22,153 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
I think it's great that you have blooms in December. I'm glad you found a way to beat the deer and grow roses again. Good luck with the new ones. If you ever need a good yellow, you might like Eternal Flame. It grows so tall that most of it would be higher than they could reach.
I think we have two different conversations going on here, and it gets rather confusing who is answering whom and from which conversation.
At any rate, I give up. No solution for my problem, I guess.
Kate
This post was edited by dublinbay on Mon, Dec 23, 13 at 20:21
Okay, I feel bad for you Kate. Here is the solution for you. You are currently using IE browser with Adblock Plus. To get rid of the column content to the right of this column, you will need to use another browser such as Chrome. You will need to install another program called "Adblock" without the plus. Adblock plus is older then Adblock. Marketing at its finest. The PLUS makes you all in thinking it is better. Its' original name was "SIMPLE ADBLOCK for IE"
Here is a link that might be useful: Here is the proof
Regarding Golden Celebration & water needed - I've found it needs no more nor less than other roses here in central Virginia. But we have a fairly high average yearly precipitation at 50" or so - perhaps similar to your garden? This June & July rainfall was steadier than typical, and all the roses loved it - never seen them bloom so abundantly in July before.
As far as support - agree not necessary - depends on what look & form you're after. Decided to corral mine within a structure when it began to reach far into the arms of its companions - though that was a lovely look on its own, it didn't suit the location of that bed between the front walk & porch. (I like the abundant nearly wild look, but my husband prefers a more cultvated restrainment, so we compromise in that prominent location.)
This is my report from July of this year, and you may want to read the full discussion in the link.
Planted Golden Celebration 4? years ago in the center of a garden bed that spans the front porch. Saw within a year that it wanted to grow tall & left it to its own devices to arch for two years trying to figure out how to support it vertically. Assembled a 2-foot square copper pipe obelisk around it rising 9' from ground level. It's not tied to the supports but simply confined within them, which shapes it into a pillar form with the branches finding their own way within the verticals & spilling out over the cross pieces. Like this tall narrow yet full effect, the structure it bears as a centerpiece & the room given other plants in that bed. If the obelisk were removed today, the rose would easily arch down to a width of 15' & overpower the scale of the planting & its neighbors.
Mine started with lax thin canes but has firmed up well over time so the blossoms' stems face outwards instead of nodding as they did at first. The framework supporting it allows it to arch gently & it has many flowering shoots all along the branches. Just counted 18 along 2' of cane, and many of those are budding their own clusters. I've never pruned it, just deadhead the sprays. No dieback here in central Virginia just east of the Blue Ridge Mountains & no disease despite my lazy no-spray ways. At first the blooms came mostly one to stem, but ever since has put out sprays of at least five. Repeats so rapidly, with so many clusters budding as others are blooming that I'd have to call it continuous from mid-Spring past the first frosts - anywhere from mid-April through to Christmas. Love the scent & the nuance of color. Only in temps in the high 90's does it bloom plain yelllow. In the early flush its first Spring after planting the preceding Summer, some blooms were half bright tangerine & half egg-yolk yellow, as if they had a line drawn down their centers. This rose has never ceased to delight & amaze me. May it do so for you!
Here is a link that might be useful: Golden Celebration
I thought we already did this. Oh well, here's my three faves at this moment.... (that changes from day to day)
STRANGER - florist rose Olij-Rozen BV (Netherlands)
REMEMBER ME - Anne Cocker (Scotland)
BROOKS RED - sport of SIGNATURE discovered by Warren Brooks (not really very "red")
Kim gave you great answers to your questions but I wanted to welcome you and add a few things from a rank amateur.
As Kim said, I've had some bloom in as little as six weeks. Sweet little dear was LESS than two inches tall! But then again I just culled some this year because it was their third season without a single bloom. I needed the space and non-performers aren't worth their keep.
Fragrance, like any other trait, is all just a matter of luck and how the genes decide to mix it up. I can tell you that the default code seems to be a non-fragrant single blooms of some shade of pink. You'll get a lot of those.
I'm in a cold zone and I do all my seeds in the winter inside. They spend time in my fridge in plastic bags until they germinate when I plant them up into seed starter soil. I have a pdf paper I can send you on how I do mine. If you're interested PM me with your email address. I'm no expert but I can give you some basics. I have tried winter sowing outside once but nothing came up so I have never tried it again.
p.s. If you bought those "rose seeds" from an Ebay trader in China/HongKong or whatever, it's a scam and you should probably just toss them and hope you didn't get taken for much. Most of what they send out are reportedly radish seeds. They most certainly ARE NOT what is advertised -- roses in fanciful colors, usually.
My roses do very well in the spring. :)
I leave my roses unpruned in the fall, and then just shape the bush in the spring. Because they are above the cold soil, they warm up quickly and growth is pretty quick. My roses are much nicer than HTs in the ground around here. They are at least 2 feet taller than other rose growers here. I get a lot more blooms too.
Very worthwhile.
Carol
If you can cool down that garage some that's still the best bet for wintering them over for you. At 40 degrees the roses aren't going dormant and that's why they're trying to sprout out. it's needs to be colder to convince them it's time to go to sleep. Then when you want them to start to wake up you can slowly bring the temps up and they'll start to sprout out again.
I like the new postings feature too! I wish it was higher up on the page though! And it would be nice if they listed 20 posts rather than just 8!
My mother grew roses. I'm lucky they didn't poke my eye out when I was a little kid racing around the yard.
g2g, thanks from me too! I thought maybe I was blind, or there was something wrong with my login. I had decided at work today to log out, reboot, and log back in. I'm glad I checked in first! But I wonder where the Christmas trees went? I liked those too!
LynnT
Thanks Michael! Subk, I am going to take Michael's advice and do a summerweight spray when I see the slugs. I didn't have any BS issues to speak of last year (I sure hope this year is the same) so I'm not really worried about diseases. I think if I get on top of the slugs I can likely keep them in check with hand picking/oil spraying.
I used the vigorous water spray method last year on the aphids and that worked so well...
Did you have those huge grasshoppers last year? I wonder if they came from mulch or something I brought in...Some of my polyanthas have yet to recover (they were attacked when I was gone for two weeks this summer).
Let me know what you are going to do Subk ad how it works for you.
Susan
Susan I didn't have any grasshoppers, but the rose slugs were again this year pretty devastating for me too. Hand picking is nothing short of a joke. I think I'm going to try spinosad for some control this year as it is the only possible solution I know to try.
For blackspot I WANT to spray sulfur lime/dormant oil simply on the basis that it is what Jean did and she's the only one I've heard of having great success with OGRs here. That's a good enough endorsement for me. I just haven't figured out how to do it.
I am completely confused on how/when to spray LS as well as what is the dormant oil component of it is. I don't understand the dormancy/weather/timing of it and the more searches I do on GW the more confused I get. I keep think there is some illusive hunk of information that I don't have, but I don't know the right questions to ask to find and answer.
If anyone could direct me to a primer on winter spraying that includes how to recognize the ideal timing of it here in my zone as it relates to weather and growth dormancy (and my mostly tea and tea noisette roses) I'd appreciate it!
Too true, LynnT -- big ag/big pharma seem to have moral compasses broken beyond repair. Selling products for small-scale, well-considered purposes is not profit enough; "shareholder value" isn't realized until the entire world is drenched in tons of whatever it is, with or without truly understanding consequences. Thus, limited usage with true benefit gets tarred by the harms caused by indiscriminate wide-scale use pushed beyond the limits of what's actually known.
Even "natural" products have their hazards, though. The spinosad mentioned in other posts is also lethal to honeybees and, if used for thrips, for example, needs to be applied at times when honeybees are not around for at least three hours afterwards (see the label; night-time likely best).
For a long time, some of the flea/tick manufacturers really pushed the Insect Growth Regulators (IGR) like methoprene, which is the only name that comes to mind right now. It "breaks the flea life cycle." Meaning it stops development of the egg and larva in insects that have 4 stages to the life cycle - egg, larva, pupa, adult. Guess what else has 4 stages? Butterflies! I've seen this stuff in outdoor products for lawns, even. So you never know where you're going to find harm, if one doesn't know what they are using, and how to apply safely.
That's an interesting thought. No, it never occurred to me. But if maple tree roots grow that far out, it sounds like something worth checking out. I actually have two half barrels in the back, one of which lost it's metal bands last spring. I have a hosta in it (there's a matched pair), and found some hemp rope last year to hold it together. I was working crazy hours and just didn't have time to replant into a new barrel. If I buried that, the soil should support it even when the hemp decays, I'd think. But what happens when the wood does decay? I know it'll take a long time - it's almost an inch thick, but roses live a long time too. At least, they do when it's done right. :0
But that also brings the question of the Crown Princess. Should she go in protection too? I'd think if she gets as big as predicted, her roots will need more room than even a half barrel? I had planned to add a trellis next spring, close to the house, so there's something for her to grow on.
If there are any openings in the container, the maple roots will come through them. If there aren't, the rose will drown. Containers can help a plant get established under a large, aggressive tree, but aren't really a long term solution.
Getting the right roses is an enormous step forward in being successful. However, very few people from outside of the local conditions have the foggiest idea of *what* the right roses might be. Somebody from Phoenix, for example, is going to have a drastically different take on shade tolerance.
I did send a comprehensive list to the county of my questions an concerns (I got a lot of good info on the internet regarding pipeline easements). We decided not to ask for compensation for the easement itself. The easements are calculated by length, regardless of width, so since there was an easement on the property when we bought it, we would have a tough time proving loss of value.
However, I did request that the project manager come out to the yard and stake out where the digging will take place so that I could plan to move anything I want to keep. They will be digging up my junipers (YEAH!!!!) and I will probably lose some trees and have to removed some roses (hopefully to be replanted in a few days). I put in my list a 'special consideration compensation' for mature trees that will be lost due to this construction. Hopefully that's not a problem.
Although the easement is 30 feet wide, the digging will most likely be much more narrow, but they have to allow for equipment so that's why it's so big. Hopefully their activities will be limited (I plan on being there when they do the work).
I'm making lemonade here. I get rid of the junipers, get to maybe re-arrange my roses to a better spot, and maybe buy some new ones! Plus we should have less flooding in our yard going forward.
henrobinson - as well as water, the"leaving them alone" advice above is important. That means that you have to protect them from the builders damaging them further by stacking materials on their roots, trampling around them, etc - all of which will compact the soil and might kill them. I would recommend putting some sort of temporary fence around them - at least 3 feet away from the base of the roses. You will probably have to speak sternly to the builders - this is important.
When we had our 3 story house painted, & roof repaired & some walls re-shingled, we chopped the huge climbing roses down to about 6 feet & bagged them in burlap. However, they only survived because my DH talked with the contractors, and told them that it was worth his life (he blamed me, which was fine with me) if they trampled on the beds or touched those roses, or stacked stuff around them. He was here watching them every day (being a contractor himself, he was able to speak their language and schmooze them), and every time one of them stepped onto those beds, he was right there, pleading that they had to save him from spouse-acide by me. I cooked home made cookies for them every day, and between the two of us we saved the roses. It takes more than one conversation, and constant vigilance. Oh, and honey always works better than vinegar...
Jackie
All right, I have ordered Bolero instead, and told Glamis Castle to eat cake. I never got to the point where scent was an issue, given its early demise. Scent is important to me, and I'd never heard the diaper pail issue. Thanks everybody!
I've also made the decision to move Lagerfeld and give him a chance in the back bed and to replace him with Bouquet Parfait, given that I don't think Lagerfeld is getting enough light.
Here's a picture of Perfume Tiger this morning--it made me happy.
The West Adams district would be Sunset Zone 22, so a coastal influence most (85%) of the time. Ideal for roses. Enjoy!
There are drip-kits for watering containers that you can hook up to a timer. They may or may not be helpful for your particular situation, but something to consider.