22,795 Garden Web Discussions | Roses

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henry_kuska

Bart, I did a quick Google search and found this:

"2 Uncoated Aspirin.......pushed 2" into soil on opposite sides of plant*"

"AspirinâÂÂs ingredient, salicylic acid, has been found by the University of Florida and USDA researchers to activate and boost a plantâÂÂs SAR (Systemic Acquired Resistance) against bacterial, fungal and viral diseases. When sprayed with the aspirin/water mixture (1 ý aspirins to 2 gallons of water mixed with 2 tablespoons of a surfactant such as mild soap or anti-transpirant) every 3 weeks, it not only improved the plantâÂÂs resistance to disease, but also improved growth, increased fruit size and production. Tomato expert Steve Goto found that putting the aspirin directly in the soil next to the plant is also an effective way to increase the SAR."

http://www.gardenlife.com/store/information/tips
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Myself, I would like to see a controlled experiment concerning the soil application before recommending it. Maybe it could be used as a school science project.

Here is a link that might be useful: link for above

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bart_2010(8/9 Italy)

Thank you, Henry. I may try it...though please don't expect me to do it in a controlled, scientific manner,lol! That's really not my thing at all...
I like the idea of trying the soil application,for several reasons. Mainly, because I want to switch over to a no-spray garden, which means "don't spray ANYTHING". Apart from environmental/health reasons,it's also getting to be just too impractical. My garden keeps getting bigger; it's on a steep slope, and faces South-west. It's in the woods, with no electricity or other unnatural light source and far from my home as well,so here under the blistering sun of Italy, this means that spraying the whole thing requires efforts ever more Herculean,and I'm just beginning to think it's totally not worth it. But sticking stuff in the ground is a different story: no need to worry about burning the foliage,etc.thanks for your help,once again! bart

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countrygirl_sc, Upstate SC(7a)

Several years ago I thought I had RRD although I had never had it in my yard and have seen no signs of it in my area . I even mentioned to my DH that if I didn't know better, I would think someone had been spraying Round-up. I live way out in the country so that seemed to be impossible to me. Then we discovered my mother had been spraying Round-Up in my yard in areas where she walked to look at my gardens. (We are not close and she comes into my yard when we are not home.) When I think of the roses that I dug, bagged up, and sent to the landfill, probably close to 100 or more, some that are not available anymore, some that were very special to me and I cannot replace.......not to mention the $$. I still want to cry......but she is not spraying Round-Up in my yard anymore.

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mark_roeder(4B IA)

I took about 16 or more roses out of my garden about 8 years ago because of it. There were a few roses that didn't have it too bad, and on those I pruned the bad stuff out.

It's nerve racking to prune it out, but it seems to spread from the top, down and if you prune it out sometimes you save the bush.

Vigilance is the key. I didn't know what I had, at first, and the lack of any plan to stop it, allowed its spread.

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seil zone 6b MI

Thanks, Kim!

I'll be looking for that report, Kes. I love sports They're fun to keep track of. If it does continue to have the different bloom try rooting a cutting of it and see if it remains mutated too.

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roseseek(9)

My pleasure! Good luck with the potential sport. They are FUN! Kim

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michaelg(7a NC Mts)

It would be highly unusual or nearly impossible for RRD to first appear on two basal shoots. Infection always occurs above ground where a mite has landed. Usually they infect a latent growth bud in a leaf axil, leading to a sick lateral shoot. Occasionally, it might start in the growth tip of one basal shoot.

Basal breaks on 'Prairie Sunrise' are kind of odd-looking anyway.

Incidentally, it's one of Buck's best roses, with a very large, fragrant flower.

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tigerloveroses

I feel your pain:) had the same thing happen to me...freaked out over a weird new shoot and proceeded to destroy what,in hindsight,I think was a perfectly good rose...an old ,wise nursery employee told me:when you'll have red on a rose their wouldn't be any doubt...so,if your not sure,it's probably not it.

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phasedweasel(7b)

Thanks, this is really helpful. The Dawns look like excellent candidates, and I may put one in next spring. The info on the wild heritage roses is also fascinating.

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anntn6b(z6b TN)

In agreement with New Dawn. Look for a tip rooted start (or a start where a cane has touched ground.) Or take a brick and help a long cane stay in contact with the ground through summer and early fall.

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michaelg(7a NC Mts)

That's a pretty thorough job of enabling, upstream.

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seil zone 6b MI

Oh, Michael, really? Us? Enable? ROFL!

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mainemom

Thank you all for your input. I thought maybe thrips were to blame, but a closer look inside the bloom leads me to think proliferation is the answer. I'm glad to hear that possibly a rose can grow out of it. I hope mine does, because I love this rose!

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roseseek(9)

Yup, proliferation. Michael, grow Tequilla Sunrise. Every time I fed it anything with nitrogen, it threw proliferated blooms until the nitrogen either flushed through or was mostly used up. I could force that one to proliferate. Kim

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buford(7 NE GA)

I have this happen on several roses. Mostly in the spring. It seems if they grow quickly, if we have a lot of rain, the canes don't get hardened off enough and the weight of the cane pulls it off. Usually right where the cane meets another cane or the graft. I've been guilty of causing this by brushing up against new canes, they can be very delicate.

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veryzer

Yeah, Predfern, my fertilizing regimen has been consistent, too. I did have to prune WS2000, along with my other roses, nearly to the ground. I guess they're just more susceptible than my other varieties.

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seil zone 6b MI

Sorry to say that that looks dead. If you are purchasing bagged bare root roses at this time of year chances are most of them are already too far gone when you get them to make it. Those roses were harvested last fall. They were dug up, stripped of all their leaves, soil and a lot of their roots and chopped off top and bottom to fit in those bags. Then they were placed in cold storage all winter to go to the stores in February and March. Now they've been sitting on a store shelf since then with no care or water of any kind. The store is cutting the prices to get rid of them, and that's appealing, but they really aren't worth the money. If you have a good nursery near you I'd suggest you go pick out a nice potted rose that's already growing and healthy and start with that.

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ngardener123(5a)

I think you are right. The ones kept dying are the replacements I bought from late April to June, and the first batch I bought in early March are fine. Thanks for the useful information!

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dragonfly_field(8)

Hello I'm new here, but couldn't help myself from commenting! Your pictures are all beautiful! ! I am a huge fan of all the bright colors, it looks so happy. :) You have done a very nice job!!

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johnnycabot(Z4b MI.)

WELCOME Jessica; Your garden is lovely! What a wonderful home you have made. Gardening is a most therapeutic hobby, it refreshes the soul and exercises the body. Nice to meet you!

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seil zone 6b MI

You need not be ashamed at all! You got a lovely rose and a great deal!

No, it's not too late to plant potted roses at all. Bare roots, yes...maybe, lol...but potted roses should go right into the ground or transplant without a blink. Just try not to disturb the existing root ball. It probably doesn't even need to go into the shade. I'm sure it's been out in full sun at the nursery for weeks already. Treat it just like all your other roses and it should do fine.

I would say you can plant potted roses all through June and maybe into July depending on how hot your weather is. If it's scorching hot it's probably not the best time to plant anything but if not go for it. I've dug out vigorous and healthy roses and transplanted them in mid July and other than a touch of transplant wilt, which some good watering took care of, they took off and did great. Know your roses and your weather and play it by that.

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farmerduck

Also, I think that some of the DA potted roses are actually own roots. As far as I can tell, the latest (and last, I hope) DA potted rose I got is own root.

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dragonfly_field(8)

Thank you that is good to know! We are renting now and hopefully will have our own home in a year or two and eventually they will probably be planted in the ground, but for a year or two at the least they will stay in pots. It's very wet where I am and rains most of the year except july and August. June and September are usually dry as well, the rest of the years is often soggy. Not sure if that makes any difference.

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seil zone 6b MI

Except when you're gradually potting up very tiny seedlings or cuttings bigger is usually better for roses. They can't grow to their true potential if they don't have the pot room to build a big enough root ball to support the top growth.

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gr8heather(6b)

The mini could be rainbows end... I'll have to watch it and see how the colors develop. :) thanks

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roseseek(9)

Yes, you can cross large roses with minis. Kim

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Rosecandy VA, zone 7

Okay, so they aren't a problem for me then. Thanks everyone!

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iris_gal(z9 CA)

I have wondered about these so did a little search. From Wikipedia:

In the adult form, it eats and damages leaves of many crops, including cucumbers, soybeans, cotton, beans, and many others. In the larval form, which is known as the southern corn rootworm, it tunnels through the roots of young plants, stunting or killing them. These native pests have a wide range of host plants, but will readily infest a field of crop plants, most notoriously corn.

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hoovb zone 9 sunset 23

Do you have some hot weather expected? A stretch of cool over cast weather is best for transplanting. Disturbing the rootball as little as possible, and possibly some temporary shade can help for a smoother transition.

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seil zone 6b MI

Go ahead and move them. Dig and prep the new homes first, dig BIG root balls and try not to lose any soil or roots if possible when moving it, replant in new spots and WATER! And keep them watered but not soggy wet. They may wilt a tad at first but should soon perk back up. Don't fertilize them until you see new growth on them. They should be AOK!

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