22,796 Garden Web Discussions | Roses

I don't think that first support is big enough for Golden Celebration. To keep life simple, I would probably just purchase a wire-type garden "fence" (I don't know what HD and those places actually call them)--one that was about 2.5-3 ft tall and circle it around the plant, letting it grow naturally upward in the middle.

My Munstead Wood is one year old and a bit "floppy" (though not real bad). So far, I use the single bloom supports and position them strategically under a couple of the blooms that are too top-heavy for the slender canes. Obviously I have to move them around later as different blooms start weighing down different canes. I'm hoping MW's canes will toughen up in a year or two, or, as it gets bigger, I may have to get one of those wire-type garden "fences" about 1.5 ft tall to circle around MW and keep those canes from totally falling over.

Since MW is a smaller rose, you can also just take a v-shaped twiglet from a fallen tree limb and insert under the top-heavy cane. Makes a great "natural" support, very inconspicuous. I often do that also.

Kate

Agree this won't work - rather a glorified peony ring, the sort you put up when the stems of a perennial are still short so they can grow through the grid. You can find a large diameter ring without the grid for about $5 at Walmart & other box store garden centers. Look for the kind that has a hook at each end of the ring itself, so the circle can be opened to place around the plant without trying to thread branches through a solid ring. The legs just hang from the ring, so you fit the ring higher than needed, slide the legs to position (splayed works well), push in & then close the hooks to complete the ring. These come with various circumference & leg lengths & perhaps you could use 2 or 3 on Munstead Wood at staggered heights, relieving any pressure from the ring against the canes by giving it supports at several points. Never tried it with roses, but they work fine with tall phlox, monarda, any plant that tends to flop open at the center. May be worth a try, since they're so inexpensive. Have tried the half-round stake-in supports you show from that company & have them in different widths & leg lengths. Find them quick props for whoopsy situations but not great for longer use. Having only 2 legs, they need to be pushed in on angle toward the plant since the branches bow them outwards. More than one becomes necessary & twist-ties to stabilize them relative to each other. Find the rings more useful, though the leg positioning can take some fiddling. Another stake slightly smaller than the legs can be helpful for making the initial soil groove the legs can then be set in firmly. Mark the stake with a piece of masking tape for the depth you want the legs to penetrate the soil so you end up with the support horizontal rather than crazy angles, same as you'd set an obelisk or arbor. Lowes & others also carry leafy or curvy 2-5' double-pronged stakes for $10-15 that might work to support MW's branches. Foldable rabbit-fencing type garden edging with ground spikes & looped tops comes in low & knee-high versions & could be fitted around MW. Have even used croquet wickets in a pinch...

I've used tomato cages, often snipping them vertically & stretching them out to form semicircles for support. Usually place them upside down - the legs sticking up & soil staples securing the ring at the bottom - with the now topside legs gathered into a finial like the terracotta balls sold for bamboo cane toppers. If they've been snipped lengthwise to fit around a plant, green zipties hold them together again & are easily cut for removal. (Also fits well in pots & looks classical. Good for vines & topiary frames, too, as well as cones planted like "living wreaths".)

For Golden Celebration, you might try a curved trellis such as the one in the link. Even two of these would be no more pricey than the support you've shown, and may actually prove useful. You've got the wall behind GC, so you could support the naturally arching canes with one of these to the front, one at either side, 2 side-by-side to form a semicircle around the front, or placed at the rear with the arms curving toward the rose. I've seen these in person - they're hefty & made well for the price. Considering one myself, imagining sliding seashells or Christmas balls over the arrow points to make them less formal in this country garden, though they are classically traditional as they are. You could also do a modified espalier using the suction-cup anchors sold for vines on the wall with monofilament line, making the support invisible.

Dura-Trel makes some good-looking & reasonably priced trellises in gray & mocha as well as white, some broad & tall enough to cover a wall, with a 6-footer running around $50. The wall one can be found for $120 & free ship, and might be used to run up the wall behind your rose & continue past the wall to form a "railing" to that end of your porch. Tall trellises can be hard to find - Plow & Hearth carries a couple metal ones reasonably priced. Many use the livestock panels available at farm supply stores. A length of modular garden fence set in front of the bed might keep GC in bounds for a while. There are so many options out there.

Left the GC here to grow unbound the first couple of years while considering how to provide support. Unlike yours, that one's in the center of a wide bed, so in no danger of sprawling to snag passersby. Wound up assembling a copper pipe obelisk 2' square by 9' high around the rose, the kind with ogee curves at the top held by a ball finial. GC's corraled within the structure rather than tied in & arches gracefully along the cross-bars as a tall fountain. Copper obelisks can be pricey to buy, but they're simple to construct with pipe fittings & a pipe cutter with no soldering required. Found mine some years back as a garden store display irresistibly discounted & stored it knocked-down till it, finally, came to mind when pondering how to support Golden Celebration after perusing many possibilities. Seems your GC's in no immediate need, so maybe keep exploring the possibilites...

This post was edited by vasue on Mon, May 19, 14 at 12:51

Oooh! Or more frugally, the leftover iris leaves.

For mulch, buy a bag from HD or Wal-Mart (or such place) of pine-bark mulch--or other type if you want a different color. Just costs a couple dollars.

Kate

Ooooh!!! That is electric!!!
Looks like a great shrub with lots of flowers. I can see why you keep it!
Carol

Thank you ladies. Seil - I think that would be a good name for it too! Carol - it is an unusual rose, sometimes the blooms are quite lovely, in the fall especially.



I just bought this little 'greenhouse' of peat pelletts. I am going to use it to start some cuttings. It's small, so I will have to cut the canes shorter than usual. But worth a shot.

Thanks a lot Buford, for the detailed information. I followed your instruction and let's see what will happen.
There is an interesting finding today, when I was transferring one of my bare root roses, I found one cane which is in "check" shape got new root on the lowest part. Because I buried the rose too deep, the lowest part of the cane and bud joint were buried inside the soil. I guess if I separate the cane from the plant, I will get a new rose. This cane is a new sprout that started after I planted the whole thing in a pot. Therefore, I thought a new way to propagate rose. Burying part of a sprout into the soil without cutting it off and let it root underneath. This way, there is no need for covers and peat pellets.

If you like damask scent arizsun, you might like to try something I bought at Target, Botanic's Rosewater Toning Spritz, 100% Organic. It was developed with plant extracts from Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. It smells heavenly!!! Very strong damask fragrance. Ingredients: Aqua (water), Alcohol denat, Glycerin, Rosa damascena flower oil, Citronellol.

I grow both Rose de Rescht and Pickering Four Seasons. Both have wonderful scent, but both are also smallish plants and don't climb. RdR has the better rebloom.

I have a magnificent damask with a powerful fragrance called York and Lancaster which I've grown for over 20 years in partial shade (bottom of plant in full shade, top of plant in full sun most of the day). It is now up on my roof but would only be able to climb with lots of support (wants to be floppy). However there is zero rebloom.

You might want to try Portland from Glendora. Wonderful, strong scent. This rose has fairly good rebloom and is quite willing to climb. If you want a headstart in getting it to a large size, I would suggest buying from Antique Rose Emporium in Texas. The shipping can be expensive but that is because they send out such big plants. One of my favorite vendors.

Comtesse O'Gorman is a hybrid perpetual that has a heavy, dreamy scent and climbing tendencies. I don't think it is in commerce at present unfortunately. It is red though, not pink.

Cl. Chrysler Imperial is another worth considering, if you can find it. It's a climbing hybrid tea with powerful fragrance and a liking for heat. Very good rebloom. I had 2 that perished in a wildfire in 2003. I have been unable to find replacements. :(

Another suggestion that you can look up on HelpMeFind is Yolande d'Aragon (I've seen it grow much taller than HMF indicates),

Or check out the damask/portland roses at Greenmantle Nursery and give Marissa a call there. She is very knowledgeable.

Melissa

Here is a link that might be useful: Damask and Portland Roses at Greenmantle

I forgot one, Stanwell Perpetual, I guess because I think of it more of as a spinosissima since it has the tiny leaves typical of the class. Flowers are all damask in looks and perfume to me. HMF says it is only moderately fragrant. Not in my garden. Here, the fragrance is quite strong. I have 2 plants of it. One is over 5 feet tall at around 3 years old and showing signs now of getting much bigger. This one is from Heirloom Roses in Oregon and has been blooming almost continuously since January. Blooms are a pale pink that fades to white in intense sun. I have another one of the same age from Rogue Valley Roses. This one is only maybe one foot tall and rarely blooms. A dud.

Melissa

Here is a link that might be useful: Stanwell Perpetual on HMF

The thing you have to remember is that a lot of the things we've traditionally been taught for decades about growing roses are changing as new technology and research has developed. Like a lot of aspects of our lives times change with new knowledge. So much scientific research has been done now on exactly how the plants grow and react to pathogens that many of the old ways are now being updated. But some people are quicker to accept new things than others so the old methods persist in being put out there. It doesn't mean that one way is all wrong or another is all right. It just means there is more than one way to do any of it. Like I said before, experiment and do what works best for you and your roses.

Water on the foliage will cause blackspot to germinate if it stays wet for around 8 hours. So don't wet the foliage in the evenings.

Hosing down the foliage does help control mildew, but mildew is not usually a problem in the East except for maritime New England. I don't do it because it wastes water.

Well, good :) That makes me feel better.

I am glad you sprayed the fungicide..I have never had it hurt my roses

I would leave the trellis where it is (doesn't look too close to me) and I'd put a small stake (like a bamboo one, you can find them at Home Depot,etc) next to the rose, leaning to the trellis. Then I'd tie the cane on that and train it towards the trellis. When it finally reaches the trellis, you can take out the stake.

I have trellis' everywhere in my yard and do this kind of thing all the time.

Good luck!

Thanks :)

Three years. I think that might just be what to expect from any rose.
Three years for 5g pots to spread their roots and amaze. Three years for bareroots to build their roots and amaze. Three years for bands to build their roots and frame work to amaze.

The hard part is waiting those three years.

My Tropicanas have looked especially lovely this spring.

My Tropicana took a hard hit this winter, but is bouncing back. Only problem I have is powdery mildew every so often.

TG has been in my garden for over 6 years, it rarely bloom, I spent so much $$$ fertilizing to encourage bloom but instead it grow so large and healthy but never give an abundant flowers. Anyone please advice.

My Teasing Georgia took a hit this winter with some damage but is filling out again. In most years she grows 6' tall and about 5' wide here, self-supporting. I would say that now she's mature she repeat blooms very well.

Marylou, if yours is growing large but not blooming, maybe you are overfeeding it too much nitrogen? I give mine some Rosetone in early spring which is a balanced organic fertilizer, but that's the only fertilizing I usually do. And it repeat blooms wells after a good first flush.