22,795 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
Hmm, it's a bit hard to say. Quadra is on the north side of my house and Ramblin Red is on the east, so neither get a ton of direct sun in either location since both are shaded by the house for parts of the day. I'm going to guess that Quadra gets 8 hours of direct sun with some filtered sun and Ramblin Red gets maybe 6 hours of direct sun with filtered sun and shade alternating at the ends of the day. I've never checked it that closely, but plenty of other roses on the same side with Ramblin Red bloom fairly constantly, so it isn't entirely a sun issue.
Cynthia
Carol - It's probably easier just to show you a picture of it by itself. This picture was taken last year. It is so windy lately it is difficult to get any decent pictures. The shade of pink is very pretty, I think. It is a good rose for me, has a great fragrance, it has about two dozen buds on it now. I am very pleased with it. I certainly hope your weather improves soon.
Thanks Kate! I know about FM, I actually ordered from heirloom so I have a bunch of roses of all types, but most of them Austins with the exception of Frederick and Chrysler Imperial. I read of someone on the forum that said WS2000 and Golden Celebration can take and actually prefer partial shade as own roots, especially bands. But I'm afraid that will mean bad bloom/rebloom.
I don't know what to put in that area, I was hoping to put one of my roses there but it might not be ideal. 3 hours isn't enough sun.. even though it's morning sun.
hoping to get more information, and thanks for the reply Kate!
Have you thought about putting some hydrangeas in that shady area? Most love some morning sun as long as they get shade during the brutally hot part of the day (which is after 2:00 during July-Aug. in my Midwestern zone 6). Limelight is a nice macrophylla hydrangea. But I also like Annabelle--which is a different type of hydrangea and can handle a bit more sunshine than the macrophyllas. (The paniculata hydrangeas, on the other hand, can take almost full day sun.).
I'm a big fan of hydrangeas and there are lots of lovely macrophylla hydrangeas out there--some supposedly re-bloom. They all bloom for at least a month--sometimes longer--and the bush looks nice all season. They are very showy in bloom.
Kate
Yet more gorgeous gardens since I last looked - I'm just so impressed with everyone's efforts. emrogers, I really like the idea of the stone border. It finishes off that bed perfectly.
Christopher, I'm looking forward to seeing your garden this spring.
hoovb, I'm looking forwards to seeing one of the best gardens anywhere.
Ingrid
WOW!! All of the gardens here are so incredibly beautiful and inspiring. My mouth was just hanging open looking at some of these photos, so many magical looking gardens. My new little garden is fighting to establish itself, hopefully soon I will have some photos to share with you all soon. Thank you all so much for sharing your gardens!
I'm sorry Andrea, I don't know. Honestly, I don't know what the chemical is. I don't use fungicides, period. I only use pesticides when absolutely necessary and never on ornamentals. It's simply a personal choice. I react to many chemicals, many scents, many household cleaners, many detergents. I don't wear anything scented and my friends and family know not to when around me. I avoid the candle and soap aisles in stores and everything about Bed, Bath and Beyond because of the scents and the reactions too many of them generate in my body. My gardening, as with pretty much the rest of my life, is as "homeopathic" as possible.
Henry, as I previously wrote, yes, our climate and continual, chronic water stress caused by the extremes we encounter daily, I'm certain help foster the mildew and rust issues. The only times I didn't have rust and mildew somewhere in the old Newhall garden were when I ran overhead, oscillating sprinklers over large areas for several hours daily. As I wrote then, water was cheap and plentiful. Black spot is very seldom an issue except in my pot ghetto where the plants are stressed, often immature and over crowded. Those are often the causes of epidemics among people, so why not plants? Water stress whacks out the immune systems, opening the door for susceptible varieties to go overboard expressing the diseases. I have a seedling I raised last year between Cal Poly (the mini I can force to rust by drying it out) and a Basye hybrid between Laevigata and Banksiae. If I don't water the pot that seedling grows in daily, it mildews immediately. As long as I keep that soil wet, it grows with no mildew. It's the same as it was with R. Arkansana and Cal Poly with rust, only with mildew. Look for extreme water stress, fix it and see what a difference there might be. Kim
Thanks Kim.
I would like NOT to use anything also, but I have picked many leaves off this FM and it just continues to spread. With the little BS that I get, tossing leaves worked fine.
But, as Jackie just let me know, you can't touch and toss the leaves that have rust like you can the BS leaves. I just found an article about rust and 'Tebuconazole'. This chemical is only systemic and does NOT kill spores on contact.
I am going to be 'carefully' removing and discarding the rusted leaves. And I certainly hope the the one shot of Bayer will do the trick. But if not, I will have to use the dread substance again. I used it twice last year for something that I found later to NOT be BS. But I don't wan't to use it any more than absolutely necessary.
Thanks again all,
andreark
Where's there's one, more are sure to follow. My Pretty Jessica started buds long after every other rose had buds AND flowers. That may just be its habit or be a function of its relative youth (three years). Last year it had almost no flowers at all. It could be Ascot is revving up now and next year will be a wonder to behold. At least now there's hope, and in gardening that's everything.
Ingrid
In dry Nebraska, I routinely use these in all my rose plantings, mixed in the garden soil and compost that I put back into the hole. It's an absolute life saver for me, particularly with new bands. I buy the crystals bulk through WaterSorb, and I like their product and prices a lot. The crystals break down after a season or two, but frankly I want the roses in the ground to adjust to the irregular Nebraska rains in the summer anyway.
I've read some postings on the web about concerns if you use these water crystals willy-nilly throughout your garden, because of something (silcon maybe) that doesn't break down well. Judicious use to bridge the planting transition for new roses, particularly in your arid Texas climate, should be realistic and really make a difference in roses thriving in your hot summers.
Cynthia
Be careful. I love them in my hanging baskets, but in roses, I found out the hard way. They kept the moisture well on my paved patio. But when I went to clean a few pots up, in the spring, the crystals were still there, and the roses were in bad shape. THE CRYSTALS DID NOT DISAPPEAR. Possibly in your zone , they will be alright. Just not in the Great North Wet.
The light sounds adequate. Not more than that, but it should be enough.
The peat moss might be a much bigger problem. It is very hard to rewet if it dries out, and very slow to dry out when it gets wet. So it really isn't suitable for use somewhere the moisture levels aren't carefully controlled.
The other problem is the level the rose is planted at. Most roses you buy at the garden center are grafted. Most potted grafted roses are planted with the bud union a few inches above the soil level because otherwise it would take up too much valuable pot space, and there isn't any reason for it to be buried. However, it helps a lot with wintering if the bud union is buried in the garden.
I definitely agree with mad gallica about the peat moss, but I still use it, because it helps so much in our hot summers here with clay soil that becomes a tight brick very fast. What I end up doing is watering the very top of the soil lightly when it threatens to completely dry out (so that the peat there doesn't dry out and become impervious to water later). In spring with the frequent rain, I don't usually have to do that.
Deep watering is much less frequent even in summer, because the peat down below keeps the lower parts moist. Your climate may be different, but do watch (and feel) how the texture goes in your springs and then summers!
Mom was surprised at how damp the soil was in the veggie garden where I was working today. Just drip. Once the plants come up tall enough we can use hay in the veggies.
It is amazing what a thick layer of mulch can do. The big roses probably got less than a gallon of water in the heat wave and did not seem to wilt, the blooms fried but the plants look good
Rosa rugosa survives there. There are a couple of native species roses--Rosa nutkana, Rosa acicularis. Most casual gardeners grow HTs as annuals--either intentionally or unintentionally.
My sister lives there. What you can grow there that is the envy of gardeners most everywhere is Meconopsis, the blue poppy. Herbaceous peonies can also be spectacular, if you can protect them from the moose.
Anchorage is similar in climate, check this page:
Here is a link that might be useful: Master Gardeners of Anchorage on Rose Growing
Kodiak seems to be in Zone 6. I would think your friend would have fewer issues growing roses there than we have in the midwest.