22,795 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
What you are holding are "hips", seed pods. Roses are related to apples, so think of them as "rose apples". Inside there are achemes, what we call seeds. You can open the hips and dig out the seeds, but be careful of the fibers inside the hips. If you get them on you, it's as bad as fiberglass and you will itch like crazy until you shower to get them off you. Once the seeds are removed and all the pulp is cleaned from them, you can store them in a plastic bag in the vegetable crisper until fall/winter. Many who live in colder climates store them on damp, not 'wet', just damp, paper toweling inside ziploc bags until they see them begin to sprout, then they plant them individually. I live where I can (and do) plant outdoor for germination, so I'll let someone who lives in a colder climate and must handle them the way you likely should, give you advice from this point. But, yes, it might be possible for you to raise seedlings from the seeds those hips contain. Do it, you'll have fun! Good luck. Kim
Awesome...thank you for the info!! I live in zone 5 which gets snow and cold. A couple more questions..
okay, so i wait for fall or winter to start them?? When do you think would be best?? And since it will be cold out then, when i get the seeds out, do i just pot them up in dirt like i would regular seeds?? And do i leave the hips alone until the fall/ winter as is, and then get the seed part out of it, or get the seed out now and store them until then??
I have never tried this before and figured it would be something neat to try, but to be honest i dont think i am good at this. I have recently tried to start growing catnip seeds and impaitents and a couple others from seed, and for the life of me i cant seem to get anything to start or grow...but i am willing to keep trying, so any more helpful advice or thoughts will be appericiated :)
I see some old friends here. Nice discussion and always interesting. I use Bayer and don't have too many roses that require spraying. No matter the BS, my love for roses never wanes.
I'm anxious to look up something I think Michael suggested and some of the other chemicals here, just for thought sake. Hope you are all doing well.
Carla
You have to use a spreader with Manzcozeb.
I've been to no spray gardens here in Atlanta, the Botanical garden has one with many OGR. They may not completely defoliate, but to me they look horrid this time of year. Sparse yellow and spotted leaves. Not the way I want my yard to look.
My routine is to spray early on in the spring when the roses leaf out and then every 2-3 weeks after that. If you wait until you see BS, you will spend more time and more spray trying to get rid of it. Prevention is key. So even with organics, you should use them regularly. I do everything else organic. We just switched to an organic lawn service, I stopped using RU and use this new Ecosmart spray for weeds, if I have to. And I only use organic fertilizers. I don't subscribe to the idea that all chemicals are bad. Too much chemicals, maybe. So I try for a balance.
That LOOKS like downy mildew -- but that would be weird, because it is most-common where conditions are cool/dank. (Which is why I've seen so much of it.)
Can you post images of some leaves with the spots?
(If you have a flatbed scanner, that will make excellent images of leaves.)
The Wikipedia link below tries to give an overview of the field of RNA interference.
Of particle pertinence to Kippy's comment may be the following: "The role of RNA interference in mammalian innate immunity is poorly understood, and relatively little data is available. However, the existence of viruses that encode genes able to suppress the RNAi response in mammalian cells may be evidence in favour of an RNAi-dependent mammalian immune response,[71][72] although this hypothesis has been challenged as poorly substantiated.[73] Maillard et al.[74] and Li et al.[75] provide evidence for the existence of a functional antiviral RNAi pathway in mammalian cells. Other functions for RNAi in mammalian viruses also exist, such as miRNAs expressed by the herpes virus that may act as heterochromatin organization triggers to mediate viral latency.[39]"
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RNA_interference
Please encourage your children/grandchildren to major in science - there appears to be an infinite amout of research still to be done.
Here is a link that might be useful: link for above
Suspect teasing the roots apart is the initial problem for that four-in-one rose & your potting recipe, method & pots themselves poor choices. Am I understanding correctly that these all came from greenhouse conditions? If so, would have been a good idea to gradually transition them to outdoor realities to help them adapt before considering repotting or messing with them in any way, pretty much a rule of thumb for all plants newly coming out of greenhouse controlled environments. After successfully transitioning them to outdoor conditions, let them grow on in peace until they show additional growth without problems, indicating they've adapted & stabilized. At that point, you can work with them and their needs toward your goals. If you plan to add them to other plants in a mixed pot, you can do that then. Otherwise, no need to repot to a larger size unless & until their roots have filled & are beginning to crowd their original pot. You can slip their pot into a more decorative one for looks.
For future reference - if you prefer the lush full pot look the multiples were intended to provide, leave them be & treat as one plant. If you want to transplant the individuals in the multiple pot, wait at least until they've transitioned & stabilized as above to do so, and disturb the roots as little as possible in the process. Here's one method that works for me. Prepare by watering well a few hours or the night before dividing. You want the soil moist but not soggy, able to hold together without falling apart or crumbling. Set yourself up in the shade with your new pots & potting mix at hand. Using a sharp knife long enough to cut through the soil in a smooth motion without sawing, cut an x in two strokes across the pot leaving each plant centered in its section, as if cutting a cake into four equal pieces. Slide the knife down around the inside of the pot as if you were loosening a cake from its pan. Remove (I actually use a pie/cake server to do this) & pot each slice & water gently but thoroughly to settle them in. If the new soil sinks down below the slice's outline, top it up & water again until it's even. If they're sun or part sun plants, keep them in the shade for a few days to reduce any stress of dividing. Have done this successfully with mini roses several times, as well as other types of plants, but only tried when the stems were spaced in the original pot far enough apart to allow this, not when crowded together in the center.
Agree with other sound advice about immediate remedial repotting, potting mix, shade, frequent fine misting & not fertilizing new plants or transplants for reasons given. See no point for a sand layer below the soil or the mulch at the bottom, and imagine the mulch will absorb water & rot to the detriment of the plant. Which brings me to the pot itself. Looks like terracotta clay, whether glazed outside or wet can't tell. Terracotta absorbs a lot of water & can leave plants thirsty as well as wicking moisture from the soil. It has its advantages as well, but wouldn't recommend them for new gardeners. When using them with plants that need even moisture, they need to be initially soaked in a pail or sink of water until bubbles stop rising & then some to fully saturate them. After planting, you need to water the pot & the soil each time you water. You can tell when the soil & pot need to be watered again by rapping your knuckles against the side of the pot. A hollow sound like a ripe watermelon indicates excessive dryness & a dull rap signals adequate moisture. Water slowly till the surface below the pot is wet, then come back & water again a few minutes later. Once for the pot & twice for the plant. Another learning curve best left for another day. Use them for slip pots if you will, leaving room between your actual pot & the sides of the terracotta to prevent possible heat transfer.
No one to ask & no idea what questions were appropriate when I began gardening, then-timid me checked out a lot of library books on cultivation each time a new step was contemplated (very pre-internet). Advice was often contradictory from one author to the next. Muddled through, finding what succeeded, following the reasoning behind each treatment & remedy & building confidence.
Believe most gardeners have managed to unintentionally lose a lot of plants along the way - know I have! - as well as learning from goof-ups & salvaging a good many struggling ones back to health. Welcome to the ongoing journey of always-more-to-learn that makes gardening so fascinating & so rewarding!
This post was edited by vasue on Mon, Jun 23, 14 at 0:29
Yes I've noticed some areas only get Rose Slugs for a short time depending on how many generations they produce.
Some areas Rose Slugs will and can cause major foilage damage too.
Here we have Rose Slugs from May until November.( six months)... So every area of the country is different in the length of time that Rose Slugs hang around...
My suggestion is to pick and squish as Kate mentions in her post and just watch and see how long your rose slugs stay around in your area and see how much damage they cause. ( Each year will be different.)
Picking and squishing may be enough for you.
If not Safers Insecticidal Soap works. (Follow Directions)
I have a small Mister Lincoln rose bush in a container and this is what I seen the other day while checking him. lol.. I just picked them off...
Eden has some of the most beautiful blooms you are likely to encounter and it grows 10-12 ft so would be tall enough, but I don't think it would work that well colorwise. Basically it is a white rose with a pink center, so I don't think it will provide the "pop" you want. (And some people complain of poor re-bloom, if that matters. Mine re-bloomed, although not strongly.)
I would think in hot Texas, you would do well to get one of the "earth-kind" roses that were tested in that area. I believe Pinkie is one of their big successes and therefore would work well for you, as Boncrow suggested.
Kate
If I found one I loved I'd plant 2 for the length needed. These pinks I have been eyeballing.
Hope someone comments on hardiness for your area or is that not an issue?
Blossomtime - 15ft., O'Neal'51
Cesar - 16ft., pink tho HMF says yellow blend ???
Compassion - 15ft. (mine blooms at the end of canes, often candelabras, no laterals after ~10 years, I'd like to replace it with Papi Delbard)
Dream Weaver - 12ft., florib, zary'98
Maid of Kent - 12ft., clusters of sm flowers
Papi Delbard - 15ft.
Parade - 12ft., darker pink that lightens
Pearly Gates - 12ft., blooms last in Sacramento's humid heat in CA (per Kathy who knows her roses)
Penny Lane - 15ft.
Spanish Beauty - 20ft. (nope, don't want the pruning job)
I prefer own root roses in my z4 area IF the rose is vigorous growing on its own roots. Most modern shrub roses, minis, & OGR's do best own root. HT's & grandifloras tend to be not very vigorous on their own roots plus slower to wake up in the spring so I want these guys grafted. Floribundas are a mixed bag so some do well own root & others do better grafted.
Great information! Thank you so much for all the advice!