22,795 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
Hard pruning is EXACTLY what they needed to survive being transplanted - it will not hurt them. What you need to do now is:
1) Keep them well watered - their roots were damaged during the move, and will take some time to grow back.
2) Pinch off any flower buds - they need to put all of their energy into growing roots.
3) DO NOT feed them, or spray them, or fuss with them in any way other than (1) and (2) above.
4) Do not worry if they just "sit there" for a month or two - as I said, they are growing new roots, which you cannot see.
5) After that time period, you should begin to see a bit of new growth - then is the time to feed them - follow the directions, and feed them less than is recommended.
Then they will either bloom, or just grow until next year. When they do bloom, post a picture on here and someone will probably be able to identify them for you.
Good Luck -
Jackie
Thank you for the quick reply. I am going to get them planted today. I am hoping it will work to put them in 40 gallon pots sunk in the ground so I can move them when I move in about 6 months. I am going to write down everything and will come back when the y bloom and the blooms open to post pictures. They are such tiny little buds for such a huge bush. The bushes were at this house unattended for over 20 years so it will be nice to see them survive.
kim
No - it is not possible for "rootstock" blooms to suddenly show up on old canes which previously produced blooms of the scion (desired top rose). Rootstock blooms will always show up on their own canes, whether old or new.
However it is possible that the "old" canes with the single pink blooms were there before, but not yet blooming, so you did not notice them. In that case they could be rootstock.
Please post a picture of the single pink blooms - someone may be able to identify them.
The other thing which might have happened is that your rose sported (mutated) to this new bloom type, but again the canes which are now "old" would have existed in prior seasons, possibly not yet blooming. I believe that sports can happen on new growth off old canes, but to take over half of the bush it seems to me that you would have noticed them before.
Please post a pic of the entire bush - this will be interesting to everyone!
Jackie
It looks so so so close to Erfurt, but not quite. One distinct feature was a pure white reverse. Looking at the photos on hmf, the backs of the petals on Erfurt have pink on the tips. The mystery doesn't. Also the pinks don't seem the same....so close, so close.
Regensberg looks mostly white. This one is distinctly pink with white.
Thanks for looking and responding, vasue and Suebelle!
Thanks again for the kind comments. I like that fall photo with the asters too, Carol. It's a nice way to tone down the "in your face" coral of Liverpool Remembers. in general, though, I obviously am going for profuse and bright blooms when I can get them - a riot of color is a great description of my target, MirandaJean, even if I never totally get there.
Kim - yep, tulips in your zone would be way too much like work. It's like the work of planting and digging dahlias or glads or agapanthus or the many bulbs that are happy to the point of being weeds in zones like yours. Isn't it fun that roses have the diversity to span the range of climates from zones 3 to 11 and beyond? In picking a passion, roses are good for the long run in my world.
Cynthia
Dani,
Fanning canes of GJ on a fence is a good idea. Do that with the long canes that she produces in late summer and they will bloom the following year, maybe with some repeat bloom too.
GJ's thorns are among the most horrible in rosedom, literally sharp as needles. Always armor up!
Rose slugs. Turn over the leaves and squint at the underside as you look for tiny, tiny green wormlike critters. Squish with your fingers -- or toss into the lawn if your stomach is quesy.
Usually all one has to do is WAIT a couple weeks--for the good bugs to show up and gobble up the rose slugs, but they usually arrive before that much damage gets done. Have you been spraying the roses with insecticides in the past? They will kill off the good bugs also. If so, you may have to wait until next year for the good bugs to return.
The manual method is the only way I know to keep them under control while you wait for the good bugs. Maybe some other posters will have some other suggestions.
Good luck.
Kate
Well, if you are living in zone 5 as the number beside your user name suggests, then you are maybe a month early to be getting blooms. My roses too are leafing out beautifully, but only the more species-like are budding now. Don't give up hope yet. It might be worthwhile to have a soil test done so that you know exactly what your dirt needs, or has too much of.
Steve
After help from Adam's post, I did some web research. It seems that Ruscus hypophyllum is used in the flower trade. It is a member of the lily family. Propagation is typically done by division of the underground rhizome. It does well in shade.
Nice and green!
Here is a link that might be useful: Ruscus hypophyllum
I got sick of my Nancy Hayward climbing rose that hardly ever flowered despite supposedly being an ever bloomer. I hacked it back to less than a metre and got ready to dig it out of the ground and unload it on a friend who doesn't mind flowerless garden thugs. This morning I noticed a whole lot of flower buds on it. I don't know what I did right.
I have two kinds yellow roses. my Julia child roses so far have been slow to grow for me. one is getting black spot so far and the other is just not really doing anything. now my other yellow rose strike it rich is just doing great! it has blooms all over it and new starts on it and getting ready for more blooms. so far I have been disappointed in Julia child.
A little surprised to see the reception Sunsprite got here. I have both Sunsprite and JC, both 4 years old now. Sunsprite is a 7 feet tall, 3 feet wide bush now, and JC died almost to the ground last winter and is about 2 feet tall now. Yes, JC's bush shape is fuller than Sunsprite, but IN MY GARDEN, JC is not blackspot resistant. It was given he best spot in terms of getting full-day sun and good air circulation because DW is a big fun of the French Chef, but it spotted each year to the point of being 90% naked.
Don't get me wrong: JC is a great rose, and it can be spetacular in the right location (see Nanadoll's pictures). However, depending on the attributes that you are looking at, Sunsprite can be the superior rose. The only JCs I saw in person other than my own are at the botanical gardens in the City, none of which looks nearly as good/big/health as Nanadoll's or mzstich's (breathtaking!) .
A breakdown based on my own experience:
Bush shape: JC's bush is fuller, but it has twiggy growth as the plant vigor is affected by blackspot. (I don't spray). Sunsprite grows straight and narrow. JC might win if I spray, but l don't.
Flower: Sunsprite does not last long. JC bleaches out quickly. I like Sunsprite better, but that does mean anything at all as it is purely subjective.
Fragrance: both have strong fragrance.
Repeat: each had 4 flushes last summer, but Sunsprite's repeats have more blooms (and come with leaves).
Disease: needless to say, Sunsprite wins by a mile.
Sunsprite for me has been a truly carefree rose. It sounds that JC can be one at the right garden, but just not in mine. Sunsprite is one of a handful of roses that I have grown that I think beat out Knockouts in terms of being tough, reliable and environmental friendly IN WHERE I LIVE. In DC, the blackspot pressure is even worse than where I am and the strains of blackspot might be similiar to what are here. I would try Sunsprite first instead of JC if you don't spray.
Also, a second vote for Golden Fairy Tale, which has been ridiculously vigorous and total blackspot resistant here in my garden.
my cage
Here is a link that might be useful: cage
Physical barriers (IE: fencing) may be the best protection, but it can be unsightly. Who wants to entomb their flowers with a fence?
We use Deer Repellent Packs for just the reason you explain in your post. They are easy to apply and the product is encased in a weather resistant pouch providing protection for up to 90 days. You can learn more about them at www.DeerRepellentPacks.com.
Here is a link that might be useful: All Weather Deer Repellent