22,795 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
Suspect teasing the roots apart is the initial problem for that four-in-one rose & your potting recipe, method & pots themselves poor choices. Am I understanding correctly that these all came from greenhouse conditions? If so, would have been a good idea to gradually transition them to outdoor realities to help them adapt before considering repotting or messing with them in any way, pretty much a rule of thumb for all plants newly coming out of greenhouse controlled environments. After successfully transitioning them to outdoor conditions, let them grow on in peace until they show additional growth without problems, indicating they've adapted & stabilized. At that point, you can work with them and their needs toward your goals. If you plan to add them to other plants in a mixed pot, you can do that then. Otherwise, no need to repot to a larger size unless & until their roots have filled & are beginning to crowd their original pot. You can slip their pot into a more decorative one for looks.
For future reference - if you prefer the lush full pot look the multiples were intended to provide, leave them be & treat as one plant. If you want to transplant the individuals in the multiple pot, wait at least until they've transitioned & stabilized as above to do so, and disturb the roots as little as possible in the process. Here's one method that works for me. Prepare by watering well a few hours or the night before dividing. You want the soil moist but not soggy, able to hold together without falling apart or crumbling. Set yourself up in the shade with your new pots & potting mix at hand. Using a sharp knife long enough to cut through the soil in a smooth motion without sawing, cut an x in two strokes across the pot leaving each plant centered in its section, as if cutting a cake into four equal pieces. Slide the knife down around the inside of the pot as if you were loosening a cake from its pan. Remove (I actually use a pie/cake server to do this) & pot each slice & water gently but thoroughly to settle them in. If the new soil sinks down below the slice's outline, top it up & water again until it's even. If they're sun or part sun plants, keep them in the shade for a few days to reduce any stress of dividing. Have done this successfully with mini roses several times, as well as other types of plants, but only tried when the stems were spaced in the original pot far enough apart to allow this, not when crowded together in the center.
Agree with other sound advice about immediate remedial repotting, potting mix, shade, frequent fine misting & not fertilizing new plants or transplants for reasons given. See no point for a sand layer below the soil or the mulch at the bottom, and imagine the mulch will absorb water & rot to the detriment of the plant. Which brings me to the pot itself. Looks like terracotta clay, whether glazed outside or wet can't tell. Terracotta absorbs a lot of water & can leave plants thirsty as well as wicking moisture from the soil. It has its advantages as well, but wouldn't recommend them for new gardeners. When using them with plants that need even moisture, they need to be initially soaked in a pail or sink of water until bubbles stop rising & then some to fully saturate them. After planting, you need to water the pot & the soil each time you water. You can tell when the soil & pot need to be watered again by rapping your knuckles against the side of the pot. A hollow sound like a ripe watermelon indicates excessive dryness & a dull rap signals adequate moisture. Water slowly till the surface below the pot is wet, then come back & water again a few minutes later. Once for the pot & twice for the plant. Another learning curve best left for another day. Use them for slip pots if you will, leaving room between your actual pot & the sides of the terracotta to prevent possible heat transfer.
No one to ask & no idea what questions were appropriate when I began gardening, then-timid me checked out a lot of library books on cultivation each time a new step was contemplated (very pre-internet). Advice was often contradictory from one author to the next. Muddled through, finding what succeeded, following the reasoning behind each treatment & remedy & building confidence.
Believe most gardeners have managed to unintentionally lose a lot of plants along the way - know I have! - as well as learning from goof-ups & salvaging a good many struggling ones back to health. Welcome to the ongoing journey of always-more-to-learn that makes gardening so fascinating & so rewarding!
This post was edited by vasue on Mon, Jun 23, 14 at 0:29
Yes I've noticed some areas only get Rose Slugs for a short time depending on how many generations they produce.
Some areas Rose Slugs will and can cause major foilage damage too.
Here we have Rose Slugs from May until November.( six months)... So every area of the country is different in the length of time that Rose Slugs hang around...
My suggestion is to pick and squish as Kate mentions in her post and just watch and see how long your rose slugs stay around in your area and see how much damage they cause. ( Each year will be different.)
Picking and squishing may be enough for you.
If not Safers Insecticidal Soap works. (Follow Directions)
I have a small Mister Lincoln rose bush in a container and this is what I seen the other day while checking him. lol.. I just picked them off...
Eden has some of the most beautiful blooms you are likely to encounter and it grows 10-12 ft so would be tall enough, but I don't think it would work that well colorwise. Basically it is a white rose with a pink center, so I don't think it will provide the "pop" you want. (And some people complain of poor re-bloom, if that matters. Mine re-bloomed, although not strongly.)
I would think in hot Texas, you would do well to get one of the "earth-kind" roses that were tested in that area. I believe Pinkie is one of their big successes and therefore would work well for you, as Boncrow suggested.
Kate
If I found one I loved I'd plant 2 for the length needed. These pinks I have been eyeballing.
Hope someone comments on hardiness for your area or is that not an issue?
Blossomtime - 15ft., O'Neal'51
Cesar - 16ft., pink tho HMF says yellow blend ???
Compassion - 15ft. (mine blooms at the end of canes, often candelabras, no laterals after ~10 years, I'd like to replace it with Papi Delbard)
Dream Weaver - 12ft., florib, zary'98
Maid of Kent - 12ft., clusters of sm flowers
Papi Delbard - 15ft.
Parade - 12ft., darker pink that lightens
Pearly Gates - 12ft., blooms last in Sacramento's humid heat in CA (per Kathy who knows her roses)
Penny Lane - 15ft.
Spanish Beauty - 20ft. (nope, don't want the pruning job)
Anne - I have not noticed that! I better go out and smell the roses. :o)
That's great I hope they do get bigger for you! I can't wait to see this rose bush once it's established. Woo! Mine is out in the open so it can really get as big as it'd like!! Sorry to hear about the bugs getting your blooms. Hopefully they hold off for you a little longer. And I sure can't wait to see your pictures!!
bbunnicula - thank you!! I have heard great things about Julia Child. I will definitely be checking out the ones you have. :o) The High Voltage blooms are a lot more of a pale yellow than I expected from photos but I love it!
Lol...wow...ok. my uncle who was an agronomist with the GA Ag Dept said leafhopper of some sort and to use spinosid. Yes they could be why my roses are dying. What we dont understand is why its just an issue in this hedge and not my other roses. At this point I dont care. Lol
I itch after rose scratches. ..and I have 15-20 little red bites...and they itch. .oh the joys of gardening!
In eastern zone 7, cercospora spot is more likely than spot anthracnose and affects a greater range of varieties. Bayer tebuconazole does not control these diseases, but mancozeb or chlorothatlonil (Daconil) may be useful. However, I just let these diseases go as they are not going to totally defoliate the roses and they don't spread much in hot weather.
We had a severe freeze in mid-April which did a lot of damage. Also the harsh winter may have done damage to the canes that you are not used to seeing.
Just be sure the roses get adequate but not excessive water and fertilizer and they will probably recover.
It is normal for some roses to suffer iron deficiency while others in similar soil do not. Give these roses some iron sufate, or whatever you prefer, every spring.
I love love love Oklahoma. And Mr. Lincoln. The only fragrant red I've ever grown that meets the requirements would be Barcelona/Francis Dubreuil. This is a bullet proof rose. Slow to grow, like a tea. But the color is gorgeous and the scent is to die for. I'm getting almost continuous bloom at this time in the season.
Susan
Can you post a photo?
How often are you giving them the rose food?
When you say "watering properly", can you describe how you water?
Do the plants move if you try to rock them? There might be damage to the roots (voles), or the plants might have become unseated during the winter.