22,795 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
Thanks all. Most of the credits go to my husband who prep the flower bed for me last year. The bed was raised a foot and half and he filled it up with top soil with peat moss. I believe the top soil have some composted manure added. Last Fall he shredded dry leaves and covered the whole bed with with. We're both new at gardening. So everything is guess work for us. In Spring I gave them a little Scott's rose food. I'm thinking about trying milorganite but I'm doing some research on that right now. Do you have any suggestion for good rose food?
I do get yellow leaves, usually at the bottom. I usually pull them off and spray the plant just a little once a month.
Also, some of my roses are slowly growing and no bloom. I got some tea roses that were impacted by the harsh winter and just woke up. Also, 5 bareroots from David Austins that I acquired at the end of April. Anything I can do to speed them up?
This post was edited by Joopster on Tue, Jun 17, 14 at 9:52
Most European OGRs bloom on old wood -- even many of those which repeat. So what happens is that new canes (thick shoots from the base) will grow this year, and next year will bloom on laterals on last year's canes. After the first flush, if you cut back the laterals on last year's shoots, they'll bloom again (if the rose repeats).
Basically, they bloom on new shoots growing from last year's canes. This is the case for most of the long-caned Bourbons and Hybrid Perpetuals. Some of those with an extra dose of China or Tea will bloom on new shoots the same year, but 'Zephirine Drouhin' isn't one of those.
So if this rose is new for you, don't expect much in the way of blooms the first year -- sometimes not much the second year, either. The rose first needs to grow its layer of canes which will mature and then flowerHybrid Teas and Floribundas have heavier doeses of China-derived repeat-blooming genes, and so they will bloom on new shoots their first year (hence their being able to take hard-pruning in Spring and still flower that same year).
:-)
~Christopher
Roses are the beautiful flowers through which you can show your love to someone, if you want to buy flowers, then contact flowersatkirribilli that has different varieties of flowers are available.
Here is a link that might be useful: different varieties of flowers
It took mine 4-5 years with staking to develop a self-supporting framework. Fortunately it is cane-hardy at least to zone 6, or else you'd never get a decent plant. If I had it to do over again, I would use a 6' tripod or tuteur to help it gain height. It needs to be tall because the flowers nod. Heed Tuggy's suggestion of cutting the drooping laterals back to an inside (upward-facing) bud after blooming/
Mine has been gorgeous this spring flush. It is really strange that some people can't smell it. My 73-year-old nose finds the perfume to be powerful and consistent. But different people have different sets of scent receptors.
I would describe the colors as apricot to mild orange, fading to beige at the end. In my climate it is not often pink.
This post was edited by michaelg on Mon, Jun 16, 14 at 12:18
Thank you, Nancy! It is planted near Husker Red Penstemon Digitalis, which reliably blooms at the same time as the roses each year in the late spring. After the white blooms are over, you can cut it back and the foliage still looks nice for the rest of the summer. It is called "red" because the foliage and stems sometimes appear to have a dark, maroon type color.
Wow--they look great! I placed an order too. I got Purple Splash (cl) and a replacement Marilyn Monroe that didn't make it back from winter. Hopefully they get here today or tomorrow.
I've been very pleased with RU and their great plants. When I don't buy local roses, they are the first site I am on for hunting down roses on my wishlist.
Basically, grafted/budded roses are "two plants in one" -- the roots are one variety, and the top-growth is another. Suckers (new shoots from the roots) are new top-growth from the root variety, and something you DON'T want.
But own-root roses are the same rose all the way through, top and bottom. So if new top growth comes from the roots, it will be the same as pre-existing top-growth. If the new shoots are not where you want them to be (as in Gallicas and Spinosissimas), then certainly remove them. But in your pic, those new shoots will help to develop a fuller, bushier plant than would be possible from a grafted/budded rose.
:-)
~Christopher
No, so long as it isn't a bareroot plant, but potted and growing, and you understand its watering needs over the summer.
Given the truly marginal roses that are described as 'hardy', it is easy to run out of words to describe Explorers. If you would do it with a lilac, or any other hardy shrub, you can do it with these roses.
I have a lot of young roses, hydrangeas and clematis so I water regularly. That wouldn't be a problem. I was looking at high country roses, they have an own root quadra on there for a good price.
Thanks so much for the advice. I think I will go w/ quadra for my arbor. :o)
Posted by jazzmom516 Zone 7 LI, NY (My Page) on Mon, Jun 16, 14 at 10:36
The second rose appears to be taller and bigger than Rose de Rescht. The scent is very strong. I really love the scent. Someone has suggested Rose Charles de Mills. But if you examine the leaves, they all have seven leaflets.
It's too big for either "Rose de Rescht" or 'Charles de Mills.' Though I've never seen it in person, the first name which came to mind for the second rose is 'Russelliana.'
:-)
~Christopher
Here is a link that might be useful: 'Russelliana' at HelpMeFind
Unless your trellis is huge or you mean to spend your life pruning, I'd say New Dawn and Peggy Martin would take up all the space and then some. A photo wood be helpful.
I will get a pic this weekend. I was hoping to plant a short climber that repeat blooms so I will have color when the ND and PM are done blooming. My New Dawn looks scrawny to me and has never really turned into a monster like I have heard it can be. My PG is a very small, I received her as a cutting and put her in the ground so I don't expect her crowd anything out anytime soon and I really only want to plant something new on the side as the ND.