22,151 Garden Web Discussions | Roses

Looks like HEIRLOOM to me.

Check out his photo I found on web for Heirloom Rose, someone in generic rose forum suggested this. Seems very close. Angel face is described as fruity and my rose's fragrance is quite dusky.

Watch Paul zimmermans video

I did watch it but didn't think it at all fit my situation. That was a rose with very long laterals and not much of a bush. Mine is already well formed. I just was afraid it was too late to prune it. But I went ahead and shaped it up today and will post pictues when it blooms. Lots of leaves have come out even though we had 22 degrees on Wednesday. Its supposed to be almost 80 here this week. Go figure.

You have to be careful pushing plants in the spring. While the horrific spring freezes aren't really part of our experience, a big part of that is because spring moves slowly in this part of the world. So when the thermometer plummets in late April, instead of screaming about death and destruction, there isn't much out there yet to die.

The best way I've heard to try and game the system is to apply slow release *organic* fertilizer early. When the soil and plants wake up, it will start working. By an amazing coincidence, this is the same time that the plants will be able to make use of the fertilizer. Then, when they are actively growing in May, the regular fast acting fertilizing can start.

The biggest factor I've found in how well they are going to grow is heat. Without that, there isn't a lot you can do. That is the real gating factor. Not food, not water, but heat.

The only time I would use a fast nitrogen is if I was having a big party in my yard or a wedding or something. Then I would use Miracle Grow for roses. BUT it's been my experience that it comes with a price. One gets alot of top growth and the roses get so leggy they fall over. I only use that if I'm so impatient I can't stand it. Otherwise..good organic soil and fish fertilizer is my favorite.

Since this is a newly planted rose, I haven't had very many blooms yet (lots of buds). But it seems like the blooms I've had lasted a good while. I'm pretty novice at all this, so sorry for the stupid question: How long is long enough?

Thanks -jannike.

I have other, much nicer white roses so CA was one which hit the compost pile (something I do rarely) but it was such a feeble little thing, it only took a flick of the spade.

Wowser! Pappu, you're a master in this art! So glad you have a new garden awaiting your vision & skill. Thank you for sharing & thank you, andreark, for bringing this front & center again for our awe & delight!

Here is a link that might be useful: Pappu's Spring Flush '08

The pictures speak for themselves. My first reaction; mega dead head.

I agree with Jackie. Cut it way back. It will need time to regrow its root system and you don't need long canes competing with roots. I have always cut the canes back when moving climbers.

Exactly what I thought - just wanted to hear from the experts! Thanks!
Judith

It does well here in the heat and humidity of Florida and is a heavy bloomer so far.

SOUVENIR DE LA MALMAISON is beloved throughout the Mid-Atlantic and the Deep South. It does particularly well in heat and humidity when other roses fail. It is also more resistant to black spot than most modern roses. This petite Bourbon is considered a classic and a most have for those who adore Old Garden Roses. Although short (it tops out at 3 feet and just as wide) it is vigorous and grows well on its own roots. You should definitely get it.

Image of SdlM by Archduke-z7b-8a-DFX-TX at Hortiplex

I've had a huge climbing Pink Peace on the back garden wall for 15 years. After the initial flush it produces some crazy long new branches during the summer, maybe 7 to 10 feet long. I've found that if I cut the tip, and tie down the end lower than the spot where it emerged from, it will flower like a pegged rose, all along the cane, a couple months later. This is in Bakersfield, where we have a very long growing season.

IMO, 'Peace, Cl.' is magnificent -- superior in every way to the bush form. I've always been mystified by the fact that the bush form was always a BS magnet in my garden, while its climbing sport remains healthy and largely disease free all season. I know a couple of other gardeners here in coastal Carolina who've made the same observation. It seems to me that when 'Peace' produced this sport, more was gained than simply a propensity to climb.

I was surprised (and envious) to read above about a 'Peace, Cl' that blooms prolifically all season long. My plant blooms heavily in the spring and (sometimes) throws a moderate number of blooms in early to mid autumn. The climbing form of 'Peace' is indeed a rampant grower -- which, I think, has contributed to its less than stellar reputation. Some gardeners try to keep it in bounds by pruning it heavily, then complain bitterly because it doesn't produce. 'Peace, Cl' blooms only on old wood. Prune it heavily and regularly and you're guaranteed a bloom-free plant. If you don't have room for a magnificent (albeit essentially once-blooming), very rampant climber, forget about 'Peace, Cl'.

Another climbing HT sport that I've been very impressed with is 'Gruss an Aachen, Cl'. Roses Unlimited is now the only U.S. source for that one.

Isn't Bloodmeal the organic form of nitrogen? Not sure what you would use for the potassium.

There is a version of Osmacote which is high in nitrogen--like 19--and low in phosphate and potassium--like 4 or 5, if I remember correctly. It is one of the time-release fertilizers. Read the panel on the back to get the right version.

Kate

Blood meal for nitrogen and maybe banana peelings for potassium? There is also potassium phalsphate( Sp?). That's all I can think of ATM.

When we had our 3 story house painted we cut down all of the roses which were climbing on it (6 - 3 of which were huge monsters) to about 6-7 feet high. Then we wrapped them in burlap to protect them. The scaffolding was up for 5 weeks. By the end of the 5 weeks most of the roses had put out growth THROUGH the burlap! WIthin 1-2 years the roses were all as big as they had been before, and some of them looked better. So, when you or whoever get ready to stain your fence, you could wrap your roses in burlap - they should do fine that way for 2 months. Just a thought -

Jackie

Great idea, Jackie. They would only need to be wrapped for a few hours! I will try that. It is better than a second pruning, I think.

Rose de Rescht grew well in my zone 7a garden for over 20 years. The only thing that finally did it in was RRV (rrd).......Maryl

I find the ARS rose ratings to be a concise description of the quality and vigor of a rose.

Most roses rated 8.0 and higher are really good roses -- strong, vigorous plants and high-quality blooms.

Those rated lower than 6.0 tend to be problematic in one way or another.

Personally, I'm pleased when a rose I like has a high rating, but I also have many lower-rated roses that I love just as much.

Hello Christopher. Thanks for the post. They do look like the ones on my rose stem. I might hv better chances of getting something to get rid of them...Daughter is going to be thrilled :)

Thanks a lot!
Madhu.

If they are what my links showed, then I don't think you want to get rid of them, being as they feed on aphids. If it was me, I'd just leave it alone until the plant seemed to be showing signs of harm or damage if I wasn't sure what they are. BTW, do they ever move?

:-)

~Christopher

Diane, I think that the fact that the soil was built up over many years in my garden in Connecticut was the most important factor. It is really all about organics. As for triacontanol, it is a miracle substance apparently and it is available although very expensive. It has to be mixed with something that it will dissolve in and then with water and used as a foliar spray. I've never tried it and would be curious if anyone here ever has.

I'm in SoCal and would not dream of fooling around with alfalfa tea. Too much work, too heavy to water all the roses. I scatter pellets and they break down eventually. The alfalfa meal purchased in nurseries probably enters the soil faster, but it also blows around a lot when being applied.

I guess either way works.

You're welcome! Exogenous seed, those formed outside the hip itself, stand as good a chance of being viable as those inside the hip. Often, it simply means there wasn't enough room inside for them. I'd plant them anyway. You never know what will come up. Good luck with them! Kim

This post was edited by roseseek on Thu, Mar 27, 14 at 13:17

Thanks again for the helpful information Kim! I can't wait to see my first rose seedlings. :D

Most of the references I can find discuss root application (hydroponics or soil drenching). I wonder if foliar applications can be effective and if they might have some negative effect by limiting the ability of the leaf to perform its functions.

Will do a little testing and report back although a minimally scientific test will have to wait until next year when I will be able to obtain from the same source multiple copies of a rose known to mildew badly in my garden (Duchesse de Brabant springs to mind).

The concoction I have in hand is very alkaline (pH > 9) even when diluted at the recommended rate and I wonder if this property might just have some effect regardless of the silica content. The same might apply to the potassium carbonate that is bound with the silicon oxide.
Nik

This is a research leaf application paper.

http://hortsci.ashspublications.org/content/35/4/773.full.pdf

Here is a link that might be useful: link for above