22,795 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
Dani, any fertilizer will burn plants if used to excess, and no fertilizer will burn plants if used in appropriate amounts.
Generally, don't mix fertilizer into the soil unless a soil test has shown a deficiency such as phosphorus or calcium. Fertilize at the surface and don't exceed labeled doses. That includes not applying more than one fertilizer in the same time interval--they all provide roughly the same stuff. Usually labeled doses are on the heavy side and you can use less than that. If you fertilize at planting time, use a light dose.
My two cents:
If the_morden_man affirms it, then so far - to date, I am convinced of the truth of it.
Or to say it another way, I believe that a recommendation from the_morden_man for cold zones is a recommendation that is very difficult to top.
Of course, this is ONLY true if one wants roses that work hard. There are countless roses that will do if one wants roses that require hard work.
And lastly, as I ALWAYS say, one must be willing to wait three years before judging.
What is going on is that you just planted it 6 weeks ago, and the poor thing is trying to grow roots while simultaneously supporting all of that top growth. However, it looks mainly fine. If it was mine I would cut off ONLY the canes or parts of canes that are brown and obviously completely dead. Then I would leave it alone for at least one year, so that it can grow roots and get established.
Next Spring, when it stops freezing, you can prune it a bit.
Jackie
Will do, SandandSun - I'll post some pictures of the "back 40" as soon as they are up to snuff. The roses are just now starting their June bloom, but I'll post some pictures after they get going. If you want to see the back 40 in spring (the tulips were particularly nice this year) I have a thread on Roses that contrasts my spring 2014 and summer 2013 gardens. It has surely cycled off the first pages by now, but it's still around somewhere. Thanks for the encouragement - like we need any encouragement as rose nuts!
Cynthia
I'm also very happy with my Heirloom bands. When I got the delivery notice, I zipped by to unpack the roses, but forgot to bring a knife to open the box. The new perforated 4-pack package was so convenient to open by hand; and the roses were easy to unpack without damage. The bands arrived nice and bushy -- they looked like small shrubs. Three went into the ground, one was planted in a pot, and all are doing really well. I'm very pleased with this company.
I have found nothing works effectively apart from spraying neonics. I use thiacloprid, there are others. You shouldn't worry about being judged, you are entitled to do what works and as long as you are careful, risk to wildlife is minimal. Spraying roses, out of bloom, especially fully doubles that the bees can't get pollen from is relatively safe. Bees have other things in my garden that are far higher on their list of priorities than a rose that they can't get at. The sawfly larvae do obviously have to eat a bit of rose to die but it will soon do the trick and break the life cycle.
I see Roses Unlimited carries Pristine--a white blend rose I have admired for its exquisite shape for many years. It is also disease-resistant. I haven't grown this one, but love it--totally beautiful rose. Grows about 3-4 ft tall (hybrid tea). It is described as "white, pink edges, seashell-pink highlights" at helpmefind.com . Lovely pastel/white blend.
I also see Pope John on their list--another one I've never grown but it is often highly recommended on this forum. For some reason, I've never been able to warm up to it.
There are a number of other whites at RU, so I'm sure they will find something you like.
Kate
Unlike JBs, rose midge are poor fliers--they typically arrive via infected potted plants.
Selective watering may also be useful. Holding back water may induce dormacy, stopping fresh new growth, insuring that midge will only attack the target plants that have been well watered during the hot summer months.
This may be quite useful as an organic control for those who don't want to use insecticides in their yard.
Hmm, that is a puzzle Kate. Eutin is definitely cold hardy and a pretty frequent bloomer, but perhaps it's the spot between houses that encourages the blackspot in my yard. Air circulation is definitely a factor in these things, as are those pesky microclimates. Regardless, I like this rose and wouldn't disagree at all with your endorsement of it.
NickJoseph - I posted in your other thread about the narrow yellow/red/lavender roses, but since you asked here too I'll paste the response here as well in case someone else has the same question.
For reds, my Veteran's Honor as well as Isabella Rosellini and Madame Delbard have stayed pretty narrow over 3-4 years, and they're in pretty good sun. I'd put them at about 4.5 feet for the first two and maybe 3.5 feet high for Madame Delbard. All have been hardy for me so far, but they grow in my warm pocket.
For narrow lavenders, my Lilac Dawn and Blue Girl have both stayed pretty narrow and are well established. I don't think either is more than 3-4 feet high, and they both had some cane left even after this bad winter. Poseidon and Neptune are gorgeous and nicely hardy, but when happy they'd spread beyond a foot.
For narrow yellows, I don't think the lovely Julia Child will do it for you, as she wants to spread at least as wide as tall when happy. Sunsprite has been narrow for me in my mailbox bed, and is no more than 3 feet tall. Golden Fairy Tale is very tall, at least 5 feet, but mine hasn't spread out very widely so far. All of those are reliably hardy for me in a normal garden space.
Cynthia
I am soooo sorry that all of you have had the same awful experience. Hoping it will stop more f you from doing this. It was a terrible! I did use the cardboard and newspaper around new beds, and I liked it a lot. I think that is why my mulch is so fantastic. Love to you all, you need it.
Char.
I doubt there are many of us who haven't had the nightmare of weed barrier cloth. It gets you over and over:
1. its expensive
2. its a pain to install
3. it makes it difficult to plant
4. mulch will readily slide away
5. there are just as many weeds as before
6. the fine roots of the weeds grow right through the cloth, latch on and become impossible to pull out
7. removing the cloth requires first removing all of the mulch and a whole lotta time and mess
8. every time you remember steps 1 through 7 you feel so dumb because, as a gardener, you already knew that weed seeds come from above. Not below.