22,795 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
just googled it too. I really think it is the crazy weather, and that seems to make the most sense. I will still do the white paper thing. I do not and I mean 'do not' spray insecticides of any kind. I see many birds of all types, and a few bees coming back lately. I do a happy dance about these
Listen to buford. When I moved up here in 08 from S.E FL., the biggest change for me was the soil. Once you get that figured out, roses up in this part of the state grow large with larger blooms in the spring and fall. You also have to watch out for ice storms during the winter. Snow is good. Ice is not. Over all, I enjoy growing roses up here compared to FL.
michaelg is correct for normal herbicide spray damage; but if the herbicide is picked up by a root, the damage could be more local. (This is not written for your case, but for other readers who may have a problem in the future.)
This post was edited by henry_kuska on Mon, Jun 2, 14 at 14:18
If you or a neighbor (which is what happened to me) sprayed any kind of herbicide OR used a weed and feed on the lawn it's probably that. Don't be fooled into thinking that if you didn't spray it it can't be that. Herbicide sprays can travel a long way on any kind of breeze. Unfortunately most people are not any where near as careful with the stuff as they should be.
My neighbor was spraying for poison ivy in his yard and hedge but he never bothered to check on wind conditions before hand, he just sprayed when and where ever he saw it. He never told me until after I found the damage on my roses. Like you I freaked out and thought it was RRD. Until I spotted him out there spraying on a blustery day! After talking to him I realized what had happened. His hedge is a good 30 or 40 feet from my rose bed but the prevailing winds come from that direction and it was blown all the way into my bed. I lost a few other perennials because of it too. Now he knows to let me know when he's going to spray so I can protect my roses.
I am soooo sorry that all of you have had the same awful experience. Hoping it will stop more f you from doing this. It was a terrible! I did use the cardboard and newspaper around new beds, and I liked it a lot. I think that is why my mulch is so fantastic. Love to you all, you need it.
Char.
I doubt there are many of us who haven't had the nightmare of weed barrier cloth. It gets you over and over:
1. its expensive
2. its a pain to install
3. it makes it difficult to plant
4. mulch will readily slide away
5. there are just as many weeds as before
6. the fine roots of the weeds grow right through the cloth, latch on and become impossible to pull out
7. removing the cloth requires first removing all of the mulch and a whole lotta time and mess
8. every time you remember steps 1 through 7 you feel so dumb because, as a gardener, you already knew that weed seeds come from above. Not below.
Dani, any fertilizer will burn plants if used to excess, and no fertilizer will burn plants if used in appropriate amounts.
Generally, don't mix fertilizer into the soil unless a soil test has shown a deficiency such as phosphorus or calcium. Fertilize at the surface and don't exceed labeled doses. That includes not applying more than one fertilizer in the same time interval--they all provide roughly the same stuff. Usually labeled doses are on the heavy side and you can use less than that. If you fertilize at planting time, use a light dose.
My two cents:
If the_morden_man affirms it, then so far - to date, I am convinced of the truth of it.
Or to say it another way, I believe that a recommendation from the_morden_man for cold zones is a recommendation that is very difficult to top.
Of course, this is ONLY true if one wants roses that work hard. There are countless roses that will do if one wants roses that require hard work.
And lastly, as I ALWAYS say, one must be willing to wait three years before judging.
What is going on is that you just planted it 6 weeks ago, and the poor thing is trying to grow roots while simultaneously supporting all of that top growth. However, it looks mainly fine. If it was mine I would cut off ONLY the canes or parts of canes that are brown and obviously completely dead. Then I would leave it alone for at least one year, so that it can grow roots and get established.
Next Spring, when it stops freezing, you can prune it a bit.
Jackie
Will do, SandandSun - I'll post some pictures of the "back 40" as soon as they are up to snuff. The roses are just now starting their June bloom, but I'll post some pictures after they get going. If you want to see the back 40 in spring (the tulips were particularly nice this year) I have a thread on Roses that contrasts my spring 2014 and summer 2013 gardens. It has surely cycled off the first pages by now, but it's still around somewhere. Thanks for the encouragement - like we need any encouragement as rose nuts!
Cynthia
I'm also very happy with my Heirloom bands. When I got the delivery notice, I zipped by to unpack the roses, but forgot to bring a knife to open the box. The new perforated 4-pack package was so convenient to open by hand; and the roses were easy to unpack without damage. The bands arrived nice and bushy -- they looked like small shrubs. Three went into the ground, one was planted in a pot, and all are doing really well. I'm very pleased with this company.
I have found nothing works effectively apart from spraying neonics. I use thiacloprid, there are others. You shouldn't worry about being judged, you are entitled to do what works and as long as you are careful, risk to wildlife is minimal. Spraying roses, out of bloom, especially fully doubles that the bees can't get pollen from is relatively safe. Bees have other things in my garden that are far higher on their list of priorities than a rose that they can't get at. The sawfly larvae do obviously have to eat a bit of rose to die but it will soon do the trick and break the life cycle.
I seriously doubt that anyone growing Lavender Lassie would agree with Pickering that it "blooms continuously," however generously that is construed.
The Lavender Lassies in the pic I included are about 11 years old and originally grafted on Multiflora from PIckering. They receive about 8 hours of direct sun a day. They bloom twice a year with deadheading. Has been that way since year 1 and only the volume of blooms changed with age. It is by no stretch a continuous bloomer. They also blackspot mildly every summer in the bottom 15-20% of leaves, then drop the leaves cleanly and regrow new ones. The same experience with an LL I planted in the east coast of Canada in every regard.
I still think the rose in your pic is a bourbon, but whatever it is, as long as you're happy with it, that is all that truly matters.