22,795 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
Mad is right, they need cooler and damper conditions than most homes have. I can't give you exact figures because I really don't know. They also like good air circulation too so you'd need a fan to create some air movement. I guess if you can provide all of that it might work. But truthfully it will be a hard job to keep them happy. They're better off outside.
"The Effect of Photon Flux Density and Lighting Period on Growth, Flowering, Powdery Mildew and Water Relations of Miniature Roses"
See:
http://www.scirp.org/journal/PaperInformation.aspx?paperID=46556#.U5c9PvldWcU
Here is a link that might be useful: link for above
First, forget the pebbles or any other "stuff" in the pot bottoms. It doesn't help. Second, if you can safely remove the soil balls without them breaking up and messing up the root balls, you can safely repot the plants. If the root balls aren't sufficiently knit together so they don't break up, don't mess with them. It would be better to wait until the soil balls are sufficiently knit together so they come out whole, in one piece. If that's later this summer, do it later this summer. If it doesn't happen by late winter, early spring, when you would be planting bare roots anyway, wait until that time and repot them. If they break up and put the roses at risk because of the disturbance, at least it is the appropriate time of year for them to experience that disturbance. Good luck! Kim
Botrytis normally affects the outer petals most. On flowers it produces brown rotten spots, not usually noticeable gray fuzz, I have never seen or heard of the problem you describe on a HT. Some cluster-flowering roses abort some buds for mysterious reasons. The neck tissue turns reddish and then yellow.
Oh, Carol,
Your Perfume Delight was one of my earlier learning experiences. I had two of them. I loved the bloom color, the bloom form and (most of all) the scent.
And that's where the love stopped.
My two Perfume Delights had BLACK SPOT. The BS they had was the worst of any roses I've ever grown. It became a challenge to find a spray to suppress their BS. This challenge became more serious as they shared their BS with roses in the same bed, and the immediately down wind roses suffered.
Nothing worked to keep leaves on Perfume Delights . Nothing.
When I shovel pruned them in their fourth infected year, I felt a giant relief and the rest of the roses in that bed did much better without a source of problem so near by.
Splotches on the canes ....were worst on my Graham Stuart Thomas hedge of roses and on IIRC Patricia Austin. Those roses kept leaves with spraying fungicides.
Perfume Delight was a learning experience.
Ann (of the ethylene comment)
Date: 06-09-2014
Problems: I think Sunshine Daydream may be getting Blackspot. The picture shows a few yellowed leaves with spots. So far, they only appear on the lower portion of the rose bush, and are really close to the ground. I have also seen some yellow leaves on Fourth of July, Julia Child, and Roxy. But that may simply be natural aging of the leaves, some they only appear on the lowest portion of the rose bush, and well hidden by the leaves above.
But so far, Bolero, Dick Clark, and Knockout stay completely clean. But they don't have much leaves on the bottom to speak of, because of pruning and transplanting.
I don't see any yellow leaves on the Lady of Shalott.
In the past few days, temperature has been from 50's to 80's, with humidity in the range of 50% to almost 90%.
I love 'Sunshine Daydream'. Pretty in bud as well as opened. Lovely aged color too. I've heard yellow roses are the most susceptible color to blackspot. I'd be willing to spray with this one.
But 'Lady of Shalott' absolutely knocks me out. Incredible beauty that I finally saw in person this year.
Shoots from the graft and above cannot be rootstock unless they grafted rootstock on rootstock.
Tropicana has dark matte foliage, while Dr. Huey has glossy. Yours appears to be matte.
Tropicana has an awkward plant habit and does throw some long canes. Or it could be the climbing sport of Tropicana. Ordinarily I would expect most roses to have flower buds by this time of the year, but I wouldn't give up on it just yet. If it is the climber, canes might grow 7-8' before blooming.
This post was edited by michaelg on Mon, Jun 9, 14 at 16:14
I posted after seeing only your first photo. After looking at the newer pictures and close ups I rescind my first statement. If those canes are coming from ABOVE the graft, which they appear to be, they are probably Tropicana. They are just new young canes. I would wait and see if they bloom before doing anything else with it.
In order to post more than one picture at a time you have to put your photos on some kind of photo hosting site like Photobucket, Shutterfly or Picture Trail. Then from there you would copy and paste the HTML code into your post. You can post as many as you want that way.
Sara-Ann, thank you for the info, now I can't decide whether to dig it or leave it...I do have Columbus Queen that I suspect can use a better home, it's been a one-cane wonder with no sign of basal break :(
Seil, I think you are right, no amount of watering can competely replace rainfall. On that note, maybe I should cut back on the watering since it's not totally necessary to give them that much water.
I totally agree about the rain being better than just watering. It's amazing how quickly things can change with roses. Several of my roses are absolutely loaded with new growth. As an example, Tropicana, which I like very much and is a good rose for me is producing more buds than I have ever seen on that variety.
My choice is DEER. The local rose garden in the park had a HUGE deer problem until they had a twelve foot fence installed. Now the garden is lovely all year. If it is a chain link fence the deer can see what there is to eat and will happily leap a five foot fence.
It sounds exactly like what happened in my yard a few years ago. I fenced my front yard in. We pay through the nose in taxes for the previlege of living in one of the heavily regulated jurisdictions in the U.S. so the fence naturally cannot be go higher than 6 feet and cannot be anything less than cast iron or alumium under town ordinance. And of course that it does not work. To show their contempt at my feeble attempt to thwart them, a herd of day left an extraordinary amount of fecal matters on my walkway a few days after the fence was put in. So, in addition to the fence, I have been using a combination of Repellex (which supposeldy makes the roses taste bad to critters) and lots and lots of Milorganic (made from raw sewage, the stink is what supposedly repells deer). So far, so good. But I am knocking on wood as it only takes one deer to destroy my rose reason...
It's a coretta scott king grandiflora. From what I understand they are new this year. Seil thank you for the info . I had clay type soil but I dug out about a 3x3x3 spot and filled with 2/3 topsoil and 1/3 compost/manure blend. The rest of my plants have adapted but I want my roses to have perfect conditions. I have researched everything else pretty heavy but I couldn't find anything on the leaves
Here in NY its a lot different the fertilizer schedule. Here we wait till the roses leaf out completely and then I use Espoma Rose Tone around each plant -- I either wait for rain to be in the forecast to wash it in or if you do not mulch, you can scratch it into the soil. I also apply my 1st application of Epsom salts around each rose too. Figure about a half cup of the fertilizer and salts around each rose.
In May, June, July and August I feed again with the Rose Tone and in July I do my 2nd application of Epsom salts.
They do pretty well with this routine.
Jim I am a little surprised to hear that you don't fertilize anymore lol. Your roses always look so beautiful! You must have wonderful soil then! :)