21,401 Garden Web Discussions | Roses

Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
susan4952(5)

Are u using HMF? Strong myrrh fragrance.

    Bookmark   August 12, 2013 at 2:30PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
minflick(9b/7, Boulder Creek, CA)

I do check on HMF, but there's no substitute for a real life nose fest!

Melinda

    Bookmark   August 13, 2013 at 12:04AM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
andreark

Thanks a bunch for the encouragement. Carding Mill and the 3 miniatures are all doing beautifully. They have even made some new babies (sorry, I'm mushy) since I put them into their new homes.

Since you already have experience with potted roses, can you tell me how much work it is to repot them when they need it? The miniatures don't worry me, but the Carding Mill is in a container that took 3 bags of E.B. Stone Edna's Best. (1.5 cu feet apiece). That's a lot of dirt to wrestle with. I understand that it should be done about every 3 or 4 years.

Do you do this?

thanks again,

andrea

    Bookmark   August 12, 2013 at 7:32PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
racin_rose

Well...to be honest I haven't had mine 3-4 years...but as big as your pot is, I would treat it like a rose in the ground. I would prune it, shovel it along the dripline to a manageable root ball, and re-pot. If you think about transplanting a mature plant that's been in the ground, we are able to really cut through the roots and after a break the plant bounces right back.

Your container seems huge, I wouldn't really anticipate having to re-pot it. The only issue of concern to me is that over the course of several years the soil will degrade to the point where you'd almost be growing the rose hydroponically because you'd have to provide everything for it.

I've read up on this quite a bit, and it seems to me that most people only observe that container growing limits the overall size of the plant, and binding of the roots can be a concern after several years in a pot. I have noticed that miniatures outgrow their containers very quickly!

I'm putting up a greenhouse and doing a long-term study on growing roses in "smart pots" or "grow bags" instead of non-porous containers. In theory, they should never require re-potting because of the air pruning effect of these containers. We shall see...

I'm hoping some experts can give you better insight into this.

    Bookmark   August 12, 2013 at 10:11PM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
hoovb zone 9 sunset 23

Water a lot. Fire that guy.

    Bookmark   August 12, 2013 at 2:42PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
seil zone 6b MI

That's a shame! I agree, fire him! But don't worry because your rose will grow back. If he left you 3 feet of cane it should start to branch out again from there. There's no way to know how long it may take for that variety to return to it's former stature. It will depend a lot on the vigor of your rose but it will be beautiful once again I'm sure.

    Bookmark   August 12, 2013 at 3:17PM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
pat_bamaz7

I grow Rock & Roll, but we have mild winters. Here, mine is narrow at the base and widening to about 4 to 5 feet at top. No bare knees...foliage to the ground. Beautiful blooms in the spring and fall. Here, mine will keep blooming all summer, but blooms are much smaller and they lose most of their splashes and stripes when it heats up...become mostly red with faint pink variegation. Very fragrant even in the heat, though. Blooms may keep their red and white coloring in the summer for you in your cooler zone.

Spring blooms:

And a summer one:

    Bookmark   August 11, 2013 at 9:41PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
nippstress - zone 5 Nebraska

Rock & Roll is reliably hardy, and mostly tip hardy for me in zone 5a. It's next to Stars 'n' Stripes Forever, so it's sometimes hard to tell where one bush starts and the other stops, but both are big bushes for me - at least 5' tall and a good 4' wide if I let them. You'll like it - it's a great striped rose for cold zones.

Let me know if All American Magic overwinters for you. It wimped out totally for me once in the winter, and I'm pondering trying it again. Where did you get yours?

Cynthia

    Bookmark   August 12, 2013 at 2:06PM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
SnailLover(5a MI)

Wow, I had no idea. I always thought you were supposed to cut roses way back in the fall. No wonder I've never had good luck with them. I'm glad I asked first. Thanks!

    Bookmark   August 11, 2013 at 11:34AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
jim1961 Zone 6a Central Pa.

SnailLover

If your rose canes get winterkilled to or near ground level then you have no choice but to prune low to ground even in the Spring time..

But rose bushes that have winter hardy canes with not much dieback you have a choice on how much you want to prune off.

Yes, do hard pruning in the Spring...

    Bookmark   August 12, 2013 at 1:49PM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
mad_gallica(zone 5 - eastern New York)

Next spring, cut about a third of the oldest canes down to the ground.

It's standard deciduous shrub renewal pruning - nothing fancy. However, if it is in a lot of shade, the new growth will do the same thing.

    Bookmark   August 12, 2013 at 11:23AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
floridarosez9

And send the clippings to me. LOL

    Bookmark   August 12, 2013 at 1:15PM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
bgaviator(7)

yes, they have bloomed for me this year. I staked up some of the longer canes with these thing bamboo stakes I have....I just didn't like how they were flopping over from the weight. When would be a good time to prune the long canes back? Should I do it in the fall, or in the spring? They are still currently blooming. Thanks.

    Bookmark   August 12, 2013 at 6:53AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
michaelg(7a NC Mts)

Now or in the spring, not in the fall.

    Bookmark   August 12, 2013 at 11:31AM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
michaelg(7a NC Mts)

Next year, order for delivery in May. Actually, in your zone, I would consider postponing delivery until May. But if not, I would plant it immediately so it begins to harden up.

What size plant is this? Band, 1-gal., etc.

    Bookmark   August 12, 2013 at 11:12AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
v1rt

I am not sure what the size is but I remember the website says it's 18 inches.

    Bookmark   August 12, 2013 at 11:24AM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
bluegirl_gw

I can easily sympathize with someone being driven CRAZY by cicada song. Fortunately, I tune it out.

Now, when toads start singing all night....BREEEEEEEEEEEEE!
Arg, I've been known to go out with a flashlight & catch them in a bucket to dump them in another part of the yard. Several times a night *sigh*. Hasn't been a problem in a long time--no water. Think it would now be a welcome sound to hear them celebrating a nice rain. Funny what sounds are annoying & what sounds you just tune out.

    Bookmark   August 9, 2013 at 9:31PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
altorama(5/6 MA)

Last time they came out, the cicada wasps did as well. They are interesting-they go into a cicada nest, captures one and takes it to her 'burrow'. Then she lays an egg on it and it lives off the cicada. Last time they were here we observed this, it was cool!

    Bookmark   August 12, 2013 at 1:28AM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
frances_in_nj(z6 NJ)

Well, I think you'll love New Dawn! I DO have a suggestion for a hardy, mostly thorn-less climber, however, and that is Felix Le Clerc. Its a new-ish one for me (I have only had it one year) so I can't tell you too much, but it IS mostly thornless and blooms a lot! Supposedly hardy to zone 3. My one hesitation is I'm not sure it'll get big enough for your pergola. Still - worth a look!

Good luck!

Best,

Frances

    Bookmark   August 11, 2013 at 7:16PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
v1rt

Thanks for the input :) Appreciate it a lot!

    Bookmark   August 11, 2013 at 7:47PM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
nippstress - zone 5 Nebraska

Thanks for posting this update! Those of us in cold zones are always looking for roses that can be beautiful as well as hardy under these conditions. I find that The McCartney rose is coming into its own in my yard in its 3rd year, and Elina has always been good for me. I've had Headliner in my wish list for some time and you're convincing me to bump it up in the plans!

Cynthia

    Bookmark   August 11, 2013 at 2:16PM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
Desertgarden-Las Vegas, Z8b/9a @ 2800 ft

Mark_roeder,

How exciting! It looks gorgeous. I am with Seil on this one, although I have never taken a cutting and tried to root anything, that rose would be my impetus to start.

Lynn

    Bookmark   August 11, 2013 at 11:32AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
seil zone 6b MI

It takes a little practice. I don't think anyone who does it would say they have 100% success with it. I had terrible luck with it myself in the beginning and even now only about half my cuttings will take but I keep at it and try to improve that with every batch. Do give it a try for this lovely sport. Go over to the propagation forum and do a search. You'll find tons of different ways to do it. Experiment with it until you find the one that works best for you.

I use clear plastic drinking cups with holes in the bottom for drainage. I fill them with seed starter soil instead of potting soil because it's lighter. For soft wood cuttings a cane that has just bloomed is perfect. Cut a length of cane about 12 inches long. Remove the spent bloom. You can remover the leaves or leave them on. I've done it both ways and it didn't seem to make a difference. At the bottom of the piece take some scissors and gently scrape off the green outer skin to reveal the white layer just beneath it and dip it into some type of rooting hormone. I've used both powdered and liquid. Take a pencil and make a hole in the seed starter soil for the cane to go into with out rubbing off the hormone. Put the cane down in the hole and gently pat the soil back into place around it. You don't want there to be any air pockets so I usually tap the cup a couple of times on the table when I'm done to settle it all in. Water it and keep it evenly moist but not soggy wet. A lot of people use misters but I can't afford one so I just keep a vigilant eye on them to make sure they remain moist. If they dry out completely they're usually toast. I put mine outside in the morning sunlight with my seedlings but you can also put them in dappled sun or under a light if that works better for you. And wait...that's the hard part, lol. In maybe 4 to 6 to 8 weeks you should see some roots around the cup. That's why I like the clear cups, you can see when it's got roots. I'll wait until the cup is pretty full of roots showing and then move them up into a one gallon pot. Don't think that if they start to leaf out that they're rooting either. Sometimes they'll use what stored energy there is in the cane to leaf out but they still don't have any roots so just let them be. I hope that helps and you get that beauty rooted!

    Bookmark   August 11, 2013 at 1:55PM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
Desertgarden-Las Vegas, Z8b/9a @ 2800 ft

barb_roselover_in,

Chlorosis can be a manifestation of an iron deficiency, which could be associated with water alkalinity and thus a high pH if not corrected by some measure. Chlorosis can also be caused by damaged roots, improper drainage, but some kind of deficiency is a common cause. You are dealing with a bands you just received, so it could be difficult to determine what the cause is. Maybe another rose grower will chime in with a better way to actually diagnose the problem. If you can take a photo and post it, that is often helpful for some in determining issues with roses too.

Lynn

    Bookmark   August 11, 2013 at 1:26AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
michaelg(7a NC Mts)

Literally, chlorosis just means yellowing. The most common type is iron deficiency, which shows green veins against a pale green or yellowish green background on the new growth.

Your cuttings are stressed. I wouldn't be putting stuff on them. Just keep moist and give good light but not hot sun.

    Bookmark   August 11, 2013 at 12:34PM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
roseblush1(8a/Sunset 7)

I am loving the cool ... low 90s. I can get work done for more than three hours a day. It's amazing how many projects appear when there is more time to do things. When it's hot, I just do what needs to be done to get the rose through the heat. Now, I can actually finish some of the projects I started.

This is the first summer I've had a chance to work more than three hours a day before it was too hot to be outside.

Oh, yeah, the blooms are lasting longer.

Smiles,
Lyn

    Bookmark   August 10, 2013 at 10:49AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
jim1961 Zone 6a Central Pa.

It got into the mid 50's last night and should reach into the mid 70's today...

    Bookmark   August 11, 2013 at 9:24AM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
michaelg(7a NC Mts)

I think these roses are infested with spider mites, which would cause the fine yellowish stippling on top and the dirty appearance of the undersides. Look at the undersides through a magnifier, preferably 6x, and I think you will see wispy webs, tiny amber colored crablike critters, and perhaps their yellowish eggs. They suck plant juices and will eventually cause the leaves to curl and die.

The Two-Spotted Mite is everywhere, but population explosions can occur a) when roses are grown indoors or sheltered from rain b) when insecticides have reduced their natural enemies c) in hot dry weather. Outbreaks are best treated with water--a hard spray directed to the undersides every day or two. Have you used an insecticide?

I am not sure what caused the brown mottling. but it is probably not a fungus disease. The dead brown patches that I think I see in the first fuzzy picture seem different and could be burn from too much fertilizer.

    Bookmark   August 10, 2013 at 4:01PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
susan4952(5)

I am guilty of, or a victim of , everything mentioned.

    Bookmark   August 11, 2013 at 1:26AM
Sign Up to comment
© 2015 Houzz Inc. Houzz® The new way to design your home™