22,796 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
I am constantly amazed by folks who believe in the Rights of Private Property EXCEPT the rights of their adjacent neighbors!
bboy, surely, you should not have to put up with your neighbor's trespass. Might you, for example, be able to make a financial contribution to the fence, combined with plantings up to the 1 foot boundary? If the behavior you describe is typical of the neighbor's general attitude, they cannot have very much public support unless they are related to some locally important family. I would think you could contact the relevant local authorities and find out exactly what your rights and obligations are. Maybe show photos and videos which clearly show the 1' area and the trespass beyond that line. I wonder if erecting some sort of inexpensive marking, even survey poles, along the length of the 1 ft. line might deter the worst of the neighbor's trespass? And I believe we do all have the right to tape and photograph any activity on our own property.
Me, I would probably install a 1' wide walkway along the length of the phantom fence, combined with plantings up to the edge of the walkway and a sign proclaiming in English and Spanish that my yard is organically maintained. If you, for example, are growing roses, you do need to be able to prune and trim from every side, hence the need for the walkway.
I like Nastarana's idea of the walk. Makes it obvious what side is theirs and just what they need to maintain up too.
I am redoing an area and have a similar issue, I am going to leave that 12" and then level my side with a low stack block wall. I have a section that is wider than the 12" behind one of our fenced gardens. I can maintain my side no problem and have gates.
I do have a question for those in the know, if your neighbor has left themselves NO access other than trespassing across all of your property to maintain their fence, do you have to allow or should they purchase their own ladder? The bad neighbors will have their fence fall any old time, surprised it is still standing to be honest, and we have our own chainlink fence on our side. But the over watering towntown group has left themselves no way to access except thru our side I have lots of things planted on our side of the line, most by 2 or more feet so there is work room, just no way to reach it. That fence will probably be the first to fall because of the winds even though it is in better shape. (but only by a little bit)
And is there anything that can be done if they leave the old concrete around where their fence was before? They built one guessing on the wrong line and rebuilt a new one more on their side but I have trip hazards all over on our side of the fence but I think mostly on their side of the property line.
We had a very rough winter so I was surprise that only 1 died, Pink Promise. But I planted her very late, like October and didn't cover her. The rest (Chicago Peace, Love & Peace, Angel Face, Princess Margaret, and Port Sunlight) I covered them with leaves and they are now coming back strong.
So when a rose plant "died" from our bouts of polar vortex this winter, but is coming back with fresh new growth from the roots, is it like starting all over with a new, young rose? I mean in terms of I how big and/or strong it will get this year? Many of my roses were bands in the summer of 2011.
It is difficult to say anything without knowing the conditions you have for growing roses where you are in India. It is hard enough in the US where conditions vary so much. If you give a complete description of the growing conditions you have beginning with zone, weather and soil and how you have cared for the rose and whether or not you spray and with what then someone might have an idea.
I should have mentioned environment condition also:
At present my roses remains in sun from 11am-4pm and tempretaure is around 39-40 degrees celsius (ya i know temp remain quite high in my area during summer)
My roses are not in pots and I try to water them thrice in a week or when ever the surface of the soil appears to be dry. I also spray water on the leaves as summers are there.
I have applied only a small amount of granular fertilizer recently that contains (humic acid 39%,ascorbic acid 20%, Amino Acids 9%,Thiamine 2%,Alpha-tocopherol 1% ,basicaly a root stimulant)
Besides all the other good comments & advice:
Dang, this year is awful! I'm nw of SA. Besides all of the freeze damage & drought, this season's flush got fried on the canes with all the hot dry winds. I had a couple of weeks of gorgeous blooms, then the temps soared into the 90s before the canes had time to harden up.
Oh, well, I snagged 30 bags of oak leaves, mulched the heck out of everything & have fingers crossed for rain the next couple of days.
Really, things have been rough for plants all over the past couple of years & most especially so for young plants. I'm gonna assume things can only improve, with watering & mulch.
WRT to Caramella: not sure what you consider "continuous". I get 3 - 4 flushes a year. I make sure to give it an all over haircut after each bloom cycle. As the blooms have a lot of petals, it does not rebloom as fast as Blushing knock Out. I suppose that some creative pruning could provide the appearance of continuous bloom, but I haven't made the attempt to try.
Roses Unlimited sells potted roses as we know.
The concern here is only about bare roots. Although I've never ordered freshly dug bare root roses, there are some specialty nurseries that dig and ship bare root plants - usually shrubs and trees, on demand. I would NOT advise extended soaking for them.
The extended soaking discussed above applies specifically to roses that were dug in the fall and kept in cold storage for spring shipment which is the industry norm.
Freshly dug or potted roses, I (personally) would schedule for delivery near the last perennial frost date.
An exception to all of this would be roses that were greenhouse grown - like Roses Unlimited. These I would schedule nearer the last ANNUAL frost date.
This post was edited by sandandsun on Tue, Mar 25, 14 at 15:01
So I ordered a Day Breaker rose from spring hill nurseries and received it today but bare root! I'm new at gardening and just have no clue what to do with it. So I guess from all the reading I've done I'll soak it to the graft for 24 hrs then is it ready to be planted outside I'm the ground? We're already warm here in Dallas with the temps getting in the 90s by Friday so not sure if it's ok to plant or not and if so is there anything special I need to do to it? I've read a few of you guys mentioning mounding; what is that?
Thanks and sorry for the ignorance
Elce
I've been having a huge problem with it, too :( It has to be the winter for me. It's hitting some roses that were doing beautifully, and it has hit just too many for it to be anything but the stupid polar vortex. The worst are ones that were in the bitter winds (protected, but not up top).
A couple got cankers suddenly way down at the base, but many looked great until their canes just suddenly shriveled. It might have to do with the cold/warm cycles that happened here, but one way or another it was the winter that did it, I think. So frustrating!
Many are coming back really great from a drastic pruning, though. My Eden had to be cut completely off (a big ole Eden!), but she's growing strongly from the roots. I found that little ants had made a home with eggs in her old, huge main cane base (the old woody part), lol! So maybe she needed a rejuvenation pruning ;)
Good luck, y'all (and for me)!!
Rosa rugosa survives there. There are a couple of native species roses--Rosa nutkana, Rosa acicularis. Most casual gardeners grow HTs as annuals--either intentionally or unintentionally.
My sister lives there. What you can grow there that is the envy of gardeners most everywhere is Meconopsis, the blue poppy. Herbaceous peonies can also be spectacular, if you can protect them from the moose.
Anchorage is similar in climate, check this page:
Here is a link that might be useful: Master Gardeners of Anchorage on Rose Growing
Hmm, it's a bit hard to say. Quadra is on the north side of my house and Ramblin Red is on the east, so neither get a ton of direct sun in either location since both are shaded by the house for parts of the day. I'm going to guess that Quadra gets 8 hours of direct sun with some filtered sun and Ramblin Red gets maybe 6 hours of direct sun with filtered sun and shade alternating at the ends of the day. I've never checked it that closely, but plenty of other roses on the same side with Ramblin Red bloom fairly constantly, so it isn't entirely a sun issue.
Cynthia
Carol - It's probably easier just to show you a picture of it by itself. This picture was taken last year. It is so windy lately it is difficult to get any decent pictures. The shade of pink is very pretty, I think. It is a good rose for me, has a great fragrance, it has about two dozen buds on it now. I am very pleased with it. I certainly hope your weather improves soon.
I'm going through the same thing with my HT. The cluster of cages may be affecting air flow. I didn't have the problem last year with rust and PM. I had fewer roses and fewer cages. I sprayed, fertilized and increased my watering. My old garden roses on the slope are clean.
My opinion now is roses are easy, HT roses not so easy.
Deer, fungus, insects.