22,152 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
I got to enjoy a nice, warm day to melt the foot of snow and try to evaluate my roses, too.
I have two own-root roses that will have to grow from the roots because all the canes are brown, dry and terrible looking. I hope they do 'resprout'! They are the ones I put off ordering from Vintage for years and finally got last season :( They are both climbers, so hopefully they have some natural vigor.
Then I have one grafted Austin that has all its canes lost except possibly for a big fat woody cane that just looks woody. I'm hoping that fat one can regrow something green, too. That one is replaceable at least!
I take it very cold temperatures for an extended time can make it look like the plants have never been watered, lol? My dead branches look quite shrivelled. I know we had enough moisture this winter, so it must be the cold (or cold winds?). I'm not used to winter damage, so it's freaky.
We only got to 4 or 5 F, but the wind chills were lower. Usually under 15 is pretty rare and doesn't last days.
meredith, sounds like my yard. I even have massive leaf loss on my Jasmine vine that had made it all the way up my deck (which is one story above the backyard). I am hoping it will come back, but I've never seen this happen before. Some of my gardenias look ok, but have some brown areas. My Cleara bushes leaves are almost black, I'm not sure if they will come back. I did see some new growth on some roses, even with the ugly looking canes, so maybe they will be ok.
I'm jumping in here with my thoughts. What you have will definitely work. I've seen many large roses growing on such a structure. As you said, the vertical with the screw eyes will be very helpful with the support...that's how I've seen it done. Then, use the plastic tape (or similar) to attach. You are doing it the right way. Looks good.
A rose that has done well here in TN is "Parade" it's a deeper pink but with a full continuous bloom....vigorous and healthy!
Here is a link that might be useful: Parade at HMF
Sorry, I got behind on my forum reading and just found this topic. I put some bushs of Campfire in last spring and so I can't yet talk about hardiness although I think that is a given. We really enjoyed the flowers. The bushs bloomed all summer and were not bothered by bugs nor did they show any disease. The blooms keep changing colour so they are sometimes yellow and sometimes red and sometimes a combination. Definitely a winner in my Ontario garden. I will let everyone know how they do overwinter and into the second season.
If there is one, itâÂÂs Chrysler Imperialâ¦in my opinion, one of the best smelling HTs ever! I also have Mr Lincoln which has that old rose fragrance, but to me Firefighter and CI are more strongly scented. For a more citrusy scent, but very strong and heavenly, you might try Eternal Flame or Pope John Paul II or for a spicy, clove type scent there are Double Delight, Fragrant Cloud and Dolly Parton. Those all are good cut flowers, as well. This forum has several threads on fragrant roses you could search, but those are the HTs that come to mind off hand. If you are interested in OGRs, there are a lot of those with strong old rose fragrances, too, that you could search.
Ingrid. Yes it is hard, isn't it?
I am glad your dentist is gentle too. It makes all the difference.
We will be able to compare notes Kitty, as the season progresses. Both being new to Firefighter.
Henry. There is no sign of mildew yet, but it does have blackspot. This is the first time I have seen blackspot on a rose, since I moved here. I am not too worried though, as I expect it to clear up as we move into summer.
Daisy
From the last paragraph of the page linked below (it sounds like they recommend using a foliar application for the John's Recipe product):
Fertilizer
Roses will bloom quite nicely on their own with lots of sunshine, but if you want more (and what gardener doesnâÂÂt?), you can fertilize. Fertilizing is for the active growing season and while roses never really go dormant in Central Texas, you donâÂÂt want to create a lot of new growth when it might freeze off or stress out a plant trying to cope with a brutal summer. March to May and then October to December are the best time slots for fertilizing. Lady Bug Brand Flower Power is a good choice if you want a dry, sprinkle-on option. Each feeding lasts 4 to 6 weeks and needs only to be watered in. Lady Bug JohnâÂÂs Recipe is also an excellent choice for those who prefer a more regular weekly or bimonthly feeding for the whole garden and are not afraid to wield a hose-end sprayer.
Here is a link that might be useful: Ladybug Brand How To Articles: Roses
Lainey,
I haven't heard that about NJ and I doubt it (as RRD really doesn't lend itself to spraying.)
There is a plant disease note for Maryland where two scientists announced that they had successfully gotten RRD to take in Maryland by graft augmentation. To my hypersensitive reading, they were really pleased with what they had done.
Sometimes when you plant a rose the roots get damaged, and cannot support the top growth, and it dies. To prevent this, I would immediately prune back your rose to maybe 12 inches high. Take off all of the blooms and buds - they will be replaced if it survives. After you have pruned it down to a small size, DO NOT feed it - just make sure it has lots of water (which it needs temporarily because of lack of roots) and good drainage - that is very important. If it survives, it will just sit there for a while (weeks) looking like it is not doing anything. It is actually growing roots under the dirt, which you cannot see. Then it will start to sprout leaf buds, and eventually flower buds, and away you go.
Jackie
I'm surprised to hear of vigor issues with this rose. I cut mine back to around 2 ft every winter, and by end of growing season, it's always back to at least 6 ft with many new canes (picture is from early August and that's a 6 ft fence behind it). It also has very little blackspot here in our humidity even without spraying. I believe mine is grafted on Dr. Huey, but I can't remember...some of my roses in the "Easy" group are own root and some grafted, but all are very vigorous here.
It typically take a rose 3 years to establish, but it depends on the variety. Some grow roots first, then top growth. The phrase is: First year sleep, second year creep, third year leap. If the canes are still green, that is a good sign!
If it was a soft new bud that broke off at its' base from the cane or from the bud union then it wont regenerate from the same place. Guard buds spring from a growing cane that is cut off in the growing region where there are meristematic cells. From one you will get two. BTW, if you break off a sucker at its' base it wont regenerate but if you cut it off above the base you may get two suckers.
So you do find that the compost alone doesn't provide enough food to the roses and that fertilizer is still needed?
Compost benefits the soil and it's structure. I don't believe that it has all the nutrients that roses require. As I said before, I don't like useless work. I wouldn't' use the fertilizer if it wasn't necessary. However, using fertilizer once a month and a foliar spray in between takes very little money and/or labor.
I think asking Kim (Roseseek) more technical questions would be a good idea. He is a great resource on this forum.
I just spent the morning with my babies, , , no work involved, and it's a very uplifting thing to do. Even the little work I do on my roses is very much worthwhile to me.
You DO have to be a rose 'nut' I'm sure. But I love it.
Have a great weekend,
andreark