22,795 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
You dead head a climber the same way you dead head any rose. I usually just snap off the spent bloom right below the hip but you can also cut them off down to a leaf set if you want to. If you have your climber spread horizontally and the blooms are on a lot of lateral branches you can cut those laterals back to one or two leaf sets and it should grow out new laterals that will bloom.
Interesting, Patty. I do usually dead head my Home Run just to keep it neater looking but I was told this season, by someone who knows the breeder, that you're not supposed to dead head it. If left alone it's supposed to produce the next flush of blooms quicker. So I haven't done any dead heading on it this year and I don't have a single hip on it! And, to tell the truth, I don't think it rebloomed any faster either, lol!
Hi mscamille, I am in southern Idaho with hot, dry summers (I'm sure you are not so dry; I love southern Oregon). Anyway, Julia Child takes the heat well, and would be a good selection if you can keep her small enough for your spot. She's a near constant bloomer, with lovely, rounded growth habit. Diane
Which leaves the 'looseness' of the petals. I associate Lavaglut with tight spirals of closely spaced petals. Especially in late fall, it's almost impossible to see if the petals are alive or if they've dried in place and slightly lost their substance.
Is there any chance that your plant is picking up PM from another genus somewhere in the vicinity and showing symptoms that aren't 'normal' for roses?
One thing (spring thing...but grasping at straws....)do the receptacles show PM? That's what we see in my part of the country on some of the early 1900 ramblers whose foliage stays pretty clean.
This is the summer blooms at their end & they tend to be more open then spring blooms here. I'm in z4 so only get a good spring & summer bloom cycle, fall bloom cycle iffy, only get a good one every 4-5 years when Mother Nature decides to give me a few extra weeks of frost free weather. Because I live in western WI, just 50-75 east of the beginning of the northern US & Canadian Plains with no large water mass or mountains to temper the weather coming off the Plains, it makes rose growing verrrry interesting.
My favorite rose quote is one that's posted in my office: "We can either complain because roses have thorns or rejoice because thorns have roses".
My other favorite is a general garden quote: "Gardening is a way of showing that we believe in tomorrow".
Cynthia
Applying sulfur as dust probably should call for a particle respirator as you will be surrounded by clouds of it. Also it doesn't stick through a light rain as spray with a little soap does, and you will use so much more sulfur that it will affect soil pH. So if anybody wants to use sulfur, I recommend micronized sulfur and a tank sprayer.
Not really no clouds, a simple mask will do. Easiest method is putting sulfur in a pantyhose and attach to a stick then shake over plant. There are also special applicators. This method is used traditionally on grape vines. If leaves are slightly damp (say from a dewy night) sulphur sticks just fine. You don't need to cover the whole plant since, as mentioned, it works mostly by sublimation. Not much hits the ground but, where I come from, this would hardly matter since we live on lime... Much, much cheaper and very effective.. But ugly in a garden.
Basals (primaries) come from the graft or the ground. Laterals come from leaf joints in the basals or previous laterals.
The only big concern with tying climbers is that you not break the canes. With some varieties, the young shoots are glassy and brittle. You shouldn't try to bend them much until they become somewhat fibrous. Other varieties have canes that become quite stiff and unmanageable when fully grown out.
I would bend the first canes a little further down than you have done, to leave room for other canes that will be tied into those spots later. Build the fan starting almost horizontally.
Thanks, Trish. I can do strident in some areas of my yard, so at least it doesn't sound like a dog of a bush. In my yard, die-back is a given, but it's good to know the growth is stiff as suits the modern colors rather than bushy. I do agree that Garden Delight's growth habit is much more appealing since it bushes out even from being pruned to the ground.
Marlorena - glad you like the photos and that these are some ideas to share, but the notion that one of these might be for everyone is probably beyond this list of 10. That's why I encourage you all to chime in - I'm clearly heavily loaded on the multiple petal roses, and that doesn't do well in a climate with lots of balling. However, with 900 roses I probably could find at least one rose in my yard that would be good fit for just about anyone, particularly since I zone push several teas. Just not the same roses... (smile).
Cynthia
Ok, I realize that I am probably the president of the Cynthia fan club, but wow she is just my best all-around utility player! I don't have a good bush shot, but here is a little bouquet, 4 days in vase and cut when Cynthia's blooms were already pretty open. The light pink is Eiffel Tower (rain spoiled a bit) and some enormous volunteer zinnia that have reverted back from their hybrid colors. The scent is wafting inside the house and I absolutely love this vibrant, vigorous, fragrant bloom factory!
Many of the Kordes roses will grow into monsters in mild climates. I've seen Beverly shoot up 8 foot basal breaks late in the season.
It sounds like you bought a small own root plant. It takes a year or more to form a nice plant from a small band pot and to do that it needs 5 or 6 soft pinches to form multiple canes. If this is not done then what will happen is one very strong, very long, super cane. So yes pinch it back now - encourage breaks so that it is a well balanced plant. It is best to prune back these strong canes early, as letting them grow tall takes energy from the plant that could be used to from more breaks.
I have several own root Beverly in USDA Zone 8 and it is not a "monster plant". They are 3-5 years old and under 4.5 feet tall with about 10 major canes. Beverly is a highly productive bloomer and repeats very well. I prune in early spring to about 2.5 feet and I do prune back spent blooms down 2-3 leaflets. I give it a well balanced fertilizer three times from early spring and stopping in mid August.