22,152 Garden Web Discussions | Roses

Dig a bit and see what's happening at the root level. How old is this plant? Did you plant it as a band? As a bare root? Did you make sure the soil was compacted around the roots? It is very difficult to drown a rose unless you have an extremely water retaining clay soil. I'm prepared to bet it needs more watering but only you can tell by investigating what's happening below the surface. Also, the rose recovering during the night or some time after you water it and drooping in the afternoon is a sure sign of not enough water for the conditions. It means it reacts to watering and to the hot conditions, ergo it's not drowning.
Nik

This post was edited by nikthegreek on Fri, Apr 11, 14 at 14:25

I would just rig up some temporary shade and not do anything else until they recover. The shade will keep stress on the plant's systems to a minimum. We had that three days of 90F or 90F+. That is very stressful for a young plant.

Also be careful with how much amendment you add to the soil. As woody material (even when composted) mixed into the soil decomposes, it robs the soil of oxygen. Plant roots need oxygen as much as they need water and nutients.

After adding some more compost to the soil I increased the size of the trough and poured some mulch. Here's a dumb question, do I put mulch in the water trough or around it?

I'm sure it won't hurt, just build up your trough with the mulch and don't lay it too thick on the inside so water can easily get through it, maybe an inch or so? Mom always did that with hers, keeps the roots cool and wet.

You can also find some type of ground cover to plant around it next season, or whenever you are done moving it around lol. Something that can handle being trimmed if necessary is and fast growing, but won't take all the food from the rose. There's this stuff here in Indiana that's got little yellow flowers and creeps over the ground, grows like a weed just about anywhere and can take over if you're not careful, really resistant to both wet and dry weather and can handle hard freezes and blaring sun with no worries; we put it in all of our empty-looking flower beds that have big, tall plants but it chokes out smaller things like hyacinth (don't know if I spelled that right... oops). After a quick Google search I found the name of it, Czar's Gold Sedum. The link is a place to buy it and the only one I could find that looks like ours, not sure if it will grow well where you're at but hopefully it will help give you a place to start looking if you want to give something like it a try. :3

Here is a link that might be useful: Czars Gold Sedum, takes a bit of scrolling down to find it

This post was edited by SasorisPuppet on Fri, Apr 11, 14 at 11:15

My back yard doesn't have sun this late in the afternoon, so this is the best shot I could get just to show the number of buds on James Galway. Hope it's clear enough.

Colette is in her gorgeous spring flush right now. I do mean gorgeous. A smaller flower and smaller foliage on this romantica. One to be viewed up close. Bloom color varies from warm soft pink to peachy pink to apricot. It took me a couple of years to appreciate this rose as I'm used to larger showier blooms. It finally dawned on me I've never seen disease on it. Aphids, yes.

Mines more of a permanent pot ghetto too.
Speaking from somewhere it gets pretty hot in summer, its always a good idea to mulch. I tried mulching a few with lucerne hay (alfalfa) this year, and it seems to have helped.
That and get them up off the ground a bit ( especially if they are resting on concrete paving). I rest mine up on bricks to try and get some airflow underneath, and discourage the ants from setting up home.
Getting the watering right- its very easy to skip a few days here and there 'cos the weather isn't "that" hot...or the forecasts keep promising rain that doesn't materialise) then your pots start to dry out. The rose wont die..it just stops growing and flowering, starts looking skanky, and becomes susceptible to disease.

Not sure how feasible climbers would be here as permanent pot residents; I spend far too much time thinking about DIY movable trellising and how to rig up cost effective versions. Your Pat Austin is giving me ideas again Daisy :)

Buff Beauty mysteriously ended up on last years bare root order. 10 months later, shes looking ok, but would be happier trained on something..

No inspring pics from my ghetto, but Seil always gives me hope that one day I can master the art of growing in pots, hehe

In zone 9 I don't know how big a climber or rambler could get so it may not be possible to pot them. But in my zone 6 they never reach the size they can where you are so I had no problem potting my Blaze for 6 years. I have a Dublin Bay in a pot right now because I want it to get larger before I plant it in the ground. Hoping it takes off this season!

One of my faces. Bought several for the house I moved into a couple years ago and they are blooming. Gorgeous blooms. Would not be without her.

Dani; you could try Frederic Mistral - he is similar in colour, and according to HMF, rated to zone 5. The the comments and ratings there seem to attest that he does well in colder zones.
Sadly we don't seem to get Belindas Dream here, so I cant compare the two, but I can confirm that Freddy is very strongly fragranced.

Thanks everyone!

Yes, if you want to do some transplanting, and the soil is digable, now is a good time. Otherwise we need to just wait some more. I know it's hard. I'm as itchy as everyone else to get out there but it's still too soon. I checked my forsythia today and there isn't any even any signs of growth let a lone bloom on it.

Wise advise indeed, Seil! Lots of us northerners have been through brutal winters followed by our old nemisis by which I mean cycles of disappointing spring thaws followed by chilly temps which included dreadfull wind chill factors to make growing our favorite plants (which are roses of course! :-)) all the more challenging. In past years I have been frequently been pleasantly surprised by roses that I've thought were gonners fully reviving into satisfying plants that have gone on to give me years of joy! Rosarians know that roses are FAR much tougher and easier to grow than many nonrosarians know! I'm gratefull that this spring in Spokane, WA has seen some nice and toasty days up to 70 F so far!! :-)

I never heard of mildew going away after june. I am concerned because some recently planted europena and Dublin Bay both have mildew problems. I was going to go after it with spray this weekend or toss the roses. They are both located in the same corner where I had America growing last year and it was filled with mildew and never went away. I welcome all advice. Judith P.

Both Chrysler Imperial and Europeana are well known for their mildew issues here in California. Mildew can be caused by several factors, as well as combinations of any and all of them. First is the genetic proclivity of the variety to mildew. Those genetically susceptible to mildew will require spraying for it in most climates. Immature plants are often more susceptible to diseases, so some may (or may not) out grow them. Weather conditions/time of year can trigger mildew (rust and/or black spot) if you go through short periods where the conditions are more favorable to foster the fungal growth. Siting plays a huge part in many cases. Not providing sufficient air flow or sunlight can create micro climates where diseases proliferate. If you can keep the air flowing (without creating a wind tunnel), and at least five to six hours of sunlight (here in the west, particularly), you may help alleviate the issue. One of the most unbelieved causes of mildew (and other diseases) is water stress. If you don't seem able to eliminate the issue, check the water to make sure the plant is receiving enough. I can force just about any rose in my garden to rust or mildew just by keeping it chronically too dry. If you've corrected all the other possibilities and the plant still offends, and you don't want to spray, change the rose variety for one which is known to be more resistant to the particular disease. Kim

I dug around it. The big fat leaves are growing from above the soil where it was dormant. The tiny leaves are growing from way deep beneath the earth! So I broke off all the tiny leaf pieces

You need to dig down on the side where the cane with the tiny leaves was and find the bottom of that cane where it is growing out of the trunk under the ground and cut it off flush with the side of the trunk and then put the dirt you dug back. Just breaking off the cane or leaves does nothing except make it grow more.

Jackie

"...that was hardy down only to zone 6 rarely made it here."

There is either a typo or confusion in that statement (disregarding potential misrepresentation on labels).

Needing a heat zone map or guide is, of course, a matter of opinion: however, well written reports of USDA hardiness zones EXCLUDE zones where COLD isn't an issue but the plant would not thrive or survive because of the heat. For example: Zones 6-8 (not 1 -5 nor 9 or warmer).

IF more people would study, research, and learn in order to be better gardeners, there would be fewer complaints about such things. No amount of guidance will provide success like knowledge, skill, and experience. Ultimately the onus is upon the person planting.

Fortunately, heat is mostly not an issue for ROSES grown with good cultural practices (zones 10+ excluded).

There is a Heat Zone Map done by the American Horticultural Society - link below.

Here is a link that might be useful: American Horticultural Society Gardening Maps

The USDA Hardiness zones are based on average lows over a set period of time and the temperature spreads used to indicate what is typical for each zone show those average ranges. They do not show the coldest temperatures recorded in each zone - statements like "we had a Zone _ winter" are meaningless when based on one or a few low temperatures, there is no individual temperature associated with any one zone specifically.

I have had temperatures below 10 degrees F. at least a few times here. That does not put me in Zone 7, or mean that I "had a Zone 7 winter".

Zip code based zone finders always put me in the wrong zone (7), catalogs frequently say Zone 8 plants are hardy to Zone 7 - this no doubt again based on the idea that if a plant survives something between 0 and 10 degrees F. that means it is hardy to "Zone 7 temperatures". Nevermind that some day it will have to come through -5 degrees F., -10 degrees F. or worse to persist in Zone 7.

And I think anyway many items are being rated by venders as hardy to Zone 7 because they start to kill back or die outright at around 10 degrees F. - an obvious fudging from the start, apart from the other factors involved.

Kate
Thanks about the David Austins; i have always loved them. Wedgwood looks divine and has a small as well. How does it do in terms of repeat?

And I used to buy bare rooted, but it is too late now . So I will have to buy plants. This might limit my choices somewhat. I have decided I will have room for 4 climbers!
Diane_NJ- how does Caramel Fairy Tale do in terms of repeat? any fragrance? Again I might have trouble finding this year, but for a spectacular rose I suppose I could wait until fall.

Kate, where have you seen these in the New York area? There aren't a lot of places around here where the public has access to roses grown no spray, and I'm always on the lookout for visiting possibilities.

Along the same lines, Sailgranny, if you do decide to plant some Easy Elegance roses, do post an update on how they do for you. I've also been interested in them for a while, but put off by the total lack of local, no spray input. I'm not currently planting at home, but at a public garden. So instead of planting onesies and twosies, I'm dealing with twentyies and thirtyies. It makes it hard to stray from the beaten path.

I've seen some pretty horrific pruning jobs that sprang back better than ever. It's like Kim said, if it has the strength it will find a way to grow. I'm seeing many of mine out there that will probably need to be pruned to the graft but I'm not worried yet. Once they're pruned and things really warm up I'm betting most of them will rebound.

That's what I've seen repeatedly for over thirty years, Seil. As long as they're not eaten into or past the bud union, roses attacked by deer and rabbits usually come back too. Add to it Syl Arena's laughing comment years ago about customers wanting long canes with long roots, and he'd go out to the fields, rip a budded plant from the ground, whack it back to the nubs on both top and bottom and it would always explode into growth when planted in his gardens. As long as the plant isn't dried out, frozen beyond resurrection or otherwise too awfully stressed, it will do all it can to make a liar out of you. Just like dogs and kids! Kim