21,400 Garden Web Discussions | Roses

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michaelg(7a NC Mts)

To prevent this, use sharp pruners and cut 3/16" or 1/4" above a bud site (a leaf attachment or a bump where a leaf used to be). Don't leave longer stumps, and don't hack and tear the bark. The short stump may turn black, but it will stop where the new growth comes out.

Pictures don't show this clearly, but the plant must have preserved green bark below where the secondary shoots are growing out. Otherwise they would not be growing. If they are going to bloom, I would let them bloom, and then I would probably prune to the next bud site down below the dead bark.You don't need to worry about the dead area spreading indiscriminately. The plant will usually protect itself. It's just that, as Seil says, stubs above a bud site are not worth protecting.

    Bookmark   August 26, 2013 at 3:08PM
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Alwayzbgrateful(8)

Awesome! Thank you again!

    Bookmark   August 26, 2013 at 9:50PM
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dublinbay z6 (KS)

RU is very picky about not sending out plants too early. My last frost date is usually around Apr. 15-20, but RU won't send me an order any earlier than May 15-20. I guess they want to make real sure that they won't have to replace a rose damaged by a freak late freeze.

Kate

    Bookmark   August 26, 2013 at 4:21PM
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racin_rose

I think RU is a good choice. I looked at QOS at a local nursery, who gets their Austins directly from D.A inTexas...every one of them was heavily virused. In fact, most of the D.A. roses are virused there. My Jubilee Celebration shows mild patterning on a leaf here and there, but is still a vigorous bloom machine...so who knows if it really matters...but if I had a choice I would rather it was RMV-free.

Good luck, it's really a lovely rose in person, and the leaves are so dark they almost have a bluish tinge.

    Bookmark   August 26, 2013 at 9:03PM
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dublinbay z6 (KS)

Good question, jim. I really don't know the answer. What do other posters think?

Kate

    Bookmark   August 26, 2013 at 5:50PM
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susan4952(5)

I have seen so many goofy things this year. Spring didn't start until the FOURTH OF JULY and I continued to water and feed as usual. Several of mine have the pattern you describe. I am chalking it up to fluctuating temps, turface in my planting holes of the new ones, and using Jacks early in the season. I thought my yellow leaved ones were water logged. I cut back on the water to compensate for the late start OD of water. I am VERY worried about an 8 yr old HoE. Same limp pale yellow leaves u describe.

    Bookmark   August 26, 2013 at 8:33PM
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dan_keil_cr Keil(Illinois z5)

After some searching I found The Charlatan. It is a shrub, Dainty Bess is a Hybrid Tea. Dainty Bess is a tall grower. Black spot resistance is fairly good. It throw singles as well as sprays. It is a little deeper pink than The Charlatan. The stamens are both a reddish color. To me, get both of them because they are both lovely. There is no mention of disease resistance I found it on helpmefind.com/roses.

    Bookmark   August 25, 2013 at 11:38PM
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Campanula UK Z8

The Charlatan, aka Sweet Pretty has a horrible tendency to mildew and is, sadly, not the healthiest rose. I suspect it would appreciate a warmer climate than I can offer in chilly, windy East Anglia. Dainty Bess has innate toughness....but it is a small rose for me - staying around the 3foot level and not particularly bushy. However, I am particularly fond of red stamens and would take either rose over Jacqueline du Pre - a totally defoliated and awkward 6 foot of rosey misery.

    Bookmark   August 26, 2013 at 6:28PM
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michaelg(7a NC Mts)

Mine wants to be at least 5' wide, but I think, given its relatively upright habit, you may be able to keep it in a 4' space. Prune the outer canes to an inward- or upward-facing bud eye less than 2' from the center of the plant. Mine doesn't mind being pruned to 3' high and wide in spring. Then take a foot or two of stem when deadheading.

The best policy is always to allow ample room, but those of us with small gardens are always tempted to pack an extra rose in. Better a slightly crowded 'Quietness' than no 'Quietness' at all. I'm so grateful to Pat Henry of RU for rescuing this great rose from obscurity.

    Bookmark   August 26, 2013 at 1:26PM
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jardineratx(zone 8, Texas)

Oh, I am so glad to hear that Quietness will not sulk when pruned. I really didn't want to move the two bushes, but the deer munching on them was absolutely constant. It appears that they were in their path, or they are particularly tasty to the deer, so I found a couple of spots for them to go to. The first one to be transplanted (to a deer-free zone) is already fully foliated and has several bloom buds on it. I agree a crowded Quietness is much better than no Quietness at all. In both locations they can grow as tall as they wish, but I will prune them occasionally to keep them in their more narrow space.
Molly

    Bookmark   August 26, 2013 at 1:34PM
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jim1961 Zone 6a Central Pa.

7' x 5' :-O

Holy crap Terryjean! You secretly feeding it steroids? lol
Thanks for the info Terryjean.

I was expecting TA to grow 4'-5 x 3'- 4'... hummmm
I will place him in a different location then I was going
too...

    Bookmark   August 26, 2013 at 10:55AM
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Terry Crawford

Good idea on placement, Jim. He is one robust gentleman. I also found another good-size youngster growing under him when I was pruning, so now there are two. And he gets no fertilizer other than a dose of Milorganite in the spring

    Bookmark   August 26, 2013 at 11:48AM
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jaxondel

Experienced gardeners certainly familiarize ourselves with label instructions and take those recommedations into consideration. We don't, however, slavishly allow those generic instructions to DICTATE how we incorporate products into our care regimens. Requirements vary wildly among rose varieties; they certainly vary from one locality to another; they fluctuate seasonally within localities; and, depending on weather patterns, entire growing season often vary radically from one year to the next. Disease pressures fluctuate accordingly.

Observant gardeners attempt to balance the variables, and strive to develop and maintain care programs that are safe and effective for their unique set of circumstances.

    Bookmark   August 26, 2013 at 9:32AM
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jaxondel

duplicate post

This post was edited by jaxondel on Mon, Aug 26, 13 at 10:07

    Bookmark   August 26, 2013 at 9:41AM
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nippstress - zone 5 Nebraska

Canadianrose - ah, phew (smile)! I've had such bad luck with Memorial Day I was wondering if it likes truly extreme temperatures (maybe zone 2), but if it's happy with you it should do OK in part shade for me if I get a good cultivar and get it past its first year. Thanks for clarifying that one. Doesn't mean it'll like the dry here, but it might have a fighting chance!

Cynthia

    Bookmark   August 25, 2013 at 7:20PM
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canadian_rose(zone 3a)

Diane - no thrips on Memorial Day for me. Only one that gets thrips here is Betty White in the first flush.

Cynthia - I love this rose. The fragrance will sweep you away.

Carol

    Bookmark   August 26, 2013 at 2:49AM
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pocajun(z9aLa)

Went to their website. I live very near to them and go to Grand Couteau every day and never heard of them. I will call them tomoorrow and try to find out where they are and what is going on there.

Patrick

    Bookmark   August 25, 2013 at 9:53PM
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alameda/zone 8

Their website shows some interesting roses. Will be interested to hear your report on them, Patrick. Always fun to try out a new rose nursery!

    Bookmark   August 26, 2013 at 12:58AM
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sara_ann-z6bok

Thanks again Michael, appreciate it.

    Bookmark   August 25, 2013 at 8:24PM
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dan_keil_cr Keil(Illinois z5)

With organic fertilizers, they are dependent on soil temperature for the microbes to break it down.So when the soil temps drop in the fall your fertilizer just sits there until spring. That is why I like to use it.
I use Monty's Joy Juice which is 95% organic. I will fertilize just one more time before I quit for the year.

    Bookmark   August 26, 2013 at 12:19AM
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sandandsun(9a FL)

Whenever I've advised bud nipping in the past, it was because I grow own root roses from bands or gallon size plants. It is a particularly good practice for young own root roses.

By the way, it should have been and always should be understood that I'm discussing own root culture. It is my only knowledge base. I gave up grafted roses very early in my gardening life and have not and will not return to them. That divorce is final, lol.

So, whether bud nipping makes any difference with young grafted roses I don't know. Logically, it would also help, but it may not be as critical as with young own root plants.

I would also recommend bud removal for any roses (including grafted ones) of any age that are demonstrating obvious weakness or stress.

    Bookmark   August 25, 2013 at 8:31PM
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dan_keil_cr Keil(Illinois z5)

In my area I recommend grow roots first, then leaves , then blooms.

    Bookmark   August 26, 2013 at 12:11AM
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joshtx(8a)

Rieley,

Could you snap a pic of the underside of the rose for us? That way we can determine if the rootstock has overtaken the plant.

Also, how hard did you prune it over the winter? Was it to the ground? Some climbing roses only bloom on old wood. It may be that your rose is such a climber and will bloom after the wood has matured.

    Bookmark   August 24, 2013 at 5:39PM
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hoovb zone 9 sunset 23

It looks like 'Dr Huey' to me also. You will know for sure if it is 'Dr Huey' if it blooms next spring on the canes it grew this year. (If they don't get killed by winter). The flowers will be a very pretty dark red, with not a whole lot of petals, and little or no fragrance.

    Bookmark   August 25, 2013 at 5:29PM
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Krista_5NY

A link to her member page:

Here is a link that might be useful: sheerbliss member page

    Bookmark   August 23, 2013 at 11:00AM
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peninsula_petals

Thank you!!!

    Bookmark   August 25, 2013 at 5:16PM
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roseseek

The easiest "mistake" to make with a mist system is to not get the duration and frequency set appropriately for your humidity levels. Where the evaporation rates are high due to aridity, you need more frequent mist spurts, of possibly greater duration. Where humidity or lack of heat reduce evaporation, it requires much less mist at greater intervals.

In Sherman Oaks, where jiminshermanoaks lived, he could mist his cuttings by spray bottle twice a day and they would work quite well. That canyon was continually cooler, damper and foggier due to the marine layer invading the valley through it than my hotter, sunnier hillside just eight miles away, but as close to the physical water. Here, I would have to spray every few hours (no exaggeration) to accomplish the same results.

Probably as important would be the choice of rooting medium. Half and half builders sand and perlite is what we used in the old mister at The Huntington and with fog for ten seconds, every minute in full, southern sun and exposed to the wind worked perfectly when temps were high. Of course, somewhere like Camarillo, where it's twenty degrees cooler on average and the humidity is greatly higher, the medium could be heavier with less frequent fog/mist of shorter duration or they would more easily rot. Kim

    Bookmark   August 25, 2013 at 12:43PM
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Kippy(SoCal zone 10. Sunset Zone 24)

Jeri,

Have you set up such a system that is not directly attached to your actual water lines? Due to the old hose bibs, probable leaky pipes, etc, we turn off the supply of water to the garden when we are not actively using it. So I would have to supply the mister water in a bucket or something similar (was thinking 5g buckets)

Don't ya hate it when you are busy typing a reply and a new message posts and you miss it.....

Kim

I was thinking of using some kind of larger sized "clear" plastic bin to keep the humidity up, but with holes drilled through the bottom so excess water could drain out. Would you think only hand misting with a water bottle would still work with that type of system? Was planning on a fairly dappled sun shade area so nothing cooks in the bin. I could fill the bottom with gravel and do holes on the side of the bin so the rocks stay wet to keep the humidity up but the pots say out of the water

This post was edited by Kippy-the-Hippy on Sun, Aug 25, 13 at 22:15

    Bookmark   August 25, 2013 at 12:44PM
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pat_bamaz7

Sara Ann, I'm nearing 100 roses now and most I've purchased potted from local nurseries. I've had great luck with them. There are several nurseries in the area that carry roses, and only one of them that I'm not very comfortable buying roses from. That one doesn't specialize in them...just carries some that they bring in already potted; whereas, the other nurseries plant theirs from bareroot and nurse them along for months before selling to the public. Those nurseries are owned by master gardeners who know roses and are very good about only carrying ones they feel will do well in our climate. A couple of the nurseries even grow test roses each year to see how they perform here. I prefer to see the roses in bloom before buying, so I only mail order if there is something I really want and can't find here. Really depends on the quality of the nurseries in your area, though.

Jockewing, mine is pink and gold, too...no red tones. Pics were taken on the crappy camera on my old phone...just upgraded to one with a better camera last week.

    Bookmark   August 25, 2013 at 12:04AM
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sara_ann-z6bok

Jockewing, thanks. Yes you are correct, the Exhibition name is Heart O'Gold, appreciate your input, especially your description of how you planted it. Pat, thank you very much. Sounds like you have some good sources for potted roses. The place where I purchased my Europeana doesn't specialize in roses, but the owner has told me that he has a very good source and they take very good care of them. I'm sure they are better than the big box stores. I thought back to the times when I have planted potted roses and I think maybe sometimes I waited too long to plant them in the ground. You must have some lovely roses. I saw a picture of your Outta The Blue rose on another post, really caught my eye, GORGEOUS!

    Bookmark   August 25, 2013 at 11:35AM
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