21,400 Garden Web Discussions | Roses

"Paul, you need to give '27-07-16' to RVR to release as well....PLEASE!!!! "
I don't know where this plant is anymore - it may have been discarded already. IIRC it was a floppy shrub with an unattractive growth habit. I seem to remember it being stingy with repeat as well.

Paul, thanks for the info!!! I love the rose for its color and unbelievable texture...it almost looks fuzzy, or like velvet. I like what you bring to the table with your roses. It's hard to put my finger on it, and I just realized that's the essential draw they have. "There's just something about it..."
Modern roses keep coming out with more unique colors, more perfect form, better resistance, etc...but somehow many of them still end up feeling generic. I like roses with personality, that generate a feeling or response...especially if it's mysterious.
Anyway...floppy roses with unattractive growth habits and stingy repeat never stopped D.A..... hehe >;^)


I'm in warm, coast influenced CA but the only one that stands out on your list would Pope John Paul II - long vase life, smell to impress, and a lovely shape to this large one (4-5 ft) with long stems and not a lot of thorns.
Another long in the vase HT is Veteran's Honor but it's not big on fragrance to my nose anyway.

Hi Lyn, thank you for your lovely post. OK, now I have a confession to make - that's not the rose that sunk. This (below) is the rose that sunk, poor devil. It looks somewhat less photogenic, though to be fair, this is not its finest hour.
Reassuring to hear that your roses thrived, though I would have expected no less. We too have well-draining soil, composed of equal parts of sand, big rocks, and small rocks. The mini-crater really does bother me, so I think I will add 2 inches of good dirt with some Sea Soil mixed in, then add a couple of inches of bark mulch to protect from the coming winter rains.
Thank you very much for taking the time to help me, very good of you.
Pauline


Hi seil, thank you for your response. I'm getting the message that these lovely plants are pretty tough, and determined to live. Except for the odd one I've killed.
Just took this picture of blooms on a Jacob's Robe climber, planted this spring. I'm hoping the rose will cover the arch with fragrant blooms.
Thanks again.
Pauline
Pauline


Blackgavotte and Canadianrose,
Here is an alternative method of propagating roses which may prove to have a much higher success rate than cutting. You need to do it quickly though before the rose becomes dormant. I would also suggest sealing the wound in the cane as soon as you cut the new root system off.
http://jack-rosarian.blogspot.com/2012/09/propagating-roses-by-air-layering-north.html?m=1
Best of luck
Josh

I missed my window for doing semi-ripe cuttings but will have a go at the old favourite, hardwood cuttings trenched in a nursery bed. I usually wait till leafdrop and winter dormancy, so end of October(ish). Nice quarter inch canes, with 2/3 incipient buds (around 8 inches long), stuck in a slit made with a spade. No cover, north side of house or garden. Can be done in a 5litre pot. Takes a whole year for a good root system to grow (no tugging or 'testing') so you would have a nice little plant, this time next year, ready to lift and transplant during dormancy. Not the most reliable (50% maybe), but certainly the easiest and least stress.

That's very interesting, Sidos. I wonder what others who have grown Eden would say--any similar kinds of situations or experiences?
Haven't decided yet what to do. Because Eden is so special, I'd like to re-plant her, but then I remember her less than wonderful traits (slow re-bloom and not very profuse, for instance), and then I start thinking of some lovely Austin climbers I wouldn't mind trying out . . .
Just don't know yet. For now, I'm just grateful for all the helpful input I'm getting here, as we try to figure out what happened.
Kate

Now that I think about it, my Eden can get pretty dry and stay happy. I've never had mine planted in a heavy/wet spot, but I can vouch that she may need less water than other roses.
If you have room, I hope you replace her (or yours may bounce back) :) Yours is so gorgeous!
I've tried various pruning techniques to try to get better bloom on my Eden. Mine had too many older canes, apparently. I pruned some so that she made new laterals, and those had good rebloom this summer! She may be one that likes what I call 'rejuvenation pruning'. My New Dawns like that, too.

It has to do with what they use for rootstock -- the different rules for Pickering and Palatine. Pickering imported theirs from Europe and Palatine grew their own. There were some (retaliatory) rule changes in the import/export regulations (that had zero to do with roses or rose politics or Pickering) and Pickering came out the loser, or so I've heard.


Beats me. I have this problem with almost every rose I grow. Off hand, I'd say there are three roses in my garden that have stayed within the size predicted by the growers: The Prince, Tamora, and Ebb Tide. That's it! Right now, fool that I am, I believed that Princess Alexandra of Kent would be compact--ha. I am faced with moving her if she gets much bigger, and I have no place to put her. It's looking like Young Lycidas will be the same. And don't get me started on the giant Ascot. Please don't believe HMF on this one. They are soooo far off on the size estimate given in their description of this rose. Diane

"They" (HMF) only reports what site users provide them. If the information is not what you experience, do everyone a favor and post it in the comments section on the rose page, NOT on a photo comment. Photo comments get lost with the photos. Go to the rose's page and comment there where it remains with the page so anyone checking comments will see it.
Help Me Find doesn't grow any roses, nor do they test them or independently check on the validity of any information the ARS or any other organizations provide. They are simply a reporting tool. How accurate, complete, "good" they can be depends upon how freely WE share what We experience with the roses in question.
The sizes given on the site are primarily what is provided in the registration information provided by the ARS, which is provided them by the raiser/introducer of the roses. If that doesn't jive with what it does for you, post a comment containing where you are, any special conditions you deal with and how the thing performed for you. Imagine how many prickly Kudzu plants your garden would be missing if those who had already discovered the issues thought enough to share them before you checked there. Kim

nanodoll, I was able to obtain some of the roses of Mathias Tantau Sr., and Jr. especially, when Eurodesert closed. Some of those are 'Goldregen' ('Golden Rain'). 'Landora' ('Sunblest'), 'Pussta' ('New Daily Mail'). I have 'Cinnabar' and 'Juliska' from Vintage, and the famous HTs, "Tropicana', 'Fragrant Cloud', 'Anneliese Rotherberger' ('Oregold'), and 'Monica' in cheapo body bags, so if they don't survive the winter I am not out too much.
'Fragrant Cloud' is one of my all time favorite roses. Love, love the color, in all stages and the fragrance is to die for.
'Pussta' is one of the best floribundas I have ever grown or seen, and I can't understand why it is not better known and more often sold.
They are a bit challenging in my climate, cold and wet, but with a fert regimen and winter protection, they have thrived so far.
I get lots of compliments on both 'Golden Rain' and 'Sunblest', even though both are often dismissed as inferior yellow roses. Possibly that is because yellow is challenging in our climate, so not often seen in roses.
Hans Evans took over the company in 1985. I am not so familiar with his work. I do have 'Diadem', a pink floribunda from 87. So far I am a bit underwhelmed, but this only the first year I have had it.

Thank you for this information. I love Evers' roses and want more of the newer ones. The three I do have--Ascot (Palatine has this one), Bernstein-Rose, and Augusta Luise, I love--I even have multiples. The ones I want now are available only in Europe so far. Here's a pic of Ascot. Disregard spotted old gardener's hand in the corner-ha. Diane


How fun to meet everyone! Must have missed this, wasn't around too much in August!
Here is me this morning after dropping my little ones off for their first day of school!

Here are said little ones...my favorite garden helpers on their first day of school!

They grow up too fast!!
Andrea

I've been very happy with the foliage on my Mutabilis. It does have a different growth pattern from most roses. It's very airy but I think that also suits the delicateness of the blooms. This was mine in August when EVERYTHING else is pretty much covered in black spot. And this is far from a mature plant as it's only about a one year old rooted cutting.


Maybe it depends on where Mutabilis is grown and in what orientation. Mine is in a dry and hot climate but backed against a wall and the open side receives at most sun until midday and quite a bit less in the fall and winter. It's quite full and in fact you can't see the wall. I believe Mutabilis benefits from occasional pruning and even a severe haircut every four to five years won't hurt it. Mine doesn't put out much new growth unless it's cut back at least a little bit every now and then, up to perhaps a quarter of its size. When it's left untended for too long it develops long, thin canes with fewer leaves and flowers.
Ingrid

Rose slugs (sawfly larvae), which are green worms on the underside of the leaves. The translucent white spots are from the young worms grazing off the lower cuticle. They may have mostly grown up and pupated by now. If you catch them early in the season, you can just wipe them off the bottom of damaged leaves. You can also spray with an insecticide containing spinosad, reaching the underside of the leaves.
I am concerned about the strong branching shoot in the picture, which might indicate rose rosette virus disease. Please give us a couple of sharp images of that.

You're welcome. From what I see about the label on line:
VEGETABLES, HERBS, SPICES, ROSES, HOUSEPLANTS, FLOWERS, TREES,
AND SHRUBS.
APPLICATION INSTRUCTIONS
ferti-lomeî
ROSE, FLOWER & VEGETABLE SPRAY is an effective fungicide for the prevention and control of various Fungal Diseases including Powdery Mildew, Black Spot, Downy Mildew, Anthracnose, Rust,
Leaf Spot, Botrytis, Needle Rust, Scab and Flower, Twig and Tip Blight, and Alternaria. As a preventative,
apply ferti-lomeî
ROSE, FLOWER & VEGETABLE SPRAY on a 7 to 14 day schedule until the potential
for Disease development is no longer present. To control Disease already present, apply ferti-lomeî
ROSE, FLOWER & VEGETABLE SPRAY on a 7 day schedule until Disease pressure is eliminated. Then
continue spraying on a 14 day schedule to prevent the Disease from reoccurring. To prevent Rust Leaf Spot
Diseases, Anthracnose and Scab, begin applications at the first sign of Spring budding. To prevent Powdery
Mildew, apply in mid-Summer or when Disease is first detected. Continue applications until Disease pressure no longer exists.
MIXING INSTRUCTIONS
Mix ferti-lomeî
ROSE, FLOWER & VEGETABLE SPRAY at the rate of 2 tablespoons (1 fluid ounce) per
gallon of water. Thoroughly mix solution and spray all Plant surfaces (including undersides of leaves) until
completely wet. Frequently mix solution as you spray.
Hopefully, you didn't exceed the 2 TBS per gallon. Even at that rate, if your weather is expected to be as hot as you've indicated, you might experience some burn. But, what is worse? Scorched leaves of black spotted, falling foliage? You're right, it's always something! Your higher heat is going to help prevent some of the disease spread because it can get too hot for the spores to germinate. Until it begins remaining cooler, I wouldn't spray be once every two weeks for fear of burn. Good luck! Kim

Since oil sprays are not very effective against blackspot, I would avoid spraying in the evening because the water in the spray, staying wet overnight, might cause germination to occur. (It is certain that blackspot needs long wetting to germinate, but I am just speculating about the effect of oil spray.)
In the morning, plants are cool and well hydrated, so sprays are less likely to burn. Sprays will dry quickly, which is good for a number of reasons. Be sure the soil is well moistened before applying sprays, especially oil, sulfur, chlorothalonil, or bicarbonate.




First of all, thanks to everybody for your insight...there's a lot of excellent information here already.
Some of the leaves have the necrotic spots described here and in some cases it has produced tiny holes in them. In other instances, irregular sections of the leaves have died and turn brown, particularly on the ends. At first I thought it was heat or fertilizer burn but it would only appear on a leaf here or there. I noticed the burnt-looking parts had discrete, fuzzy black undersides. Then, of course, the spots showed up. That's why I wondered if I'm dealing with both, but if they're hard to differentiate at certain phases...that's good to know.
Given what's been suggested here I guess I'll just deal with it. Some of my HTs have defoliated low down but look fine up top, and some of the leaves that are only marginally infected seem to not be getting any worse.
Ians, Michael, and Paul, thanks again. I don't know why the other photos didn't work but I'll try to fix it when I get home.
This post was edited by racin_rose on Thu, Sep 5, 13 at 15:14
Leaf areas that are killed by fertilizer burn or whatever may be colonized by botrytis fungus, which could produce the fuzzy underside you describe. I would not be concerned about it. The pictured leaf with brown spots along the margin could have suffered fertilizer burn. That same leaf may have cercospora spots that are coalescing into a mass.
If ashy-looking centers drop out of spots leaving a purple-ringed shothole, that is anthracnose. You can have both diseases on the same plant.
I agree it is probably OK not to do anything.