22,795 Garden Web Discussions | Roses

Tying the canes with jute or wrapping the bottom of the plant with burlap will prevent the canes from breaking off at the bud union if they are covered with heavy snow. Something to remember if you get that unusually early winter storm before the trees have dropped their leaves. My highly effective winter protection consists of wrapping the tender roses with burlap. How many rosarians grow more than 200 roses in Z6 and lose less than one rose a year?

Yes, stake and tie for winter, prune in the spring. You want to leave as much stored energy in those canes as possible for the spring. You will probably still lose some of it to the winter winds but you'll have some left to start out with next season. In at least 40 years of growing roses I've never lost a cane at the bud union to snow weight. Snow is a great insulator and I usually shovel snow on to my roses in the winter.

Glad you like the rose chaos - wading through them to deadhead isn't fun in shorts, but I've developed my "karate kid" crane walk to minimize the damage.

Arlene - FWIW, all of mine are in no more than 5-6 hours of sun, since they're between two houses. The main effect of less than 8 hours of sun is somewhat reduced bloom or cycles. For instance, my Queen of Sweden in this spot doesn't bloom as much or often as the one on the sunny side of the house, but like you say, if that's what you have to work with, you don't have a choice. Particularly with climbing roses, they are able to stretch up a bit for the sun, so you have to make sure to stretch them horizontally as much as possible to keep them from having little tufts of bloom in the sunniest spots and bare legs. High Country Roses is where I got my Ramblin' Red from, and they have very healthy plants.

Cynthia

Thanks to all who pointed me to High Country Roses. I sent them a note and they did have a few Ramblin Reds in stock and it is now back available to order on their website. I think I will start my "wall" with RR and see if I can fit more in there after it matures a bit. The key will be finding shade tolerant climbers that look good together I think. I also need to heavily amend the bed where it will go. Oh, how the to-do list grows...

I used to love it, but it's been absent since the drought. However, I can well remember the euphoria of stepping into the garden and seeing everything in full bloom. Perhaps it will happen next spring if and when the anticipated huge El Nino arrives, and then I'll probably take a thousand pictures just in case it never happens again here.

Thanks so much everyone. Judy, I love seeing all the beautiful roses you cut, they're gorgeous. Carol, you definitely make the most of your short growing season, I love your roses! Seil, I agree, everything does look beautiful and healthy when they begin to bloom. Patty, in this picture I have Bewitched, Tiffany, Pink Peace, Perfume Delight and the one lonely yellow is Midas Touch. It used to be my favorite yellow HT, it was so vigorous and healthy. I was looking at the bush this evening and it is looking a lot better, hope it really starts doing its thing next year. Ingrid, I do hope you start getting the rain I know you need and you can get really excited about your roses again. I can relate somewhat to your situation, but I don't think we've had it quite as bad here.

Many of the Kordes roses will grow into monsters in mild climates. I've seen Beverly shoot up 8 foot basal breaks late in the season.

It sounds like you bought a small own root plant. It takes a year or more to form a nice plant from a small band pot and to do that it needs 5 or 6 soft pinches to form multiple canes. If this is not done then what will happen is one very strong, very long, super cane. So yes pinch it back now - encourage breaks so that it is a well balanced plant. It is best to prune back these strong canes early, as letting them grow tall takes energy from the plant that could be used to from more breaks.

I have several own root Beverly in USDA Zone 8 and it is not a "monster plant". They are 3-5 years old and under 4.5 feet tall with about 10 major canes. Beverly is a highly productive bloomer and repeats very well. I prune in early spring to about 2.5 feet and I do prune back spent blooms down 2-3 leaflets. I give it a well balanced fertilizer three times from early spring and stopping in mid August.

You dead head a climber the same way you dead head any rose. I usually just snap off the spent bloom right below the hip but you can also cut them off down to a leaf set if you want to. If you have your climber spread horizontally and the blooms are on a lot of lateral branches you can cut those laterals back to one or two leaf sets and it should grow out new laterals that will bloom.

Interesting, Patty. I do usually dead head my Home Run just to keep it neater looking but I was told this season, by someone who knows the breeder, that you're not supposed to dead head it. If left alone it's supposed to produce the next flush of blooms quicker. So I haven't done any dead heading on it this year and I don't have a single hip on it! And, to tell the truth, I don't think it rebloomed any faster either, lol!

Seil do you think perhaps he was calling it deadheading as in how you would a hybrid tea. Since Home Run begins to regrow from right underneath the current bud. It does take quite a while to re-bloom if cut back instead of just removing the bloom.

I am in Southern Oregon, zone 8, with hot summers.

Hi mscamille, I am in southern Idaho with hot, dry summers (I'm sure you are not so dry; I love southern Oregon). Anyway, Julia Child takes the heat well, and would be a good selection if you can keep her small enough for your spot. She's a near constant bloomer, with lovely, rounded growth habit. Diane

Which leaves the 'looseness' of the petals. I associate Lavaglut with tight spirals of closely spaced petals. Especially in late fall, it's almost impossible to see if the petals are alive or if they've dried in place and slightly lost their substance.

Is there any chance that your plant is picking up PM from another genus somewhere in the vicinity and showing symptoms that aren't 'normal' for roses?

One thing (spring thing...but grasping at straws....)do the receptacles show PM? That's what we see in my part of the country on some of the early 1900 ramblers whose foliage stays pretty clean.

This is the summer blooms at their end & they tend to be more open then spring blooms here. I'm in z4 so only get a good spring & summer bloom cycle, fall bloom cycle iffy, only get a good one every 4-5 years when Mother Nature decides to give me a few extra weeks of frost free weather. Because I live in western WI, just 50-75 east of the beginning of the northern US & Canadian Plains with no large water mass or mountains to temper the weather coming off the Plains, it makes rose growing verrrry interesting.

My favorite rose quote is one that's posted in my office: "We can either complain because roses have thorns or rejoice because thorns have roses".

My other favorite is a general garden quote: "Gardening is a way of showing that we believe in tomorrow".

Cynthia

Yes, those are nice. I've never heard the second one.

Applying sulfur as dust probably should call for a particle respirator as you will be surrounded by clouds of it. Also it doesn't stick through a light rain as spray with a little soap does, and you will use so much more sulfur that it will affect soil pH. So if anybody wants to use sulfur, I recommend micronized sulfur and a tank sprayer.

Not really no clouds, a simple mask will do. Easiest method is putting sulfur in a pantyhose and attach to a stick then shake over plant. There are also special applicators. This method is used traditionally on grape vines. If leaves are slightly damp (say from a dewy night) sulphur sticks just fine. You don't need to cover the whole plant since, as mentioned, it works mostly by sublimation. Not much hits the ground but, where I come from, this would hardly matter since we live on lime... Much, much cheaper and very effective.. But ugly in a garden.

Yes. Re-post under Chili Thrips. That could be the issue.

Or take a couple of those smudgy leaves to the county agent's office (ag extension or cooperative extension).