22,795 Garden Web Discussions | Roses

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justkristyj

Thanks boncrow66, I really like this rose too. Love those bargains.

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boncrow66

I would have gone this weekend if it wasn't a 3 hour drive but I did happen on a small local nursery close to me that has roses the owner purchases from Chamblees in the spring so I did get some Chamblees roses this weekend, just not bargain ones. :)

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roses that made through winterI have three pics of roses this is Chrysler Imperial
Posted by pembroke(6--Louisville KY)
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margaretmerrill(6 nev)

I also lost Mr. Lincoln! Some of the others looked bad, but are coming back.

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seil zone 6b MI

Lovely big red bloom! There's a reason some of these oldies are still around and that pic shows why!

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seil zone 6b MI

Maybe we all should declare it that if it would help find a cure for it!

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jim1961 Zone 6a Central Pa.

I found spraying the bottom and top of leaves and canes with a Spinosad product worked good... Spot test leaves first to make sure they are not sensitive to the spray...
Follow directions...

My second choice would be safer soap which also works...

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caldonbeck(UK (8))

I have found nothing works effectively apart from spraying neonics. I use thiacloprid, there are others. You shouldn't worry about being judged, you are entitled to do what works and as long as you are careful, risk to wildlife is minimal. Spraying roses, out of bloom, especially fully doubles that the bees can't get pollen from is relatively safe. Bees have other things in my garden that are far higher on their list of priorities than a rose that they can't get at. The sawfly larvae do obviously have to eat a bit of rose to die but it will soon do the trick and break the life cycle.

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maxim2do

Thank you so much Kate. It's been suggested that the tree be removed. It's a healthy beautiful tree.
The roses all receive full sun part of the day despite the tree. It's a mystery why the closest plants die and the farthest thrive.

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michaelg(7a NC Mts)

Eastern red cedar (a juniper) is toxic (allelopathic) to some plants. The toxin is in the foliage. Note that western red cedar (not native to Colorado) is unrelated to the eastern kind.

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nickjoseph(5 Milwaukee, WI)

Plus some of my bushes always have green & burgundy color stems & leaves & are my most beautiful, hearty, bloomers.

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lynbornman

OKâ¦.I will wait it out. I'll post pics in a few weeks if I still have concerns. You guys are great.

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dublinbay z6 (KS)

I see Roses Unlimited carries Pristine--a white blend rose I have admired for its exquisite shape for many years. It is also disease-resistant. I haven't grown this one, but love it--totally beautiful rose. Grows about 3-4 ft tall (hybrid tea). It is described as "white, pink edges, seashell-pink highlights" at helpmefind.com . Lovely pastel/white blend.

I also see Pope John on their list--another one I've never grown but it is often highly recommended on this forum. For some reason, I've never been able to warm up to it.

There are a number of other whites at RU, so I'm sure they will find something you like.

Kate

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michaelg(7a NC Mts)

'Bolero' is the best bet I can think of for the specs. If small fragrant flowers in clusters were acceptable, then 'Katherina Ziemet'.

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roseseek(9)

Bierkreek in The Netherlands had it and may still. I don't know. Rosaplant is one of their partners and may be able to supply it. Unfortunately, it appears the lists on HMF aren't current. Kim

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vettin(z6b Northern VA)

For those of you looking for Lauren, Longagoroses just listed it in ebay

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seil zone 6b MI

I have a Dr. Huey growing right now but I don't have a huge problem with midge so I'm not sure I want to attract them to lay eggs in it.

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zack_lau z6 CT

Unlike JBs, rose midge are poor fliers--they typically arrive via infected potted plants.

Selective watering may also be useful. Holding back water may induce dormacy, stopping fresh new growth, insuring that midge will only attack the target plants that have been well watered during the hot summer months.

This may be quite useful as an organic control for those who don't want to use insecticides in their yard.

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nippstress - zone 5 Nebraska

Hmm, that is a puzzle Kate. Eutin is definitely cold hardy and a pretty frequent bloomer, but perhaps it's the spot between houses that encourages the blackspot in my yard. Air circulation is definitely a factor in these things, as are those pesky microclimates. Regardless, I like this rose and wouldn't disagree at all with your endorsement of it.

NickJoseph - I posted in your other thread about the narrow yellow/red/lavender roses, but since you asked here too I'll paste the response here as well in case someone else has the same question.

For reds, my Veteran's Honor as well as Isabella Rosellini and Madame Delbard have stayed pretty narrow over 3-4 years, and they're in pretty good sun. I'd put them at about 4.5 feet for the first two and maybe 3.5 feet high for Madame Delbard. All have been hardy for me so far, but they grow in my warm pocket.

For narrow lavenders, my Lilac Dawn and Blue Girl have both stayed pretty narrow and are well established. I don't think either is more than 3-4 feet high, and they both had some cane left even after this bad winter. Poseidon and Neptune are gorgeous and nicely hardy, but when happy they'd spread beyond a foot.

For narrow yellows, I don't think the lovely Julia Child will do it for you, as she wants to spread at least as wide as tall when happy. Sunsprite has been narrow for me in my mailbox bed, and is no more than 3 feet tall. Golden Fairy Tale is very tall, at least 5 feet, but mine hasn't spread out very widely so far. All of those are reliably hardy for me in a normal garden space.

Cynthia

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nickjoseph(5 Milwaukee, WI)

Thanks Cynthia so much for your help. I've saved both. You are a wealth of information.

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seil zone 6b MI

That's gorgeous, Cynthia!

No existing roses blooming here yet. I do have some blooms on the ones I just bought though. And the peonies are in full bloom!

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nippstress - zone 5 Nebraska

Kate and Seil - those are drop-dead gorgeous pictures! I love the contrast of deeply saturated colors in each of those - the purple-pink-white of the iris combo and the deep carnation pinks against the purple pansies and whitish Easter Basket, then the deeply saturated white peonies (in my world, white can be saturated when there's not a hint of cream) against those great poppies. It's great fun to mix in those perennials with the roses! Glad y'all liked my photo too.

Elks - yes, it's nice to have those lovely Canadian Explorers that were three of the very few roses in my yard that didn't have to be cut to the ground. Since they're all climbers, that gives them the necessary head start to catch up to the peonies I'm sure.

No clue about the iris conundrum, Kate, except that this was a decidedly odd year for timing of everything, and maybe the iris felt they passed their window of opportunity without a chance to build up the blooms. Certainly the peonies are passing at a record pace in my yard.

Hang in there ratdogheads - rose season is around the corner. As long as those buds are forming there'll be roses before too long. As always, we want pictures.

Cynthia

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nippstress - zone 5 Nebraska

I'd love to show photos, but that's one that has died three times on me in failing to overwinter in zone 5. I'm giving it one more try in a protected part of my yard, and it looks to be a particularly strong specimen to try. So far all I can say is it isn't very hardy, but if you're in a warmer zone, the color is apparently to die for if you like those burgundies like I do.

Cynthia

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susan9santabarbara

I've had an own-root Deep Secret rose for about ten years, and it does great for me. I'm in coastal So. Calif., so I have very different conditions from Cynthia in zone 5. It's a very fragrant dark red.

Susan

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seil zone 6b MI

OK, does your pot have good drainage and is there a tray on the bottom of it? If so take the tray off! If you've had days of rain it could be getting too much water and doesn't have enough drainage to keep it from collecting in the pot and rotting the roots. Roses hate to have wet, soggy roots. If there aren't enough holes in the pot drill in some more and then put the pot up on a block or something, being careful not to block the holes so that the water will drain out freely.

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NOACCEPTANCE772(8a)

Thanks for the replies, awesome guys and girls Unfortunately, none of those conditions apply.
I have been growing roses for a while now,and I can tell that it is the root stock that is faulty :(
The rose is already dead now, so I will try to make them give me a refund for giving me a faulty rose.

Thanks and enjoy your weeks, peeps! ^_^

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upmichiganJim(4)

I kept Oklahoma alive here in zone 5a for about three years using a rose cone stuffed with oak leaves and a mound of dirt over the base. It produced wonderful blooms and got about 3 feet high. After a winter killed it, however, I did not try to replant it. I plant for zone 4 nowadays.

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seil zone 6b MI

Large deep red blooms, nice fragrance, good hardiness, does spot, typical tall narrow HT growth habit. It's not my favorite but it's OK.

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Kippy(SoCal zone 10. Sunset Zone 24)

Wouldn't that be part of what they quarantine hold and inspect for.

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