are supposed to perform well on pillars are New Dawn and Iceberg.
This post was edited by mikeber on Tue, Apr 22, 14 at 22:36
From what I have seen of them, the darker purples can be a variable color. They are not always consistent. That does not mean that they can't be quite attractive. They are just don't always come out the color that may be expected. Possible reasons are sunlight angle and intensity and temperature.
The black poop things look like caterpillar poop. Caterpillars are best controlled by hand picking (wear gloves) or by spraying BT, which won't harm anything except caterpillars. BT can be sprayed on food, so it's quite safe, and will not harm bees or beneficial insects.
They look a little sunburnt to me, but relatively okay otherwise. Best to stick your fingers around in the soil and see if it is moist enough. If the soil feels cool to your fingers, then there is some moisture in the soil (not necessarily enough, but some). At the same time, don't drown them (soil is pure mud).
Some of those seem planted a little close to the home. A rose can get 5 or 6 feet wide--my Belinda's Dreams are wider than that. If a plant gets 6 feet wide, then it needs to be planted at least 3 feet from the house--more being better, so a person can get between it and the house if necessary for maintenance to the home (or plant).
I would hold off on fertilizer until the plants are a little more established, since they are a bit toasted. Your weather is already warm, which can be stressful for a small young plant trying to establish itself. If the temperatures really shoot up in the next few weeks, some temporary shade will reduce stress.
Susan - I think your ZD and MIP are a little ahead of mine. I think all my old garden roses are close to the same stage right now, a little bigger than chickpea size. The hybrid teas are all at different stages. The buds on my Peace roses look like they almost doubled in size in the past couple of days. My Belinda's Dream buds are still fairly small, with a few larger buds that look like they'll open within a few days. It is not easy to guess, and I don't know if I'm right, but now I am thinking I will have quite a few blooms in about ten days, which is close to right on schedule. I do think the warmth plays a huge factor, especially when it gets warmer overnight, like it has started doing here the past few nights.
I've only had Midnight Blue for one year now, and the first time it bloomed I, too, was disappointed. The next batches of blooms (the first had only one bloom) were much more purple and I was quite happy with the result. I had a mild summer last year, so I don't know how different the blooms look in different tempuratures. Either way, it's healthy and vigorous for me with lots of lovely blooms!
I hope yours will make you as happy as mine has made me.
There is no such thing as a blue rose. Not even the transgenic roses with delphinidin are blue because the cellular pH of the rose genus isn't acidic enough to express blue. As for purple roses most start out a deep saturated crimson red that progressively "blues" until shades of purple and violet are achieved. The color is extremely unstable and rarely lasts more than a day or two as the bloom fades out to grayish mauve.