22,796 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
Thank you, Charleney, for your comments. Though there is more than one trunk (is "trunk" the proper term?), this trunk in the tallest and most rose-filled of my Golden Showers climbing rose. The slice out of the trunk is within a foot of ground level, so I hate to think it might need to be cut back. I must rely on you kind folks with more knowledge than I on caring for roses and will remain patience to see what happens.
I started like you. Please look around this forum... Not sure where you purchased it from but some retailers are notorious for mislabeling and not great quality. I was discouraged the first year after all three expensive roses died, and then found these forums...including which roses do well in my area, which ones need spraying for disease, etc...
Here it is.
Here is a link that might be useful: Antique forum link
Great to know that GC is vigorous. I planted it in the back of the border behind so it should feel free to spot away. I have a Blaze Improved that spots like there is no tomorrow each year, but the spotting does not seem to affect its health all that much. It is in the middle of Laguna and Cinderela Fairy Tale (which I am training as a small climber). Both Laguna and CFT basically get no spot at all, and they help to hide BI's naked limbs.
Yes, Crocus Rose has been a carefree rose for me. I have a 3-year (or 4-year) old ownroot that is doing great. Very blackspot resistant. It is tip hardy here as well. Both the bloom and fragrance is so so, but no one is perfect. I like it a lot.
Thanks
The thing about growing roses in our area is that some blackspot is inevitable, even if you spray, for many roses. As a result, my expectations are more lax than those of someone who exhibits, or who wants roses to be "on" all-season. Personally, I'm fine if a rose is growing and blooming despite getting spotty leaves during "that time of year." It's when a rose starts losing the battle and dying back, or simply "never looking good" that I would consider getting rid of it.
'Golden Celebration' did get blackspot back on Long Island, but it continued growing bigger each year, and had beautiful flowers, so I kept it. Yes, it looked a little sad for a few weeks in late July and early August, but those leaves were soon replaced, and it was fresh and clean again in time for the last flush of flowers. I bought it again this time because with so many antiques, I was aching for a bit of yellow to throw in. Are there healthier yellows out there? Probably. But I wanted GC again, so I got it. If you need to have your roses spot-free all season in NJ, be prepared to spray, and be willing to have a limited set of choices.
:-)
~Christopher
All of my roses in Green Bay WI died back to the ground or almost to the ground this year. Most are now growing robust shoots up from the base. I just cut back the dead wood to make room for the new growth on Carefree Wonder, Bonica, Nearly Wild, Seven Sisters, Double Red Knockout, and a few others. It was a really tough winter for us.
The single stem, "high center" roses you saw at the florist are hybrid teas, although I think there are high centered floribundas too. I am novice who grows very few hybrid teas. Assuming that hardiness is not an issue, here are one red, one peach/apricot HTs get limited blackspot in my Northeast NJ garden.
Red
Firefighter (Mine died back to the ground this winter, and is slow to come back.)
Peach/Apricot
Valencia (Mine was in a pot and overwintered in my garage)
Both are borderline here in zone 6b in terms of hardiness. Zone 5 might be a bit challenge for HTs, but it seems that quite a few people on this forum grow HTs successfully in colder climate than mine.
Good luck.
The following was stated: "If they can prove the therory to be correct in which your articles speak then no doubt they will ban those types of sprays from the market someday... "
H.Kuska comment. It would be nice if we lived in a perfect world. The following statement appears in a very recent published, reviewed scientific paper. "This inconsistency between scientific fact and industrial claim may be attributed to huge economic interests, which have been found to falsify health risk assessments and delay health policy decisions [41]."
H.Kuska comment. Reference 41 is: "41. European Environment Agency. EEA Report. Copenhagen, Denmark: European Environment Agency; 2013. Late lessons from early warnings: science, precaution, innovation."
Regarding tebuconazole they state: "In fact, 8 formulations out of 9 were clearly on average several hundred times more toxic than their APs, ranging from 2-3 times more toxic for pirimicarb or prochloraz to 1056 times more toxic for tebuconazole. Results were similar for all cell types."
Here is a link that might be useful: link to recent scientific paper
Besides the insecticide being toxic stuff you don't need all those other products. If you don't have a specific insect infestation why spray for bugs? There are specific insecticides for specific bugs and you could be killing off some of the beneficial bugs that help control the pesky ones which could lead to a worse pest problem down the road. I presume you fertilize you plants regularly so why add that to your spray program too? Just use the proper thing for the specific problem you have at the moment and don't add stuff you don't need.
On most all roses as the wood ages it will get a darker bark like look to it. The older the cane the dark it will be. Those dark canes on yours are probably the oldest ones. As long as there is growth coming out of the cane at some point it's still alive and healthy. If growth further up starts to die off then there is a problem.
Paul's videos are wonderful so check them all out!
I would guess that the remaining cane was injured by cold and will not support much if any bloom. I would take it out to encourage healthy new growth. Recovery from this treatment depends on how much root mass the rose has. Just this morning I pruned a rose nearly to the ground that I thought had come through winter OK, but was damaged. This was an established plant, so I'm sure it will be fine. I'm not sure about yours.
IME, a lot of Austins aren't really suitable for being grown own-root. They just sit there, don't get much bigger, then die back. Since most people growing them in the northeast, get them budded from Canada, there doesn't seem to be a lot of info in how they do around here without a rootstock to push them. Organic fertilizer will help, as will HEAT.
My recollection is that Mary Rose has a heavily damask scent. It also was a blackspot magnet.