22,796 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
Yet more gorgeous gardens since I last looked - I'm just so impressed with everyone's efforts. emrogers, I really like the idea of the stone border. It finishes off that bed perfectly.
Christopher, I'm looking forward to seeing your garden this spring.
hoovb, I'm looking forwards to seeing one of the best gardens anywhere.
Ingrid
WOW!! All of the gardens here are so incredibly beautiful and inspiring. My mouth was just hanging open looking at some of these photos, so many magical looking gardens. My new little garden is fighting to establish itself, hopefully soon I will have some photos to share with you all soon. Thank you all so much for sharing your gardens!
I'm sorry Andrea, I don't know. Honestly, I don't know what the chemical is. I don't use fungicides, period. I only use pesticides when absolutely necessary and never on ornamentals. It's simply a personal choice. I react to many chemicals, many scents, many household cleaners, many detergents. I don't wear anything scented and my friends and family know not to when around me. I avoid the candle and soap aisles in stores and everything about Bed, Bath and Beyond because of the scents and the reactions too many of them generate in my body. My gardening, as with pretty much the rest of my life, is as "homeopathic" as possible.
Henry, as I previously wrote, yes, our climate and continual, chronic water stress caused by the extremes we encounter daily, I'm certain help foster the mildew and rust issues. The only times I didn't have rust and mildew somewhere in the old Newhall garden were when I ran overhead, oscillating sprinklers over large areas for several hours daily. As I wrote then, water was cheap and plentiful. Black spot is very seldom an issue except in my pot ghetto where the plants are stressed, often immature and over crowded. Those are often the causes of epidemics among people, so why not plants? Water stress whacks out the immune systems, opening the door for susceptible varieties to go overboard expressing the diseases. I have a seedling I raised last year between Cal Poly (the mini I can force to rust by drying it out) and a Basye hybrid between Laevigata and Banksiae. If I don't water the pot that seedling grows in daily, it mildews immediately. As long as I keep that soil wet, it grows with no mildew. It's the same as it was with R. Arkansana and Cal Poly with rust, only with mildew. Look for extreme water stress, fix it and see what a difference there might be. Kim
Thanks Kim.
I would like NOT to use anything also, but I have picked many leaves off this FM and it just continues to spread. With the little BS that I get, tossing leaves worked fine.
But, as Jackie just let me know, you can't touch and toss the leaves that have rust like you can the BS leaves. I just found an article about rust and 'Tebuconazole'. This chemical is only systemic and does NOT kill spores on contact.
I am going to be 'carefully' removing and discarding the rusted leaves. And I certainly hope the the one shot of Bayer will do the trick. But if not, I will have to use the dread substance again. I used it twice last year for something that I found later to NOT be BS. But I don't wan't to use it any more than absolutely necessary.
Thanks again all,
andreark
Where's there's one, more are sure to follow. My Pretty Jessica started buds long after every other rose had buds AND flowers. That may just be its habit or be a function of its relative youth (three years). Last year it had almost no flowers at all. It could be Ascot is revving up now and next year will be a wonder to behold. At least now there's hope, and in gardening that's everything.
Ingrid
In dry Nebraska, I routinely use these in all my rose plantings, mixed in the garden soil and compost that I put back into the hole. It's an absolute life saver for me, particularly with new bands. I buy the crystals bulk through WaterSorb, and I like their product and prices a lot. The crystals break down after a season or two, but frankly I want the roses in the ground to adjust to the irregular Nebraska rains in the summer anyway.
I've read some postings on the web about concerns if you use these water crystals willy-nilly throughout your garden, because of something (silcon maybe) that doesn't break down well. Judicious use to bridge the planting transition for new roses, particularly in your arid Texas climate, should be realistic and really make a difference in roses thriving in your hot summers.
Cynthia
Be careful. I love them in my hanging baskets, but in roses, I found out the hard way. They kept the moisture well on my paved patio. But when I went to clean a few pots up, in the spring, the crystals were still there, and the roses were in bad shape. THE CRYSTALS DID NOT DISAPPEAR. Possibly in your zone , they will be alright. Just not in the Great North Wet.
The light sounds adequate. Not more than that, but it should be enough.
The peat moss might be a much bigger problem. It is very hard to rewet if it dries out, and very slow to dry out when it gets wet. So it really isn't suitable for use somewhere the moisture levels aren't carefully controlled.
The other problem is the level the rose is planted at. Most roses you buy at the garden center are grafted. Most potted grafted roses are planted with the bud union a few inches above the soil level because otherwise it would take up too much valuable pot space, and there isn't any reason for it to be buried. However, it helps a lot with wintering if the bud union is buried in the garden.
I definitely agree with mad gallica about the peat moss, but I still use it, because it helps so much in our hot summers here with clay soil that becomes a tight brick very fast. What I end up doing is watering the very top of the soil lightly when it threatens to completely dry out (so that the peat there doesn't dry out and become impervious to water later). In spring with the frequent rain, I don't usually have to do that.
Deep watering is much less frequent even in summer, because the peat down below keeps the lower parts moist. Your climate may be different, but do watch (and feel) how the texture goes in your springs and then summers!
Mom was surprised at how damp the soil was in the veggie garden where I was working today. Just drip. Once the plants come up tall enough we can use hay in the veggies.
It is amazing what a thick layer of mulch can do. The big roses probably got less than a gallon of water in the heat wave and did not seem to wilt, the blooms fried but the plants look good
Usually the solution to blind shoots is to cut them back some and let them grow out again. The second time around they should put on buds. If you had a bad winter or any kind of odd weather during the spring growing season it could by why it put on so much blind growth.
I'm assuming the proper name is 'Sunny Knock Out'. I'm also assuming that you bought the rose as a grafted/budded plant. What may have happened is that a sucker of the rootstock (probably 'Dr. Huey') has grown, and that is the tall cane you're seeing with no flower buds. 'Dr. Huey' blooms on old wood, and naturally grows as a small climber. Look at your rose to see if the tall cane is coming from below the graft/bud union. If so, it needs to be removed.
:-)
~Christopher
henryinct: All good ideas. My older roses are pretty maintenance free. I have nine young HT and I need to keep up with them. Today I deadheaded, weeded, fertilized, sprayed and watered and that was enough. I need to prune and remove diseased leaves. I am retiring in two months and will have the time to give them proper care. I haven't had any HT for over 25 years because of he deer. I wanted cut flowers and now I have to spend some time on them.
You're welcome! The three main diseases, black spot, rust and mildew, all basically function similarly. They help prevent any one species from becoming dominant in their habitat. All three depend upon suitable conditions to grow and susceptible tissues to infect. The best control is to eliminate the susceptible varieties (to the best of your ability) then control the suitable conditions, again, to the best of your ability. There are many you simply can not control, but making sure there is decent air circulation; sufficient sun exposure (without over or under exposure); sufficient drainage with appropriate amounts and timing of water; appropriate nutrition at the appropriate timing and in appropriate amounts are more easily controllable. That leaves making sure what you choose to grow is suitable for your climate, conditions and gardening "style", how much time, effort, energy and money you choose to provide.
I know certain classes of roses simply won't flourish in my conditions. They may limp along and they may supply the begruding flower, but they will never perform as they are meant to, no matter how much money, time or energy I spend on them, so why waste precious real estate and other resources on them?
Once you begin really studying the plants, I think you will discover many issues are easily mitigated by making sure light, drainage and water are properly applied. Other measures are there in case those first three don't do the trick, or when attempting to bend an unsuitable type to your climate and will. Kim
Thanks Kate! I know about FM, I actually ordered from heirloom so I have a bunch of roses of all types, but most of them Austins with the exception of Frederick and Chrysler Imperial. I read of someone on the forum that said WS2000 and Golden Celebration can take and actually prefer partial shade as own roots, especially bands. But I'm afraid that will mean bad bloom/rebloom.
I don't know what to put in that area, I was hoping to put one of my roses there but it might not be ideal. 3 hours isn't enough sun.. even though it's morning sun.
hoping to get more information, and thanks for the reply Kate!
Have you thought about putting some hydrangeas in that shady area? Most love some morning sun as long as they get shade during the brutally hot part of the day (which is after 2:00 during July-Aug. in my Midwestern zone 6). Limelight is a nice macrophylla hydrangea. But I also like Annabelle--which is a different type of hydrangea and can handle a bit more sunshine than the macrophyllas. (The paniculata hydrangeas, on the other hand, can take almost full day sun.).
I'm a big fan of hydrangeas and there are lots of lovely macrophylla hydrangeas out there--some supposedly re-bloom. They all bloom for at least a month--sometimes longer--and the bush looks nice all season. They are very showy in bloom.
Kate