21,402 Garden Web Discussions | Roses

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kitty(SoCal 9A)

LOL! A fluff piece.

    Bookmark   August 30, 2013 at 12:45AM
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kittymoonbeam

He never tells us except to say that he guesses that the plant sucks the color out to recycle it again. What about pale pinks that bleach out? The rest is just wandering thoughts.

    Bookmark   August 30, 2013 at 12:48PM
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welltraveled(z5Mid Mich)

I always prune in the spring too,but the bottom of all the canes are completely bare and way too tall will it help or hurt to prune in the fall??????

    Bookmark   August 28, 2013 at 4:26PM
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Krista_5NY

I don't think it will help to prune in the fall. I prune in spring when the rose is most energetic, as I think this maximizes blooming.

    Bookmark   August 30, 2013 at 8:21AM
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paparoseman(z8 WA. PO.)

Andrea, at the time in spring when you would hard prune an HT is the time to thin out small canes on most Austins to open up the bush. For young plants like yours just snap off the old blooms when they are done and you will have done all you need to do. And don't worry, after you prune out the old canes the bush will grow new canes and fill back in but look nicer during the first main flush. I normally only cut back the main canes by a third unless they are old ones.

    Bookmark   August 29, 2013 at 8:32PM
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paparoseman(z8 WA. PO.)

Andrea, at the time in spring when you would hard prune an HT is the time to thin out small canes on most Austins to open up the bush. For young plants like yours just snap off the old blooms when they are done and you will have done all you need to do. And don't worry, after you prune out the old canes the bush will grow new canes and fill back in but look nicer during the first main flush. I normally only cut back the main canes by a third unless they are old ones.

    Bookmark   August 29, 2013 at 8:35PM
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dublinbay z6 (KS)

In Zone 6 (at least in my region in Kansas) , it is best if you put the graft at soil level or a couple inches below. If it is at soil level, just provide some winter cover to help protect it. Apply the winter mulch after freezing weather arrives.

Of course if you have a winter like we had this past year, protection probably is not needed at all. Warmest winter I remember in this region.

Burying the graft 1-2 inches is the usual winter protection, but no, at this point I wouldn't dig up the whole plant in order to plant it deeper. Give it some winter protection and in the spring, when it blooms, see what you have. If Dr. Huey is all you have left, well, that tells you what to do, doesn't it!

Kate

    Bookmark   August 29, 2013 at 7:12AM
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pembroke(6--Louisville KY)

Thanks to all. Lots of good info. Pembroke

    Bookmark   August 29, 2013 at 5:18PM
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diane_nj 6b/7a

Florida has the issue with nematodes attacking the roots. Can anyone explain how that manifests itself? Do the canes blacken from top down?

    Bookmark   August 29, 2013 at 2:41PM
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michaelg(7a NC Mts)

Good comments by Lyn.

Looking back, I need to say that my comment about drainage-not-a-problem was over-stated. I grew up on the Florida Ridge, and I tend to forget that so many people live in what used to be pine flat-woods, where the water table can rise to near the surface during the rainy season or after a hurricane, even when the topsoil is sandy. But the symptoms described by the OP don't sound like water-logging to me.

    Bookmark   August 29, 2013 at 2:50PM
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bart_2010(8/9 Italy)

I, too, have heard that aphids get rid of thrips. My sad tale is that I used to have tons of aphids,but no thrips; I started spraying (my main hope was to get rid of beetles). It did nothing to the beetles, got rid of aphids , and now I'm pretty sure I have thrips (regular kind),since some "invisible bug" chews up the blooms so badly! So my new thing is : do NOT spray against insects! and hopefully Nature will balance things out again,and the aphids will come back...a sadder but wiser bart

    Bookmark   August 20, 2013 at 7:18AM
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greentiger87

Some thrips have a problem with high summer temps. Chilli thrips do not. I know they're still active because they're heavily damaging knockout roses that are used in the landscape around my neighborhood and town, and occasionally attacking other plants that I'm not spraying (papaya, hawthorne, hardy hibiscus, jasmine).

As for the actual products I'm using, I've used many - and haven't seen a huge variation in performance. The ultrarefined mineral oils (summer horticultural oil) are by far the least phytotoxic. In any case, I use them at night *after* the leaves have had a chance to cool down. As long as the leaf surface temperature is cool to the touch, and won't rise significantly in the next couple of hours, I don't see leaf damage. I've also used "Organocide". Finally, I've mixed plant oils directly with a surfactant (either soap or a non-ionic surfactant, sold as spreader-sticker). I've used canola, sesame, neem, karanja, mustard, as well as these oils infused with insecticidal spices/herbs. If there was any difference, I didn't see it. When used at less than ideal conditions, I did see light phytotoxicity when using plant oils.

I've used both Safer Insecticidal Soap (potassium salts of fatty acids) and Murphy Oil Soap (potassium salts of fatty acids, plus an amine oxide surfactant). Both work. Safer is slightly more expensive and easier on plants. When used in optimal conditions (low leaf surface temperature), I haven't seen any phytotoxicity from either product on roses. I have not tried using dish soap.

    Bookmark   August 29, 2013 at 11:03AM
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PaulineMary(8b)

Hi Donald,

"Shrubblers?" Can you use such expressions on a public forum? Of course gardeners are a rugged lot, so are probably hardened to it.

I'll let you know which form of unmentionables we settle on.

Pauline

    Bookmark   August 29, 2013 at 1:26AM
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Campanula UK Z8

I have Nahema and it is proving to be a bit of a miff in that the amount of dieback this winter was astonishing. It is also a very stiff rose which is not amenable to training. On the other hand, it has a wonderful fragrance and the silvery pink blooms are classically elegant, lasting well in a vase. Put it in your warmest spot (it really doesn't appreciate cold winds). Vancouver Island sounds as if it has a climate very comparable to England.

    Bookmark   August 29, 2013 at 3:39AM
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joshtx(8a)

Absolutely.

I posted a picture of my Sharifa Asma's first spring flush a few months back. Big, beautiful, palm sized, amber and blush colored, intoxicatingly fragrant blooms.

The bloom that just opened on Sharifa today was a singlet, nearly white, and lacked fragrance.

The heat does awful things to roses...awful things.

Josh

    Bookmark   August 29, 2013 at 1:13AM
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canadian_rose(zone 3a)

Which is probably why here in the cooler zone 3 (close to the mountains), my roses' blooms can get huge! The colors are usually intense. So, I guess a shade net here would be a bad idea. :)
Carol

    Bookmark   August 29, 2013 at 1:27AM
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lainey2(7a)

Could this be why my roses love fish emulsion?

    Bookmark   August 28, 2013 at 10:07PM
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henry_kuska

Yes, fish emulsion also adds micronutrients. See:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fish_emulsion

Here is a link that might be useful: link for above

    Bookmark   August 29, 2013 at 12:07AM
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kittymoonbeam

Another reason is that on a day like today, at the end of the day the roses have all crisped in the heat when, in the morning, they looked great.

    Bookmark   August 28, 2013 at 9:23PM
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lainey2(7a)

My house is full of roses three seasons. I take them to friends and family. Seems as though they last longer when I cut them in the evening. It may be due to michaelg's sugar. Thanks, everyone.

    Bookmark   August 28, 2013 at 10:16PM
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thorngrower sw. ont. z5

This is a pic in 2008 planted in 2003. Its 6-7 feet tall and 7-8 feet wide now. I thought it would be a small shrub. Grafted on multiflora from pickering.

    Bookmark   August 28, 2013 at 9:22PM
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thorngrower sw. ont. z5

As you can see I have allot perennials growing. Now that its at the larger size there is no room for other things to grow. Its on the left of this pic...It blooms nonstop all summer.I'm not a big fan of fragrance. It has a slight smell I think.

    Bookmark   August 28, 2013 at 9:32PM
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amelie325(6b)

Hi Sue!
I have several DA's, all bought at local garden centers. You can check if there are any nurseries in your area that sell them (via DA's usa website). All of these were in 5 gal. pots, which really boosts your garden's maturity :) Also, this summer, I ordered a band size from Heirloom Roses. Which is nice, because they ship all year round.
In my garden, I have (from longest to newest):

-Windermere (petals shatter easily, but has a lovely myrrh/citrus smell)
-Abraham Darby (wonderful scent, very big/full blooms, good disease resistance in my zone 6)
-The Generous Gardner (really pretty, big blooms and nice fragrance)
-James Galway (smaller med. sized blooms, incredibly tight blooms that stay on for weeks)
-Charlotte (suffering from blackspot this year, slow to rebloom in this really wet weather)
-Munstead Wood (gorgeous dark red and old fashioned, quartered bloom, with phenomenal old rose fragrance)
-Crown Princess Margareta (just bought, no blooms yet, but it has taken off in its little band pot).

Just a note, from my experience DA roses tend to be rather bigger in US gardens (although, maybe MI will keep it a bit more restrained). So, just something to keep in mind when planning out their spaces in your garden :)

    Bookmark   July 14, 2013 at 12:04AM
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welltraveled(z5Mid Mich)

I am hoping Pickering roses in Canada will be allowed to send bare root david austins to US again next spring
Very inexpensive and I have over 50 that I have bought from hem over the years..Like about $15. Us each.
Us would not let them ship this past spring for some reason..

    Bookmark   August 28, 2013 at 4:29PM
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kittymoonbeam

These roses will be just fine. Next year will be a whole new group of fresh leaves and flowers and it will look like a whole new plant. It's going to look a little bare for a while but keep up the steady care and watch for new strong shoots from the base. I would spread some mulch around the base if you haven't done it already after raking up old fallen leaves. Cut off anything that's obviously dead and dry.

    Bookmark   August 27, 2013 at 8:15PM
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michaelg(7a NC Mts)

The tan spots that evolve into holes might be spot anthracnose disease. It is usually not too destructive. Blackspot spots are dark with fringed or notched margins. Blackspotted leaves will yellow and drop after, typically, two or three weeks. It is good practice to pick blackspotted leaves.

    Bookmark   August 28, 2013 at 3:16PM
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jim1961 Zone 6a Central Pa.

Thanks all!

    Bookmark   August 27, 2013 at 7:19PM
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jim1961 Zone 6a Central Pa.

Nobody from the east grows this rose???

    Bookmark   August 28, 2013 at 1:53PM
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maplerbirch(4)

During hot sunny periods of Summer I often spray down the leaves of trees, shrubs, Perennials and even annuals during the early morning hours when I know that the sun and humidity will allow the foliage to dry before noon, but also leaving enough moisture in the soil for days ahead.
Last year, during the severest drought in this location while I've been here, I discovered several ladybugs on my 'mother' rose plant. Later discovered Ladybugs on one of the daughter rose plants.

I too have wild areas around my garden, in fact entire forests define my landscape in a major way, and it seems to me that once the environment is correct, the Ladybugs will find a home and protect my roses from aphids.
It was the most amazing discovery that occurred during the more than 15 years at this location. :)

    Bookmark   August 27, 2013 at 6:45PM
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hoovb zone 9 sunset 23

It's fine and dandy if they all fly away. What you want to have them do is lay a bunch of eggs before they all fly away.

The larvae of them eat 50x as many aphids as the adults do. They look like little alligators with red stripes. Once you get a crop of those going, balance will be restored to The Force.

Just never use pesticides so you don't kill them off in the future.

eggs

larva -- hungry!

    Bookmark   August 28, 2013 at 11:59AM
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