22,795 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
IMHO, the pictures don't look quite right for Harison's Yellow. The flower form is off, the leaves are off, and the plant habit is off. Every time I see a picture of Persian Yellow, the plant strikes me as very elegant. It's more like a double form of Father Hugo than any relation of Harison's Yellow. I've just never been able to drum up any affection for that one.
Roses have an immune system that fights PNRSV (the most common virus of the viruses that exhibit mosaic symptoms in roses). This immune system is temperature dependent. It works well at high temperatures. Since you are in Mexico, you should not have much of a problem with it if it is PNRSV.
https://sites.google.com/site/temperatureandrosemosaicvirus/
I've bought 3 container roses from Low's during the past few years and they have been very good additions to my garden. Two own root (Pink Knock Out and Dark Desire) that are very vigorous. Growing and blooming like crazy. One grafted (Charisma) that has done VERY well and survived 2 nasty winters. I'd be picky and REALLY look any container grown roses over before I plop down any $$$$.
I've planted a few container roses when I can find something I like at our limited supply rose dealers. I prefer own root due to our cold, long winters but the container roses I have bought have done well so far. One nice thing with container roses is that if they're in bloom you know that you are indeed getting the correct rose. I have gotten some mistagged mail order roses. I bought 'Bolero' rose from HD last year. It wintered over no problem and is super healthy and blooming well. 'Julia Child' suffered severe winter dieback but is doing extremely well despite her needing to be cut literally to the crown. I also was lucky enough to find Easy Elegance own root 'Yellow Submarine' and 'Centennial'. Both are very good repeat bloomers and super healthy. 'Centennial' went through our brutal winter pretty much untouched and has the most exquisite pale apricot to white blooms. 'Yellow Submarine' is new this year but I would purchase her again if I could find a second one!! The blooms are such a pretty shade of yellow and she has no black spot!
Blushing Lucy doesn't rebloom in my zone 6a garden, it's a once bloomer here, but it repeats in other areas (warmer zones).......Cl Fairy looks like Blushing Lucy, it can grow tall and it's cane hardy here. I am growing a Cl Fairy with Blushing Lucy this summer, so I can have some repeat blooms in that spot. Jeanne LaJoie is very short in my garden, I planted 6 of them to climb on trees, they stay 3-4' tall in my garden. New Dawn can grow tall, it's light pink, but she is the queen of throns. Zephirine Drouhin is cane hardy and pretty much thronless, it's a once bloomer I heard, but after seeing everyone's pretty ZD photos, I purchased 3 of them! This year I also added Harlekin (zone 4), Viking Queen (zone 5), Compassion (zone 4), Victorian Memory (zone 2), Jasmina (zone 5), Laguna (zone 5) to my garden. They're all pink climbers. This is all I know from my own gardens, hope this helps. :-)
Karen - yes, I ordered from the sale in May, but I've had poor quality bareroots from J&P even when ordering at the normal times. You're right that we'll probably need to call as they send but don't respond to emails.
I did have one of my Breck's roses fail this fall from canker and they haven't responded to my email either. Word came back that their server isn't accepting emails any more?? Guess that'll be another call too.
Cynthia
I only have two roses left that I have bought over the years from Wayside/Park/J&P and both happen to be Austins: Heritage and Pat Austin. Heritage just blooms and blooms. Pat has always been a weak plant and I debate getting rid of her, but when she blooms, I love them
Thank you for sharing your experience, Patty. It is very helpful to rose newbies like me to be able to identify and be vigilant of this terrible disease. I have not enough experience to know what growths are considered as unusual and abnormal. Your pics really help me see these strange growths.
Ah, sucks.
You know what, my peach drift rose in my backyard may have RRD! Two years ago all of a sudden it put out a crazy, witches broom, hyper-thorny growth. Back then I hadn't even heard of RRD - so I just cut off that growth and trashed it. NO symptoms since then, blooming very nicely and growing well. Maybe that was herbicide damage instead.
Hi, I am pretty new to this, and could use some advices.
I inherited 2 rose bushes from the previous owner of a home I recently bought. I have a few questions regarding these bushes.
1.Both of their bud unions are about 1 ft above ground. This quite different from what I learned from browsing the Internet. Is this something I should be worried about?
2.Their root stock are not vertical. In fact one has a roughly 45 degree angle from being vertical. There is a flimsy wooden stick planted right next to the root stock, which I believe are being used as a support. What might be the reasons that they are in such condition? Is this something I should be worried about?
3.After reading this thread, I now think that one of the bushes has Dr. Huey. There is a pretty thick, old cane that comes out of the root of the 'Judy Garland' (this is the name according to the tag that is still hanging on the root stock.) right at the ground level. It bloomed pink flowers, however they don't look very healthy. I was marveling at the fact that the same bush could have multicolored blooms!
But was not quite sure how to prune the Huey portion of the bush. Their leaves look weak and diseased too. The cane looks old and may have been around for a few years. Is there any harm in keeping the cane, I do enjoy seeing more than one color of blooms on the same bush. If it can be kept, how should I prune them? Their leaves and stems look very thin and are quite different from the Judy Garland's.
4.The skins on root stocks appear to be cracking, they look bark-like. I used to see something similar on trees. Is this something I need to worry about?
Thanks for your help!
Better Homes and Gardens makes a nice, general book about roses that helps you identify diseases and pests and provides solutions. They also have a nice little guide suggesting roses for specific areas of the country and a good little section on growth habit etc as well as a brief history. You can find it here: http://www.amazon.com/Better-Homes-Gardens-Rose-Gardening/dp/0470878452
There's a good new rose book called Roses Without Chemicals that goes into the more modern roses that are bred to resist disease and perform well on their own roots. I found it enjoyable, although it mostly reads like a Kordes catalog (almost all the roses he recommends are from Kordes). I do wish he would have spread out to other breeders a bit. But overall its a good book with good suggestions especially for beginners or people who want to make the switch to an organic garden.
I also recently got a new book called Foolproof Guide to Growing Roses.
I enjoyed this one, even though it was also very general. But they had a great guide on growth habit and a neat little section on how to make rose supports that I thought was really great. They even had a few pages on how to make a support to grow a rose to the side of a house and how to attach it to the wall. As of yet I've never seen a rose book address this kind of information. I thought it was neat.
Another thing I really liked about this book is that it showed microscopic photos of what black spot spores looked like as well as nematodes (both good and bad) and all sorts of other neat things. Overall out of all the rose books I've read, this one was my favorite.
David Austin makes some beautiful books about roses if you like to just have books with pretty rose pictures in them (I do). They can be pricey but you can get them used on Amazon for fraction of the price. (Sometimes even for $.01 and you just pay $3.99 shipping.)
There is also a good OGR book called Antique Roses For The South if you live in the south or like Old Garden Roses.
The Botanica books on roses (Encyclopedias) are popular, but they are somewhat useless as they just list varieties and a short (tiny actually) description of each rose. You can get much better info on any rose in question by looking online. And alot of the roses they feature are no longer in the market, so they are pretty much impossible to find.
But my best advice is to be sure you don't go ordering old rose books. These old books are outdated in both their information and in the roses they recommend. Some of the old roses that were popular in the 60s and 70s (even 80's) can't even be found now (although some of the really good ones are still around). And pesticide use was not as well regulated back then so they sometimes recommend things that are down-right dangerous.
I bought an old rose book from the 70's about growing roses in Florida (not a lot of books available on rose gardening in Fl) and they recommended spraying Nemagone in the ground. Well guess what? Nemagone was pulled from the shelves in the early 80's because it was found to cause men to become sterile. A ton of young men working banana fields in the tropics lost their ability to have children because of it. That's what I mean by dangerous.
Stick to books from the millennium and you should be able to find some great roses and some good advice.
And don't forget to ask us here at Garden Web, we love to share our rose knowledge too.
Put an umbrella over her. That's what I do to mine when I move them. It worked wonders. I just bought a cheap light weight umbrella and popped it right on top (a hand held umbrella) and it perked right up. Also keep it well watered and poke some holes around the base when you water it, to be sure it soaks into the ground right around the roots. And LOTS of mulch, it keeps the roots cool and does wonders.
In the PNW, zone 7, I would think it would be fine to move it now. It should still have at least a couple of months to settle into it's new spot before winter hits.
First water it very well the day before the move. The day of the move dig the new hole as big as possible first and test it for drainage and amend it however you usually do. If it is a very large bush you may want to trim it back by about 1/3 before trying to move it. This will also help the reduced root ball to be able to supply adequate food and water to the plant once it's moved. If you are moving it a long distance get a wheel barrow or tarp to make it easier to move. When you dig it out try to get a good sized root ball and keep it intact as much as possible. Place it in the wheel barrow or on the tarp and move it to the new site. Set it in the new hole and back fill about half way and water it in. Finish back filling and then water it again. It may show some signs of wilt from transplant shock but that should go away quickly. Keep it well watered for at least the first week and do not fertilize it until you start to see new top growth.
Thanku Seil!!! That helps.