22,795 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
Thank you every one, you guys are all so wonderful. Thanks Bonnie and Buford, thats a great idea to join the rose society. I did join a local rose society this year. I seem to have been bitten by the rose bug badly and buying rose bushes like crazy. Ordered from roses unlimited and got roses from Palatine roses this spring.
For people in zone 5 and colder, palatine roses has a good selection, they are grown in Canada, weather similar to zone 5 ( got to know about them through the local rose society) They are grafted bare root roses, but their roots are very robust.
For some reason my roses in containers are doing better than the ones in the ground. Will post pictures shortly.
Madri.
I know what you mean, bart. I always strategically plant 1-2 trees in the southwest corner and 1-2 trees somewhere along the western property line. Those spots give the best shade from our boiling hot late-afternoon/August sun. The flowers and bushes are planted in between or under the trees (shade plants) or to the east of the trees (which cast long shadows after 4:00 in the afternoon).
Morning sun is a whole different ball-game--take advantage of all the morning sun you can get.
Kate
I grow a lot of Knockout roses (200+), and many of them(150+) are under four Spruce pine trees, I cut down the lower branches for the sunlight, and they're are doing very well, I water them once a day during the hot and dry summer days (above 75ðF/24ðC). The hottest day here is under 90ðF/32ðC. They're wonderful landscaping roses, fill your gardens with colors, so my old garden roses can just take their time with no hurry....... :-)
This post was edited by Summerseve on Mon, Jun 9, 14 at 0:01
It looks splendid! I use soaker hoses too. I have a couple of beds that I have no way of running drip to and it's a little too pricey for me anyway so I did the soaker hoses instead. The roses do respond wonderfully to having a steady supply of water. I think in another recent thread someone else said the same thing. The most important ingredient seems to be water!
The blooms that were on it at the store were probably set in cooler conditions or in a greenhouse. That's why they were larger. Now that it's getting hotter where you are the blooms will naturally be smaller in size. The heat is probably also why the edges look a little burnt. Roses love sunshine but are not fond of high heat and will burn.
Without seeing a picture of the leaf damage I can't say what is eating them. Try blasting the undersides of the leaves with a hard spray of water and see if that helps. The yellow leaves at the bottom could just be old leaves that have served their purpose and are no longer feeding the plant so they die off and the plant sheds them.
Keep it well watered and when it starts to get very hot find a way to shade it. Even a lawn chair over it to keep some of the sun off will help.
If there is new growth you can go ahead and fertilize it but be careful. You don't want to burn it further. You can use any good balanced fertilizer, dry or liquid, organic or not, but maybe just start it out at half strength. Be sure to follow all other directs carefully. Water the rose before fertilizing and then again afterwards. Water helps the plant take up the nutrients. Do not fertilize if temperatures are above 80 degrees. Do it early in the morning or in the evening when the sun is less strong.
Roses are amazingly resilient and want to grow so most of all fret less and enjoy more!
As Seil said, this is probably transplant shock involving stronger sunlight and maybe disturbance of the roots. All you need to do is keep it watered but not saturated. In moderately warm weather, I water transplants thoroughly every three days. Fertilizing makes it harder for struggling plants to take up water.
I have paired the 2 grandifloras 'Strike It Rich' and 'About Face' next to each other on a western exposure where I had two huge 'Blue Muffin' viburnums that got out of hand for the space!! I am hoping that the two roses eventually get to about 5' high and about 3' wide. Yes, there will be space between them once they grow to maturity. Both were purchased from Roses Unlimited in April and I was lucky to have found them so late in the season. Most people who want a particular rose start ordering from online website in January/December to get their choices.
Down hill is better. The roots shouldn't want to travel up hill to the bed to get water and nutrients. Although they might! I'd still make it as far as possible away from the roses though.
Yes, roses are "shrubs" but they are also bloomers. Where most other types of shrubs are not or only once a season bloomers. Those will take the rest of the whole season to store enough energy to produce next years bloom. For roses to bloom repeatedly they need food, a lot of food. If they don't get enough sun, water and nutrients they'll grow adequately but they may not bloom at all.
I don't know anything about the root structure of Cypress trees so I can't say but trees in general will spread roots as far as they can, and the easiest they can, to get what they want. A nice tilled, watered and fertilized rose bed will be very attractive to them.
maybe not the answer you are looking for, and you probably thought of this already, but what about putting the roses in containers? Yes, they would have to be big, but then you could monitor the water/food situation, and move them if the trees are blocking them too much. I am picturing it in my mind and it is sure beautiful, big pots of roses between the Italian cypress. You have such a good selection of terracotta there in Italy too.
So true, Cross! I never trust the company hype any more. Early on I fell for several of those ad campaigns only to find the roses didn't perform anything like they said. I don't even trust the photos! But I've found that HMF really does try to give a true description of the rose in question. And the comments on the photos posted by the gardeners themselves of their actual experiences with a rose are invaluable! That's why I try to post photos and comments regularly.
Thank you Jim, Carol and Sammy. Sammy, I do believe my Perfume Delights are doing fine, I do appreciate your post, some good info..
Carol, I can't remember if you already have Perfume Delight or not. I was looking back at some old pictures and came across one of my Perfume Delights in a container and it was loaded with buds and blooms. It helped me remember that when I had one in a container it really was an excellent bloomer.
This post was edited by Sara-Ann on Sun, Jun 8, 14 at 7:18
Olympiad planted last year has got everything right except fragrance. Firefighter in front was he runt before it went in the ground and then has grown like crazy. Chrysler Imperial started off good, got attacked by mildew and has been in a funk since. All the other HT have started another growth spurt.
Nick - Good luck with your Love Song, it is a beautiful rose and hopefully yours will do fine, I think you will really enjoy it, it's a good bloomer. Love your picture desertgarden. Boncrow, both of mine have good repeat bloom. This bloom was from my recent spring flush.
I have Vineyard Song! It is really cute and I love it. And the fragrance is very pleasant.
I guess must have I ordered it five or six years ago, I forgot from where, but it was a very very small band and didn't make it over the winter -- so I thought. A teeny- tiny little shoot must have survived, which I nurtured, not knowing what it was anymore, the label having disappeared. This spring I found what I thought was a rose seedling with tiny leaves growing in a pot and that I thought I would keep, just to see what it was. Lo and behold it this spring it had lovely fluffy, rosey-lilac flowers and was sweetly fragrant. I thought it was a mini-rose, perhaps, but didn't remember purchasing one. I would have remembered buying such an unusually fragrant mini rose. I compared it to Sweet Chariot, which I also have, and which is doing fine. Not that. When I investigated, thinking to transplant it from its pot to a permanent position, I found a woody twig under the soil from which it was growing and realized it had never been a seedling, and it was a ringer in all respects (except for its tininess) for Vineyard song. I can't really remember ordering it, but I have nurtured along several other twigs in pots that got injured over the winter in years gone by and lost their labels, subsequently. I thought were done for for sure: they are Autumn damask and The Nun -- they are also both now blooming still in their pots (abeit as rather small spindly plants). Strangely, this tough winter, which has been so hard on the hydrangeas, has not affected them. I guess they were all saved by the snow cover that lingered in the spot by the north-facing wall where they all winter over. No photo, alas.
I just had my first experience with canker. I had ordered a Rosa Gypsy Carnival from ebay because I could absolutley not find it any where. I thankfully planted it in a stone pot instead of putting it in my rose garden. It was an bare root rose and I did all the things you do when you plant a bare root rose. The canes began getting dark brown on the tips of the canes. I would prune it and come back a few days later and it had moved down the cane. I again pruned it back.. After only a few weeks it had taken over ever new bud that tried to form on the cane.. I think this was canker but since I had never dealth with it before I wasn't sure, but from what I read and how fast it was moving I wasn't taking any chances. I through it in the garbage, not the compost bin. Emptied out all the dirt in the pot in a area that nothing grows.. I cleaned out the expensive stone pot with a clorox. I hope this kills it because I would hate to destroy the pot. I guess leaving it in the hot sun to bake for a month will definitely kill it. I have heard that Rose Canker is almost impossible to kill if you can't control it with pruning. Please let me know if you have any expert advice
Don't kill the rose. Canker is not some exotic disease that spreads like wildfire. It is common and almost normal. Spores are in every rose garden and infections develop around wounds to the bark during cool damp weather. Cankers kill a patch of bark and then tend to go inactive as the weather warms. A traditional rule of thumb is to prune if the canker girdles over 1/2 of the diameter. I prune out larger cankers at spring pruning and then don't worry about it for the rest of the season.
Copper and sulfur fungicides are considered "organic."
That is really good to know about Eden being a somewhat finicky rose depending on the area. That is another lovely picture. My mother-in-law and father-in-law visited Vancouver Island and showed my gorgeous pictures. Even though these are not good roses for your area, I'm sure there are so many stunning roses that you are able to grow that I can't. I'm really hoping the Eden and Balero will both do well for me. Does BS stand for Black Spot? I'm sorry, I'm really new to growing roses. The only rose I've ever grown before recent is the iceberg rose... which is an amazing rose for my area. It performs like none other. Here's a picture of it growing at my old house where it was grown in under a patio cover, so it didn't get the ideal amount of sun... yet it still bloomed almost year round for me.
BS is blackspot, yes. It is not a debilitating disease in Southern California. In other climates especially east of the Rockies, it can be so devastating as to kill a rose, because the rose cannot hold any foliage, goes into a harsh winter weak, and doesn't survive the winter. Here it's a minor annoyance, mostly in rainy winters.