22,795 Garden Web Discussions | Roses

mad_gallica is correct. DO NOT dig up your rose and replant it. Just tie it to the trellis. If there are any canes of any appreciable length, gently tie them as horizontally as you can.

Jackie

I agree, your roses will sort themselves out and the blooms will ultimately face toward sunlight rather than toward the wall. I have an amusing example of such a thing. Years ago when my husband and I first bought our house, he planted a huge row of giant sunflowers against our fence. We were so excited for them to bloom. Well, they bloomed alright...but they all faced toward our neighbor's yard and away from ours. That was the direction of the sun. Lesson learned! lol
PS: our neighbors loved them.

It may be beneficial and eating aphids. It looks an awful lot like a ladybug larva.

Here is a link that might be useful: ladybug larva article.

okay prof. that is what I also think. Leave him alone. They do look evil, but they are one of the good guys. And that is why you may be seeing all the aphid corpses around!

I can find VERY few pics of Peter Frank's Hulthemias. Pics of Jim Sproul's make me drool, especially his new seedlings derived from "Darlowe's Enigma".

This is my third year with Ketchup & Mustard. My DH is very supportive of my gardening, but really doesnâÂÂt get too excited about anything other than our vegetables. Ketchup & Mustard is one of only two roses heâÂÂs ever picked out and requested that I plant. He loves this rose, so it stays in my garden. Otherwise, I probably wouldn't grow it. ItâÂÂs a rather good rose except that it blackspots terribly here. IâÂÂm just not crazy about the blooms. I think itâÂÂs the contradiction of the harsh coloring verses the small frilly bloom form that doesnâÂÂt appeal to me. It is a prolific bloomer; the blooms last a long time and then self clean; the red never fades or burns in all day full sun here (the yellow does soften some as the blooms age); it stays short which is fairly uncommon for a rose here (mine is still under 4 ft in its third year and about as wide); the foliage is a bright, shiny green (when not covered in BS); no fragrance whatsoever to my nose; weak canes that droop badly in our stormy spring; the blooms will nod after a rain, but the petals themselves are very rain tolerant.

My camera doesn't capture the brightness of the tomato red & yellow very well, but here are a couple of pictures anyway:

I prefer the blooms when they are nodding after a rain:

I've grown MT in coastal NC and two locations in VA: he is about 6x6 here with very little winter kill and zero blackspot. Repeat is about 30 days. He's bulletproof.

Haven't grown FD because of the BS reports.

Here they are both very good repeaters. Some mildew on MT when young. The main difference is size of the plant. Also place FD with some afternoon shade as the dark color of the flowers can blacken and toast in hot weather. Can't comment on BS.

That still has parts alive....so is worth a removal of winter dead parts to let the live parts fill in the voids.

Thanks so much for your answers everyone. I kind of thought that but was thrown off by all those thorn clusters. Thanks again.
Cher

Here is a picture of a crab spider on my Betty White. I usually take my finger and flick it off, since they can eat bees. I don't kill them, because they can do good things too.
And yes! They can camouflage themselves by turning color. I've seen one yellow.
Carol

Thrips season is late this year in Tennessee because Hay cutting is way late.

Once the grasses dry out, the Thrips move on and the predaceous Thrips follow. Only the predaceous ones need some time for their populations to build.

Thrips just began to bother my white roses about four days ago (east of Knoxville 1100').

Sometimes I can salvage blooms by removing outer layers of petals and move them inside for enjoyment.

Hmmm, looking closely at the original posters foliage, you're quite right. My perfume delights leaves are different, very matte. Also my Perfume Delight doesn't keep it's color, it fades... a lot. I still love it for sheer vigor though. :)

Hmmm. The fragrance is medium to my smeller -- but then I have Austins. I'm really on the fence becuz it does look like Perfume Delight, has large dark green matte leaves and red thorns. Very vigorous. But it also really looks like Pink Peace. . .counted the petals 52. . .when I go to HMF and look at the photos, it resembles Pink Peace more.

I like the sound of that Suzan. PLEASE post photos when it explodes! Thanks. Kim

I love Jim Sproul's new seedlings based on "Darlowe's Enignma"!

Water.
Easiest solution. Every morning go out and spritz your leaves.

Powdery mildew needs dry leaves in order to survive.

If you do this from the start you won't have to deal with pm ever.

With an already infected plant, it won't cure the pm. But it will stop it from spreading.

Water.
Easiest solution. Every morning go out and spritz your leaves.

Powdery mildew needs dry leaves in order to survive.

If you do this from the start you won't have to deal with pm ever.

With an already infected plant, it won't cure the pm. But it will stop it from spreading.

Thank you for the information. I planted the Dame de Coeur behind Julia's Child roses. I canâÂÂt wait until they bloom. mzstitch your roses are beautiful. I hope mine blooms as good as your.

Trust me Willow they will. Julia blooms continuously. I keep deadheading her at least once a week to encourage her to rebloom. She's a great cut rose too for a short vase!

I haven't grown it, but Renae has the reputation of being a good rose that is less winter hardy than most climbers. If you are in eastern zone 7, this year's unusually hard winter would have damaged the canes. Black canes are probably dead, others may be injured internally. By now you should have vigorous new shoots coming off every healthy cane and setting flower buds. Instead I think I'm seeing a lot of blind growth--shoots that stopped growing without making a flower bud. Look for any small flower buds at the tips. You can mark blind shoots because the top leaf has matured. On a growing shoot, the top leaves are small, crinkled, and a different color, or there is a flower bud.

Blind shoots occur because they were injured by an untimely freeze, or because the underlying cane was injured back in the dead of winter. The plant just needs to be pruned back. Roses can recover from being pruned all the way down, as I had to do this spring. Prune to healthy white center pith.

Red spots are probably cercospora or spot anthracnose (fungal diseases, but not a big deal).

Sorry to be so long-winded!

Best,
Michael

Thank you so much, I didn't see your response until today.

I'm in the Pacific NW and we are in such a funny location we are either zone 7 or 8b, depending on the direction of the wind, LOL!

We had a mild winter but I still did as you suggested and pruned the branches back. I also found a fertilizer/fungal treatment and dose it with that.

Thanks again for your advice.

I have not seen crown gall go systemic, but Ann may be right. Usually aerial galls are found at old pruning sites where the bacteria entered through wounds, but these are all along the stem. They are probably shedding bacteria onto the soil beneath.

The rose might carry on for a long time. I guess I would wait until the flush is over and prune out all the infected stems on my side, sterilizing the pruners after every cut with a bactericide. Maybe do this every year. There is a product called Galltroll, but I am not familiar with it.

Thanks to both of you for your replies, I am a novice gardener at best and not very knowledgeable. It's disheartening to hear but what I expected.

The rose has not bloomed yet (that picture is from a few years ago), which is typical based on my experience with it. It does have many buds tho that will probably burst within the next few weeks. So I should wait until its done blooming to prune?

I bought a brand new pair of shears. I will disinfect both the old and the new from now on, but the old will only be used on this bush just to be extra safe.

I'll let my neighbor know as well. I plan to prune back his growth, I know he won't mind. While I doubt he would ever remove the rose unless it were on its last legs, he has a significant bonsai collection and several other roses which I would hate to see suffer if he did not know to take precautions.

I did see something about the Galltroll, but I couldn't find much information about it, and whether I could even purchase it or that it would be helpful for an already infected rose - but I am going to try to look into it further.

Thanks again for all your help.

Dr. Huey is the most common rootstock variety. See link.

Nick, take a look at my post above to see if it is clear to you, and ask questions if it isn't. A grafted plant consists of two different varieties physically stuck together above and below. The rootstock can survive after the scion dies. Or sometimes the rootstock sends up shoots while the scion is still alive. These can crowd out the scion variety.

Here is a link that might be useful: Dr. Huey

No. Suckers are simply rootstock, and rootstock plants do bloom.

They just don't bloom like the rose you purchased. And MOST rootstocks bloom only once a year, spring-or-summer.

Dr. Huey is the most common U.S. rootstock, and it is, as noted, a dark burgundy-red once-blooming climber, which has fungal disease problems in most areas.

Although roses are not winter-killed here, I still prefer roses growing on their own roots. They cannot "sucker."