22,153 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
Listen to hoov and be patient. It's been a really nasty winter for us and the roses. The soil is taking much longer to warm than usual and the roots can't support new top growth until they can easily absorb and send water and nutrients up to keep it going. The larger the plant the more energy that takes and I'm betting your Cecile is a good size after six year. Make sure you prune off any dead cane or tip die back and then wait for the weather to catch things up.
I have a 15 year old specimen of Mlle. Cecile, large enough to hide a small house under. This year, 90% of the canes are dead, thanks to the Polar Vortex. What few canes survived, I will leave till after (IF) they flower and then cut the whole mess down and make it start over. I expect you will find you have to do the same. If it hasn't leafed out by now, its not likely going to. This rose doesn't tolerate temps as low as what we got this year.
Mine is growing in a round flowerbed around a birdhouse. Right now, it is smothered in poppies - once they bloom and are pulled out, I can tell more. Seems to be a pretty tough rose - it might need a bit more sun, and I might repot it to give it some extra care. I have Chipmonk growing in a pot, has been for a few years - is blooming now, very healthy. I love these mauve/tan roses too. Were it me, think I would pot it in good soil in a nice sized pot, give it good morning, early afternoon sun and wait for it to grow a bit. Good luck!
Judith
waited two years for this rose. this is her second spring in the ground. She did well last summer and appears to have survived our winter. got to about 15 inches. i have her in full morning sun, dappled afternnon. i love the color, too. i will post a pic when she blooms.
Rabbits chewed most of our young own root roses to the ground the winter before last. They all came back.
I started putting wire fencing around them during the winter time and they have been leaving them alone.
Had to laugh though when the snow got deep this winter and I forgot to remove the snow around the roses and I looked out one day and rabbits were walking on top of the snow which was higher than my wire fencing and rabbits were munching... So had to keep the snow cleared away after that...lol
I just took this pic a few minutes ago...
Depends on how hungry the deer may be .... I have actually seen them jumping up to grab stuff way over their heads for something to eat.
It's probably best that when you build your deer protection at the base of the plant, to make it as wide and tall as you can. I have actually had roses use my deer cages for support as they continued to climb.
Smiles,
Lyn
As Jackie said, you just sent it a signal to do more growing so not worry. It will take a few weeks before there will be enough new growth, at a mature enough age, to produce a bud.
Basal breaks are new canes that come up from the roots of an own root rose. It is also loosely defined as new canes from the bottom, bud union, of a grafted rose. Either way they are a good thing!
Beautiful, Beth! Isn't it lovely when the funny colors actually
ARE those colors? It takes sun and cool, damp temps to develop the blue and purple haze over the orange petals so you get the Hershey bar chocolate haze over Brown Velvet and the other deeper russets. Those conditions also prevent Lavender Pinocchio from turning pink. Thank you for sharing! Kim
How big does PAoK get? I am more concerned with her width. I have read that she gets 4x4 and I have read that she gets 3.5 x 2.5. I have a space of 10 feet and was wondering if I could plant PAoK with Belinda (separated by lavender). Wonder if I'd have enough room and how it would look. Any suggestions?
Seil, Thanks so much! I may take cuttings from the pretty rose to see if I can get it on it's own roots before I destroy the root stock.
I wonder how far those suckers can travel? There are 4 spots, including the big clump on the slope (which was probably a grafted variety killed by Dr. Huey.
I am betting they are all connected. Round up might be the answer, but I don't want to kill the Pretty rose.
Interesting that Dr. Huey only blooms once. We moved here last June and never saw it bloom.
Does Dr Huey send up shoots 5 to 10 feet away from it's beginning? I have no clue which clump is it's start, but I will begin by pulling out the suckers closest to the pretty rose.
Thank you!
Suzi
Alana,
We pruned all the dormant canes low this winter (if you can call it winter). The blooms are low, but long canes are forming now. It's hard to capture it all in a photo, but they are sticking up everywhere in each clump, especially the clump on the slope.
And you are correct. They are not the "type" of rose I want.
I love the pretty one. Wish I knew what it was. Might be a floribunda or a grandiflora. It has so many baby buds.
Suzi
I posted these details on a recent Austin thread:
I am in the mid-Peninsula a block from the Bay. Summer highs rarely get into the 70s (F) and we get light frost for a few days in winter. Powdery mildew is a menace and anthracnose and cercospora trouble the roses that are prone to "spotting". Rust has been a problem on some of my roses the last two years. My garden is no-spray.
Belle Story - grafted. 10+ years. Spring and fall flushes with smattering of blooms in between. Good health but is prone to cercospora spots in summer. It has earned its place in my small suburban garden because of its enchanting and breath-taking blooms. Great fragrance, as well.
Molineux - I have 2. Grafted (10+ years) and own root (4th year) and . Always in bloom. Good health. My workhorses. the grafted rose is 6 feet tall and 5 feet wide. The own-root is 5 X 4 (it was bought as a band and was very slow in growth the first 2 years).
Geoff Hamilton - own root; 5th year. Gorgeous blooms. A once-bloomer for me. I have seen it grown grafted in a warmer summer area where it has 3 big flushes. Will be gone from my garden if the drought in California persists.
Crown Princess Margareta - Mine is own root in its 4th year. Good spring flush and then all she wants to do is throw out long thin thorny canes; I have almost no rebloom from her the rest of the year. I am tired of constantly hacking her back in attempts to control her. A few miles inland, a CPM, grafed and grown as a shrub, is almost constantly in bloom. CPM will be gone from my garden after this spring.
Mary Rose - own root; 4th year. So far, she is staying small. Great fragrance, good rebloom and a healthy plant. A favorite.
Abraham Darby - own root, 4th year. I am trying to grow it as a small climber. It is generous of bloom and has decent health. The blooms leave something to be desired (mine don't always look like the pics on HMF) and rust has shown up on it this past year. I would replace it with a better rose but for its fragrance...
Young Lycidas - grafted, 4th year. Good repeat and blooms are very fragrant. Color is lovely - magenta-purple with a silvery sheen. Foliage is, well, weird. Crinkley and appears diseased but is not. Needs staking as the canes are pencil-thin and can't hold the heavy blooms.
Strawberry Hill - grafted; 3rd year. Fragrant blooms in shades of pink, peach and lilac depending on the weather. Rivals Molineux in generosity of bloom. Nasty, wicked thorns. Ackward when I grew it as a shrub - pencil thin canes with huge trusses of blooms face down in the mud; I now grow it as a small climber and it's a constant chore to keep tying back and controlling the canes. Unfortunately, prone to mildew and rust in my garden. (I hadn't seen rust in my garden before). I am hoping it becomes more disease resistant with age as its foliage when not mildewed or looking like cheetos is absolutely lovely.
The Wedgwood Rose - Grafted; 3rd year. This rose has me completely baffled. I get 4 flushes but each flush has only 3-4 blooms. The size of blooms have ranged from the size of a quarter to 4 inches. Disease-free.
The following were added to my garden March of last year, so they are still new. I am adding my observations on health and bloom this past year. All are grafted.
Princess Anne - lovely shade of magenta-pink. Much admired by visitors. I can't detect a fragrance but most others say it is strong and very pleasant. Good-looking shrub. Canes are covered in thorns but they are not vicious. Stopped blooming after October.
Wollerton Old Hall - lovely blooms. Great fragrance. Bloomed well into December. Is my favorite of the new four. Not low-thorn, as noted in David Austin's catalog.
Lady Emma Hamilton - would grow it for the fragrance alone. Repeat seems to be very good. She has been troubled by cercospora or anthracnose. It is particularly bad this spring.
Princess Alexandra of Kent - big blooms with a color range of pink and coral. Fragrance is iffy but, when there, it is pleasant. Has been constantly in bloom and is blooming now. Unfortunately, prone to powdery mildew. It's in an east facing bed and I will be moving it to a south-facing one to see if I can keep the PM in check. Also, the blooms have a tendency to ball so I am hoping the south side will help in that regard as well. (I try not to get roses with a high petal could but I guess I wasn't paying attention when I ordered this one.) Mine is already 7 feet wide and 5 feet tall. And, I have 2 - both placed in the front of the garden bed. Sigh.
My favorites - Wollerton Old Hall, Princess Anne, Belle Story, Mary Rose
Workhorses (for continuity of bloom) - Molineux, Strawberry Hill
Top in fragrance - Lady Emma Hamilton, Abraham Darby, Young Lycidas, Wollerton Old Hall (disclaimer: some people have intensely disliked its scent)
Jo
I had a running toilet fixed. It probably used more water than my rose watering. Except for the babies, my landscaping is established and I water once a week. Last summer I watered too long and will need to keep an eye on it. Most of it is manual and I need to remember to move the sprinkler. 80% of my yard is oaks and they don't get watered.
hi hoovb.
thanks for the reply! it looks like the canker!
and what confuse me is that the canker almost happened in the trunk of the rootstock, where there were bud eye.
if the canker tends to attack the site of the de-eyed, dose that mean tree rose is not suitable for our condition?
actually i found a suckers died a couple days ago, the lower part of the stem turned black.
the climate here during springtime is very damp, it rains a lot, the lowest temprature is about -3â to -1âÂÂ.
Rose standards (or rose trees) are almost always double crafts. The flowering portion is crafted onto the central cane (trunk), which is crafted onto a rootstock -- so the rose standard is actually 3 different rose varieties growing symbiotically as one plant.
The trunk portion of a rose standard is extremely vulnerable, primarily because of its total exposure to the elements. To me, the damage on your plant appears to be sun scald . Persistant dry, desiccating winds and/or winter conditions can produce similar damage.
Generally speaking, most gardeners take certain precautions to protect the trunk of a rose standard (especially newly planted ones). It's always advisable to support the trunk with a stake that is somewhat wider than the trunk itself. (The taller the standard, the more important it is to provide support.) The stake should be placed so that it shades the trunk during hours when sun exposure is most intense. Where winters are severe, standards are sometimes surrounded by mesh cages which are filled with dried leaves or some form of loose mulch.
Rose standards are labor-intensive additions to a garden -- especially during the several seasons it usually takes for the trunks to develop girth and rigidity. If well grown they're worth the effort, though.
Back in CT I pruned as early as late February and as late as mid April. Do it before they start to sprout and you probably will have to do it again later anyway. When you do it too soon you sometimes don't know what is dead and what isn't and if you do it too late you have to cut off new growth on canes that aren't worth keeping. If the forsythia is blooming in z6 that is a month late and about as late as I remember it ever blooming in z6b sw CT. I would do the pruning no matter how cold it is.
Go for it! If the forsythia and grass are growing the roses will be too. I don't think this cold snap will last long before it goes back to spring temps and your roses will be all ready to take off.