22,153 Garden Web Discussions | Roses

I hate the skunks!!!!
Palms are fairly easy to dig up, surprisingly, but the wrong palm in the wrong place can do some serious damage.
Off to work on the old garage....that used to have a palm right in front and now has a cracked wall and other foundation/wall damages from the palm tree (different kind of palm)


So sorry you are having trouble. I'm near Disneyland and have one on Dr. Huey and another own root. The own root one is the prettiest plant by far. But..........it took forever to get large. It stayed small with a few slender canes and I feared it would never be a good plant. Then the large shoots from the base sprang up. It gets plenty of water and sun. I cut it as little as possible until it flops over and gets in the way. Repeat is fast and the fall flush is very nice. Nicer than spring I think.
You are giving it the best food and so I think what you might try is a good mulch layer and plenty of water through the summer. Don't let it dry out in the LA heat. Shade the roots with flagstone or something over the mulch. Be sure to replace the soil if another rose was there.
I had some roses not do well because I think they were weak copies. Look around for a big sturdy one with good fat canes and you might try San Gabriel nursery. They will help you have success.

Beth: If you've had your PJP2 since it came out, you got it from J&P and it is NOT grafted. From the get-go, J&P offered PJP only as one of its "New Generation" (own-root) roses, so it's not surprising that your plant has been such a lackluster performer. Trash the one you have, try it on Dr Huey, and I think you'll have a more positive experience.
As a grafted plant, PJP was first available on Fortuniana rootstock , via an agreement J&P made with a Florida grower that subsequently went out of business. Grafted PJP plants are now available on Dr Huey from various sources -- Regan, S&W. Witherspoon . . .


Dragon's Blood is actually more red than brown, so plan accordingly. Also, it blooms in great big flushes where no one will notice what is "next" to it when it's blooming. And then it takes a long sleep. So I don't think it matters what you put in the bed with it. Just put something -- anything -- that blooms when Dragon's Blood is in "rest" mode.

As is often the case, plans changed when the bed getting a face lift was actually dug out. We ended up putting a Correa Pulchella out front, with various salvias, lavender and Sydonie in the intervening space. A pink, blue, purple, white, and yellow (Tagetes Lemonii) scheme up front with cream and white accents was a bit more harmonious it seemed.
I think the likelihood that the mystery rose from Rogue Valley she has is pink is high enough that it will probably end up in the pink bed which made it easy to put Sydonie out front. It also seemed most logical to simply situate Dragon's Blood near Hot Cocoa and Cinco de Mayo. Aggressively self-sowing Borage is the only thing stopping that as of now, but I'll be fixing that tomorrow.
Jay


"Sticky notes" are placed by moderators to pass on whatever information they wish provided. They remain there until thought to no longer be necessary. It all depends upon how important they feel it is to be there. Once it's served its intended purpose, someone will likely remove it. I just ignore them once I've read them. Kim



bebba, that's one of the reasons I don't use bark mulch any more. Whatever I have left is under the leaves that I use now. The idea is for the roses and companion plants to be close enough to each other that you don't really notice what's underneath. When there are blooms the eye naturally gravitates upward anyway. The leaves and other things, like rose clippings when I prune which I also leave under the roses, except for the thick branches, all take on the same grayish-beige tones which just sort of blend in. I don't like a "manicured" look to my garden beds so it all works quite well.
Ingrid

It depends on the type of rose. A band of an HT is going to be good in 2-3 years. An OGR or Tea will take longer.
If you can, I would move the roses now while they are dormant. As long as your ground isn't frozen, you can replant them. If you wait until they start coming out of dormancy, they might lag a bit more for the first flush. Also, you will want to trim them back to about the size of the root ball so they will thrive in their new spot. Since these roses already have a large root system, I usually just make the hole big enough to fit the existing root ball.

I'd wait until March, possibly April. You do want to wait until chances of the ground being frozen more than a couple of inches are gone. Newly transplanted plants and frozen ground around their roots are not a good combination. It will also give you a chance to see how much winterkill is happening, and possibly readjust your expectations accordingly.
Bands of hardy roses usually mature in about 3 to 5 years. These are the ones that seem to be making progress. Roses that aren't hardy enough will never mature from a band.


hi Karen, interesting that your posting should come up now. I live in a condo and on my porch I have 3 pots next to each other. The first one is Julia, next to that is the climber , dublin Bay, on the other side of that is
Honey Perfume. I hope as they continue to grow against a white porch railing that the red dublin bay will grow along the top to the railing and the 2 yellow roses on either side will look good against the red climber. good luck, Judith

Yep, that definitely is a spider mite problem.
When I moved into my new place, I kept my Miniature rose home cause I was way too busy with unpacking, settling and all and within that time span, Spider mites ravaged my plant. When I put it outside, under the rain, it came back :)
Thou, spraying the plant with water regularly (sometimes, daily) will help keep the mites off. I grew a Patio rose in my home and got it to bloom, all the while avoiding spider mite infestations by misting the plant with water.

Spider mites. They make me crazy. To break the reproductive cycle, stiff stream of water as suggested above and try to get the underside of leaves as well. See if you can see very subtle webbing along the leaf underside. Sometimes I use a miticide....but I try not to.








I'm asking for recommendations for a shrub rose to plant in a new sun bed in my Chicago backyard. I've stayed away from roses after some failures but gardener's hope springs eternal so I'm trying again, after having good luck last year with two Austin roses, Munstead Wood and Wisley.
I'm looking for a 4-5 foot repeat blooming fragrant rose, pink or red. Our worst issue here is powdery mildew and we have a lesser problem with black spot.
The protected fenced-in yard probably qualifies as zone 6 but we just had temps down to -15 F, the lowest in many years.
I'd appreciate the benefit of your experience.
Just so you know, Pickering Nurseries in Ontario has Munstead Wood, Quadra, and The Dark Lady. I've also been considering Bakarole, which is a dark red hybrid tea, but I haven't grown it before so can't comment further. Pickering sells grafted roses, not own root.
My sympathies for your loss. I think your living memorial is a lovely gesture, and will hopefully provide you some comfort as well as good memories of your friend.
Here is a link that might be useful: Pickering