22,153 Garden Web Discussions | Roses

Your Over the Moon is stellar. Mine is poor here. It barely hangs on. I don't think it likes this area. Thanks for the eye candy.

Thanks everyone!
Bustopher, I'm sorry to hear your OTM isn't doing well. Mine is grafted on Dr. Huey, but climate could make the difference, as well.
Jockewing, I'm sending you a separate email.

The air waves between our brains must have been burning up. 'Intrigue' holds color well here also. And I love how the buds take a week to open. Well ......., I was going to suggest 'Granada' (similar colors to 'Chicago Peace' which I love) for that spot. Never mind.

I bought 'Don Juan' a week ago! I'll move the pot beside 'Intrigue' for a picture if the bloom coincides.

I have seen 'Ebb Tide' in the spring. I think it may combine well with 'Honey Dijon'. I know it looks good with 'Sharifa Asma'. Its a rather deader color than pics I'd seen at that time. After I read how it fades badly in heat decided not to use with 'Heritage'. Hoping 'Don Juan' may work.

Irisgal

I love Don Juan. It is a deep true red in my garden and a blooming machine!! I understand your fear with with Ebb Tide as I cancelled an order then planted Twilight Zone instead.

I did not think of Heritage to be placed near Don Juan. I owned a plant years ago and it did not fair well; could have been where I planted it. It is definitely worth considering. It is reported to handle summer heat okay.

Lynn

Something else: your Sonia has an assortment of prickles of different sizes.

All the RRD infected roses I've seen (including some rugosas) have masses of prickles of the same size as one of their RRD symptoms. And further complicating things, not all RRD infected roses are "hyper thorny"

RRD thorns do harden up eventually, but often they stand out so oddly that we grasp them physically before we grasp the meaning behind/within them.

Thank you so much for the additional information. Now I am familiar with the quantity and the lack of size variations, I have a better gauge for assessing. Thank you again!

The rose does indeed exist. You will only know whether or not your rose is the correct rose when it blooms. Was it a bagged rose from a big box store or a potted one from a nursery? The bagged roses have a high rate of being mislabeled. The nurseries are better but even they occasionally get a mislabeled one from their suppliers.

Hey all. thanks for the replies ^^
It was a bagged rose from a box store.
I did buy national trust too but the only rose I am currently worried about is this one.
Does anybody have their own photos? I cannot find good photos of the whole bush.

If it has prickles (thorns) it is not Lady Banks. CB can be a very pale pink, esp in hot sun; she has small blooms with lots of petals.

the few flowers I saw last year seemed white to me with lots of petals. but the plant definitely has plenty of huge thorns. any other photos I could take to help identify?

Transplanting shouldn't matter unless you cut all the canes off when you did it. It's the age of the canes that's important. A 4 year old cane could begin to get woody/barky covered. I turned and brightened up the photo to see it better and this looks like bark not canker to me.

Thank you for the replies.

I was hoping that was the case.

It was just that the woody growth looked, to me at least, very different from my other roses and I was worried that if this was diseased, it could spread.

Kitty,

Thanks so much! How has multiflora behaved for you in your clay? As much as I despite Dr. Huey, it does have its merits here in our soil. If multiflora is a better alternative though I'd prefer it.

Josh

You can see what's left of the multiflora. It's the big mass in the middle going straight down. Two roots fused into one and then began to rot away as the own roots took over. If own roots don't grow, the plant slowly fades away. I try to improve the soil to give the multiflora roots a chance until new own roots grow but sooner or later, my alkaline water and the breakdown of the redwood and peat in the hole will be the end of any multiflora root the rose has. It lasts longer in a pot than in the ground.

Thank you, Cynthia! I've been transferring those which have started rooting in the foam cups into the bands to conserve room. It appears to be working just fine. Being able to nearly double the number per flat makes a HUGE difference when space is limited. I encountered something rather unusual yesterday. I'd combined six varieties in the same wrap. Three of them callused beautifully. Three just sat there and have done nothing. All were cut from plants in the same place in the garden and all are varieties which have successfully rooted previously, though not necessarily through wrapping. Evidently these three possibly didn't contain the necessary nutrient levels or required different temperature or moisture levels. I rewet the paper, leaving it damper and wrapped them so sit for another week or so to see what happens. Thanks! Kim

Hmm, that is a puzzle. Sounds like it's fortunate that those 3 slacker cuttings didn't mold or otherwise protest at the process so that you can try Plan B. It's infinitely reassuring to hear experts like you have to take several tries at this process, as I'm sure I'll have many questions like that whenever I get enough time to try cuttings. Regardless, it's just one more testament to the individual variability of roses, even under the same conditions.

Roses - often puzzling, but never boring!

Cynthia

Don't know if this would work or not as I'm not bothered by deer even though we have a lot of them just a mile North of us.
How about getting an electric fence unit like the ones they use to keep cattle inside the fences. Using insulated wire just run it around to each rose bush. Maybe make a few 'trunk' lines that you tap off from to reach the bushes. You would only need a single strand of wire from the trunk line to the plant. Strip off about 2 inches of the insulation at the end of the wire, fold it back onto itself and twist it together. That way there would be no sharp ends. Then mount it such that it does not hit the plant but would hit the deer when it reaches in to eat the flowers. A piece of bamboo with the wire attached should work.
Put the whole thing on a timer so it only comes on when the deer are out.
Maybe instead of putting it among the bushes you could place them down the walking paths. As the deers walked by it would push the stick out of the way until it came to the end, then Zap, deer is out of thereâ¦.. After about the 3rd of 4th one they run into they will think twice about coming back.
Of course you should first check to see if our Socialist government allows that.

Fencing may be the single most effective deer deterrent. The problem is that it can be unsightly and impractical to install. We have used both fencing and Deer Repellent Packs to keep deer away from our landscaping and flowers. The Packs are good for 90 days and can simply be hung right on the plants you want to protect.

Here is a link that might be useful: Easy Deer Repellent

I don't take anything off unless it's broken or damaged in some way. If the canes are green to the tips I leave the already healed cuts alone. Same thing with the roots. Only broken or damaged ones are taken off before planting. I soak the entire plant, canes and all, before planting.

I've never had to do that until I bought from a certain well known overpriced and overmarketed establishment in the UK. The state of the plants I was sent (in 3 different orders) was such that it necessitated me doing so. For some plants this meant that almost half of the cane lengths of what where far from overgrown plants had to go...
Nik

This post was edited by nikthegreek on Mon, Feb 24, 14 at 2:18

Pat from RU emailed me and said it's not available. I would love to get it from her.

Interesting post. I grew Tuscan Sun when it was first introduced. I loved how the colors were pretty from the bud stage to the fully open stage even if they changed along the way. Mine was own root (which is how it was offered when first introduced). Unfortunately it seemed to grow "backwards". I had it for about 4 years and by the 4th it was down for the count. It had the best of everything so the only thing I could attribute it's diminshing vigor to was our zone 7 winters (it is an orange after all and they are usually susceptible to cold snaps). I have never forgotten it though, and when I saw it offered grafted on Dr. Huey this year I was all excited. Will certainly be looking around for it at our local rose nurseries. I'm hoping that grafted will do better for my garden. Very nice rose. Good as a cut flower too.....Maryl

I got Lila Vidri as Leila Verde back in the day from Arena. I have two original grafted ones from Arena, and have made many own-root cuttings of it over the years, most of which I've given away to friends. It roots pretty easily, and does very well as an own-root plant. Truly spectacular fragrance (I specialize in fragrant roses), with excellent form that lasts well. Great color too. Sort of a FL/HT blend. I am always amazed at why this rose isn't more available from our own-root nurseries. Dot roses may be 30 minute roses in general, but Lila/Leila isn't one of them. Worth finding.

Trade Gris reminds me of my Vol de Nuit (Night Flight).

I am the most interested in Lila Vidri. It seems like it was a short lived rose in commerce. Supply & demand?