22,151 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
It may be 1867, the introduction of the rose La France, Melissa, since that's the year they use in ARS competitions to distinguish between Dowager and Victorian awards. Thanks for the more comprehensive list of classes. I tried to figure them all out once because I wanted to exhibit a newly introduced rose that is in an OGR class and didn't know if it would qualify for Victorian or Dowager or if it had to go in the Shrub catagory because of it's new intro date. In the end they said it could go in Victorian because of it's classification but not Dowager because it was introduced after 1867. It's complicated since some of the classes also have sub classes within them as well. I never did come up with a complete list, lol. Your explanation that it has to do with the date the CLASS was introduce and not the date the VARIETY was introduced is very clear.
It may be 1867, the introduction of the rose La France, Melissa, since that's the year they use in ARS competitions to distinguish between Dowager and Victorian awards. Thanks for the more comprehensive list of classes. I tried to figure them all out once because I wanted to exhibit a newly introduced rose that is in an OGR class and didn't know if it would qualify for Victorian or Dowager or if it had to go in the Shrub catagory because of it's new intro date. In the end they said it could go in Victorian because of it's classification but not Dowager because it was introduced after 1867. It's complicated since some of the classes also have sub classes within them as well. I never did come up with a complete list, lol. Your explanation that it has to do with the date the CLASS was introduce and not the date the VARIETY was introduced is very clear.
It may come back. Do you know if it was deer, rabbits, caterpillars or wombats that did the damage? It if was deer, you need to find a way to keep them away from your plant. They have strange eating habits. They may leave something alone for decades and then it becomes food.
You can try taste or smell based products, but they haven't worked for me. There are three ways to keep deer from eating a rose; enclosing an entire area with a very tall fence, deer cages or training the growth to be above about 4 feet. This is for climbers and staked canes.
Oh, what a shame! I don't have deer (knock wood) but the rabbits do a number on mine. The best thing is a fence or to cage them some how so they can't be eaten. it's the most effective way to go. Repellents only work for a time and you have to be vigilant about applying them regularly. But eventually they get used to it and ignore it and you have to change tactics.
I think your rose will come back. As long as the stem remains green it should grow new leaves. Keep it away from the deer though because it will only have the energy to do that a couple of times before it will die.
I seem to recall mine doing the same thing the first couple of bloomings. Like Kim said, it'll turn purple eventually. It's by far one of my favorite roses.
Here's a couple of pics of mine from a few days ago:
As you can see, the color varies from bloom to bloom and day to day.
Heirloom Roses posted on their website that they are now offering roses in gallon pots, due to customer feedback asking for more mature roses. They are higher priced though. The bands are still available.
Here is a link that might be useful: Video from Heirloom Roses
To me, the yellow looks exactly like rose mosaic virus. And yes, lots of roses can exhibit it, especially if they are grafted hybrid teas. In fact, I seen comments more than once on this forum that most of the rootstock in the US has been infected--which means that most of the grafted roses we buy have it--unless the nursery has taken special measures (expensive!) to get rid it. And most of the nurseries have NOT done that.
The good news is that usually the symptoms of rose mosaic virus just appear for a short time (spring seems to be a popular time) and then they go into hiding. I have an Earth Song--about 6-7 years old--that every once in a while exhibits leaf symptoms. Rest of the year--it looks and blooms just like any other rose would. So I don't worry about it, and if a leaf with symptoms gets on my nerves, I simply remove it so that I don't have to look at it.
Here is my rmv Earth Song--bright pink, and blooming well, in my opinion.
Kate
This post was edited by dublinbay on Sat, Apr 12, 14 at 12:29
Often when the subject of rose viruses comes up, there are comments from growers with hot summers that an infected rose is not a big deal. The early research appears contradictory on this point, The following link is to more recent research in Poland.
http://www.up.poznan.pl/ptfit/pdf/PP44a/PP_44_027-035.pdf
In their introduction they appear to recognize that higher temperatures reduce the effect of infection:
"On the other hand, Wong and Horst (1988) have not observed any effect of viral infection on stem length and total number of rose cut flowers among âÂÂBridal PinkâÂÂ, âÂÂFragrant CloudâÂÂ, âÂÂGrand MasterpieceâÂÂ,
âÂÂSamanthaâ and âÂÂSimplicityâ cultivars. The plants were grown in greenhouse, and the elevated temperatures may have alleviated effect of PNRSV."
The Polish research is consistent with the theory that roses have an immune system against PNRSV that is more effective at higher temperatures.
http://home.roadrunner.com/~kuska/high_temperature_effect_on_pnrsv.htm
Here is a link that might be useful: Polish rose virus research
I love Roses Unlimited, They sent me large, robust, healthy and LOVELY plants that started blooming a few weeks after arrival and neve stop thriving. Stephanie who answers the phone is patient and lovely, even though I was this stumbling idiot when it came to roses. Pat who's the owner is also very nice and considerate in our communications via emails, though I'd recommend communicating through the phone.
I've ordered most of mine on line because the local nurseries don't carry much of a selection. I'll double, triple and quadruple the warning about Grow Quest!!! DO NOT bother with them. I am one of the horror stories out there. Other than that I've had pretty good luck with most all of the other reputable sources. Yes, even Horitico gets it right or makes it right a fair amount of the time. But all of the other places mentioned here are VERY good sources. I have purchased bare roots from Regan on line and they were fabulous plants but they've already stopped sending bare roots out for this year and they don't ship potted plants that I know of.
This is a problem that I run into every year. By the time my season rolls around it's hard to find roses available for shipping because so many of the major nurseries are out west or down south and it's getting too warm there. That and the selection is slim because they're already well picked over by the warm zone buyers. It makes it really hard to find some roses if you live in zones 7 and below. I can't always know a year in advance what I might need or want or be able to afford so I can place an early order. Makes it tough.
Also, I know next to nothing about pruning :$ I guess come fall I'll be reading up on how to prune those large pink roses. I prune off the flowers as they die so that it continues to bloom. Perhaps they are not well suited for growing in a container. I argued with my husband last year to get bigger pots, but he felt a pot slightly bigger than the one they came in would be fine. It was, but they definitely look like they are outgrowing it. The two pink roses look like they might be too close during winter, but it's pretty dry here in California. I figured being this close might help create a humid microclimate? Although humidity causes fungal problems, so I don't know >_
If you intend to keep those roses in pots, they will definitely need bigger pots soon. Terra cotta pots are fine, but bigger would be better. That will also help the heat issue. In our dry No CA climate, I would group the pots together as you suggest. It will not cause fungal problems as it might somewhere where it is humid.
I think your plants look lovely - keep asking questions on here, and enjoy them!
Jackie
I pruned all the dead canes back on my roses yesterday; most had to be cut back to only 2-3 inches, the miniatures even less. But, nearly all of the plants are showing some buds and even leafing out close to the base -- only one I think is completely dead, but I will wait to see.
I was wondering if it would be useful to feed them now or should I wait?
They are all in raised beds, but even so, it is still very soggy out there and more rain is coming, if that is a consideration. TIA
Dig a bit and see what's happening at the root level. How old is this plant? Did you plant it as a band? As a bare root? Did you make sure the soil was compacted around the roots? It is very difficult to drown a rose unless you have an extremely water retaining clay soil. I'm prepared to bet it needs more watering but only you can tell by investigating what's happening below the surface. Also, the rose recovering during the night or some time after you water it and drooping in the afternoon is a sure sign of not enough water for the conditions. It means it reacts to watering and to the hot conditions, ergo it's not drowning.
Nik
This post was edited by nikthegreek on Fri, Apr 11, 14 at 14:25
I would just rig up some temporary shade and not do anything else until they recover. The shade will keep stress on the plant's systems to a minimum. We had that three days of 90F or 90F+. That is very stressful for a young plant.
Also be careful with how much amendment you add to the soil. As woody material (even when composted) mixed into the soil decomposes, it robs the soil of oxygen. Plant roots need oxygen as much as they need water and nutients.
I planted a grafted PJPII this past winter and so far it is beautiful and healthy. I love it and I'm not that into hybrid teas. But, it remains to be seen if it will survive the summer; that is the real test of roses here, I think.
Jasper, it should do well. Mine always performs it's best when it's the hottest here. It really hates my cool springs and falls and rarely grows much or blooms until at least July. And those nice thick petals open very reliably in any humidity. It's the only white HT I've ever had luck with in my humid Great Lakes area.