22,153 Garden Web Discussions | Roses

TMM, good to hear from you, and thanks for the update on this one! Nice to have a mauve/lavender with good resistance!

Oh my gosh! That is stunning.

Thank you.

Hoovb--is that your balcony? That is just gorgeous the way it cascades! I am pretty much sold based on your advice and what I've read on sombreuil. My siding is reddish brown so will check out your 2nd idea, as well as Jackie's. Great to have advice from people who have first-hand knowledge. Also,I will look in into pole pruner.

Yes that is Sombreuil on the front of my house. Right now it is still bare from winter pruning. that pic is from '10 or '11. Keep in mind the first 2 or 3 years Sombreuil does not repeat well. it needs to settle in and grow larger before repeat is regular.

Look around, do not be in a hurry, choose carefully. Right plant in the right place.

Jackie makes good point about making sure your planter connects to the ground without concrete in the way.

Thanks :)

I've replanted roses many times in the same spot where another rose has been and have never had a problem. It's much more of an issue in Europe, for some reason, but almost a non-issue here, especially if you add new bagged soil and new native soil. Your new roses will be fine.

Ingrid

The fresh soil was not used for my established roses so I do think it was the heat and the roses just couldn't deal with it, even the ones I have had for many years.

Does anyone have recommendations for a good moisture meter?

Thanks again to all for the advice. I will get a moisture meter and also check into drought resistant varieties. At least we got lots of rain Friday and Saturday. :-)

Avian, I don't know how much difference there will be between roses budded on a common root stock. Generally, I've found harder pithed varieties to be more more water stress tolerant than those with softer pith. Also, the harder the pith, harder the wood, the more sun scald resistant the rose. But, bud them all on the same root stock and they are probably going to be similarly "drought resistant". The softer wooded types will likely sunburn more easily, but the plants in general, should be about the same as far as "drought resistance". Kim

Johnny,

Do you want to spray or would a similar looking healthy rose work for you?

Bet some one from your area has some good suggestions

Using the following spray every two weeks from early spring to november will keep your roses looking fabulous. It's called Bayer Advanced Disease Control and it's considered the best by rose aficionados:)

Here is a link that might be useful: Bayer Disease Control

Yes, bluegirl, the varieties you asked about are not known for their own root vigor. I grew all the Ophelia, Columbia, Peace, Talisman and Charlotte Armstrong mutations own root in my old Newhall garden years ago and that was a very good environment for them, even own root. Very few had anything even remotely resembling "vigor" on their own roots. It took quite a few seasons for any of the Ophelia clan to generate nearly two by two feet, even with copious water, copious horse manure and regular bud pinching. Now, Radiance and her variants, will grow like weeds own root.

If you're serious about wanting to create your own seedlings, honestly, you will be significantly better off "standing on the shoulders" of more recent breeders, using their vastly improved results over museum pieces of the past. There really isn't anything to gain from the older types as far as vigor and health are concerned. Been there, done that, had fun, but all of those efforts resulted in nothing worth keeping long term. Kim

Well, okay--thanks for the helpful confirmations & advice.

It's just that when I type up my rose table of all the favorites I grow (Peace, Peace's many offspring, Chyrsler Imperial & its descendents...) Ophelia & Charlotte Armstrong figure pretty heavily in their genetics.

And, yeah, museum pieces (great description) appeal to me, for their very history, like any other antique.
Though I will admit that the Radiance clan have all that AND good vigor.

No it's not JAMES BIDDLE. Could be PINK PEACE. Could be a lot of other deep pinks too.

I thought Pink Peace too; especially due to the white edges on it. Beth makes a great point and I believe she has more roses than I have seen, however, if you are looking for a rose that has the appearance of the image you submitted, Pink Peace would be a great place to start looking. If you are trying to find out exactly what that rose is, you may want to take more pictures, including full bush shots, and gather up as much information as possible about the rose, then go from there.

Good luck!

Lynn

This post was edited by desertgarden561 on Sun, Mar 2, 14 at 19:13

For zone 5, two good vendors of own root roses are Northland Rosarium in Spokane, Washington and High Country Roses in Denver. Both have carefully selected roses which can with stand the rigors of zone 5 winters, and both send out large plants which are ready to start growing when they arrive.

Two good sources of grafted roses for cold zoners are Palatine and Pickering in Canada. Again, huge, healthy plants which are ready to plant and grow.

I have not ordered from Wisconsin Roses, which does also have a great reputation. I think there is also a company in Ohio called Rosefire.

If you want modern roses, the ones that look like florist roses, Hybrid Teas and Floribundas, you had probably best stick to grafted roses. Maybe call or email WR for suggestions.

Do any of the cities near you have nurseries with good selections?

The cheapest way to go is the body bagged roses which are showing up now in the big box stores. Those are a gamble, they might or might not grow, be true to name, be virus free.

For zone 5, I have experience with Pickering nurseries, Palatine nurseries, David Austin Roses, and for own root: Chamblees nurseries. ALL are good vendors.

After all the years and all the roses you have grown, I'm happy to hear that you still get excited when you get even more. Have fun with them.....And btw, that is a complete surprise to me too about the size and quality of Breck's roses. Do you think it's a one time deal? Thanks for posting a picture of the bare roots. I never would have believed it if I hadn't seen it with my own two eyes....Maryl

heheh -- Yep Sugar Moon and Neil Diamond are both going to be what I call "growers." I saw the size of the Neil Diamonds that got delivered to the Pacific Auction, and just looking at the bareroots gives you a basic idea of the vigor. These plants, which were just grafted two years back were all monster bareroots. Queen Liz, watch out. (Queen Liz was always a big lusty bare root in its time too). The size of that bare root was not a fluke. Neil the rose is going to be way bigger than Neil the person.

Eyes for You, on the other hand, needs a lot of coddling here. And despite it's initial size, I don't think Chipmunk will get much taller -- but will fill out and get wider.

Have fun. I got a Neil Diamond from Breck's also, but most everything else I got this year came from the auctions. I think I ended up with 33 newbies, almost all of which were varieties I haven't grown before, except for a couple of old favorites that were somehow made available on Fortuniana rootstock through the Huntington -- don't know how that happened, but I grabbed 'em when I saw 'em (Touch of Class, Oregold, and Sutter's Gold).

The ants here can live under water for several weeks. Nasty things.

You can use a boric acid solution of water, boric acid, and a little sugar in a dish as an ant bait. It works on some species, not all. Putting a screen or something over the dish to keep out pets but not ants is a good idea. Boric acid is usually available at pharmacies, some grocery stores.

Here is a link that might be useful: boric acid and ants.

You could try food grade diatomaceous earth also, especially if pets are around. It won't hurt them if they do ingest a small amount, and it does a real number on any insect that has an exoskeleton.

Here is a link that might be useful: National Pesticide Center

See:

Title: "Effect of salicylic acid treatment on tomato plant physiology and tolerance to potato virus X infection"

http://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s10658-013-0333-1?wt_mc=alerts.TOCjournals

Here is a link that might be useful: link for above

As for grinding the aspirin pills for making it part of my spray cocktail or even watering into the ground, I put them in a blender with some water and grind them into a solution. I then filter the inert insolubles out with a coffee maker filter paper and then make my dilutions to the concentration levels that I need. That helps prevent the insolubles from clogging my sprayer that I fight with on a regular basis.

I have pat Austin next to mine...beautiful :)

Thanks for the advice about size. I had estimated before, something I'm just terrible at, because I didn't want to go outside in the cold. The space is 40' long and the one (6-8 yr. old) Limelight I have is about 6.5'. I do prune it in the fall to keep it from encroaching on what is currently planted in the same bed. The space available between this one and the next hydrangea is a full 14.5', not 8' so nearly double.

I've been thinking I could put a single Munstead Wood before the mature hydrangea. This is a smaller space and I've heard MW grows lower (is this correct?) so I thought it would be a nice beginning. The next section would be LofS, a hydrangea and then another grouping of roses finished with a hydrangea. I am hoping to find a rose with a similar growth habit and complementary color to grow on he other side of LofS.

My ideas have been all over the place. Carding Mill, A Shropshire Lad, Abraham Darby, Jude the Obscure. Any you'd avoid outright? Any that won't be the right shape? I'm hoping they're bushier rather than tall and leggy. The Golden Celebration I have started out bushier but a cane was broken off early on and I've had trouble with 'octopus arms' every since.