21,402 Garden Web Discussions | Roses




This guy has an interesting approach...lol
Here is a link that might be useful: Getting rid of fungus gnats

Anything can be grown in a pot. The pot just has to be the right size, and in the case of zone 5, winter protection is needed. The usual recommendation for roses is a pot at least 20" in diameter for a non-baby rose. If it proves to needs more space than 20", at that point you get a bigger pot.

I revived this because I was just outside cutting a gorgeous bloom from Voodoo to bring in the house, and thinking about how much I appreciate that rose...
It has a very leafy-shrubby habit for a HT, and is a bloom machine, at least for me. It gets a little PM but no BS/cercospora/anything else, however I'm 20 minutes from the water so roses have to be genetic freaks to NOT get PM here.
It has a great fragrance and vase life too...if you haven't thought of it, I'd highly recommend it.

I adore my Honeysweet. Most unusual color, no blackspot for me, blooms lots. Its a Buck rose and tough. One of my favorite apricots is the Austin Carding Mill. I understand Chamblees will be carrying that soon own root - I plan to get several. I adore Fragrant Apricot [Roses Unlimited]. I had Belle Epoque a while back but wasn't that crazy about the color. When it died, I wasn't interested in replacing it, but that was just my opinion - you might love it. I adore apricots and love the pure, clear color such as Carding Mill, Tamora, Just Joey. If I ever ran across a good plant of Just Joey I would get it - have seen photos of huge blooms, but understand the bush is gangly. The blooms would make up for it........

Yes, I would describe it as apple green. None of mine are terribly thick yet, but new growth is very flexible. Thanks for the advice regarding the water Kim. Michael I will grab a leaf or two in the morning and post them, thanks. Jackie that is encouraging. I shouldn't have to wait long. Roses do much better here in the winter, so when it cools down it may bloom in it's 5th year.


I overwinter many in the garage. I believe the rule is 3 nights of 32 in a row before they are brought in. Usually after thanksgiving in my zone.I have a garden trolley so I can bring them in and out in early winter and spring. I keep them off of the cement but I believe there is no real reason for this via MichaelG. I keep them in a corner away from the windows, bit there is still diffused light. I also water once a month. If they begin to sprout too early it is the soft green growth, and I pinch it off before the official outdoor growing season begins. You should also be aware of aphids and such in the spring and treat accordingly. The most important thing about dormancy for any rose is making sure it is as healthy as possible before it goes to sleep....and prayer...lol. I try to mimic the weather for dormancy minus the gruesome temps and gale force winds.

This post was edited by susan4952 on Thu, Sep 26, 13 at 22:54

Our curled rose slugs need to read this info because they are here in our garden from May until frosts...
I had them id-ed at Penn State University a few years back...
We have regular rose slugs also but there only here for about 4-6 weeks or so...
This post was edited by jim1961 on Thu, Sep 26, 13 at 22:48

Michael's right, that the dividing line of 1867 doesn't make a whole bunch of sense -- and to be honest, I'm not sure it ever did.
We typically discuss under the "Old Rose" umbrella classes Species roses. We also include classes such as the Polyanthas, and what ARS defines as "Classic Shrubs" (which includes the HMs).
Given the age of the early HTs, I mentally fold them into that group. 'Lady Mary Fitzwilliam,' (see below, collected as "Whittle-Byer") 'Mme. Caroline Testout,' et al -- they're old enough for ME.
Jeri

Andrea - I have lots of large trees too. One thing my DH and I have done is find a sunny spot (usually a corner next to the house) of the driveway that the cars don't actually ever drive on. Then he digs up the paving, so that there is a circle of dirt. Then he digs up the dirt so it is soft. Then we get a LARGE pot and he takes off the bottom, or drills lots of large holes in the bottom of it, and we plant a rose there. Eventually the roots go down into the real dirt and the rose goes up, and is very happy.
Here is a picture of the old tea rose Anna Olivier growing in just such a place - there is only about 15 inches between the wall of the house you can see and the driveway. This rose was planted actually in a rectangular planter (with its bottom cut out as described) in that space 15 years ago, and it is still very happy.
Jackie


That kind of mottling indicates that the leaves are just dying without being killed by fungus or infected by virus. You can expect some old leaves to die like that normally, but not that many. I think it is probably overwatering. You should repot into a 16" pot, remove any sour soil and rotted roots, and LOSE THE GRAVEL LAYER. You will have to trust me on this, but it is established beyond doubt that "drainage layers" make drainage worse. They create a saturated layer in the potting soil just above.
Then water less often than you have been. The sign of underwatering would be that the plant stops growing and shoots go "blind" without flowering.

Dormant: not growing. The new growth will be burnt--you will prune that off in spring. Mature leaves of repeat-blooming roses will not drop in fall but will be injured by temperatures around 10 or 15, This is not a true deciduous dormancy; the roses will grow out whenever temperatures average above 40 for a while.
Terra cotta pots may break when exposed to temperatures below 20 for some hours because the rootball expands when frozen. It may be OK under a pile of leaves.
Again, you should take the rose outside and grow it normally for the next month or so.


I love these photos of your giants, kitty. I guess this time of year must be the "stretch" season, even up here. Many of my roses have gone nothing short of berserk in shooting up. Of course in Idaho, it will come to a dead stop when winter arrives. Diane

In Ohio, I would definitely wait til spring. If you order bare roots, you can plant them in early April. If you order potted plants, you will have to wait until about the end of May (after last freeze date) to plant them.
That drought got a few of my special plants also! @#$%*!
Kate






Thanks everyone for chiming in. I will wait until spring and plant my new roses then. Official reason is that it's safer for the roses, the real reason is that I am not nearly at a point where I can plant them... it's called procrastination...lol
Next spring...:-)
Thanks again folks!!
Many of my plantings are of cuttings. When I expect frost, they are covered with 2 L pop bottles. In late winter, the bottle caps are removed during the day. Some years, I keep the cuttings in pots, also with pop bottles over them, and overwinter them under oak leaves along the foundation of my house to, as Mad Gallica says, plant roses with larger root systems. Both fall planting of the little ones, and keeping them in pots over winter, seems to work equally well. Yellow roses are the trickiest to keep alive.
Steve