22,795 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
Several years ago I thought I had RRD although I had never had it in my yard and have seen no signs of it in my area . I even mentioned to my DH that if I didn't know better, I would think someone had been spraying Round-up. I live way out in the country so that seemed to be impossible to me. Then we discovered my mother had been spraying Round-Up in my yard in areas where she walked to look at my gardens. (We are not close and she comes into my yard when we are not home.) When I think of the roses that I dug, bagged up, and sent to the landfill, probably close to 100 or more, some that are not available anymore, some that were very special to me and I cannot replace.......not to mention the $$. I still want to cry......but she is not spraying Round-Up in my yard anymore.
I took about 16 or more roses out of my garden about 8 years ago because of it. There were a few roses that didn't have it too bad, and on those I pruned the bad stuff out.
It's nerve racking to prune it out, but it seems to spread from the top, down and if you prune it out sometimes you save the bush.
Vigilance is the key. I didn't know what I had, at first, and the lack of any plan to stop it, allowed its spread.
It would be highly unusual or nearly impossible for RRD to first appear on two basal shoots. Infection always occurs above ground where a mite has landed. Usually they infect a latent growth bud in a leaf axil, leading to a sick lateral shoot. Occasionally, it might start in the growth tip of one basal shoot.
Basal breaks on 'Prairie Sunrise' are kind of odd-looking anyway.
Incidentally, it's one of Buck's best roses, with a very large, fragrant flower.
I feel your pain:) had the same thing happen to me...freaked out over a weird new shoot and proceeded to destroy what,in hindsight,I think was a perfectly good rose...an old ,wise nursery employee told me:when you'll have red on a rose their wouldn't be any doubt...so,if your not sure,it's probably not it.
I have this happen on several roses. Mostly in the spring. It seems if they grow quickly, if we have a lot of rain, the canes don't get hardened off enough and the weight of the cane pulls it off. Usually right where the cane meets another cane or the graft. I've been guilty of causing this by brushing up against new canes, they can be very delicate.
Sorry to say that that looks dead. If you are purchasing bagged bare root roses at this time of year chances are most of them are already too far gone when you get them to make it. Those roses were harvested last fall. They were dug up, stripped of all their leaves, soil and a lot of their roots and chopped off top and bottom to fit in those bags. Then they were placed in cold storage all winter to go to the stores in February and March. Now they've been sitting on a store shelf since then with no care or water of any kind. The store is cutting the prices to get rid of them, and that's appealing, but they really aren't worth the money. If you have a good nursery near you I'd suggest you go pick out a nice potted rose that's already growing and healthy and start with that.
You need not be ashamed at all! You got a lovely rose and a great deal!
No, it's not too late to plant potted roses at all. Bare roots, yes...maybe, lol...but potted roses should go right into the ground or transplant without a blink. Just try not to disturb the existing root ball. It probably doesn't even need to go into the shade. I'm sure it's been out in full sun at the nursery for weeks already. Treat it just like all your other roses and it should do fine.
I would say you can plant potted roses all through June and maybe into July depending on how hot your weather is. If it's scorching hot it's probably not the best time to plant anything but if not go for it. I've dug out vigorous and healthy roses and transplanted them in mid July and other than a touch of transplant wilt, which some good watering took care of, they took off and did great. Know your roses and your weather and play it by that.
Thank you that is good to know! We are renting now and hopefully will have our own home in a year or two and eventually they will probably be planted in the ground, but for a year or two at the least they will stay in pots. It's very wet where I am and rains most of the year except july and August. June and September are usually dry as well, the rest of the years is often soggy. Not sure if that makes any difference.
I have wondered about these so did a little search. From Wikipedia:
In the adult form, it eats and damages leaves of many crops, including cucumbers, soybeans, cotton, beans, and many others. In the larval form, which is known as the southern corn rootworm, it tunnels through the roots of young plants, stunting or killing them. These native pests have a wide range of host plants, but will readily infest a field of crop plants, most notoriously corn.
Go ahead and move them. Dig and prep the new homes first, dig BIG root balls and try not to lose any soil or roots if possible when moving it, replant in new spots and WATER! And keep them watered but not soggy wet. They may wilt a tad at first but should soon perk back up. Don't fertilize them until you see new growth on them. They should be AOK!
Bart, I did a quick Google search and found this:
"2 Uncoated Aspirin.......pushed 2" into soil on opposite sides of plant*"
"AspirinâÂÂs ingredient, salicylic acid, has been found by the University of Florida and USDA researchers to activate and boost a plantâÂÂs SAR (Systemic Acquired Resistance) against bacterial, fungal and viral diseases. When sprayed with the aspirin/water mixture (1 ý aspirins to 2 gallons of water mixed with 2 tablespoons of a surfactant such as mild soap or anti-transpirant) every 3 weeks, it not only improved the plantâÂÂs resistance to disease, but also improved growth, increased fruit size and production. Tomato expert Steve Goto found that putting the aspirin directly in the soil next to the plant is also an effective way to increase the SAR."
http://www.gardenlife.com/store/information/tips
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Myself, I would like to see a controlled experiment concerning the soil application before recommending it. Maybe it could be used as a school science project.
Here is a link that might be useful: link for above
Thank you, Henry. I may try it...though please don't expect me to do it in a controlled, scientific manner,lol! That's really not my thing at all...
I like the idea of trying the soil application,for several reasons. Mainly, because I want to switch over to a no-spray garden, which means "don't spray ANYTHING". Apart from environmental/health reasons,it's also getting to be just too impractical. My garden keeps getting bigger; it's on a steep slope, and faces South-west. It's in the woods, with no electricity or other unnatural light source and far from my home as well,so here under the blistering sun of Italy, this means that spraying the whole thing requires efforts ever more Herculean,and I'm just beginning to think it's totally not worth it. But sticking stuff in the ground is a different story: no need to worry about burning the foliage,etc.thanks for your help,once again! bart