22,795 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
One of the definitions of a rambler is no or little rebloom. It's a loose term for a lot of different roses. I'm told to call New Dawn a large flowered climber and things like Super Dorothy a climbing polyantha. So your Blushing Lucy survived the winter well? It would seem then that you aren't too badly limited as to what climbers you can grow. There are some ramblers bred for cold climes. Polar Star is one. I think the Geschwend roses were intended for cold.
Polar Star and Geschwend are very pretty, thanks for mentioning them. Yes, Blushing Lucy is doing very well here, I have two of them, the one wrapping around the porch(facing North) has very little (almost none) winter damage, the other one 30' away got eaten by rabbits , I moved the root to a sunny spot facing west two months ago, will see how well it blooms next Spring (blooms on old wood). I ordered Bloosomtime and Awaking to grow with my three New Dawns , to keep the colors going; and Renae will be growing with a Blushing Lucy. I want to have blooms around the porch all the time. but I love Blushing Lucy too (even she is a once bloomer for my location), so I am going to twist them together! No big deal! :-)
I just purchased a Cl America to twist with Cecile Brunner Cl- another once bloomer for me. Cecile Brunner Cl doesn't grow tall in this iceland.
You're right, New Dawns is a big climber, not a rambler, I tried to keep the title short, so upgraded it to a rambler for a short time :-)
I got the horse manure last spring 2013 from a coworkers farm and she said it had been piled up and left all winter long before I got a hold of it. I used it in my compost bin to compost even more over last summer and just laid the compost on top of the soil as a top dressing.
I will try to get a close up of a leaf if I can, it's raining right now.
That's sounds fine, Nick. You just want to be careful with the fertilizer when you first plant roses so you don't burn the roots. Besides, when you first plant them it takes them a bit to settle in and start to take up nutrients anyway. Seeing new growth start on top will tell you that roots are ready to feed more top growth so you can go ahead and start to fertilize.
seil,
Well hopefully I did not burn the roots cuz like I said, after we dug the hole, I added a tablespoon of the Roses Miracle Grow to the hole. Then I watered the hole so the rose miracle grow would get wet & disperse into the soil. Then added the bush & covered & watered again.
I agree, your roses will sort themselves out and the blooms will ultimately face toward sunlight rather than toward the wall. I have an amusing example of such a thing. Years ago when my husband and I first bought our house, he planted a huge row of giant sunflowers against our fence. We were so excited for them to bloom. Well, they bloomed alright...but they all faced toward our neighbor's yard and away from ours. That was the direction of the sun. Lesson learned! lol
PS: our neighbors loved them.
It may be beneficial and eating aphids. It looks an awful lot like a ladybug larva.
Here is a link that might be useful: ladybug larva article.
This is my third year with Ketchup & Mustard. My DH is very supportive of my gardening, but really doesnâÂÂt get too excited about anything other than our vegetables. Ketchup & Mustard is one of only two roses heâÂÂs ever picked out and requested that I plant. He loves this rose, so it stays in my garden. Otherwise, I probably wouldn't grow it. ItâÂÂs a rather good rose except that it blackspots terribly here. IâÂÂm just not crazy about the blooms. I think itâÂÂs the contradiction of the harsh coloring verses the small frilly bloom form that doesnâÂÂt appeal to me. It is a prolific bloomer; the blooms last a long time and then self clean; the red never fades or burns in all day full sun here (the yellow does soften some as the blooms age); it stays short which is fairly uncommon for a rose here (mine is still under 4 ft in its third year and about as wide); the foliage is a bright, shiny green (when not covered in BS); no fragrance whatsoever to my nose; weak canes that droop badly in our stormy spring; the blooms will nod after a rain, but the petals themselves are very rain tolerant.
My camera doesn't capture the brightness of the tomato red & yellow very well, but here are a couple of pictures anyway:
I prefer the blooms when they are nodding after a rain:
Look for an ice melter with only calcium chloride. Sodium salts are harmful to plants, more so in gardens with heavy soils and low rainfall. Chlorides are not helpful, but all brands I have seen have chloride. There is no sign of salt poisoning in the images, however.
I am still confused by the reddish veins, but yellowing of the new growth without distortion of growth patterns is usually iron deficiency. It can be caused by pH over 7 or cold, wet soil. Excessive phosphate fertilizer can contribute.
It is not unusual for some plants to be chlorotic and others not. Multiflora rootstock and own-roots of some varieties have more trouble garnering iron than Dr. Huey rootstock. There can be local variation in pH.
I see what you mean now about the reddish veins Michael...